View Full Version : Water pump?? but no rattling/unusual sounds though
avinash_vun
14-04-2013, 06:35 PM
Hi guys, i have a 95 TS V6 manual done 170000Km. Recently noticed a slow coolant loss and yesterday & today noticed small-medium puddles of coolant on ground on the LHS side of the engine (just below the timing belt side) and coolant is all over the LHS sub frame too but cannot see from where exactly the coolant is leaking from. There is no coolant loss in the radiator (changed cap recently too) but only coolant loss in the overflow bottle (topping it regularly). Also checked the overflow bottle for leaks but none, all hoses seems to be fine.
I am thinking a faulty water pump. But there is NO unusual/rattling sound coming from the water pump side as mentioned in other posts. Engine is NOT overheating, everything sounds good and works fine. What could be the problem?? I think I will rule out the Engine Water Pipe as there is NO coolant leak on the gearbox side.
Any Advise please????
Also if I have to do the water pump, should I change the timing belt as well. One other thing...sounds stupid....:nuts:but how to ensure the "engine is at No. I TDC" and how hard of a job is doing a water pump?
What tools apart from the sockets drivers and screwdrivers would I need for this job? Also in the FAQs, it is mentioned to remove the LHS engine mount but the 'PDF service manual' does not mention that??
My mechanical knowledge medium to good but not great. I can do basic things like coolant, engine oil change, spark plugs/leads, TB cleaning etc. Replaced the thermostat 15 months ago.
Cheers
Avinash
MadMax
14-04-2013, 08:06 PM
Water pump can leak from the seal in the pump, and the coolant comes out of the bottom of the timing belt case. It can also leak at the "O" ring and fill up the valley with coolant.
This won't be accompanied by any noise.
Read the manual to see what is involved in doing the timing belt. Basically changing the water pump adds one step more to the belt change procedure.
Engine mount needs to be removed to take off the old belt and put in the new belt.
avinash_vun
14-04-2013, 09:40 PM
Thanks mate, just another thing, would you recommend that I check the engine water pipe and O ring first before I start on the water pump?? Actually I kind of discounted it and thought it might not be faulty??
magnaman89
15-04-2013, 07:46 AM
i would check the o ring first . when was the timing belt last done . water pump should be done at 200,000
avinash_vun
15-04-2013, 09:48 AM
Hey mate, Not sure when the timing belt was changed last. I bought the car when it had 150,000Ks on the clock. Then I got a mechanic to check the timing belt and he advised me that there was an aftermarket timing belt not a Mitsubishi one. Also I did opened the 'half moon' timing belt covers yesterday and had a look at the belt, seemed fine to me.
Also, is it common that the 'O' ring to be damaged and not the water pump????
Anyways will check the 'O' ring first then, might be a flooded valley but 'not yet' corroded pipe. fingers crossed...
Thanks magnaman.
Cheers
MadMax
15-04-2013, 11:35 AM
If the "O" ring is leaking it's probably because there is internal corrosion on the pipe. Just slamming in a new pipe and "O" ring won't work because there will be corrosion damage on the pump too.
Your best bet is to pull the pipe out, and look at the end. If it is corroded you will need a new pump too. If it is not corroded then the pump is leaking.
Pull the timing covers off, and see what is going on. Then make a list of parts for the rebuild. Reuse the timing belt if you think it has not done too many km, and is free of coolant and oil.
Good luck.
avinash_vun
15-04-2013, 12:44 PM
Hi Madmax, looks like new water pump, no matter what :(
Yea will start off with the Pipe and ring and see how I go from there.
Cheers,
dreggzy
15-04-2013, 01:59 PM
Best just to do it all in one hit mate. Replace the timing belt, replace the water pump, replace the o rings, make sure there is no corrosion, trouble free driving for years to come.
KING EGO
15-04-2013, 03:01 PM
When the bearings are shot in a water pump they will leak out of the little hole in the front to let you know its time is up.. Not sure if magna has the little hole to release water.
I would be checking everything before you pull pump out. Would be hard if it was something else minor and you spent all your cash on water pump and timing belt to still have the problem.
Madmagna
15-04-2013, 03:23 PM
LHS side of a second gen V6 is water pump, will prob find fluid on top of the oil filter as well
Often the seals will let go but the bearings are not that noisy so you will not hear anything.
Generally if the cross over pipe is leaking you will get fluid from both ends of the motor
avinash_vun
15-04-2013, 04:29 PM
Hi Madmagna,
Surprisingly, there is not even a single drop on the oil filter. The oil filter top very very dry, but the coolant is all-over the LHS sub-frame mainly (the LHS connecting member between the front & rear cross member) and also can't see any wetness in the valley or the gearbox side...So reading from all the above, i am guessing Water pump...BTW how bad can it get if I keep driving it this way (mostly within city area), Currently, before I start I'm topping up......
Also does anyone know how to ensure the "engine is at No. I TDC"????????
Cheers,
MadMax
15-04-2013, 04:56 PM
Once you have the timing cover off, there are marks on the cam cogs - line them up with the marks on the metal cover behind them, and you have TDC.
avinash_vun
15-04-2013, 06:17 PM
Thanks MadMax....
veeone
16-04-2013, 07:41 AM
Once you have the timing cover off, there are marks on the cam cogs - line them up with the marks on the metal cover behind them, and you have TDC
Also trace number 1 spark plug lead back to the distributor and confirm that the rotor inside is pointing to that plug lead on the underside of the distributor cap! Vee
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