Hi
I am thinking about replacing the headunit. I have got a facia

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTI3WDgxMg==/$T2eC16dHJFoE9nh6piyIBP5FVFfVZQ~~60_3.JPG (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-380-FACIA-KIT-fascia-dash-panel-single-double-DIN-audio-install-/260969171886?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc2f98bae)




and I am looking at this unit:

http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/erisincardvd/ES1008AUD.jpg (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Erisin-ES1008AUD-7-HD-3G-WiFi-Car-DVD-player-GPS-Digital-TV-iPod-SWC-DIY-image-/130833372844?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7646d6ac)




and also getting this connection harness:

http://www.drivesaferdirect.co.uk/shop/prodinfo/_AU/images__SOTL/img/SOTr2/ISO-SOT-070_iO_ISO_Mitsubishi_r2_b.jpg (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400371116272?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

Sorry, the questions are:

1) the unit width is 160mm, but the facial opening measures 183mm in width (173 with trimming ring provided). Looks like there will be big gaps on both sides, which probably is not only a cosmetic problem but also difficult in fastening. Does this sound reasonable? or there is some sort of trick that I don't know?

2) Is the connection harness above the correct one to use?

Thanks in advance. I'll post all photos here after the job is done :)

That fascia comes with some surrounds which will fill in the gaps just nicely.
Pictured, upper right. You'll also need the clips off your original fascia.
But the fascia doesn't quite cover the lower support on the fan Louvre assembly and looks feather cheap when fitted.
The fascia from an es model has a much nicer fit and finish.
But you can use the surround in the package, with the es console to get the best finish.

I know this cause i just went through it all. I painted my es console, but did a crap job, bought the aftermarket kit, hated the look and finish.
So i stripped my original one and repainted it.

Second, the harness looks right, but it's 15 bucks for the Aerpro app0111 of it doesn't fit.
Hope that helps.
Marty.

BTW, cheap head units are a hit and miss affair. Good luck with your venture.

Oh welcome.

Replacing your head unit with an aftermarket unit well result in the words ' comm error ' on your MFD. Where the info about your radios status would have been.

The only way around it is to wire in the radio some where else in the car.
Sucks huh..

is there some specific model you would recommend?

Thanks Marty. The unit width is 160mm the facia opening with trim ring is 173. The unit has it's own trim frame though. Not sure these will add up and end with no gaps.

As to the connection lead, I asked the seller and he replied as following

This lead is for installing a handsfree car-kit, not for replacing a radio.
We would have to order-in a Radio-Swop lead for that.
But you will need a lot of other adaptors too, so you may be best to look for a Car Audio Specialist?



That fascia comes with some surrounds which will fill in the gaps just nicely.
Pictured, upper right. You'll also need the clips off your original fascia.
But the fascia doesn't quite cover the lower support on the fan Louvre assembly and looks feather cheap when fitted.
The fascia from an es model has a much nicer fit and finish.
But you can use the surround in the package, with the es console to get the best finish.

I know this cause i just went through it all. I painted my es console, but did a crap job, bought the aftermarket kit, hated the look and finish.
So i stripped my original one and repainted it.

Second, the harness looks right, but it's 15 bucks for the Aerpro app0111 of it doesn't fit.
Hope that helps.
Marty.

Marty
There are two plugs at the back of the original unit, a big one and small one. What are the leads on the small one? What did you do with it?


BTW, cheap head units are a hit and miss affair. Good luck with your venture.

Oh welcome.

Replacing your head unit with an aftermarket unit well result in the words ' comm error ' on your MFD. Where the info about your radios status would have been.

The only way around it is to wire in the radio some where else in the car.
Sucks huh..

Depending on where you are, I'd be quite happy if we were to compare notes. I'm on the second aftermarket unit in the 380.
The current one is AVHP8450BT (http://www.pioneer.com.au/au/products/25/109/281/AVH-P8450BT/page.html)
But Qld is huge place. I'm around springwood...

If not, just yell out...

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92978

Heres a link to a wiring guide provided by TiMi

Pretty sure the smaller plug has audio control connectivity,
Not sure about the others, would be nice to sort out the Comm error tho...
Which I don't have... :) Cause I have a es...

........

Marty
I am in 8MP, so should be pretty close. I have got the unit today and a couple of questions for you:

1. It seems everywhere says you need to disconnect your battery before doing the connection. I thought it would ruin the electronic/computer system by doing that. I remember last time the RACQ guy connected a temp battery to the system before he remove and replaced the dead battery. Do I really need to disconnect the battery? Is it safe to do so?

2. Did you use the original brackets or the pair of plastic brackets came with the fascia (I know you later changed to a fascia from an older model)

3. Is steering control lead one of the leads connected to the small plug? Do you know which one?

Depending on where you are, I'd be quite happy if we were to compare notes. I'm on the second aftermarket unit in the 380.
The current one is AVHP8450BT (http://www.pioneer.com.au/au/products/25/109/281/AVH-P8450BT/page.html)
But Qld is huge place. I'm around springwood...

If not, just yell out...

1. There a lots of do's and donts about car audio, usualy I prewire a harness and iits just a plug in thing then, and I've never had an issue before. But the 380 uses a canbus comms system and an amped antenna, I'd disconnect fer sure.

2. Original Brackets will fit and the strongest.

3. Your questions about wire colours and a fix that might make it work are here
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97761

Huh, 8 Mile plains, I reckon we are off the same exchange...

spend the xtra money and buy a name branded unit "pioneer" "alpine" hell "jvc" "sony" theres quite a few.
(i) u know it will fit
(ii) easy to return and
(iii) u can buy the wiring adapters the aero range goes from "car brand to their system" "their systemt to unit" and u plug the unit into it.
Most newer systems you buy now come with a common plug type and u only need to buy the car brand > adapter. autobarn have them called aero pro.

Im in the process of completely sound deadening my 03 TJ wagon and installing 2 alpine amps type r speakers and a digital radio headunit.
If i hadent already bought everything I would have gone

Speakers either JL or Type R (type 'X' I don't like the sound and dear as hell)
JL audio ( not as bassy and apparently a little clearer )
Alpine type R sound to me better more bass and apparently some say not as clear.

Amps
Kicker all the way

Wiring
Cant really go wrong 2.5mm speaker cable copper"""" or if u wish name brand like i decided,
"stinger" are good the best I've heard are "monster" once again dear! now from an electricians point of view cables
transfer rate depend on size and quality of copper
quality of sound can only be dictated by the transfer rate as above and distortion,
to avoid distortion
(i) run your speaker cables and power cables down different sides of the car this is because when electricity passes through a cable
it produces a magnetic field which induces a current in a adjacent cable this can only happen with larger voltages 12v 24v so on wont do it. (power cables you got it).

(ii) you could buy shielded speaker cables shielded power cables wont do shit they wont be affected by the speaker cables this is a gimmick such as gold plated connections
the connection quality is based effectiveness of the connection crimp lugs and compression connections on the ring lug being one of the best types of connection you can get and yet one of the cheapest go figure.

Thanks Marty for the information.

Do you mean not to use the car's own radio antenna???

1. I have got a converting harness (from ISO to Mitsubishi), should be plug n play. The only extra connections are the two SWC wires and I think I should be able to identify them now.

2. OK I'll try the original brackets first. It may need bit trial and error process to locate the brackets so that the face of the unit is at the correct position.

3. That post is helpful, plus the diagram I found elsewhere, I am pretty confident about the steering wheel control connection now.

Thanks again.

Cheers





1. There a lots of do's and donts about car audio, usualy I prewire a harness and iits just a plug in thing then, and I've never had an issue before. But the 380 uses a canbus comms system and an amped antenna, I'd disconnect fer sure.

2. Original Brackets will fit and the strongest.

3. Your questions about wire colours and a fix that might make it work are here
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97761

Huh, 8 Mile plains, I reckon we are off the same exchange...

Too late, I have got the unit. :)

I'll give it a try and see how it goes. The branded units are not only expensive but also have less functions.

Thanks for your info.


spend the xtra money and buy a name branded unit "pioneer" "alpine" hell "jvc" "sony" theres quite a few.
(i) u know it will fit
(ii) easy to return and
(iii) u can buy the wiring adapters the aero range goes from "car brand to their system" "their systemt to unit" and u plug the unit into it.
Most newer systems you buy now come with a common plug type and u only need to buy the car brand > adapter. autobarn have them called aero pro.

Im in the process of completely sound deadening my 03 TJ wagon and installing 2 alpine amps type r speakers and a digital radio headunit.
If i hadent already bought everything I would have gone

Speakers either JL or Type R (type 'X' I don't like the sound and dear as hell)
JL audio ( not as bassy and apparently a little clearer )
Alpine type R sound to me better more bass and apparently some say not as clear.

Amps
Kicker all the way

Wiring
Cant really go wrong 2.5mm speaker cable copper"""" or if u wish name brand like i decided,
"stinger" are good the best I've heard are "monster" once again dear! now from an electricians point of view cables
transfer rate depend on size and quality of copper
quality of sound can only be dictated by the transfer rate as above and distortion,
to avoid distortion
(i) run your speaker cables and power cables down different sides of the car this is because when electricity passes through a cable
it produces a magnetic field which induces a current in a adjacent cable this can only happen with larger voltages 12v 24v so on wont do it. (power cables you got it).

(ii) you could buy shielded speaker cables shielded power cables wont do shit they wont be affected by the speaker cables this is a gimmick such as gold plated connections
the connection quality is based effectiveness of the connection crimp lugs and compression connections on the ring lug being one of the best types of connection you can get and yet one of the cheapest go figure.

Too late, I have got the unit. :)

I'll give it a try and see how it goes. The branded units are not only expensive but also have less functions.


?? Sorry to chime in a little late in the piece, but I disagree with the price issue.

If you are just looking @ RRP or what the average Car hifi shop will sell you a current name brand unit then yes, however you can pick up great deals for the better brands not just online but also as end of model life run outs etc.

We've purchased JVC's topline 7" HU Brand new, sealed in it's original box for $400 & put it into my Mum's car as her crappy eonon unit blew up. I went looking first on ebay for a new headunit and found that so many of these no name brands were being sold for in some cases more than what we bought the JVC for in the end.
This particular JVC HU retail cost is $999 BTW.

In the end it's irrelevant as you've already bought the head unit.
As for features I agree that some of these units seem to do just about everything, but the quality is always hit & miss.
I hope it all works out well for you all the same.

Thanks for your information, certainly a good tip.

I have another question yet unanswered. Do I really need to disconnect the car battery before installation? Doesn't that ruin the computer system? What do you guys normally do?


?? Sorry to chime in a little late in the piece, but I disagree with the price issue.

If you are just looking @ RRP or what the average Car hifi shop will sell you a current name brand unit then yes, however you can pick up great deals for the better brands not just online but also as end of model life run outs etc.

We've purchased JVC's topline 7" HU Brand new, sealed in it's original box for $400 & put it into my Mum's car as her crappy eonon unit blew up. I went looking first on ebay for a new headunit and found that so many of these no name brands were being sold for in some cases more than what we bought the JVC for in the end.
This particular JVC HU retail cost is $999 BTW.

In the end it's irrelevant as you've already bought the head unit.
As for features I agree that some of these units seem to do just about everything, but the quality is always hit & miss.
I hope it all works out well for you all the same.

Newbies should. It's always safer.
I never have. But I run the risk of blowing fuses.
You won't harm the car by disconnecting the battery.

Thanks for your information, certainly a good tip.

Do I really need to disconnect the car battery before installation? Doesn't that ruin the computer system?

Just disconnect the ground wire from the battery.

Speakers either JL or Type R (type 'X' I don't like the sound and dear as hell)
JL audio ( not as bassy and apparently a little clearer )
Alpine type R sound to me better more bass and apparently some say not as clear.

Amps
Kicker all the way

Wiring
Cant really go wrong 2.5mm speaker cable copper"""" or if u wish name brand like i decided,
"stinger" are good the best I've heard are "monster" once again dear! now from an electricians point of view cables
transfer rate depend on size and quality of copper
quality of sound can only be dictated by the transfer rate as above and distortion,
to avoid distortion
(i) run your speaker cables and power cables down different sides of the car this is because when electricity passes through a cable
it produces a magnetic field which induces a current in a adjacent cable this can only happen with larger voltages 12v 24v so on wont do it. (power cables you got it).

(ii) you could buy shielded speaker cables shielded power cables wont do shit they wont be affected by the speaker cables this is a gimmick such as gold plated connections
the connection quality is based effectiveness of the connection crimp lugs and compression connections on the ring lug being one of the best types of connection you can get and yet one of the cheapest go figure.

Just want to dive into this a little bit here, there are many other brands out there than JL and Alpine, of course you would know that, but I just like to bring it up because for some reason lately ive been hearing that JL Audio make the best speakers in the world, and we all know the rep for Type R speakers.

JL are good, quite good, tonality side of things I much prefer them over the Type R's, however its also very model dependent, but if type R's are still selling for $300 give me a pair of Hertz ESK165, Morel Maximo 6 or Crescendo Opus 1's over those hands down please. Type R's tend to lack detail to their midrange and treble to me, however most off the street people associate quality speakers to the output of midbass so they do alright in that department.

2.5mm are you talking about diameter because IIRC thats 10 gauge, 12 gauge it still overkill for speakers, when it comes to a car environment it still pays to be picky especially if you are squeezing wires through grommets, and what not. If you have the money but still like cheap Shok Industries do an awesome speaker wire most popular is 12 gauge but you will be fine with 14 gauge, however I personally just buy the stuff from Bunnings, its cheap and is still made quite well. You obviously dont want to get anything too small because the last thing you want is a cable heating up inside a rubber door tube.

I have worked almost the whole day today installing the unit. Things went pretty smooth, no smoke came out. I haven't tried every thing yet, but some major functions. A couple of things are not working, yet.

Radio - works well
Bluetooth - works well
GPS - seems working (I haven't driven around yet). It shows my location on the map accurately.

Digital TV - Not working. Reported "No or bad signal" and now "Service not available". I did connect the "Handbrake" wire to earth. And I set the "Bandbrake" in the basic settings page "Off" (tried "On" first).

Reverse camera - not working. I connected the video cable to the terminal marked "CAM-IN". I tried to connect the camera to a separate LCD display and it showed the image with no problem. But with the unit, nothing happens when I put the gear to Reverse (the video signal is on).

These are the main functions I was after. I have to make them work. Could any body shed some light on this please.


PS. How do I upload photos?

Thanks for your information, certainly a good tip.

I have another question yet unanswered. Do I really need to disconnect the car battery before installation? Doesn't that ruin the computer system? What do you guys normally do?

Sorry to chime in late. As a rule I always disconnect the battery (negative terminal & wrap it up in a dry towel) prior to doing any electrical work on my car. Prevention is always better than cure I say ;-) & yes I did this when I did my stereo install.

I don't really care that the transmission has to go through the learning procedure, which all 3rd gen magna/veradas do once battery is reconnected. It's a quicky 5 min procedure anyway.

I don't know exactly but somehow I got the feeling that loosing power would mess up something :)

I was once watching the RACQ guy replacing my battery and clearly he connected a smaller temporary battery to keep the system powered before he removed the dead battery.


Sorry to chime in late. As a rule I always disconnect the battery (negative terminal & wrap it up in a dry towel) prior to doing any electrical work on my car. Prevention is always better than cure I say ;-) & yes I did this when I did my stereo install.

I don't really care that the transmission has to go through the learning procedure, which all 3rd gen magna/veradas do once battery is reconnected. It's a quicky 5 min procedure anyway.

BTW
The TV is working now. The format is MPEG-2 (something new I just learnt), not MPEG-4. So it only receives some stations like the SBS stations, but not others.

The reverse cam issue is also theoretically resolved and I'll do it this weekend. I am going to connect a three way switch so that I can put it either to auto (controlled by reverse light) or manual (force it to show the cam).

Basically, connecting another battery like the RAC guy did was just so that a car's ecu doesn't reset. this is not really needed on a magna. like i said before, it just resets the transmission's module so that its fuzzy logic just has to relearn from the next 100 throttle inputs. Check elsewhere in the forum as there is a specific transmission learning procedure. only takes a few minutes to do, but it's not essential, just expediates the process for the transmission.

On a side note, the RACQ guy certainly didn't connect up a smaller battery when changing over mine. I'd say your RACQ guy was doing this as a general precaution.