Gday guys,

Got an issue with my TF Magna. Im not sure where to start.

I checked my radiator yesterday and noticed the level was down. I topped it up and checked the overflow. And My overflow bottle has got lots of coolant in it above the full marker.

I took it for a short drive and removed the cap and saw lots of very very fine bubbles and almost like froth. I replaced the cap as it was suggested that it might not be holding pressure. I replaced that and it still does it.

The car isnt down on power, the coolant isnt oily and the oil isnt milky.

Ive attached a pic below of the top of the radiator after removing the cap.

Is it possible my coolant is too old? What could it be?
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x118/rushy_m/20130415_201230.jpg

Cheers
Matt

Get a monoxide test

Get a monoxide test

Had some tests done today. Mechanic has confirmed its the head gasket, but said maybe just a slight hairline crack. he said it took about 20 minutes to get the indication where as normally it is instant with cars that are blown.

He did recommend using CarGo Seal Up (copper metallic additive) and said to see how that goes.

I did think this was an unusual issue as the gaskets were pressed metal??

Any advice Mal?

Read the cargo packet or web site first. Check if it is OK for aluminium alloy as copper & aluminium react.

Mechanic has confirmed its the head gasket, but said maybe just a slight hairline crack. he said it took about 20 minutes to get the indication where as normally it is instant with cars that are blown.
I did think this was an unusual issue as the gaskets were pressed metal??


When the mechanic said "hairline crack" he meant the cylinder head, not the gasket. Crack opens up slowly as the engine warms up. Then exhaust gas from combustion enters and pressurises the cooling system.

When people talk about the "head gasket has gone" it's rarely the gasket itself, rather the surfaces it is meant to seal.
Head needs to come off and get pressure tested.

Rush I had a pretty large warped head issue and that stuff stopped almost all of my leak, it's amazing stuff and lasts, in some cases I researched, tens to hundreds of thousands of km's. It may seem too good to be true but it's pretty cool stuff, even tested and used by the US military in tanks. It's also shiploads cheaper than a new engine.

If you feel uncomfortable afterwards do like I did, traded it in on a newer model, haha.

New motor time I think, unless you're game to remove the heads.

Any patch up will be just that, not a permanent solution.

When the mechanic said "hairline crack" he meant the cylinder head, not the gasket. Crack opens up slowly as the engine warms up. Then exhaust gas from combustion enters and pressurises the cooling system.

When people talk about the "head gasket has gone" it's rarely the gasket itself, rather the surfaces it is meant to seal.
Head needs to come off and get pressure tested.

Yes thats what he said! Sorry i have little clue about this and i miss understood the mechanic.


Rush I had a pretty large warped head issue and that stuff stopped almost all of my leak, it's amazing stuff and lasts, in some cases I researched, tens to hundreds of thousands of km's. It may seem too good to be true but it's pretty cool stuff, even tested and used by the US military in tanks. It's also shiploads cheaper than a new engine.

If you feel uncomfortable afterwards do like I did, traded it in on a newer model, haha.

Well time will tell. He did say just keep a bottle flushed through it every 20k and you should be fine.


New motor time I think, unless you're game to remove the heads.

Any patch up will be just that, not a permanent solution.
Yeh i considered that, but i have little mechanical know how wth motor swaps etc. Would be an expensive process to go down that path. Car is worth very little anyway, so if it continues to cause issues, car will be FS!

While you can try stuff like that be very careful as often these things will tend to block a radiator up as well. If you can get the granulated Inox brand that often works in these situations and works well however as above is a temp fix

Even taking off heads yourself is going to cost more than the motor change given that head work is not cheap given to be done properly is labour intensive, also if you do use some form of stop leak throw the heads away as when they go to crack test them nothing will show given that the stop leak is still there sealing any cracks.

Were there any symptoms prior to this such as over heating or anything? Is rare for these just to blow so a cause would be good to know if poss so as to better determine why this has happened.

While you can try stuff like that be very careful as often these things will tend to block a radiator up as well. If you can get the granulated Inox brand that often works in these situations and works well however as above is a temp fix

Even taking off heads yourself is going to cost more than the motor change given that head work is not cheap given to be done properly is labour intensive, also if you do use some form of stop leak throw the heads away as when they go to crack test them nothing will show given that the stop leak is still there sealing any cracks.

Were there any symptoms prior to this such as over heating or anything? Is rare for these just to blow so a cause would be good to know if poss so as to better determine why this has happened.

No warning at all. I was skeptical about it being the head, until i showed dad the pic above and he said thats your head gone. I got a mechanics opinion as sugges and he confirmed that.

Car has never overheated (in my time of owning it) and was not doing anything weird! Was running perfect.

Although, when I purchased the car is 2011, first thing I had done was the major service, timing belt etc. The guy said mechanically the car seems good but desperatly needs an oil change as it seems quite thick and glugy. I did that and agreed with his advice as it was.

Im not wondering if they could have added something like chemi weld before? And that temp fix has just let go?

It's somewhat likely that this issue has been around for a while and the temp fix has started to let go. Chemi-weld and Inox are good treatments to get you by while you get a new motor, but I honestly would be pulling that engine out right away and sourcing a replacement.

I would never recommend use of chemiweld in a Magna, if someone does resort to the use of Chemiweld be prepared to then replace heater core, all hoses and radiator as well as chemiweld causes havok on these parts

Us old school guys are very familiar with water in the oil, or oil in the water through head corrosion, or bubbles in the radiator indicating a cracked head, as it used to be more common than it is today. Engine alloys and anti corrosive coolants have come a long way!
I would add the stop leak stuff after changing the coolant. Check the label that it is compatible with alloy heads - and not worry about replenishing it on a regular basis until the problem comes back or the coolant needs changing again. Then just drive the car and hope for the best. Keep an eye on it now that you know what the problem is and what the signs are.

It's somewhat likely that this issue has been around for a while and the temp fix has started to let go. Chemi-weld and Inox are good treatments to get you by while you get a new motor, but I honestly would be pulling that engine out right away and sourcing a replacement.


I would never recommend use of chemiweld in a Magna, if someone does resort to the use of Chemiweld be prepared to then replace heater core, all hoses and radiator as well as chemiweld causes havok on these parts

Im not planning on using chemi weld. Plan is to sell the car in the forseeable future.

Yes i can get a 130xxxkm gtv motor for very very cheap, but i cannot fit it, and several places ive asked have said its a $800-$1000 job to have the swap done.

That's assuming the GTV motor is in perfect condition, which may not be true. lol

Removing the heads and getting them pressure tested and rewelding the cracked one is an option, but you are still looking at over $1K even if you do all the spanner work yourself.

At the end of the day Matt ,its your money ,

you have enough mates and gear around here to help you do an engine swap at your place ..

there are enough of us with the needed spanner knowledge ,an engine crane...

you have contact at MitiBits...

At the end of the day Matt ,its your money ,

you have enough mates and gear around here to help you do an engine swap at your place ..

there are enough of us with the needed spanner knowledge ,an engine crane...

you have contact at MitiBits...

That's the best bet. get some mates on board, fill the esky with beers and make a day of it. Engines aren't that expensive from a wrecker.

If you were in NSW I would lend a hand.

That's the best bet. get some mates on board, fill the esky with beers and make a day of it. Engines aren't that expensive from a wrecker.

If you were in NSW I would lend a hand.

Yeh thats exactly right rob.

I doubt if ill have the car for too much longer. I want an isuzu dmax, perfect for what I need :)