anyone know where one could acquire some rings to suit some 16cm Sony 4ways http://www.sony.com.au/product/xs-gtx1642 to fit in the stock hole?

should one just man up and acquire some 3mm MDF and make my own? only need like 2 x 150mm x 160mm

Just renamed this thread to keep any and all questions in the one thread.. easier for me then creating new threads for all silly questions I might ask

The TF does not use a plastic ring to mount the speaker, its actually a large rectangle shape with a circle section that protrudes and you mount the speaker to that.

Firstly is the issue you are having that the speaker basket is a little to large to fit in the factory mount? If so there there are few dodgey ways around it, as nothing aftermarket actually exists. There are aftermarket 16mm MDF rings but putting that ontop of the factory mount will make it protrude too far, IIRC from my fiddling you can fit a 22mm Baffle there but then you run into some obstacles.

1) You can probably shave a little bit out of the factory mount, assuming theres only a little bit stopping it.
2) You can make your own MDF ring, use a good adhesive like Sikaflex pro, or even Bostik Caulk seal it on top of the factory baffle, clamp it till it sets then screw you speaker to that.

Or you can do it the right way, trace the factory plastic mount, cut it onto 16mm MDF (This should be thick enough to not hit the back side of the door trim, but give you plenty of clearance from the window glass.), paint it to seal it from weathering, use the factory screw holes to mount it to the door skin, then apply some sealant around the outside. A good speaker install is an air tight one.

I no longer use speaker in my doors but VV That VV is what I did when I did mine, here is a pic of my door, I will find you many better ones but you might be able to get the idea from here. Dont mind that raised square section in mine, these are really deep speakers yours are not so 12-16mm MDF will be fine. Note: My doors are no longer this ugly, and they sounded better than they looked.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_3799.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_3799.jpg.html)

Ok so heres a bit more for you, Disclaimer these are not my pictures there are from http://fhrxstudios.com.au/photogallery_1st_2013.asp the shop that does these is FHRX Studios in NSW This is the right way to seal a speaker to the door, the idea is deadening the door so you no longer get vibrations or resonance, sealing the holes in the door so you make a nice solid enclosure for the speaker and then ontop of that you need to have an air tight seal for the speaker. Now regardless of whether you have used deadening or not, and whether you have sealed your service holes or not, getting a study air tight baffle/mount for the speaker is vital.

Now you see here its not exactly circle how the speaker is flush with the mount and then a sealant is used around the edges to seal it to the door, and each time to factory screw holes into the door are used.
http://fhrxstudios.com.au/images/images_1st_2013_83.jpg
http://fhrxstudios.com.au/images/images_3rd_2012_227.jpg
http://fhrxstudios.com.au/images/images_3rd_2012_131.jpg

not going to that extreme... but cheers for the detailed info

You can opt for some deadening 8-10 inches around the speaker to kill any reflecting cancelation. And try out the mdf baffle. Is well discussed n your speakers will sound much better.
It's a bit more effort. But it should sound like you spent twice as much on the speakers. It would probably take most people much longer to earn that difference in cash.

turns out I have some 6mm MDF (excess from the mounting of my Rola Frame) laying around so I will use that.. just take my time in all the measuring and cutting

Excellent choice Pugs, ask peas where he's at, he almost changes speakers every time he changes the oil, and he's passionate about audio, just the guy to have on your side. Couple of PM's or phone call.
And don't forget to look for the DIY sticky in the audio thread about baffles, sure to help you some what.

Honestly bud, if you ever need a hand with anything pop over to www.mobileelectronics.com.au theres quite a few of us SA guys, we all keep in touch, have meets and have comps and theres plenty of audio related material to go around, if you want to branch out at all. I understand alot of people just want to put the cheapest speakers in and leave it at that and forget about the audio and thats fine.

would love to Put Dynamat in but yeah not this time... definitely for my work van I think .. and wen I reconvert the wagon back to normal..

ok still haven't gotten around to fitting the fronts yet... however I am kind of stuck on how to get the hole into the MDF for the speaker basket to go into it.. does one trace around the supplied template then drill a pilot hole and then slowly and carefully use a Jigsaw to cut the hole out ? then one drills holes for the screws to secure the lot onto the stock holes?

If they give you a template then yes it should have a cut out smaller not much smaller than the diameter of the whole speaker, cutting this out should give the speaker basket clearence, start the hole with a drill and then finish it with the jigsaw, if your not too trusty with the jigsaw once you have your guide take it slow as the blade will try to bend and skew your cut, and cut smaller then the template if need be and sand the rest down with 36/40 grit sand paper till the speaker just drops in. Unless you have a router then measure the radius till you get to where the basket meets the flange, use a jig and router away.

If they give you a template then yes it should have a cut out smaller not much smaller than the diameter of the whole speaker, cutting this out should give the speaker basket clearence, start the hole with a drill and then finish it with the jigsaw, if your not too trusty with the jigsaw once you have your guide take it slow as the blade will try to bend and skew your cut, and cut smaller then the template if need be and sand the rest down with 36/40 grit sand paper till the speaker just drops in. Unless you have a router then measure the radius till you get to where the basket meets the flange, use a jig and router away.

Cheers pretty much what I expected...

New Baffles

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/pugs_sa-19/Van%20build/Magna%20Mod/SpeakerBaffels_zps694af2ef.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/pugs_sa-19/media/Van%20build/Magna%20Mod/SpeakerBaffels_zps694af2ef.jpg.html)

Back in Place
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/pugs_sa-19/Van%20build/Magna%20Mod/Onthecar_zps5da5d9ac.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/pugs_sa-19/media/Van%20build/Magna%20Mod/Onthecar_zps5da5d9ac.jpg.html)

All Done
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/pugs_sa-19/Van%20build/Magna%20Mod/BacktoNormal_zps84557f91.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/pugs_sa-19/media/Van%20build/Magna%20Mod/BacktoNormal_zps84557f91.jpg.html)

Excellent choice Pugs, ask peas where he's at, he almost changes speakers every time he changes the oil, and he's passionate about audio, just the guy to have on your side. Couple of PM's or phone call.
And don't forget to look for the DIY sticky in the audio thread about baffles, sure to help you some what.

Oh how did I miss this, haha thanks Shoot.

New Baffles
Back in Place
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/pugs_sa-19/Van%20build/Magna%20Mod/Onthecar_zps5da5d9ac.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/pugs_sa-19/media/Van%20build/Magna%20Mod/Onthecar_zps5da5d9ac.jpg.html)


Sorry mate but that is not what I meant, I meant remove the whole white section and transfer the whole thing onto 12-16mm MDF. Sure your idea will work but it Kind of defeats the purpose since your still relying on the plastic panel to support your mdf. With that said good job for having a crack, thats what its all about.

well I still could do that.. only have just have the doors on there... I did mange to the doors back on only needing to rotate the internal Guide to ensure the covers fit on

It would be very beneficial to do it, hell I have had to redo it at least 4/5 times now so dont get down on doing it again however I doubt you will you seem to have a good attitude. You can see my different coloured sealants around the baffle and the deadening keeps changing.

Now firstly, what internal guide did you have to rotate to get the trims back on?? You are talking about the door trims, not something else? If you had difficulty getting the trims back on it would be because of where you have the MDF it might be pushing against the backside of the trim.

Also I found better pics of my baffles from when I had speakers in the doors.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_3768.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_3768.jpg.html)
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_3766.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_3766.jpg.html)
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_3667.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_3667.jpg.html)
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_3800.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_3800.jpg.html)
The raised square around the speaker just gave my 3 Inch Deep Midbass' enough room to clear the window class and not hit the trim. You will not need that though.

the speaker guide that is on the back side of the door trims.. I can post a photo up tomorrow, just got it done as I was over the whole driving around with out door trims look

Oh I think I know that piece, the thing black plastic? Yea I ditched mine, my speakers with insane Xmax would've hit them so I removed them and altered the posts for screwing the grille back in.

yeah the thin black thing that holds the stock grille in place hmm tempting.. to remove that.. not anywhere near st marys at all are you?? :dancin:

yeah the thin black thing that holds the stock grille in place hmm tempting.. to remove that.. not anywhere near st marys at all are you?? :dancin:

Kind of but not really im down at Christie Downs and out injured at the moment, so I cant even work on my own car.

you should really remove that flimsy plastic frame, and cut a one piece ring to cover all that area.
sounds heaps better, as it grabs the chassis much stronger than plastic.

i used the plastic as a template, put it on mdf and draw outer line, as well as inner mounting hole.
used holes on it to draw the holes, cut the shape out,

some areas require a bit of thinning or cutting, you will notice these once you put the mdf panel on the door, some screw heads will keep it from fitting properly.

takes about 40 mins to make the first one.. once you make one, its dead easy to make the second one using the first one as template.

you dont have to remove that black plastic piece on the front grill if you use 12-16mm panel or similar, peaandham probably had to do it, coz he has his mdf panel double thick (probably needed the mount depth)

ah cheers that makes a lot of sense.. and when I have some time ZI will give it a go.. in the mean time the 6mm is holding up and they sound ok.. need some dynamat tho....

ah cheers that makes a lot of sense.. and when I have some time ZI will give it a go.. in the mean time the 6mm is holding up and they sound ok.. need some dynamat tho....

i have a couple pics from the first time i did this, but i couldnt upload it .. my image host is acting up.
if you like, shoot me your email and i can send them to you

i am not a fan of dynamat.. i dont really believe in paying hundreds of bucks for rubber sheets.
if you check the mobileelectronics forums, there is a guide there about sound deadening.
you basically use ducttape and thin mdf panels cut to shape to fill up the openings.
i use earthwool for deadening in my car. i have planned to build some vinyl toasted sheets for the doors but i still couldnt find the time to do it.
i will cut sheets of earthwool, maybe split in half to make thinner, and toast & rough stitch them in vinyl layers for waterproofing, and to stop potential fluffing due to air movement.

if you want to spend the coin and if you are an enthusiast, then dynamat is the way to go..
also for your mount panels, keep in mind that you will need to clear coat or paint them for waterproofing.