I have a 2000 Magna TH wagon with 240,000 k's on the clock.. Whilst driving, usually at slow speeds but not always, i lose power. I lose everything power steering etc. I have spent almost 2,500 bucks trying to fix the problem but to no avail. I have had a new distributor, had the fuel checked, fuel pump, replaced battery, cam shaft checked, had the leads checked.... both by auto elec's and mechanics. I am at my wits end with it. Any suggestions??

Real issue is getting the car to miss behave while the mechanic actually has the car

sorry and its kinda not on topic and apologise first to Mal for saying this but burn the friggen thing and buy something newer :) :) stop chasing the problem but you have made a better start asking here then what you have paying $$$ for the others to try to work it out. If you need any TH parts sent to you cheaply then please ask as i have a TH sports sitting in the driveway pissing me off

does the engine stall when you loose power steering?

does the engine stall when you loose power steering?

Has to max as when engine is running pump is spinning

Issue is that if mech can't get issue to happen there is no hope of a fix, let's face it one persons description will be totally different to another's. I see it all the time when ppl here state motor will not turn over when they mean will crank but not fire

it played up once whilst at the auto elec and they still werent able to fix the problem.... i think i may take madmagna's advice ant light it on fire

it played up once whilst at the auto elec and they still werent able to fix the problem.... i think i may take madmagna's advice ant light it on fire
that was not mels advice . contact mel he may able to help you

it played up once whilst at the auto elec and they still werent able to fix the problem.... i think i may take madmagna's advice ant light it on fire

You need to describe the problem better. The engine completely dies while you are driving. Is that correct? What happens then? Does it start itself again while its still rolling? (If its a manual). Or do you have to sit and crank it over til it starts? Does it happen when its hot or when its cold? The more you can describe, the better your chance of finding an answer.

ISC that has died will do that. Idle drops too low when the foot is off the accelerator and it stalls.
Need more details though.

You need to describe the problem better. The engine completely dies while you are driving. Is that correct? What happens then? Does it start itself again while its still rolling? (If its a manual). Or do you have to sit and crank it over til it starts? Does it happen when its hot or when its cold? The more you can describe, the better your chance of finding an answer.

The car will loss all power whilst driving. I than stop and put it in park and it starts again and off i go. It usually happens when hot but not always can also be cold. Not a manual. Have had ISC checked also.

ISC that has died will do that. Idle drops too low when the foot is off the accelerator and it stalls.
Need more details though.

Have had isc checked, cars stalls when foot is on the accelerator

So engine shuts down and the only way to get going again is to crank the motor. Your explanation is still so vague I would have better chance in winning lotto.

Is the car hard to start once it has stalled
Does this happen say while cruising at 60
Is it only as you are about to come to a stop or you are slowing or just random
Any dash lights come on

So engine shuts down and the only way to get going again is to crank the motor. Your explanation is still so vague I would have better chance in winning lotto.

Is the car hard to start once it has stalled
Does this happen say while cruising at 60
Is it only as you are about to come to a stop or you are slowing or just random
Any dash lights come on

It has stalled at speeds ranging from 0 to 90 km/h. Once has stalled, starts again straight away. Happens randomly slowing down, speeding up. However generally at slow speeds possibly when slowing down but again not always. No dash lights come on..

Any coolant on the ecu?

Checked CAS connection, distributor plug, and others for corrosion?

I'd still be checking the ECU for error codes, even though the car doesn't throw a CEL.

Is it happening all the time or does it just happen occasionally.

Whats the shortest distance you've travelled from cold before its happened?

Whats the longest distance you travelled before it happened?

Might be a simple as a worn igniton switch. Quite a common problem in high mileage cars when previous owners have had too many keys and heavy things attached to the keyring. The constant movement of the keys in a moving car wears the key and also the switch at the rear with the contacts on. Check yours out. vee

Id like to say ive ran across this but i havent have owned several magnas erm?
1 tj 02 auto sedan
2 tf 97 auto wagon
3 TL auto 2004 sedan
4 TJ vrx (mybrothers) 2003 auto sedan
5 KH rada 1999 sedan
6 TE altera auto sedan (sort of experienced those problems when the trans was on its way out)
7 TJ ralliart magna 2003 sedan current
8 KH rada 2000 sedan current
9 TJ wagon 2003 purchased today

What i think it would most likely be and probably the easiet option goto a wreckers get a new "thinker" and try swapping out yours
I reckon its most likely computer related before doing this go get yourself a can of lexite "electrical cleaner non flamable < good shit
unplug all your connections one by one giving them a spray of lexite followed by a spray of air from a air compressor. because it occasional
and doesnt seem to matter speed or temp its good variables on your behalf.

I would have asked you to tell me if it happens
a, both high and low speeds or one over the other (you said both)
b, both high (warm temps) cool temps or one over the other (you said both)
and finally c, find a very (not very damage worthy but find a bumpy road to test your electrical connections)
good luck feed me some more info and i can help you ( electrician )

When was the last time you had your fuel filter changed? When I did mine, the pre-filter in the pickup before the pump was choked with crud. I changed the main filter and cleand the pre-filter and all was OK

Id like to say ive ran across this but i havent have owned several magnas erm?
1 tj 02 auto sedan
2 tf 97 auto wagon
3 TL auto 2004 sedan
4 TJ vrx (mybrothers) 2003 auto sedan
5 KH rada 1999 sedan
6 TE altera auto sedan (sort of experienced those problems when the trans was on its way out)
7 TJ ralliart magna 2003 sedan current
8 KH rada 2000 sedan current
9 TJ wagon 2003 purchased today

What i think it would most likely be and probably the easiet option goto a wreckers get a new "thinker" and try swapping out yours
I reckon its most likely computer related before doing this go get yourself a can of lexite "electrical cleaner non flamable < good shit
unplug all your connections one by one giving them a spray of lexite followed by a spray of air from a air compressor. because it occasional
and doesnt seem to matter speed or temp its good variables on your behalf.

I would have asked you to tell me if it happens
a, both high and low speeds or one over the other (you said both)
b, both high (warm temps) cool temps or one over the other (you said both)
and finally c, find a very (not very damage worthy but find a bumpy road to test your electrical connections)
good luck feed me some more info and i can help you ( electrician )

Thanks for the advice. what your suggesting sounds logical. As said the car stalls all the time. However if i am traveling at high speeds i.e. 80 or more the car will lose power for a moment and than will come back to life so to speak.

Question i have no skills when it comes to cars, when you suggest to 'unplug all your connections' which connections are you talking about?

When was the last time you had your fuel filter changed? When I did mine, the pre-filter in the pickup before the pump was choked with crud. I changed the main filter and cleand the pre-filter and all was OK

was cleaned about a month ago.....

Any coolant on the ecu?

Checked CAS connection, distributor plug, and others for corrosion?

I'd still be checking the ECU for error codes, even though the car doesn't throw a CEL.

yeah that have all been check, or so my mechanic says.... only once has anything showed up on the ECU, cam shaft... But that was checked

Thanks for the advice. what your suggesting sounds logical. As said the car stalls all the time. However if i am traveling at high speeds i.e. 80 or more the car will lose power for a moment and than will come back to life so to speak.

Question i have no skills when it comes to cars, when you suggest to 'unplug all your connections' which connections are you talking about?
Through your engine bay any electrical connections that directly clip out "male and female plug in together" seperate the two spray the electrical cleaner make sure u have a nice sized rag underneath (so, to not get the lexite everywhere) do them 1 at a time. taking note of how well their connections are being made. "ie click noise is a good indication" thats for the cleaning method as for fuel filter/injectors if it is a possibillity which im not certain having not seen the malfunction myself. "nulon injector cleaner & octane boost products work a treat"



the car stalls all the time but not when at speed My following suggestion should cost you no more than say 15 for terminals and 5-10 for lugs $20-25? (I personally like to put heatshrink over the lugs too its an aesthetically pleasing thing.

check your connections to you battery i say do this before anything else get yourself some new battery terminals i like the bolt on ones with wingnuts i like this type i get them from sprints normally for like 5-7 dollars your wasting your money if you spend more than 20 dollars for terminals at the end of the day its copper the connection is only ever going to be as good as the "batteries" terminals not the terminals you put on. for about 7-10 dollars you can be pretty sure the copper will be of pretty decent quality. So you will be cutting off the factory ends and crimping on non insulated lugs with a center size of about 5mm this will than bolt under the wing nut. as for the CSA of the wire I cant remember off the top of my head but the two positive ones you can put in the same lug if you wish i normally do them seperately just cause =)

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Calibre-Battery-Terminals-Wing-Nut-Solid-Brass-2-Pack.aspx?pid=13087#Cross there we go 2pack 15dollars

I now remember I've had something like that happen power drop out car cough n splutter when driving at 50km/hr it was the battery terminals twisting around they were making and braking connection. you can start a car and drive around with the battery disconnected don't get me wrong but making and braking the connection on the battery can cause the car to cough n spluitter while driving. for confirmation does the car take a little longer to start sometimes? and others quite quickly?