Hi All,

I followed Mitsu Miyagi's advice in hooking up my 2din unit to the factory steering wheel remote. Only had to hoojk up the signal wire from the remote to key1 wire on the unit. However, when I tried to program it, all the buttons were registering the same value. I then tested the remote with a multimeter and got the following values:
1. No keys pressed, it read 4.95V
2. With any key pressed, it read 4.10V.

Anyone know if the remote is stuffed? Anyone have a spare one I can do a swap and test? Also, is it easy to pull it out and whack on a new one for testing? I have left it connected so I don't have to pull the unit out again.

Cheers,
Vlad

I can help you out by posting out a spare, which needs to come back, if you cant get help locally..

And yes its easy to remove, you just remove the Airbag. and they unplug.

I can see two screw holes under it to remove it. Do I have to remove the airbag to get access to the plug?

Just looking at the one here in front of me, theres a (Slim) chance it be done with out taking off the bag. But the lead for the controls is long, and from the wheel center is short, maybe, if your very dexterous, its one of the push to separate connectors...

Vlad,

I got your PM, but have not even slightly had the time to research or respond to it. I will do so shortly. Of course with different resistors per button, the amount will be different each button. I would suggest the easiest thing to do to test if you have a stuffed remote is to plug in the factory audio again and see if it works.

Mike

Oh, Vlad while you test it, set the Multimeter to Ohms.
And would remove the bag if you want to check/replace it. Those clock springs are in short supply, I'd hate to see it damaged.

Shoot and Mike, would it be possible to test the remote with a multimeter just by undoing it? Is it all sealled with just a cable coming out?

Cheers,
Vlad

You can get access to the circuits of it.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65906&p=1014465&viewfull=1#post1014465

How are you testing it? Your multimeter should be using earth and the wire going to the audio system (the light green and black wire)

I have used a PAC- SWI-jack on this remote before and had zero issues.

Mike

Its appears not to be able to test without power, however, once you jiggle the unit out after removing the screws, you can take out the top panel of the control, and hold the probes of the multimeter right at the plug connections of the PCB while its connected and powered. You'll need another set of hands to operate the switches tho, unless you bare the wire a little and insert the probes through the strands...

Or you might be able to test it at the 4 pin connecter under the steering column, or at the stereo rear, with the accs on, and look for Ohms variations. without removing it (the control) at all. In fact Id check it every where, it could be a continuity (plug) problem.

Oh, and BTW, when I had to test mine to see if it was working, I had the airbag plugged in, so you can just undo the captive torx screws, and rest the bag in the top portion of the steering wheel, there no need to disconnect the bag at all, just reposition so it sits there. Then I checked for Ohms variations.

Cheers guys again. Will do some more investigating. At the moment, all the buttons reduce the volume.

Just found this site about the current lancers (http://faq.lancer-club.ru/download/lancer-x/maintenance/Service_Manual_2009_2012/2009sb/54/html/M154401570018300ENG.HTM). It would be interesting to see if the Veradas has the same Ohm differences. I am pretty sure I did that as well but could not remember if it varied. I also remember reading about the PAC adapters yesterday for various makes and models where it mentions that an inline resistor may need to be added for some units.

I've installed PAC's in the 380 and the TW, never had to use a resistor.
I think the drama lies elsewhere.