I think that my Oxy Sensor is playing up so does anyone know where to disconnect the Oxy Sensor to see if thats the problem?

Thanks in Advance.

In my car it's located just before the cat converter. If it's the same with yours, maybe you could undo it and then just plug the hole? Or do you want to d/c it from the ecu so it doesnt send a reading?

Pull the carpet back from the centre console on the passenger side, right up to the front of the foot well.

There are 3 screws on a scuff plate that you need to remove, and then remove the scuff plate.

The oxy sensor is a little white connector with 4 wires, you can't miss it. Disconnect it at this point, and its as good as gone :)

Awesome, Now to try and look for it without breaking something.

I dont like my chances

Let me know when you have done this as i am interested in knowing the results of what happens.

I'll tell you what will happen

His car will consume petrol like hell and it will run very very rich washing the oil, overheating the engine and doing a 0-100 time of 15 seconds

yep, its my favourite performance mod...... :nuts:

Really ?? That bad ??

I got told ny disconnecting the oxygen sensor the car would perform better and would not suffer the symptoms listed above.

I was just concerned doing it as i dont want to upset my Unichip.

Well considering that the oxy sensor controls a/f ratios at cruise and idle, I guess that makes sense.

SLO3L,and anyone else out there who have had O2 sensor problems, what symptoms did you experience to suspect that the sensor was faulty? I am experiencing smelly exhaust :redface: , sh*t fuel economy(14.5 l/100k's ave. :rant: ), and varying performance levels :cry: . I have suspected the O2 sensor for awhile now, from reading other threads on this forum, although the local Mitsi dealer/mechanic reckon the smell is probably caused by a faulty cat. This was replaced under warranty about six months ago and the smell returned within the first week, so I suss the O2 sensor now. Any thoughts? :confused:

Disconnecting the Oxy sensor is not a long term option. But it will help you diagnose a problem if there is one.

Better than paying $180 to find out that replacing it didn't fix the problem.

when my oxy sensor blew, the car wouldn't rev at idle at all gotta keep braking while accelerating
**** fuel consumption.
and bit of overheating.

and an annoying noise

in US, once they are removing the oxygen sensor, a small device is used to foul the ECU sending "normal" values from the removed oxygen sensor.

Very interested in the symptoms as well as STEVEGSR seems to have the same sort of problems that a few other cars have had.

Has anyone else experienced those problems and would the Oxygen Sensor solve the problems ??

The oxy sensor is only used while in closed loop scenario. So, that's light throttle applications and stuff like that. When it goes to open loop is when you've put your foot down and it ignores the sensor. The sensor is for checking oxygen levels and adjust for economy and emissions. When you've got your foot down, you don't care about economy or emissions anyway. Driving normally though, I'm sure it wouldn't like it. I don't know how it would go with a Unichip installed but I'm sure in an open loop scenario, it won't matter.

Here's a little bit of gumph for y'all

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ecu/oxygen_se.html

So whats this foul smell a lot of people experience ??

That's the CAT missing or not working properly (destroyed)

or **** fuel...

like tooslow said, it was for a test.. and at low revs the car almost stalls which i'd say is an oxy sensor problem, more money :rant:

No O2 sensor will not cause the car to stall at idle or low revs. When I first got my car, the sensor was not connected at all, the plug was just sitting in the engine bay. All it does is makes the car run rich (bad fuel economy and not the best power, that's all)to ensure you don't damage the engine. As said above, the computer looks for it during idle and cruising situations, where the throttle is at a constant-ish level.

To check that your sensor is working well, I don't know where in the Magnas it is, but in my wife's toyota camry, there is a diagnostic plug under the bonnet. Inside that there is a map of what each pin is, and one is for the O2 sensors (hers has two, one for each bank of the V6). In my car, I just connect to the actual wire in the plug from the sensor (mine is easy to get to in the engine bay).

Connect a wire to the sensor output and then to the + lead of a digital multimeter. Connect the - lead to ground. Leave the sensor connected to the car so the ECU can work with the sensor. Drive the car around and watch both the road and the multimeter. Once the car reaches operating temperature, at idle the meter should oscillate between about 0.3V and 0.7V about one to two times per second. It should also do this while you are driving along a road at a steady speed. When you back off (above about 1500rpm, knock it back to second in an auto to keep the revs up), it should drop to zero volts. During acceleration you should see a value around 0.85V to 0.95V steady. Low volts mean lean and high volts mean rich. If you are always seeing 0.8V or above, the ECU is not reading the O2 sensor, or your car is not at operating temperature. If the meter is always reading 0V, your sensor is stuffed, and the car will always be trying to compensate for this lean reading by pouring in more fuel. This is the situation if you disconnect the sensor. If you disconnect the sensor plug, you may find that the output from the sensor itself is high to indicate the rich condition, but the ECU can't read that, so it keeps pumping in the fuel.

What I found is that as the car warms up, the reading will go from a fairly steady rich to the oscillating reading.

Sorry for the long post, but it's not easy to say in three lines.

To find which wire is the sensor wire, if you have more than one wire in the sensor - (eg for a four wire sensor like mine)
One wire will have 12V when the car is on - this is the heater power
Two wires will be connected to ground (one for the heater, one for the sensor)
One wire will have a reading of 0-1V when the car is running (the sensor wire)
Don't guess on the colours, mine has two white wires, one grey wire and a black wire, the black is the sensor, the grey is the sensor ground, and the two white ones are for the heater - go figure.

The ECU will not pour more fuel in for a disconnected oxy sensor. It can detect the disconnection, and will revert to the fuel map only, and never enter CLM.

A misbehaving oxy sensor will cause a rich or lean condition thou, as the ECU will be fed incorrect signals.

I suspect my O2 sensor is faulty, in P or N it revs itself between 2000 and 2500 revs, and in D constantly doing 80km/h it'll do it slightly. Apparently my mechanic cleared the computer, he said the ecu had an error code in it saying that the O2 sensor was faulty and it fixed it, but its BACK now :(. I can also smell something wierd but not quite sure what.

the oxy sensor only leans it out a bit when cruising at steady speeds from say 12.5:1 to maybe 13.5:1, the car dosent run any worse with it disconnected, and the extra economy u get with it in and working properly would take a while to recover the odd 150$ needed to replace one when it goes.

I've ordered an O2 sensor from Phillcom rally (arrived two days after ordering ... cheers Anthony!!) for $130. It looks straight forward to place. I've found the sensor near the cat. The plugs in the passenger footwell, can anyone confirm that this is a four pin connector with white clip with wires coloured Black grey grey white?

Any tips for replacing it myself?