on some occasions, i've got serious engine "clatter" noise when first starting when cold. I quickly turn the engine off and then on until the noise disappears. What could be causing this? Forgot to mention it's a 2005 vrx series 2.

Probably a poorly adjusted cam belt tensioner, or it may have failed.
How many km, and how old is the cam belt?

Have you checked the engine oil level recently?

Probably a poorly adjusted cam belt tensioner, or it may have failed.
How many km, and how old is the cam belt?

It's got about 157000k's on it. I changed the belt at 105000k's with a genuine one in 2010.

Have you checked the engine oil level recently?
I change the oil every 7500 k's with full synthetic brands. It doesn't do it all the time. When it does, it is always first cold start.Thanks for the replies.I check the oil level often.

Is the timing belt pre tensioner, change with a genuine new unit

Is not " badly adjusted belt " or low oil.

Hmm. Mine started doing this as well on cold starts in the morning. Need to take mine for a service as well. Mal, how much are the genuine pre-tensioners?

mine started making this noise after we did the timing belt for 100,000km. We changed it at 160,000kms because of the noise, bu it has come back.

any chance its something else?
if not, same question as vlad how much for a genuine?? will i need to change the timing belt and all that jazz at the same time again? its not even been 10,000km yet

Is the timing belt pre tensioner, change with a genuine new unit

Is not " badly adjusted belt " or low oil.

my Pajero started doing this after a Timing belt. Hunted round for months try to work it out. didnt always do it, sounded like bottom end was gone. very metalic noise. Turns out it was a dud tensioner. Another tensioner and two months down and no noise.

I would look at tensioner first.

if not, same question as vlad how much for a genuine?? will i need to change the timing belt and all that jazz at the same time again? its not even been 10,000km yet

you done need to do belt after 10k. just look at Tensioner. few hours labour and part should be a 300 job in a workshop.

you done need to do belt after 10k. just look at Tensioner. few hours labour and part should be a 300 job in a workshop.

Possible to do at home?

Possible to do at home?

I've done 2 belt changes on the 3.5L engine so I'd say "yes" to that, but your mileage may vary. (ie you need the right tools and a good read of the manual)

If you do it, first check that the plunger in the hydraulic tensioner isn't fully extended (see if the idler near it can move up and down by itself) and that the tensioner isn't leaking.
Either set the hydraulic belt tensioner up per manual if it isn't set up correctly, or replace the tensioner if it is leaking, then set it up.

Might take it back to my grandad, he is a mechanic and has a workshop. Its a few hours away, but it will be easier

Good plan. It's a tricky job so you should be confident before you attack it yourself.

Might take it back to my grandad, he is a mechanic and has a workshop. Its a few hours away, but it will be easier
Playing the old "Granddad will fix it" card there! lol

He might still need the manual though, and make sure you pay him $100 per hour for his efforts. lol

Yeah wise move.. You need a good mechanical skill level to do this as if you mess it up its not the belt or the tensioner that you will damage.. It will be valve on piston and kill engine..

Max before you encourage someone to pull the timing belt tensioner off you should first find out the skill level. If there skill level is rather basic and tell them to do it to save $100 an hour it will just end it tears and you will then have to wear the guilt. If this job fails it could cost thousands to rectify. You may have a good skill level and save lots of money buy 99% of the people on this forum only have a basic skill level so your advise will be bad.. I would rate my skill level at med-high but would still not do the timing belt, leave it to the experts.

I haven't given him any advice, simply said that I've done it. lol
As for skill level, that's a red herring.
My skill level before doing the first one was zero, we all start at the same point.

Possible to do at home?



I've done 2 belt changes on the 3.5L engine so I'd say "yes" to that.

I know i cant spell and my grammer is very average but that to me is telling him he can do it at home..

Messing with anything timing is very different to changing Oil or Plugs...

I know i cant spell and my grammer is very average but that to me is telling him he can do it at home..

Messing with anything timing is very different to changing Oil or Plugs...

Yes, it can be done at home, provided he has the manual and the right tools. Get an oil change wrong, and you destroy the engine, get a belt timing wrong and you destroy the engine. Same-same.
Most jobs on a car need a heavy dose of determination and motivation, I forgot to add. You do know what I meant by "your mileage may vary" don't you? Everybody has a list of things that they wouldn't tackle on a car, and another list of things they happily can do.

As in everything in life, you can do things yourself or rely on others to do things for you. That choice is entirely up to you.
Hell, my son gets me to change his car's oil and filter for him, something is stopping him from doing it himself.

Got a quote from my nearby mitsubishi and for new tensioner and labour = $465. Going to a independant mechanic tonight , pretty sure he can do it cheaper.
Also going to get a new fuel sender unit. anyone know the best place to buy these for DIY?

$465 does sound a bit rich, should be around the 300-350 mark id say... If you were Victorian I'd say pay mal a visit, he does a good job at a good rate.

I went for the genuine fuel sender from Mitsu when I replaced mine. About $120 for it if I recall correctly. That was in 2009 so they may be more now.

See http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=766780#post766780 for how to.

Where are you located, we can do significantly cheaper still using a genuine tensioner.

Where are you located, we can do significantly cheaper still using a genuine tensioner.

I'm in Bendigo. I've got an ex mitsu mechanic taking a look tonight just to check the belts and confirm the condition of the tensioner just in case it doesn't need it. If it does I'm inclined to get the timing belt done as well. It's done 168,000km and the first belt was done at 80, 000 so it is probably due anyway..... $$$$$$$$ starting to rack up! I can't complain cos this car has been absolutely trouble free up until now.

You can not "check" the hydraulic pre tensioner as such, either it rattles when the motor is on a cold start or it does not is pretty much the most reliable check, if you get the rattle, shut down and restart the motor, if the rattle is gone then there is your issue

We can do complete kits from here with belt, seals, pulleys and pre tensioner (pre tensioner is OEM)

If the current setup has done 80,000 and the car is at 168,000 km just bite the bullet financially and do the whole lot. Trouble free for the next 100,000 km, is worth it.

I just got pre tensioner done on my Pajero. Mechanic charged $260 supply and fit. Noise went away.:)

It was exactly what Mal said. There on cold start for 2-5 seconds. If it rattled on start I would turn it off and turn it back on and no noise.

Got the exact same thing happening at the moment..

Question is - is it something that needs fixing immediately? Or have I got time to save for it..?

Also Mal, could you PM me with your price to do so to the TJ please mate?

This needs to be fixed, I have a broken one here on my bench at the moment, result was 18 bent valves.

You are looking at around the $350 mark for a new OEM unit supplied and fitted

Is the timing belt pre tensioner, change with a genuine new unit

Is not " badly adjusted belt " or low oil.

that's interesting. Mine has started to occasionally make a clatter on cold start. It's a TW auto with 93k on it, new timing belt at 73k. It's not a tappet noise, not a hydraulic lifter pumping up noise, and doesn't sound like a bearing. It sounds kind of like a bit of hard plastic is rubbing on something. it goes away after a few second and doesn't always do it. Does that sound like the belt tensioner? 93k seems like a low mileage for this problem.

If so, how much does this cost and how urgent is it?

thanks

edit: just read Mal's post #25, sounds like this is my problem. If I'm wrong, hopefully someone will let me know!.

i just replaced mine yesterday. i originally replaced the oem one when i did my timing belt at 105,000km with the unit in the Dayco kit. Bloody thing only lasted 63,000km, was leaking, and sticking when cold. what gets me is that the oem one i ordered is identical to the Dayco tensioner.... so looks to me as being either a case of bad luck or aftermarket suppliers outsourcing lower quality parts from oem vendors.

either way all's good now :)

so it's started again: clatter on startup from cold, goes away when I stop/restart engine. is there any diagnostic I can do, apart from replacing the tensioner?

Hoping to get some advice as well,

I have the same symptoms, on cold startup I often get a loud metallic rattling which lasts less than 10 seconds, and does not happen if I shut the engine off then turn it back on.

However, I just got my timing belt and timing belt tensioner done only about 20 months / 20,000kms ago.
Infact I was given, and still have, the old tensioner from when it was changed.

Surely they shouldn't need replacing after less than 2 years, average use?

Any thoughts/help appreciated :)
Thanks

so it's started again: clatter on startup from cold, goes away when I stop/restart engine. is there any diagnostic I can do, apart from replacing the tensioner?

You've just done the only diagnostic available.


Hoping to get some advice as well,

I have the same symptoms, on cold startup I often get a loud metallic rattling which lasts less than 10 seconds, and does not happen if I shut the engine off then turn it back on.

However, I just got my timing belt and timing belt tensioner done only about 20 months / 20,000kms ago.
Infact I was given, and still have, the old tensioner from when it was changed.

Surely they shouldn't need replacing after less than 2 years, average use?

Any thoughts/help appreciated :)
Thanks

Seems there are some crappy tensioners about. Replace it. Quiz the mechanic about the setup process he uses, and ask for the old tensioner back.