Hi All,

Please see the link
https://picasaweb.google.com/cavungarala/May52013

Was trying to remove Front LHS wheel and while doing so, 2 wheel nuts broke with the actual thread thing (not sure what it is called) broken ...And now have only 3 nuts holding the wheel. And I don't feel it is safe to drive that way.....

Does anyone know how to fix this please???? and what parts are needed and effort. Need to get the car moving ASAP.

Thanks....

there called wheel studs easy to replace . you can get new studs from any auto store or wreckers

Thanks magnaman but how do I get the remain part of the stud from the wheel hub?????????/

Remove the brake caliper and rotor. Hit the broken stud from the front to remove it from the hub. To fit the new wheel stud feed it from behind the hub and put the nut on backwards so you have a bigger flat surface going to the hub. Do it up and the stud will pull through until the lip sits against the hub and your done.

I'd replace ALL 5 studs while I was there. Some rock-ape has obviously gone crazy with a rattle gun....

most parts places(if not all)/genuine parts will stock this.you need the wheel stud and the nut itself

Hi GQ...i think i got it now..will try that then....Thanks mate......

I think so too mate...got the front Discs & pads replaced 15 months ago and that guy must have gone crazy with the rattle gun and damaged the thread....

Cheers

True John......the nut too is buggered now...Actually, have to see how the remaining 3 nuts come out, or otherwise will have to get all 5 of them.

Cheers,

Remove the brake caliper and rotor. Hit the broken stud from the front to remove it from the hub. To fit the new wheel stud feed it from behind the hub and put the nut on backwards so you have a bigger flat surface going to the hub. Do it up and the stud will pull through until the lip sits against the hub and your done.

Hi mate

I removed the brake caliper and the Disc (see picture link). Still unable to access the studs....Looks like that I have to remove the Hub as well,

What is the bolt size of the center bolt????...the one which holds the HUB.

Thanks guys

Hub nut is 32mm. Try unbolting the abs hub and see if that helps

Taking the hub nut off won't do anything. The splash shield needs to come off, and the ABS ring if it gets in the way.
Smash the studs with a heavy hammer, pull new ones in with a reversed nut.

Hey guys.....Not sure which is the ABS hub here (added a 2 more pictures now... is it that "Sprocket" looking thing the ABS HUB???? If so, do you know how to remove it??

Cheers,

Two small bolts on the same side as the sad looking studs.

I did remove those 2 small bolts (10mm ones).....but by removing them it only freed that "Sprocket" thingy from the front hub and it had a play..but apart from that nothing much...

Also if I have to pull the HUB out after removing the that big bolt (32mm one)....is there any precautions to be taken care off and any gaskets/rings/bushes/etc that need to be replaced?

And one more thing....when I remove that big bolt...does the HUB just slide out or does need to be pulled/hammered/etc??????

Cheers

i didn't see that its an abs hub . the studs cant be replaced.
you will need the whole stub axle. if you cant find one over there i may have one

And one more thing....when I remove that big bolt...does the HUB just slide out or does need to be pulled/hammered/etc??????

Cheers

Removing the 32 mm nut frees the drive shaft. You also need to disconnect the hub at the two 17 mm bolts that hold it to the strut, at the top, and the ball joint at the bottom. Then the hub will come off the car.
Tie rod joint needs to be disconnected too.

i didn't see that its an abs hub . the studs cant be replaced.
you will need the whole stub axle. if you cant find one over there i may have one

Hi mate,
When you say the whole stub axle, does it mean the knuckle needs to be removed? Also if I can't find one for TS/TR magna, can it be swapped with a later model????

Damn magnas and their inferior wheel studs!

When I first got my TR I broke 2 studs on the left rear, and I stripped the splines off the stud on the right and the nut was rusted on, awesome fun tying to get that off.

Not sure about ABS hubs, but normal hubs you can just hammer the old studs out and what I did to put the new ones in was, I pushed the new stud through then used an old nut to pull it through and rattle gunned it to really pull the last of it through and it worked great.

@OP Other than the broken studs, you have some serious fluid leaking under there.

@OP Other than the broken studs, you have some serious fluid leaking under there.

About right for an old TR/TS though. lol

PS. Studs need to be tightened with a torque wrench. 100 Nm. Wheel nuts with domed ends are ok to run without hubcaps, but the other type without domed ends rust solid if hubcaps are not used.

Oops, definitely didn't tighten mine with a torque wrench :P

My Rattle Gun is my torque wrench haha

And my TR had domed nuts all round, so I had 3 domed on which were rusted on! That said they probably hadn't been touched for a good 5-6 years before I got the car.

Got it off with an angle grinder in the end, was desperate to get the old ones off so I could get my new wheel and tires on.

Oops, definitely didn't tighten mine with a torque wrench :P

My Rattle Gun is my torque wrench haha

And my TR had domed nuts all round, so I had 3 domed on which were rusted on! That said they probably hadn't been touched for a good 5-6 years before I got the car.

Got it off with an angle grinder in the end, was desperate to get the old ones off so I could get my new wheel and tires on.

Rattle gun? There's your problem right there!

Not using wheel torque sockets with your gun?

Not using wheel torque sockets with your gun?

Even those are not too accurate. Tend to weaken with use.

http://www.hsutechairtools.com/products/index.php?type_id=15&top=

I've found that even the manufacturer supplied basic tools can overtighten wheel nuts by 2X.

Main reason I use a torque wrench is that I don't want to weaken/stretch the studs. Don't want them to break while cornering vigorously do we? lol

I just use the standard pieces found in the boot. Never had an issue. If you get your wheels rotated like you should they shouldnt ever get rusted on

Even those are not too accurate. Tend to weaken with use.


That's when used at a professional level day in day out, but for the home user, you will die of old age before a brand new set weakens.

@OP Other than the broken studs, you have some serious fluid leaking under there.

The wet oil on the ground and on the outer CV joint area, you see, is mostly WD40 sprayed excessively to get those damn tight Caliper mount bolts off...But yea there is some oil leak but guessing it must be normal for a car this old.