Right, so i've partially rebuilt and dropped a new engine in my TR.

All is almost well.

For some horrible reason there is a menacing knock coming from somewhere within the engine, every knock seems to drop the revs at idle to the point where the car almost stalls.

If you hold the throttle in a little bit, get the tacho up to like 1.5k the knocking becomes much subtler but you still hear it every now and again.

It's even worse under load.

Any ideas? Not keen on pulling the engine out a second time ahaha

Is this a recon engine that you built yourself, or something you picked up from a wreckers?

Sounds like running it will just damage it more. Pull it out and find out what is wrong.

Sounds like one cylinder may not be firing if it is almost stalling at idle. Stuck valve maybe or a valve rocker not sitting in correct place or even broken ..........at worst big end problem possibly. Sure does not sound too good at the moment.May not have to take the motor out though as quite alot can be done to these engines with them in place......if it is not serious that is!! Vee

Big end bearing may well be ****ed I think :/

Did they give you the wrong size bigends to put in it when you rebuilt it?? Vee

After pulling the sump off, it's become blatantly obvious what the issue was.

The bearings are all 100% perfect, it's the clutch-flywheel assembly of all things. It's really, really loose; to the point it has actually scrubbed out part of the bell housing.

What happened? Well the new engine was from an automatic vehicle whereas my TR is a manual. This meant I had to remove the flex plate in order to connect the flywheel. Accidentally mixing up the bolts, I used the flex plate bolts to hold the flywheel on and the bolts actually bottomed out hardcore, causing some mad wobbles to ensue.

There's now a whole heap of machining and re-tapping cranks to do, wish me luck.

Ouch that may be expensive if you have to pay someone to do it. Goodluck!!......... it is fixable though which is the best part. Vee

yeah that's the thing, I really can't machine so the flywheel is definitely going to a shop. As for the crank, i'm hoping a helicoil kit might be enough

How sloppy are the proper bolts in the crank? If not too bad, assembly with loctite may be ok. Under the bolt heads, on the thread, that sort of thing. Glue it down solid.

Pics of damage may be in order here!

I'll take some photos asap and post em, hopefully tonight; it depends whether the owner of the workshop I am using gets back from Adelaide.

A cheapish option would be to tap out the crank holes to a larger size, and drill the flywheel holes larger to suit new oversized high tensile steel bolts, but it all depends on the extent of the damage. I imagine the flywheel holes may be a bit oval shaped at the moment. lol

How sloppy are the proper bolts in the crank? If not too bad, assembly with loctite may be ok. Under the bolt heads, on the thread, that sort of thing. Glue it down solid.

Pics of damage may be in order here!

NO!, Max dont give this sort of dangerous advice.....

If the threads are damaged GET THEM FIXED, you ever seen a flywheel let go at even 3000rpm, it will cut through the car like a hot blade through butter.

The bolts have most likely bottomed out on the end of the threads, hopefully they will not have damaged the thread. You may have damaged the flywheel however with the fact it was not tight. The holes may have elongated. I would be looking to get a new flywheel at very least if this is the case and then provided the threads are NOT damaged you can by all means use a little locktite on the threads to ensure they stay tight, we do this here as insurance more than anything else

IF the threads are damaged in anyway I would personally be replacing the crank as I dont think you would even get helicoils at that thread pitch to start with and lets face it, if that bad boy comes off there will be a whole lot of hurt from that one