Hey guys, last night on my way home from work I did a rather hard launch on the car, and there was axle tramp too (bouncing for grip) and i thought nothing of it as its happened in the past and as i got to the first corner and slowed down completley then took off again there was a clunk enough to realise with the radio on ! initially i thought it was just a hot clutch as it plays up on me sometimes but then this morning I took it for another drive and its still the same, now what i did was jacked it up, in neutral the drivers wheel turns perfectly but the passenger is getting stuck on something..... it rotates and its literally like a hit and miss with one of the shafts? did i break something or has something come loose? looks like ill be without a car this weekend :(

I accually tried again, now it seems like the drivers side is getting stuck too......hope it doesnt have anything to do with the LSD

When you put that much pressure on the magna the easiest broken bits are the cv joints and diff. Because yours is a ralliart it has an lsd and the diff rarely breakes. Jack it up and look along the cv for any breaks, leaking joint fluid or any movement that is not usual, if not you may have to get a mechanic to test the gearbox.

Another test is change your gearbox oil and see if chunks of metal come out in it. If there are big hunks of steel you know its screwed?

I think its the cv joints from what ive read up on, it only happenens whilst turning really when going straight it rarely happens. shouldnt be gearbox every gear is fine....

Might also add that when in neutral, im assuming the wheels should be able to spin freely....they get caught up but not at an exact place every time, it depends on speed i suppose, and when i find it and try go back it gets stuck...

My bet is on the diff, will not be felt in the gear shifts and although is LSD these can let go as well,

If both sides show the same symptoms my money is on the diff. Axle tramp can be a real diff killer. Drive shafts need to come out anyway, that's a good time to see if they are damaged.

Ill put a video up in a bit, ill take it for a drive, youll be able to hear it inside. i really hope its not the Diff, sounds very expensive.

Ill put a video up in a bit, ill take it for a drive, youll be able to hear it inside. i really hope its not the Diff, sounds very expensive.

Youd be right about that

Just how hard did you launch?

Ill put a video up in a bit, ill take it for a drive, youll be able to hear it inside. i really hope its not the Diff, sounds very expensive.

I wouldn't drive it like that. Just going to make repairs more expensive. You have already established there is a problem, why make it worse?

Pull the driveshafts out and look at them. If they are intact, it has to be the differential. As stated before (post #4), drain the oil and look for metallic pieces.

If you are up to it, and the driveshafts show no damage, pull the gearbox out and dismantle it. Look for damage on the diff.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75579

I took another vid....sounds more like a CV only happens when turning and now upon speed has developed a whinding sound... video will take 1 hour to upload so ill put it up when done. feels like something is getting stuck when turning :/

your kidding? without driving it, your looking at 1200 for new diff and replacement labor (if its the diff that the problem). keep driving it and you may be up for a whole new box.

otherwise, if its the cv's, you could have one look up on you and steer you into the nearest tree, car or pedestrian.

Just to clear something up, it happened around the block coming home from work, I've taken it around the block to put a video up I'm not driving it as normal..... I'm driving slower and Monday morning it's going to the mechanics. I jacked it up and boots are in tact I didn't pull anything off though.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xKZpzsP0yo0 - that's all of it

Honestly think youve done your diff. Im not a mech but unless you can see obvious damage to a cv and considering the sound is coming from the gearbox side of the engine....

You've smashed your diff mate. 3 options:

Buy a new manual gearbox from a wrecker for under $200 and fit that.

Get another diff put into your car

Buy a wavetrac or quafe (spelling?) Lsd for about $1200. Pay around $1000 at your gearbox specialist to rebuild your box and install the lsd. It wont blow again in a hurry.

Can you even get lsd from anywhere else? As in standard form do Mitsubishi still sell them I want to keep the box and lsd in it

Once the box is opened you will find out what new parts are needed, so get that done first.

. . . and revise your driving style as well. Sm-o-o-o-th is called for.

Quaife, wavetrac and cusco all make lsd diffs to suit. Quaife lsds are the most proven in a magna. . And I gather you had normal fluid in your box, use redline mt90 in your gearbox. This will help stop wear on components when you do track days

JEEEEEEEEEEEEEZ those brakes have some squeeeeeeeeeel!

Cusco is your ralliart diff in some form. I recommend the wavetrac personally. They have some serious endurance.

Isnt ben having problems with his wavetrac?

Lets not run into conclusions and make the OP fork out $1500 for a new lsd when it may not be the problem.

I'm not convinced the diff is busted. why is there no noises during hard accelerations in a straight line? If the LSD was busted, I'd expect it to continuously make noise esp. under hard usage.

Have you checked both driveshafts, hub and bearings for any freeplay, noises, grease etc

If its still driveable take it to a mechanic and get there opinion as well. I certainly wouldn't be forking out 1000's off the advice of a few people on a forum who listed to a video.

Obviously he would check to see if it is the problem first.

Yeah going to a mechanic first thing, it's drivable only at 2000 rpm it seems to clunk only when turning, dad thinks something could of come loose, last week I just did evo brake conversion and coilovers so who knows !

Could be something simple. Rule out anything and everything. Put the car up on stands and see if the front wheels move evenly in gear.

ok did that this morning, seems like it gets stuck every 2.5 rotations of the driveshaft itself, noise coming from passenger side, driveshaft end to gearbox.

Mechanic inspected, Gearbox/diff stuffed and driveshafts stuffed......looks like a nice bill coming my way.

Dam. Sorry but I find it weird and funny that the only people on this forum to break a ralliart diff have been named Matt. Must be a curse. Hope you get it sorted soon.

Drive hard, pay hard.

Hopefully your gearbox is ok.

Driveshafts are thankfully cheap at $100 a pop. Diff is decent coin at around $1200. Labour is going to be a killer though.

Drive hard, pay hard.

Hopefully your gearbox is ok.

Driveshafts are thankfully cheap at $100 a pop. Diff is decent coin at around $1200. Labour is going to be a killer though.

I'd seriously shop around for second hand standard parts to save some coin.

Hard launches shouldn't be a problem, just make the clutch smelly. It's the axle tramp that kills things.

I'd seriously shop around for second hand standard parts to save some coin.

Hard launches shouldn't be a problem, just make the clutch smelly. It's the axle tramp that kills things.

They go hand in hand

Looks like itsupgraded diff time, it really sucks cause this delays the supercharged installation......

Looks like itsupgraded diff time, it really sucks cause this delays the supercharged installation......

Better now than after the S/C is on.

Yeah its probably a sign....atleast im keeping the car so i suppose ill have the gearbox off my mind...it has been playing up once at the track so its probably on the way out,

Those diffs are strong so it mustav been pretty worn. Order a nice wavetrac or quaife and get some redline gearbox fluid and wakefield will be your bitch ;)

Yeah gearbox will come out tomorrow, bringing it down to a place in penrith tomorrow for a full rebuild..... hoping total cost is under 3k ! i really have no clue what to expect....

I'd be accounting for about $100/hour for labour for the mechanic taking the box on/off. It's probably a good 6-7hours worth of work for a decent mechanic.

I had a few quotes to have a single spinner manual box fully rebuilt and the cost was around $800-1000 with a brand new rebuild kit (new bearings, synco's and seals). If your gears aren't damaged then you might get away with it for cheaper.

My mechanic is decent, he does alot of jobs for me and quoted me box in and out (ill arrange the rebuild) and heavy duty clutch and machine flywheel $1400

Also includes drivers driveshaft being replaced too ! as that was broken

Gearbox place will pull it apart and inspect, ive ordered a quaife LSD via RPW and bullet flywheel. should come in a week or so apparently from UK.... will post up what the ACTUAL problem was once gearbox place calls me back.

Keep your flogged out diff. Post pictures.

will do haha...will be interesting to see just how bad it was

Beauty man cant wait

bugger that sucks. mine has lasted, how hard do you drive it?

probably 7/10 when i launched it it would be the same as i would at the drags, only difference the road surface was shit and i ended up paying the price.... it would of lasted if i backed off as soon as it tramped....