I removed the timing belt on my nieces KR Verada to fit new camshaft seal, I tried not to move the crankshaft while doing this but when I refitted the timing belt the timing mark on the crankshaft was a bit to the left of the timing mark and the camshaft timing marks were lined up, it was as if the crankshaft timing mark was out one notch on the timing belt, so I removed moved the belt and moved the crankshaft so the timing marks lining up, all looked ok but once all back together and I drove the car it had no power, would drive but not much power at all. I checked the timing and it was out and I advanced it to 15 degrees BTDC as per Gregories, drove ok after this but I don't understand I didn't remove the dizzy or adjust it at all when I removed the timing belt, I checked the timing with the timing check connector earthed and not earth and the timing remained at 15 BTDC , manual says there is a problem if the timing stays the same, makes me think the timing maybe out one notch on the timing belt, anyone had this problem before? cheers

Distributor is geared to the rear cam on the V6, get the belt timing out and ignition timing will be out as well.

Pull the rear cover off, line the crank pulley up on the TDC marks, check cam cog alignment.

Did you give the crank 2 full turns after the belt went on, allowed the spring to apply tension, then check the alignment of the crank and cam marks? I found it far too easy to get the rear bank cog one tooth out on both the 12 and 24 valve V6 engines. Took me 3 "belt off, do it again" attempts on my first belt change, which was the 12 valve TS V6.

Distributor is geared to the rear cam on the V6, get the belt timing out and ignition timing will be out as well.

Pull the rear cover off, line the crank pulley up on the TDC marks, check cam cog alignment.

Did you give the crank 2 full turns after the belt went on, allowed the spring to apply tension, then check the alignment of the crank and cam marks? I found it far too easy to get the rear bank cog one tooth out on both the 12 and 24 valve V6 engines. Took me 3 "belt off, do it again" attempts on my first belt change, which was the 12 valve TS V6.

Hi Max, thanks for your reply. I should have turned the motor over by hand two times as thats what it said to do in the Gregories but I didn't as I thought everything looked fine but i guess thats where I went wrong. It needs the valve stem seal replaced too as its blowing clouds of smoke if idling for too long, do you know what the going rate is to have these replaced? cheers

Hi Max, thanks for your reply. I should have turned the motor over by hand two times as thats what it said to do in the Gregories but I didn't as I thought everything looked fine but i guess thats where I went wrong. It needs the valve stem seal replaced too as its blowing clouds of smoke if idling for too long, do you know what the going rate is to have these replaced? cheers

Yep, got to turn it over to take the slack out of the drive side of the belt (crank cog to cam to water pump to cam cog) so that the spring loaded pulley can take up the slack correctly, and so that you can check the cam/crank timing is correct.

Depending on the age of the engine and how long you want to keep it, I'd be tempted to pull the heads off and do the valves as well. I had 2 heads off my TS V6 done at a workshop, new valve stem guides, exhaust valves, seats recut, resurfacing of heads and new hydraulic lifters. All up was about $1200, but I did the removal/dismantle of the heads and reassembly myself.

This was done soon after I did the cam belt, and shortly before selling the car. Bad planning on my part. Go figure. (The appeal of third gens became too strong, that's my excuse. lol)