Hey guys. Here in the USA there doesn't seem to be a very active community of Diamante owners. But I have found that you all seem to still have a very active community of Magna owners over there in Australia. I assume that a 2002 Diamante is basically the same as a Magna. If I'm wrong, let me know.

Anyway, I have had the loud rattle on start for about 9 months that will go away immediately if I shut the car off and wait 10 seconds to restart the car.

From reading on this forum, I've found that it's likely to be a timing belt tensioner that is failing.

I had the timing belt changed less than 15,000 miles (24,000 km) ago. But the shop didn't replace the tensioner at that time.

I'm wondering if anybody here has ever replaced the tensioner without removing the timing belt. If so, what all is involved?

It looks like with the front right wheel off, the drive belt off, the camshaft covers off, and the crankshaft pulley off, I should be able to replace the tensioner without taking off the timing belt.

If you all have any tips for me, I would love to hear them.

Thanks in advance.

I have 2001 and 2004 Magnas. I buy parts for a 2001 Diamante with the 3.5L single cam motor from Rockauto.com. So same-same, assuming that is the engine you have.

Yes, hydraulic tensioner can be replaced without touching the cam belt. Setting it up correctly is in the manual, as are the torque settings.

When you get to it, check that the current tensioner isn't leaking. If it was correctly set up initially, you should be able to slide a pin (eg pop rivet) through the holes in the body of the tensioner and the plunger with little difficulty. If the plunger is fully extended, it wasn't set up correctly when the belt was changed and is the cause of the rattle.

Rockauto.com seems to have 3 different hydraulic tensioners. Any reason I shouldn't buy the cheapest one?

Not really. They should all be the same standard as oem or better.

I have so many come into my shop to have aftermarket ones changed over for oem replacements, most after market ones have a very short lifespan

Belt can stay on, is an easy swap

I have so many come into my shop to have aftermarket ones changed over for oem replacements, most after market ones have a very short lifespan

Belt can stay on, is an easy swap

Just a stupid question, why did Mitsubishi go from the spring loaded tensioner on the TR/TS V6 to the hydraulic tensioner on the 3rd Gens?

Not a stupid question at all. Spring seems to work ok on the TS V6 and the Lancer engines. The spring setup is so much easier when you do a belt change.

Don't know the answer though. lol

When you get to it, check that the current tensioner isn't leaking. If it was correctly set up initially, you should be able to slide a pin (eg pop rivet) through the holes in the body of the tensioner and the plunger with little difficulty. If the plunger is fully extended, it wasn't set up correctly when the belt was changed and is the cause of the rattle.

If I find the plunger fully extended, is it safe to just compress it in a vice, insert a pin, reinstall it, adjust everything, and remove the pin? Or should I still replace?

If I find the plunger fully extended, is it safe to just compress it in a vice, insert a pin, reinstall it, adjust everything, and remove the pin? Or should I still replace?

Nope, put a 17 mm ring spanner or socket on the rear cam cog, and try to turn clockwise without the cam moving too much. This will tension the rear run of the belt and the plunger will slowly and gently ooze inwards. Then put the pin in.
You can then decide if you want to replace it, or just set it up correctly. Depends on you, and the number of km it has done, any visible leaks, etc.

Nope, put a 17 mm ring spanner or socket on the rear cam cog, and try to turn clockwise without the cam moving too much. This will tension the rear run of the belt and the plunger will slowly and gently ooze inwards. Then put the pin in.
You can then decide if you want to replace it, or just set it up correctly. Depends on you, and the number of km it has done, any visible leaks, etc.

Really? If it comes off extended even the manual states to use vice.

I generally don't let them extend and nor am I stupid enough to try and compress unsung the cam gear bolt either!

I must be stupid then. lol
Either method works. Use the vice gently though, take your time.

Mal, your auto-correct is giving me a headache.

Max, your bs posts give me a headache o we are even

Op, never use the cam gear bolt to turn over a motor or to take up slack in the belt. If you do this be prepared for bad things to happen.

Max, stop dishing out bad and wrong advice please

Yeah vice all the way. Coming from a Mits dealership so ad-vice (get it!?) isn't wrong. Turn the vice verrrrryyy slowly when doing it.

i dont know much about cars.. but very recently i had a tensioner issue,
there was a slight rattle coming from the timing belt area when the car is under load at low RPMs, nothing like heavy rattling, and not necessarily on startup.
it started very faintly, and gradually increased, didnt just happen all of a sudden.

just saying in case your problem might not be just the tensioner.. i dont know :) guru's here can tell..
just pointing out the symptom difference.

as for parts i'd say go for a decent brand.. there is no reason to get the most expensive one, but no reason to get the cheapest one either.
parts over there are mostly dirtcheap and you guys are lucky !!!

i recently bought the gates brand tensioner from rock auto and it was only 45 bucks or something.

As I have stated, I only recommend genuine ones, I have 2 gates ones here you guys can have for free if you want them, both are under 12 months old and both are rattling their guts off. I think it is Dayco ones that now come with a disclaimer that they can be "soft" when stored in the box due to air in the fluid, is a load of rubbish and is there to save so many returns from people who find them too soft from the very start

As for the question about second gen set up vs third gen set up, the second gen was not so much on a spring for making it variable during use, the spring really only gets used when you initially tension it and the lock it off, the third gen set up is generally better as allows for belt stretch etc BUT is has had 1 part which we all know as the pre tensioner which can cause issues. Remember these cars are getting over 10 years old now so is not really that much of an issue when you think of it. Many cars have far worse and more expensive issues than our cars do