Do some regular searches and you can often find cheap ones. Your system may not be totally stuffed all at once.

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=tp+magna+exhaust&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Thanks for the link. I looked on eBay before but a couple of sellers have dropped their prices since then. I could actually afford some of those. I must say though that the poor quality and condition of some is obvious from the pics and the sellers' feedback. I'm not confident they'd fit well but I suppose beggars can't be choosers.

Unfortunately, my whole exhaust system is completely shot. Due to the leaking head gasket (since fixed), water accumulated in both mufflers and corroded through their bottom rear corners. There are also pinholes in the front pipe. I temporarily patched everything with self-tappers, high temp sealant and clamps but didn't expect the repairs to last long and they didn't. The metal is paper thin.

Adding to the dilemma is my inability to solve the intermittent rough running. I've been considering an EFI conversion but this is a sedan and the donor car would be my efi wagon which is driveable but damaged and unroadworthy. The major hurdle is that I couldn't just swap the exhaust system even though the one on the wagon is good (I replaced its rear muffler and pipe a couple of years ago).

Please refer to the pic below:
http://users.tpg.com.au/acheson1/images/EXHAUSTS.JPG

Things to note are:
(1) Wagons are longer than sedans (4,723mm overall vs 4,620mm, a difference of 103mm).
(2) Wheelbase is the same (2,600mm)
(3) The front section of the exhaust is the same between wagon and sedan but different between carby and efi.
(4) Quite apart from the catalytic converter and athough it isn't obvious from the diagram, the centre section of exhaust that includes the first muffler differs between wagon and sedan as well as between carby and efi.
(5) The rear muffler and pipe differs between wagon and sedan but is the same between carby and efi.

I don't understand why (4) is so in relation to sedan and wagon. You'd think they'd be identical since the wheelbase is the same but the part numbers are definitely different.

I might just buy the front and middle sections and try to fit the wagon's rear muffler to the sedan. That would save me a couple of hundred. I thought the difference might just be a longer tailpipe on the wagon but that only accounts for about half the difference. If anyone has actually fitted a wagon muffler to a sedan, I'd be interested to know how difficult it was.

regards, Coldamus

the wagon muffler wont fit a sedan .the efi is the same between sedan and wagon . you just need a efi sedan fuel pump .
what part off nsw are you in as i have heaps off exhaust parts here.

Rear differences are probably due to the different suspension setups of the wagon vs the sedan, at a guess.

Tried the local wreckers? You may find a good one.
Try local exhaust shops too, ask for a quote.

I replaced mine with one from the wreckers about 5 or 6 years ago and it still going strong. You can be lucky and find one where parts have been recently replaced but then something else has gone wrong with the car so it gets scrapped. It is to some degree the luck of the draw though.


Tools

Thanks for all the replies. I am in Northern NSW, approx 75 km from Tamworth. I will see what they have at the wreckers in Tamworth. However the car needs other things as well as the exhaust system and tyres and I have come to the conclusion that if I keep pouring money into it, I will never save enough to buy a more modern, economical replacement.

Wagon?Sedan rear mufflers are different due to the location of the fuel tanks!! The Wagon rear muffler is on an angle as there is less room there beside the tank and spare wheel well. The sedan fuel tank is forward more between the suspension towers and the wagon has the rear beam for the suspension that is in the way.
The carby models have the catalytic converter at the manifold so thats why there is a small difference in the systems. EFI it is under the front passenger area. Change to EFI you get 10kw more power and better running and economy. Its worth the effort and easily done over a couple of days. I have done a few. Vee

Your wagon and sedan both same models ie: TP??
As There are different harness (tranny)connections between the TN/TP (round Vs square) which did not worry me as i put the TP tranny in the TN i did as the slightly taller gearing makes use of the extra power available and cruises at slighly lower RPM at 100km/h.Tranny is alot better to in the TP's.
I swapped the whole harness over to save stuffing about splicing wiring.Took a little longer but you can do it easily. All plug and play then!! Vee

Yes, my sedan and wagon are both TP, so no problem with connectors.

Thanks for the explanation, Vee. That makes sense and saves me a futile attempt at fitting the wagon muffler to the sedan. If I did the EFI conversion, I would only be able to use the front pipe and cat converter from the wagon and would still have to buy the middle and rear muffler sections plus a sedan efi fuel pump. What about fuel lines?

My reluctance to attempt the conversion is due to location. Once I start, I must have it driveable again within a week or I'm in trouble. This town only has a general store and truck stop. I have no other car and need to make the 150 kms round trip to Tamworth at least weekly for supplies. There's a train service once a day but that requires staying overnight and returning the next day. If I am short of any parts, I will have to get them by mail order. Did I mention that I don't have any money (or was that obvious from the 24 year old Magna)?

I've been thinking it might be possible in stages. I could take all the required bits off the wagon, including the harness. That way, they'd be ready at hand and I'd get some idea how much work will be involved to fit them to the sedan. Next, I could swap the exhaust manifolds and cat converter and fit a new middle and rear muffler to the sedan. I also have to swap a power steering hose as one on the sedan is leaking.

I don't see any reason why the carby engine shouldn't still be runnable with the efi exhaust manifold and exhaust system for a day or two. That's important because the ground here is not flat and I won't be able to move the cars once they are not runnable. Hopefully, it should be possible to do the rest of the conversion in a couple of days.

I have a carby sedan at home that has the EFI exhaust system on it so no trouble running it with that system. The carby manifold had cracked....a common problem. Two others i had i put extractors on.
You can utilise the old fuel lines if you want. I swapped them around which is alot of work as you have to lower the front subframe to do this if you note the route the metal pipes take near the firewall you will see what i mean.
Think you would need to flare the old pipe to fit the EFI fuel filter setup or put another common type in its place that just will require rubber fuel hoses and clamps (thats the easiest). If you have access to a mig welder or someone that does welding easy to coble up a system from all your magna exhaust parts you have possibly.Simple hotdog can replace the mid muffler.
Fuel pump you may be able to dismantle from the wagon assembly and rettrofit to the sedans tank setup. Something i have thought about might be possible but not looked into as yet.You can pickup one cheap enough at a wreckers otherwise.Vee

Thanks, Vee. I'm warming to the idea. I took a brief look today and reckon I can do it, so will start with stage 1 - getting all the parts off the wagon. There's plenty of time as the next rego renewal/roadworthy check is not until October. I'll take lots of photos before I remove anything in case I forget where it all goes. There are a few things I'd like to confirm:

Is it correct that I don't need to mess with the harness that goes through the firewall on the driver's side?

I know I need to swap the engine control harness that goes through the firewall on the passenger's side plus the associated ECU and TCU etc. in the passenger footwell and under the console. Is it possible to withdraw the harness through the firewall with all the plugs intact or would it be easier to chop right through the harness just inside the engine bay and then rejoin it once fitted to the other car? (I have lots of soldering experience in electronics).

Did you take the whole dash out or just the glovebox and console?

the loom come's out with the plugs on. the dash stays in . i have a mate that go's though Tamworth fortnightly if you get stuck for parts

Yup the engine control loom is the only one you will need. It easily unplugs from the Engine ECU and Tranny ECM and just push each connector thru the firewall hole into the engine bay and then disconnect all the engine/transmission connections and remove. It goes along the firewall to the Tranny and also a couple of conections go to the relay box on the drivers strut tower. All straight forward and no connections to muddle up as each is unique. Only reason i pulled the dash was the two i did were TN series and i changed the dash to the TP that has the PRND21 display and the power/economy switch for the trans. Also as i had wagon the rear door electric unlock switch moves from the centre console to the drivers door as the power economy switch goes in the spot where the door switch was.
The engine loom does go behind the top part of the brake booster i just slid it forward a little to remove the loom. As all your connections are the same on both trannies you may not need to do this you may be able to just unwrap the loom and seperate the tranny/engine wiring looms and then put the EFI in its place. Someone that has done it this way may be able to tell us if you can as all my swaps were upgrades for earlier TM/TN so swapped the lot.Vee

Good on you Coldy; you are certainly persistent.
My TP has a r/s exhaust and the pinholes up frront have been covered with a piece of steel wrapped around them and held with hoseclips. The rear pong box is a bit holy but patched up and good enough. I made up some bits and pieces to repair/reinstall the rear pong box. I fixed a small electronic welder for a guy, and before I gave it back, I welded up some sockets and bits using a 2 mm rod. The welder was a beautiful thing to use at 10 - 15 amps. The electronic DC welders are great for thin steel sheet (0.8mm).
For a while I have been psyching myself up to get another Magna and will collect the new 2005 TW sedan next sunday., Paid 5 gs for it. Runs on dual fuel.
I agonised over repair costs on the old girl and I note your comment. You just gotta love the old TP; but not worth spending money on it although I spent 100 hours or more fiddling with it making parts etc. The only reason I persisted with it was the donk is so smooth still, at 290,000 Km.
Will write it up elsewhere in the forum soon. Just finalising fuel consumption performance. Last two tanks returned 12.2 to 12.4 L / 100 Km.

the loom come's out with the plugs on. the dash stays in . i have a mate that go's though Tamworth fortnightly if you get stuck for parts

Magnaman,
Thanks for the info. It sounds easier than I originally thought. I won't start the final stage until very well prepared with all parts on hand.

Vee,
Thanks for your advice. I'm relieved that the dashboards don't have to come out. I see what you mean about the brake booster getting in tne way. I also noticed today that the engines on both cars have a least one broken or missing exhaust manifold stud. I'll have to fix those.

From your directions, I'm now confident that swapping over the looms won't be a big problem. I think the hardest part of the job for me will be the exhaust manifolds, exhaust system and fuel pumps. I suppose swapping the inlet manifolds won't be a lot of fun either but I've already had some practice replacing the carby one. I will start getting the parts off the wagon next weekend but won't be starting work on the sedan for a couple of weeks. I'll keep you advised of progress.

Rumpfy,
I patched the front section of the exhaust in similar manner to you but it is too far gone, I noticed today that my repair to the rear muffler is holding up pretty well. For the time being, I may only need to buy the middle muffler section as I'll be swapping the efi front pipe and cat converter from the wagon. I agree with you about the welder and intend to get one once finances are under control again. I already have an auto-darkening helmet.

Good luck with the TW. That's quite a step forward. I'd like to upgrade too but at present that's not possible. However my TP is very close to being a good car. It is low mileage and still drives like new apart from the recent bout of intermittent rough running. It is quiet, has no rattles and still looks fairly respectable. If the efi conversion makes it run as smooth as the wagon, it should last a few more years.

regards, Coldamus

http://users.tpg.com.au/acheson1/images/TP_Sedan.jpg

both cars have a least one broken or missing exhaust manifold stud
Quite a common problem sometimes they don't leak and you get away with it for ages. Pain to get out if they snap clean off at the exit to the head.
Inlet manifold can be a pain for the nuts underneath it. There is one large one that screws in the base of the inlet manifold that holds the support. You may just get the bottom ones undone at the block and leave the support attached to the manifold. Distributor removal gives you more room to get under the manifold. The middle outlet on the charcoal cannister does not get used on the EFI model you can pull the plug of the EFI car and put it on your carby body. Or just swap the complete cannster over with all the hoses and controller etc.
EFI aircleaner assembly bolts straight in the bracket holes are there on the inner guard the bracket that goes on the trans mount i cannot remember if the hole is there for it on the trans mount if not not biggie to swap the trans mount over.
Your sedan looks very neat and tidy how many kays? Vee

Coldy,
About your rough running, will you please try removing the aircleaner and give the old girl a couple of hundred Km to see if it helps eliminate the rough running and see if it affects fuel consumption.
rumpfy

Coldy,
Just noticed yr pic on post #14. She looks really beautiful, and I'd be doing what yr doing. Go for the EFI. Magnaman offered me the EFI route and I was tempred, but I have heaps of other things to do like rebuilding a Perkins 3/152 diesel so I went the newer car route and also with gas. We have a series 100 landcruiser on gas and its about as expensive to run as the TP on petrol. In Victoria gas is pretty cheap and widely available, but up your way not so attractive. I'm pretty sure Magnaman knows his apples very well, and technically/financially, you'll win in the end.
My TP has been knocked around on the farm a bit; bit of body rust, a few dents and scratches; no where near as nice as yours. Intend pensioning it off to more farm work

Distributor removal gives you more room to get under the manifold.
While I have the manifolds and distributors off, I will also swap the air cond compressors. They both work but the one on the sedan has noisy bearings.


Your sedan looks very neat and tidy how many kays? Vee
I've lost track of the kms but estimated around 120,000 to 130,000. It had only 67,000 on it when I bought it a few years ago. In the first couple of years I only used it as a Sunday driver. I was living in Sydney and used the wagon for daily driving. After crashing the wagon and moving both cars up here, I swapped speedos because the one in the sedan had cracked glass. I should have noted the readings but didn't. Once the wagon ran out of rego, the sedan became my only transport, so since then I've been racking up the kms.

Coldy,
About your rough running, will you please try removing the aircleaner and give the old girl a couple of hundred Km to see if it helps eliminate the rough running and see if it affects fuel consumption.
rumpfy
Rumpfy, I noticed a slight improvement when I replaced the air filter recently but the rough idle still occurs with or without the air cleaner. It seems to be getting less frequent and less severe. For instance on my Tamworth trip yesterday, it was rough when I restarted after shopping but not bad enough to stall the engine even after a couple of minutes idling. When I got back here, it was smooth.

Fuel consumption has stabilised. On my last two trips, the petrol cost was identical at $24.50. That works out to 9.7 litres per 100 km which I'm fairly happy with. There's still a disconcerting vibration on steep uphill sections that I can't pin down. I don't know whether it is due to misfiring or not. It disappears as soon as the transmission drops down to third. That may be because it brings the rev range up from 2,500 to 3,000+ but I'm also beginning to wonder whether it may be due to transmission slip, either in the overdrive or lock-up clutch.

I don't know how completely the lock-up clutch is supposed to lock, but on level ground at 100 kph, the tacho shows 2,600 rpm. Uphill, to maintain 100 kph requires about 2,900 rpm.

While I have the manifolds and distributors off, I will also swap the air cond compressors. They both work but the one on the sedan has noisy bearings.

How noisy are the bearings as a regas once you swap them is not cheap as if not changed to the newer r143a gas already you will have to do a full service on the system. All new "o" rings .
New oil for the compressor and new filter dryer and then regas. Easily $250 minimum at a guess as a long while since i had a car done. All my Magnas still original gas so touch wood they will last a while longer yet.


so since then I've been racking up the kms.
Good for a lot of years yet if it had only 67k on the clock. 278k my highest mileage motor still original but now needs work.(rings) Vee

Coldy,
The fuel consumption seems low. My TM auto carby sedan got 10L/100Km on a run. The TP auto wagon is currently 12.2. is the 9.7 figure too low?
With the tacho readings, the front clutch comes in and out depending on the speed difference between input and output. From memory, the 100 km/hr speed is 2200 wit light load and front clutch engaged and about 300 revs more with the clutch disengaged.
All my comments about missing at speed are due to rich running. At low engine revs<2000 no missing; above say 3000 the miss started but I reckon this was an over-rich mixture. See my new post.
pr.

How noisy are the bearings as a regas once you swap them is not cheap..........

Quite bad. I've removed the compressor relay so that it won't seize up. The wagon was converted to R134a in Dec 2002 (cost me $295 then). It has no gas in it now due to a split hose. The sedan is on Hychill HR12 so no conversion required although it will require a receiver/dryer, gas and lubricant.


Good for a lot of years yet if it had only 67k on the clock. 278k my highest mileage motor still original but now needs work.(rings) Vee

I just looked up the service records for when I replaced the engine and transmission oil and filters just after I bought it. Kms were 64,894, so less than I thought. The wagon has done close to 300k but the engine is still quite good.

Coldy,
The fuel consumption seems low. My TM auto carby sedan got 10L/100Km on a run. The TP auto wagon is currently 12.2. is the 9.7 figure too low?

Apart from a few hills, it is a very easy drive at a steady speed with hardly any significant corners, so fuel consumption ought to be low. I used to get better than that from my TM.


.......All my comments about missing at speed are due to rich running. At low engine revs<2000 no missing; above say 3000 the miss started but I reckon this was an over-rich mixture. See my new post.
pr.
That's the opposite of mine. Mine is rough at low revs but smooths out over 3000 rpm. If I could drive everywhere at 140kph it wouldn't be a problem.

I read your new post but will have to study the subject further.

Coldy,
In the TR/TS manual they give a series of Vacuum gauge readings. Useful stuff but for diagnosing these kinds of problems a vacuum gauge is almost mandatory. Is the rough running evident at idle? cos at idle the vacuum gauge MUST read steady at around 70 kPa of vacuum. My rough running I'm sure was due to rich mixture, BUT yours could be due to lean mixture too. I think you say the problem is evident when car is warmed up.
cheers Rumpfy.

is the 9.7 figure too low?
I consistently get between 9.0 and 10 per 100km in my EFI wagon.Use the aircon constantly 110kmh freeway mostly and get better on a run without aircon. Keep it above that and that blows out quite a bit more but never got worse than 12 but thats caning it.
Carby models around the same and sometimes slightly better. One of the gregories workshops manuals i have state the GLX carby manual models can get as low as 7.0 with 7.8 for auto highway. They quote for sedans only........gregorys manual no 257 page 7. Vee

Thats interesting Vee.
I have a slight problem, which is the tendency for the engine to flood after leaving it for say 30 to 60 minutes after it has been on a run and warmed up.
According to the Mitsubishi TR/TS manual, reference is made to a pressure relief valve in the vapour line between the fuel tank vapour connection point, and the cannister. In my case, I believe this problem is due to the relief valve not functioning correctly. If there was a vapour pressure build up in the fuel tank with the valve not functioning as a pressure relief valve, I reckon that the cannister would pressurise, and this pressure would be coupled to the carby fuel bowl by virtue of the BVV because of the function of the BVV sealing the off the fuel system from the atmosphere. This pressurisation would force fuel from the bowl through the main jet into the primary pilot jet and flood the motor. The question is whether this is happening because the fuel level in the bowl is too high or whether it is a faulty pressure relief valve. I have lowered the fuel level from the factory set value, to about 1.5 mm lower by bending the float operating lever.
What I do currently, is when I stop the car when I'm out in it, I unscrew the fuel filler cap to prevent pressure build up in the fuel tank system. To date, this strategy seems to stop the engine from flooding.
I'm not sure where this pressure relief valve is located in the vapour line. So maybe some of my high fuel consumption is due to flooding after switching off. Maybe the TP didn't have the pressure relief valve. I know the owners handbook goes on about "How to start the car" and they refer to what to do if she floods. When car makers say this sort of stuff you can be sure they are describing a problem.
rumpfy.

Rumpfy, I don't have a vacuum gauge but I think my neighbour has one that he would bring over. However I have just about made the decision to do the efi conversion. I intended to start taking bits off the wagon over the weekend but we had heavy rain. The ground will take a few days to dry out but there's more rain forecast for this weekend. I don't have anywhere to work under cover.

Mine vibrates at idle when hot although it is intermittent. There's also vibration when driving at rpm below about 2,500. I am sure it is not running lean. It seems more like spark misfire to me but there is something strange about the vibration - a harshness as if the engine mounts were solid metal, yet I can't see anything wrong with the mounts. I know the dissy and coil, injectors etc. from the wagon are good, so I am keen to swap everything over. However the work and cost involved with the exhaust, power steering hose, air cond compressor, tyres and other things required is a problem so if a better vehicle becomes available at a price I can afford, I might chicken out.

As for your problem with flooding, I had exactly the same issue. It occurred just after I discovered the carbon granules in the carby and cleaned them out the first time. I had to take the car for a roadworthy check and it flooded so badly I couldn't start it. We re-scheduled the check for the next day and I used your trick of loosening the fuel cap to ensure it didn't occur when the tester drove it.

I had a similar problem with my original TM. It didn't flood but you could hear a groaning noise from the tank when stopped in traffic or after turning off the engine. In that case I think there was a vacuum build up in the tank rather than positive pressure. I was worried it would implode. I was reading the TP factory service manual and the *pressure relief valve* and vacuum relief valve are both supposed to be incorporated in the fuel cap. Perhaps another fuel cap might be worth a try. I'm about to send you a brief PM on an alternative.

* IMPORTANT EDIT: In case anyone refers to this in the future, I made an error in the last paragraph concerning the fuel cap. I misread the reference in the manual. In fact there is no pressure relief valve in the fuel filler cap. The pressure relief valve and vacuum relief valve are in a small cylindrical object called the "two-way valve" which is fitted in the vent line that goes from the left-hand side of the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. It must be under the car somewhere near the front of the tank. I looked for mine just now but couldn't see it. I'll have to jack the car up. The manual warns against fitting it the wrong way round. Perhaps that might cause a pressure build-up but I certainly didn't interfere with mine. As carbon granules were loose in the canister, some might have been sucked back into the two-way valve. The fuel filler cap does incorporate a vacuum relief valve but that only opens when the capacity of the vacuum relief valve in the two-way valve is exceeded.

When you take the fuel cap off air should be sucked into the tank not air or vapour pushed out. The purpose of the charcoal cannister is to absorb vapour from the tank.Then burn it later.
Too much vacuum in the tank and the valve opens on the cap and lets some air in to rectify it.
Cannot see vapour pressure forcing fuel into the motor as the only way it could do this is if the fuel return hose from the carby to the tank is blocked.
Whenever the float rises and closes off fuel supply to the bowl when it reaches the preset level the excess fuel flows back to the tank.
Quite often a constant stream as the pump supplies more than the motor requires.
Are you positive the engine is flooding from excess fuel and it is not a vapour lock (more common than you think) and no fuel due to the heat from a long run and or hot day?? Vee

I don't think Rumpfy would make that mistake and in my case it was definitely flooding. You could smell the raw fuel. If you left it for 20 minutes until most of the excess fuel evaporated from the manifold, you could start the engine. It would cough and splutter until it had burnt off the rest of the excess fuel and would then run fine. The symptoms of a flooded engine are hard to mistake for a starved one. Incidentally, the flooding occurred while the engine was switched off, not while running.

When switched off, the fuel cut solenoid should stop any fuel getting to the carby by the normal route. In my opinion the flooding was due to fuel already in the carby bowl or the fuel return hose being forced into the carby throat and the manifold by built up pressure. I presume that pressure must have already been in the tank at shutdown. It surely wouldn't build up with the engine off. Leaving the fuel cap slightly loose solved the problem though I never noticed any release of pressure when loosening the cap.

How the pressure built up in the tank and how it managed to push fuel through the carby is a mystery.

We know how the charcoal canister is supposed to work but it wasn't. In my case, when i refitted the carby after taking it off to clean carbon granules out of it, I noticed that the hose from the bowl vent valve to the charcoal canister was old and split, so I replaced it with a clear neoprene hose. It was just as well I did that because, when the problem recurred, I could see carbon granules marching up that hose and into the carby via the vent valve. The flow should have been going the other way because that hose is supposed to route excess fuel vapour from the carby to the canister for absorption (in addition to the canister's role in absorbing fuel vapour from the tank).

Rumpfy has had similar issues with carbon granules getting loose. We don't know where else they may have ended up besides tha carby. Perhaps they accumulated and blocked off a hose or valve somewhere. I did not find any in the fuel filter.

the fuel cut solenoid should stop any fuel getting to the carby by the normal route.
The fuel cut solenoid only closes the idle jet route. Open the throttle and disconnect that solenoid and the engine will keep running.When you close the throttle it will not idle though. Its only there to stop engines running on when you turn off the ignition due to leaner burning engines nowdays.
I would say one of the one way valves in the emissions system is faulty or the other way around as there should be no pressure in the tank. Minimal after sitting for a long period as it is controlled by the overfill valve.
I would say there is a problem with the charcoal cannister as the granules can only get out into the bowl hose if the filter at the top of the cannister ruptures.
There will be something wrong there somwhere to explain the pressure build up. Its a matter of testing everything. Vee

Rumpfy has had similar issues with carbon granules getting loose. We don't know where else they may have ended up besides tha carby. Perhaps they accumulated and blocked off a hose or valve somewhere. I did not find any in the fuel filter.
Granules only get into the fuel bowl and then will get sucked into various jets etc and even into the motor and stick valves as that is what i had happen on one car.The fuel return hose comes off before that so realistically cannot get granules into the tank and then back to the fuel filter from the pump. You have to dismantle the complete carby and clean all of it and use compressed air to makes sure all orifices are clear. Vee

Coldy,
My experience with the magna tacho is that the engine speed at 100 Km/hr is 2200 and with the front clutch out is 2400. Suggest you check the tacho calibration with a hand held tacho running off the camshaft near the water pump drive. Thats about 44/45 Km PER HOUR per 1000 RPM in top gear with the clutch engaged.
rumpfy

Just reading the above posts and made me think again.
The cannister is full of charcoal and is open on the bottom to atmosphere. The cannister is connected to the fuel tank through the vapour line. It should not be possible therefore, for the fuel tank to become pressurised OR to be subject to vacuum. BUT it seems Coldy and rumpfy have experienced flooding which in rumpfys case is alleviated by unscrewing the fuel cap when stopping. Rumpfy had a Brand New TM years ago (company Car) which NEVER had a case of flooding.
I will check the cannister on the TP to see if there is airflow through the vapour line.
Note that this vapour line is NOT the return fuel line from the 'vapour separator' at the carby. It is the line from the cannister to the vapour chamber in the fuel tank.
Pressure can build up in the fuel tank because petrol is quite volatile and a slight increase in the fuel temperature will give a high vapour pressure; conversely, a temperature drop in the fuel will cause the vapour to recondense and a vacuum will result. This is why the tank cap has a vacuum relief valve.
Will check a few things and get back to y'all.
rumpfy.

Granules only get into the fuel bowl and then will get sucked into various jets etc and even into the motor and stick valves as that is what i had happen on one car.The fuel return hose comes off before that so realistically cannot get granules into the tank and then back to the fuel filter from the pump. You have to dismantle the complete carby and clean all of it and use compressed air to makes sure all orifices are clear. Vee

Vee, I was describing past problems that may be relevant to Rumpfy's case. We have both dealt with and fixed the carbon granules problem. It won't be happening again. I don't have a current problem with flooding either but Rumpfy does. I only mentioned the carbon granules because that was when I encountered the flooding problem. We've been corresponding by PM and have come up with a possible cause. Will post details if confirmed.

Coldy,
My experience with the magna tacho is that the engine speed at 100 Km/hr is 2200 and with the front clutch out is 2400. Suggest you check the tacho calibration with a hand held tacho running off the camshaft near the water pump drive. Thats about 44/45 Km PER HOUR per 1000 RPM in top gear with the clutch engaged.
rumpfy

The rpm figures you quote are a couple of hundred rpm lower than mine shows at the same speed but what I really need to know is whether there should be a relative difference in rpm between going uphill under load at 100 kph and cruising on the flat at the same speed. With mine, there is about 300 rpm difference which throws some doubt on whether the lock-up clutch is functioning. Is there always a degree of slip regardless of the lock-up clutch?

I may have mentioned that my tacho flickers intermittently, mostly when the engine is cold. In those conditions, I've noticed that I can make it flicker wildly just by pouring on some power. Doing so doesn't make the engine misfire but it makes me wonder about the state of the coil.

My lockup converter cuts in above 70km/h but also depends on pedal pressure and engine load.Can be anything upwards from there. You can see the tacho drop the few hundred RPM when it does it.
Accelerate a reasonable amount.....not enough to kick down a gear and you will see it rise the same amount once again.
It will do this at anytime the engine starts to geta bit of load eg: up an incline, accelerating mildly etc.So therfore the RPM will be higher going uphill in the same gear once the load comes on the motor.
Easiest way is to get out on the road (flat road) accelerate normally enough to 80km/h let it change into overdrive and then let i speed settle and you should see this happen.Vee

When the fuel cap is removed is it air going in or coming out is what needs to be confirmed.
Generally when you pull into the servo and fill up with fuel and you open the cap it sucks air in. I'm sure most people would have heard this......unless there is a problem.....Why does it do this?? Because the induction system at certain intervals empties vapour build up out of the charcoal cannister by sucking it in leaving a slight suction on the system controlled by valves.....there is not a total vacuum.
The valve at the bottom of the charcoal cannister allows air into it not out.
If you look at the TR/TS same for carby TP etc online manual here at the site page 315 shows a diagram and arrows pointing the route air,vapour etc take.
Also read the emissions section and it explains exactly how it all should work and how to test each item. Also remember there are valves on the tank as well to check.
Also remember that the fuel line to the carby has a small amount of pressure but the needle if seating correctly should be stopping fuel going in once the bowl is full and then excess will go back to the tank (this line is smaller diameter). Also if the fuel line has such a great pressure build up there is a fuel pressure relief valve in the tank just downline from the electric pump so the line cannot get overpressurised........This may be faulty or blocked with junk. Vee

asiest way is to get out on the road (flat road) accelerate normally enough to 80km/h let it change into overdrive and then let i speed settle and you should see this happen.Vee

Thanks. I'll try that next time I'm out. I've never noticed the rpm drop as it cuts in but perhaps the transition is so smooth that I don't detect it..

Very smooth going in!!
Sometimes you notice it coming out underload and with the radio off you notice the engine note change and if you watch .....the RPM climbs a few hundred RPM. Had Nissan Maxima as well up until recently and smooth in and out. Vee