helloo ladys and gents

1998 tf sports magna
with a 2002 tj 3.5L swap (still running the 3.0 ecu) (cars been runing with this setup for 2 years

anyways so one day i came home then 3 hours later i went to go and drop a mate home and all the car did was crank but not fire

so basically this is all i know which are good
- i have spark
- fuel pump works
- fuel pump relays work
- spark plugs good
- got 12v at the injectors
- fuel is entering the injector rails
- dizzy is good (changed it)
- looked at all fuses
- unplugged and re plugged immobilizer (just in case back connection

SO CAN SOME ONE PLEASE TELL ME WHAT HAVE I MISSED OR WTF IS GOING ON !!!!!!!!!!!

... appreciated

Check for actual injector pulse. Power is at injectors regardless but ecu controls pulse

is the only way to test by using a node light
?

noid light. Google it.

example:

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/apjp02/2011-05-10_234159_2010-06-01_233709_2009-07-21_021332_noid.jpg
$9 on eBay.
Unplug an injector, plug light into harness, crank engine. Should flash if ECU is sending out pulses. Easy as.

Check timing belt. If timing belt is snapped, the car won't start.

If there is no injector pulse, then immobiliser.

Crank angle sensor failure.

Crank angle sensor failure.

CAS failure is uncommon. Hoping for immobiliser issue. Check for injector pulse, timing belt and then CAS.

Seems ppl don't read op

Has spark so can't be timing belt or CAS as either would cut spark

Seems ppl don't read op

Has spark so can't be timing belt or CAS as either would cut spark

Seems some people need to chill a bit.

Then the other thing you can test is the ignition key reader.

Was not directing at anyone in particular but lets be realistic, list states has spark, would assume that has spark at the right place. If the timing belt was broken, no spark as the dist and the cam angle sensor does not spin thus no spark. If has slipped then possible but a timing belt will not slip when the car is parked and turned off.

If CAS, again no spark so again not an issue

Last thing is the immob to be realistic, if either the ring, the key chip or the Immob unit have died then there will be no pulse thus there will be no car start.

Was not directing at anyone in particular but lets be realistic, list states has spark, would assume that has spark at the right place. If the timing belt was broken, no spark as the dist and the cam angle sensor does not spin thus no spark. If has slipped then possible but a timing belt will not slip when the car is parked and turned off.

If CAS, again no spark so again not an issue

Last thing is the immob to be realistic, if either the ring, the key chip or the Immob unit have died then there will be no pulse thus there will be no car start.

If the belt slipped, it is entirely possible for the distributor to still spark. Any damage to the belt may indicate slippage and takes 5 minutes to do. Hence why I suggested to the OP to check. Belt is most likely to be damaged when either accelerating hard, or on start-up, in my opinion. Unlikely, yes, but also worthwhile checking before buying a tool to check injector pulse. CAS is even less likely.

OP, if timing belt is fine then check injector pulse. If injector pulse is not evident, then most likely immobiliser, although not as common on the f series as the j series.

. . . .just waiting for someone to suggest reading the ECU error codes . . . .but what do I know? lol

11 Oxygen Sensor
12 Air Flow Sensor
13 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
14 Throttle Position Sensor
21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
22 Crank Angle Sensor
23 Top Dead Centre (TDC) Sensor
24 Vehicle Speed Sensor
25 Barometric Air Pressure Sensor
36 Ignition Timing Circuit
41 Fuel Injectors
44 Ignition Circuit
52 Ignition Circuit
53 Ignition Circuit
54 Immobiliser System
61 Automatic Transmission Communication PCM Failure

Crank & cam angle sensors, immobiliser, injector problems - all show up.

Is actually a LOT more common on the E and F series than the H onwards, I get calls all the time for ECU packs, I have in the past purchased wrecked cars mainly for the ECU pack in the TE range and sometimes in the F range

A Noid light will cost all of $15 bucks at most, can also use an LED test light as well but need one which reads negative pulse not positive

Any damage to the belt may indicate slippage and takes 5 minutes to do.
Quite often the belts that slip have no damage so not always conclusive by just looking at them. Seen it several times belt and teeth looked great. Often on startup the problem occurs the most. Vee

Very true Vee. But any damage to the belt may indicate slippage, especially from viewing from the top, as the cam gears are more likely to show visible damage than the crank gear.

wow guys i missed out on all the fun i see ... any ways iv doouble checked all over my checks and tomorrow will be checking for the injec pulse. interesting to see what going to happen

ok soooo no pulse

so its going to be the Immobilizer

iv looked up some info about it. am i right by saying that if i change the little black box i have to one either change the key to use to use that box or get the car hooked up to a computer to get my current key reprogrammed to the new one i put in

(ALSO: does any of the info i said said above to program affect anything if im using the grey coloured key?)

or can i just another one and plug and play?

or is there a way to test if the Immobilizer is working and could be the wiring? as iv read that it could just be corroded wires?

sooo guys in a nut shell the chip inside the key shit its self. new key was cut and reprogrammed and it started

well this topic is what i'm asking to know and hopefully i can get a good answer: i lost my original key to my 99th 3litre, the car was running fine when i parked it. i have a 97tf 3 litre that i'm working on, well i took the tf ignition barrel out and swapped the connecter plug over to start the th. the wiring hasnt been touch bar the ignition wire, the car turns over but has no spark firing???