A little while back I noticed a few of the SA guys on the AMC facebook page recently had a camber kit installed on their cars.

My car has only been lowered on Sportsryder springs and Boge shocks with a Whiteline rear swaybar installed. Full wheel alignment was carried out yesterday.

Can anyone shed some light on this and advise if it'd fix a rear camber issue causing the rear tyres to wear out on the inside edge?

I had one fitted in the sa group. Went from runnig -2 degrees to between -.5 to -1.

Rides better and hey it only cost $10 as part of the group buy for parts

Boge/sachs actually Dan :-)

I had one fitted in the sa group. Went from runnig -2 degrees to between -.5 to -1.

Rides better and hey it only cost $10 as part of the group buy for parts

Are the parts still available, where can I get them from and how much would they be now - assuming you know the answers :)

Are the parts still available, where can I get them from and how much would they be now - assuming you know the answers :)

I dont sorry. Pm murph03. He is the wizz.

Dan, they are nothing more than longer high tensile bolts with four washers packed between the body and the suspension arm. Any quality nut and bolt place will have the bits, even Sprint, repco, Supercheap etc stock the stuff.
A big tip when doing it, remove the shocker from the lower mount, when you have removed the four bolts to take it away from the body, also remove the top bolt in the suspension arm, as it then is easier to reinstall the bracket with the washers behind it and then reattach the top bolt.
Someone else will no doubt up the exact size bolts and washers required to do the job.

Might have to do an EOI for a group buy here in VIC - if its a widespread issue here.

10 X 1.25 X 40mm long high tensile were what we used washers are two mm thick, four at the rear and one at the front of the bolt, if you know what I mean, less or more washers is where the adjustment comes into it, cheers

what about corecting camber on the front? is there a washer solution to fix this?

I bought off the shelf camber correction kits from eBay USA. They are made for the US Diamantes by Ingalls Engineering. Worked a treat, would recommend.

Does anyone know why my car is lower then most but my rear camber is fine? Its at like 1 degree

Does anyone know why my car is lower then most but my rear camber is fine? Its at like 1 degree

What was it like before coilovers? I dont really know how they work, but is it possible that you can adjust the camber on them from the tops?

I've got a readout here as supplied by RussianMax when he did the tyres and alignment yesterday for me.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/KansaiDorifto/0_1.jpeg

What was it like before coilovers? I dont really know how they work, but is it possible that you can adjust the camber on them from the tops?

About the same. Must be coilovers.

About the same. Must be coilovers.

I'd have thought the multilink rear suspension cannot just "autocorrect" negative camber - the lower you go the more negative camber you get. You can have both low ride and negligible negative camber.

If the camber is still good after lowering the only things I can think of that would cause this would show up - like dead bushes or bent arms.

My car is still waiting for me to correct its bombadore rear camber now it's on coilovers. You have a mystery bag there chief, have a dig around see if there isn't something out of whack.

Are the parts still available, where can I get them from and how much would they be now - assuming you know the answers :)

We did a group buy from Coventry fasteners, as I work in the trade I could pass on my good pricing. We had a member come along who went to sprints on the day and bought 3 packets of bolts and 2 packets of washers over the counter (enough to do his car), apparently cost him $20.

There is a diy thread that shows the process really well that you could follow.

We did a group buy from Coventry fasteners, as I work in the trade I could pass on my good pricing. We had a member come along who went to sprints on the day and bought 3 packets of bolts and 2 packets of washers over the counter (enough to do his car), apparently cost him $20.

There is a diy thread that shows the process really well that you could follow.

I take it this is the thread: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82626

Looks pretty straight forward.

I just did this today. The bolts required are about 35mm - the ones you take out are 25mm long.

I used 4 x 1.0mm flat washers, took my rear camber from -2.0 degrees back out to -0.8 degrees. Measured using one of those bevel boxes you pick up from ebay so not terribly accurate, but enough to indicate a change in the right direction.

This is enough for me to prove the theory and get a starting point to fabricate a set of plates cut to locate over the two bolt centers at each attachment point.

I used 4 x 1.0mm flat washers, took my rear camber from -2.0 degrees back out to -0.8 degrees. Measured using one of those bevel boxes you pick up from ebay so not terribly accurate, but enough to indicate a change in the right direction.
My recollection is that each 5mm of spacer is worth about 0.5 degrees. The stock specification for an AWD (or any cars that came with 16" wheels, according to the WS manual) is about -0.8 degrees.

So in the link above that's a similar way you guys did it at Beau repairs? I might do this when I fit a sway bar, or afterwards.

So in the link above that's a similar way you guys did it at Beau repairs? I might do this when I fit a sway bar, or afterwards.

yes it is.........

Thanks bud, I was just checking through that link and reading how people were suggesting its too dangerous, but I have faith that you guys know what you are doing, so thats good enough closure for me.

trust me, this is not a dangerous mod. its exactly how any suspension shop would do it, and in fact its the only was to do it on the rear end of a magna.

My car lasted years like that, 100,000 kms , 5 sets of tyres, off road thrashings and all kinds of stupid crap.

It works gud

The washers and bolts are exactly how Whiteline offered kits years ago but they charged something like $160. I have been doing this for years and have never had an issue, as long as you use large enough washers the surface area of where the upper arm mounts remains unchanged thus the ability for this arm to hold is not altered.