Hey all,

Finally got a technical issue, my first since I got the car! Woohoo :P *sarcasm*

My central locking is on the fritz. Periodically, when I hit the unlock key, the car will unlock then within a second or two lock again. Doesn't matter if I am unlocking only the drivers door or the other three doors after the drivers door has successfully unlocked, it can happen at any point. Sometimes they will unlock, and then I hear them trying to lock again but they don't actually succeed, they just make the actuator noise. Once or maybe twice I have hit unlock, they have done it then locked, and then they don't actually respond to the remote any more. Indicators flash but if for instance the drivers door was unlocked but the other three were locked, neither the lock or unlock button will change the state of any of the doors. Opening and closing the open door fixed that one.

I can lock and unlock all of them with ease by hand or key, so none of the switches appear to be stuck. Also most of the time it works without incident, but every now and then it goes a bit funny for a bit and does this. I haven't been able to narrow it down to any specific lock causing the issue but the fact it can either be the driver's door or the other doors that trigger it, I'm wondering if the issue isn't with the physical locks? I also took the door cards for the fronts off and checked everything visually, all looks to be okay to me and the locks/handles are moving freely.

Input appreciated. I did a search but understandably central locking issues are pretty varied and a bit hard to search for. Didn't find anything specifically matching my description, only various other similar issues. Understandably I am eager to get this solved and get the car back to spec!

It's been covered a few times. lol Here goes, for the third time . . .

Bought my TL like that, except the car yard had pulled the fuse for central locking to hide the problem. Fuse in, problem showed up.

The driver's door locking mechanism has a sliding switch in it, the contacts get sloppy and the whole system goes into a lock/unlock cycle.
I've pulled the mechanism out, cleaned it up and gave the switch - just a sliding copper strip - a bend to increase pressure contact, still working well almost a year later.

Bit of a job, but do-able if you have patience.

Alternatively, buy second hand from wreckers/Mitsifix or buy new (if available)

PS The driver's door lock is the master for the other doors, if you have a problem that affects all doors, the problem is in the driver's door gear. If only one door is acting up, it's in that door. Simple.

http://www.southportautorecyclers.com/images/detailed/2/magna_tf_lhf_lock_mech.jpg

Switch is under the white plastic cover, bottom of pic. (pic is passenger side front, driver's side is similar, except mirror image. lol)

There is a plug on the central locking motor for the drivers door.

Make sure the white 4 pin plug is securely plugged in. If not, or the connection isnt strong, when unplugged the locks will activate.

So make sure this connection isnt filthy and the plug is in correctly.

It's been covered a few times. lol Here goes, for the third time . . .

Bought my TL like that, except the car yard had pulled the fuse for central locking to hide the problem. Fuse in, problem showed up.

The driver's door locking mechanism has a sliding switch in it, the contacts get sloppy and the whole system goes into a lock/unlock cycle.
I've pulled the mechanism out, cleaned it up and gave the switch - just a sliding copper strip - a bend to increase pressure contact, still working well almost a year later.

Bit of a job, but do-able if you have patience.

Alternatively, buy second hand from wreckers/Mitsifix or buy new (if available)

PS The driver's door lock is the master for the other doors, if you have a problem that affects all doors, the problem is in the driver's door gear. If only one door is acting up, it's in that door. Simple.

http://www.southportautorecyclers.com/images/detailed/2/magna_tf_lhf_lock_mech.jpg

Switch is under the white plastic cover, bottom of pic. (pic is passenger side front, driver's side is similar, except mirror image. lol)

Aha, I actually read your old post including the anecdote about the dealer hiding the problem while searching but I couldn't work out from that thread if it was the same issue or not, wasn't familiar with the problem. Perfect, quick and easy answer. As for the PS about the driver's door, yes, I did follow basic troubleshooting. I had narrowed it down to the driver's door until I was having the issue where the driver's door was fine but it would stop working at the other doors. That indicated to me potential for an unrelated electrical issue, which is why I raised the thread. But your post seems a likely culprit. (Or Mike's.)

This is probably convenient timing for this to go wrong for me actually as I need to take the Dynamat off that door to perform an unrelated mcs_xi sanctioned modification anyway. :P

Socket for plug is at the bottom of the picture. Seeing it is in a nicely sealed (?) door, and is pointing down, it isn't likely to gather moisture or dirt, but worth checking.

Have fun and good luck fixing it! lol If you do pull it all out, be aware there is an electrical switch attached to the back of the key barrel, it's easy to knock out of place.

You could always pull the fuse (inside fuse box) and lock/unlock each door manually, the old fashioned way. lol Key locks work on mechanical components, totally separate from the electrical central locking.

You could always pull the fuse (inside fuse box) and lock/unlock each door manually, the old fashioned way. lol Key locks work on mechanical components, totally separate from the electrical central locking.

It may surprise you to learn this is not really what I would call a solution. ;)

It may surprise you to learn this is not really what I would call a solution. ;)

Not surprised at all, really. lol
For me it was a temporary fix, until I found the time to look at it seriously. It stopped the 4 doors unlocking and locking spasmotically every time the car went over a slight bump, or I lent on the door while driving. Drove me mad, that did. lol

Meh. Just go out there and fix the thing, already.

This is (relatively) timely.
My TJ AWD has started exhibiting similar symptoms over the last 2 weeks.
Using key fob, most everytime I unlock the car... it unlocks... waits 2 seconds... then re-locks.
Locking is fine. Just unlocking.

It's been about 3 or 4 months since the door trim was pulled apart for the first time. Will see if it's due to leaking door/loose door actuator connector/slack actuator mechanism.

Thanks for the info.

How on earth does a person remove the door lock actuator (as shown in the picture above)???
Door trim off - fine.
Dear seal plastic removed - fine.
Unplug door actuator - yep.
Unscrew 3 exterior door lock bolts on end of door - done.
But then...
How to remove actuator assembly as its (apparently) permanently connected to the connector rods (2 to the external door handle lock barrel) (2 to the interior door handle lock switch) ????
The connect rods also appear to be permanently connected to their respective door locks.
For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to get them off.

Plastic retaining clip at the end of the rod, need to lift them before the rod slides out. Violence not advised otherwise you will be at the wreckers getting some unbroken ones. lol
Rods at the door handle can be accessed by unbolting the handle, pulling it away from the bodywork, then unclipping the rods.

Look like this:
http://quadrajetparts.com/images/products/carteredelbrock-afb-avs-parts/afb-avs-screws-clips-retainers/Q4261A-Wl.jpg

Except they are white plastic on the Magnas.

Slightly better picture:
http://www.cjponyparts.com/images/450/HW1918.jpg

I shall re-attack the door and have another go.
Nothing better to do :P