Hi guys looking to get a rear swaybar for my TE, would like to do it cheap and have heard people running into issues with the whiteline kits, I was thinking about sussing out U Pull It to see if they have a sports/vrx or what ever has a rear swaybar on it and taking that and the linkages from that to put on mine.

I did read during a search someone mentioned something about "swapping the rear end", now if I only want to install the rear swaybar is it as simple as unbolting a few things and pulling the bar and linkages off and transferring them over or is there more to it? I just havent seen how the OE Rear Swaybars hook up.

Thanks in advance.

From memory you could possibly drill the sub frame for the D bush plates to bolt onto and change the lower arms which have the swaybar link mounts welded onto them. Or change the whole rear sub frame

Rush has the kit on his and has no problems, you possibly could put on an oe one but it would require quiet a bit of fabrication.

Yes as Murph said i had the Whiteline 22mm swaybar.

I looked at vrx ones before hand and priced u pull it up. Was going to cost the same to take the parts i needed to make it work as buying the whiteline kit. Would have needed a bit of welding for 2 of the mounts i think.

Ended up deciding the whiteline kit, which i got in SA for $100 was easier as it is bolt on.


I have herd of people swapping the whole rear axle - similar to what happens in the front end. Swap the whole rear with a TL VRX or similar, get a different handbrake assembly, newer hubs and the swaybar. Might be more difficult.


U pull it have a few 3rd gen veradas there now at lonsdale if you wanted to have a look. They have the swaybars from memory

Whiteline IMO are dangerous, I refuse to fit them due to the way brackets install

Just go to pickapart and get a complete sway bar back end, is only half a dozen bolts and is done properly plus having a te can't hurt to replace the back end as bushes etc would be getting tired by now

Thanks for the responses guys, I was hoping it was just as easy to get an OE one from another car, but ill probably just get the whiteline kit, ill call around soon and see if I can get the kit cheaper than $349.

I had one of those whiteline kits on my Exec - the type of kit you install on a k-frame not designed for a swaybar. The parts do look pretty damn cheap and I was nervous installing it. It did work though, and its lasted well even on QLD roads. I had two mechanics ask if I made the rear bar and links myself... such was their concern of its design. :/

If I had to do it again though I'd swap the whole rear k-frame out from a sports. Only because even at 20mm, and on its hardest setting, the whiteline bar felt only fractionally stiffer than the stock 18mm rear bars... almost negligible difference.

Cost of parts vs time and effort to install might be what pushes you either way. A whole rear frame and arms required might cost a bit, and the effort to install might take a weekend (with beer).

Not that installing the whiteline kit was easy - getting those control arm bolts off proved a challenge, many curse words were used. But it only took an afternoon to fit.

See if I had a factory fitted swaybar I would be happy to leave it at that, but the rear of my car really needs something back there, since I lost my license the only driving besides to and from work I do in the TE is long interstate trips, I do it without cruise control and without a rear swaybar, I need to solve one of those asap lol.

I spose I could always ask Mal for a quote on fitting cruise, climate control and a rear k frame from a sports, but id be worried about the cost of that :s

See if I had a factory fitted swaybar I would be happy to leave it at that, but the rear of my car really needs something back there, since I lost my license the only driving besides to and from work I do in the TE is long interstate trips, I do it without cruise control and without a rear swaybar, I need to solve one of those asap lol.

I spose I could always ask Mal for a quote on fitting cruise, climate control and a rear k frame from a sports, but id be worried about the cost of that :s

Failing that, try mitsibits at londsale. They will sell the part and or fit it.. I dare say mal would be cheaper, juat weather or not hes still cheaper by the time you spend fuel getting to and from him

Rear bar changes, or installing one, will (hopefully) reduce understeer. Not sure it will help highway driving?

No cruise control? Man, thats where my money would be going - saves money and potentially licenses. Having said that, I don't know which would be more difficult to install; cruise control or a rear frame/bar combo? I'm inherently lazy and usually broke (thanks kids) so my mods are decided carefully.

Rear bar changes, or installing one, will (hopefully) reduce understeer. Not sure it will help highway driving?

No cruise control? Man, thats where my money would be going - saves money and potentially licenses. Having said that, I don't know which would be more difficult to install; cruise control or a rear frame/bar combo? I'm inherently lazy and usually broke (thanks kids) so my mods are decided carefully.

Cruise isnt hard, but if I was to pull the dash out to replace the loom id like to get climate control aswell, but that would be a bit harder.

Failing that, try mitsibits at londsale. They will sell the part and or fit it.. I dare say mal would be cheaper, juat weather or not hes still cheaper by the time you spend fuel getting to and from him

Im always over in Vic so spending an extra day or so to divert to him wouldnt be hard.

Edit: Might give Mitsibits a call during the week anywho to see if they can do a CC Conversion, Cruise Conversion and what they would charge for a rear axle swap. Would be interesting to say the least.

So got an email back from Mitsibits regarding cruise

"You would be better of fitting after market cruise control to your car.
To fit a factory cruise control would be a nightmare with finding the right wiring
combination to the actuall fitting . Id imagine the price would be that great that
you could buy a second hand magna with cruise alrerady"

I wont ask about the swaybar.

Not doubting it would be hardwork, nor would it be inexpensive... but, its still do-able.

Just off the top of my head;
Cruise control switch + matching clockspring if required
Cruise control ECU and associated harnesses
Cruise control pump/motor and hoses
Throttle body with cruise control

It might mean a new engine bay loom also. And there was the cruise control switch on the dash as compared to the TJ were the switch is all-in-one on the stalk. Maybe going for the dash switch type would be easier or more "direct fit"?

Remember - all of my comment above is based on guess work and zero experience. I just dont think its impossible and I really don't think it would be THAT hard to do. I recommend hitting Mal' up with a clear idea of what you want and what you have to do it with (car type and cash levels).

Skapper is right on the money. A factory cruise control install would be quite the install. As above it'll require all engine & dash/cluster looms to be replaced, installing the cruise control ecu, clutch & brake pedal switches, cruise control vacuum pump & associated throttle body & vac lines, and cruise control steering wheel switch and clock spring behind the steering wheel. You'd need to get this out of a E series manual magna which may be a bit difficult because you have the manual version.

With the H-J series, you can usually swap most bits over from a rada to a magna so most people doing the conversion would just swap it all out of a wreck. I know the e series is a little bit different, but you might be able to swap everything over from a KE Ei Verada and then just trick the ecu into thinking it's in neutral (you would however loose your manual rom which would need to be reloaded on the new ecu). Luckily being the E series, you don't have to worry about the BEM locking you out due to a non-paired ecu.
You'd also need to install climate control with the Rada loom. If you bought a wreck, it'd be an free bonus.

Have a trawl through the archivies and see if you can find a WIP or thread on anyone who has done a conversion to their TE.

And with the rear swaybar query - I'd recommend you fit a back-end off a sports/vr-x model magna. The TH onwards sport models had them from factory. Bolt-on job. Nice and simple. There's heaps of them around in the wreckers anyway. I got a full backend including a swaybar for less than $80 at my local wreckers. When you look at the non-factory fitted swaybar backends vs the swaybar ones, you'll notice the difference in the mounting points and why the factory one is heaps better. It is upgradeable from whiteline if you must. However i'm not sold the the $200 for a new swaybar plus probably $100-150 for the aftermarket d-link mounts you need, is really worth it for what you get. You don't want the back of the car to be too stiff or else the car could get quite sketchy around corners which is scary in a fwd.

So got an email back from Mitsibits regarding cruise

"You would be better of fitting after market cruise control to your car.
To fit a factory cruise control would be a nightmare with finding the right wiring
combination to the actuall fitting . Id imagine the price would be that great that
you could buy a second hand magna with cruise alrerady"

I wont ask about the swaybar.


In a translated version....

We dont want to do the work.

I got a white line sway bar, been fitted for a few years no problems, its on its softest setting, and made a huge difference compared to none at all, maybe people ran into problems running the sway bars on the firm settings? that would definatley put more stress on the brackets.
im tempted to go to medium when i put some new needed shocks in my car.

Skapper, If I were to add cruise it would most certainly be a factory install, I have removed the dash for the heater core before so thats no dramas at all for me. When the time is right I will probably contact Mal for the parts if he has them otherwise I will hit up the wreckers, but thats for another thread im compiling.

Magna P.I, so if I was going to get the "back end" from something with a sway bar, what would I be taking the whole axle or what? If I could get it cheap from U Pull It I would defiantly do it that way, im not afraid of little bit of work if it saves money ;)

Mal has said its half a dozen bolts, seems easy enough, what do these bolts undo exactly?

Magna P.I, could you please post a photo of the sway bar setup and just circle what needs to be undone etc to get it off as I'm probably gonna get a Sports rear end too since I already have a sway bar

Magna P.I, could you please post a photo of the sway bar setup and just circle what needs to be undone etc to get it off as I'm probably gonna get a Sports rear end too since I already have a sway bar

Good call, thats probably the better way, Id like to see it before I head down to the wreckers for a look as Ill need to take a breaker bar and the right socket aswell as other gear too.

@Peaandham - The easiest way to get it out would be to seperate the upper control arm control arm and trailing arms that connect to the hub/knuckle, and then undo the 4 bolts that attach the 'back end' to the car. Doesn't require a heap of skill, just some 12, 14 & 17mm spanners, a decently long breaker bar (preferably 1/2 drive with long 1/2" drive 12/14/17mm sockets) with some extensions and a can or two of WD40 (trust me, you'll need it). The bottom trailing arms are held in by bolts and the upper control arm is held on via a ball joint - to remove you undo the top screw on the ball joint (but dont remove it) and tapping the top of it with a rubber mallet to unjam it from the control arm. (or use a ball joint seperator).

@rarner - I will try and get one when I can, but I seldom get home before 7pm and it's all dark outside :( If you want to know where to remove the back end then just use this picture:

http://i.imgur.com/tTUctRU.jpg

The factory swaybar connects the trailing arms to the middle piece ('back-end' or 'sub-frame') with swaybar links. Non-factory fitted aftermarket ones connect the trailing arms to the frame using cheap u-links that wrap around the arms, and the subframe side mounts tuck into the back-end to chassis mounting bolts. Not a great setup for a part of the car that gets a lot of stress.

What is pictured is not how I do the job, I replace everything including hubs and upper arms, faster, easier and more thorough

You mean with brand new parts, or you remove the entire back end with struts and trailing arms still attached?

Beautiful mate thats a great example thanks, I wont replace the whole rear axle, just enough to get the swaybar and factory beam.

Do the lower control arm bushes and the trailing arm bushes need to be pressed in or would a g clamp do? I hate the rear end of my car, it seems to sway quite a bit, but I did a visual check of all the rear bushing last night at most of it looks reasonable, so im hoping its just needed a swaybar.

http://www.nolathane.com.au/susp_ident_images/7.jpg

However if anyone else here is able to get some happy snaps of their rear end feel free to post them up, because it might take me a week or two to get around to it.

No Aiden, I mean with used back end from say a TL or TJ VRX or similar I remove the complete back end, I leave the callipers on the car and drop the rest as a complete unit (leave struts in the car of course)

This way new one is bolt back in, no joints to crack, no bushes to reset after install etc etc. I change over the arms, hubs, frame etc etc. With this case OP has a TE, gets a TL back end and then everything is not only 10 years newer but also most likely many many less k's on these parts

If I wanted to though mal I can just use the rear axel highlighted in the pics above and it would still be a straight swap?

Is a long way around, more work and in the end pointless as your symptoms you mention are that of generally worn bushes and joints in the back end, remember that a lot of the bushes in the back end are actually enclosed joints.

Just called my local wreckers they said I would need the control arms too as they have the brackets on them to bolt too. They quoted me 300 for the whole lot from a tj. I'm going to have a look at my self serve wreckers tonight and probably take a few photos if there are any there and see how it works.

Is a simple process

Remove wheels
Remove lower strut bolt
Remove callipers and hand brake cables, do not undo lines just hang them
remove rotors
Undo 4 upper control arm to body bolts (each side)
Support frame and undo 4 nuts holding to body, lower frame

To install is just as they say, reverse of the above

This way you get to use the newer hubs, arms, bushes etc etc

My upper control arm bush was replaced already with a polyurethane one so ill be keeping mine.

I found a TL, but with U Pull it they dont charge it all as one lot so I might just take a few things since I dont need to whole lot, I was thinking of taking the two lower control arms (so the one with the ball joint and the only with the Swaybar mounts) leave the trailing arm behind, and then dropping the axle/crossmember, that should work right?

I got some photos for anyone interested, plus highlighted what I should have to undo to remove it, doesnt seem like much work. I can see why Mitsubishi said I would need to control arm too.

So this should be the method of removal then right?
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/AxleRemoval.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/AxleRemoval.jpg.html)

This is what it looks like thankfully someone already pinched the fuel tank to give me room, assuming this is all still there on the weekend.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/DSC01304.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/DSC01304.jpg.html)
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/DSC01303.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/DSC01303.jpg.html)
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/DSC01302.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/DSC01302.jpg.html)

i did the same thing to my tf, i got a th rear frame and just swapped the whole thing over, Madmagna is right its much easier than braking all the joints, it took me about 30-40 min to drop the one from the th and about an hour to drop the tfs and refit the th's

I dont mind doing a bit of work, Ive had hassle getting rotors off before from the wreckers, I dont want to pay for the hubs, trailing arms etc.

No Aiden, I mean with used back end from say a TL or TJ VRX or similar I remove the complete back end, I leave the callipers on the car and drop the rest as a complete unit (leave struts in the car of course)

This way new one is bolt back in, no joints to crack, no bushes to reset after install etc etc. I change over the arms, hubs, frame etc etc. With this case OP has a TE, gets a TL back end and then everything is not only 10 years newer but also most likely many many less k's on these parts

I get what you mean. Your way means you don't have to muck around with undoing ball joints and fighting with trailing arms that don't like to move out of place.
I was offering the way I did it because I only wanted the swaybar setup and nothing else due to the wreck I removed it from having 3" of sand & mud everywhere.

PeaAndHam - my way is the cheapest way to get the right parts to have the swaybar alone, assuming that you wanted the performance benefits. If it is to reduce the 'loose' back end you find you're having, then it's likely to do with your bushes. Getting a full back end off a newer model & lower km car would be a wise move, that is unless you want to keep the car for a while, and therefore you'd be better off buying new bushes. The way Mal removes and replaces the back end involves keeping the beam axle still attached the knuckle.

Yep, see I would like to update the ball joints so I figure that and the other lower control arm can come with me.

I do plan to keep the car for a while, but I dont want to hubs nor do I want the upper control arm, I checked my bushes the other day and I will get some photos up, but there aren't any that are obviously in need of replacement. I think I will have to get to U Pull It, have a fiddle and see what I can come back with :p

These is my upper control arm bushes
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_5164.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_5164.jpg.html)
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_5171.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_5171.jpg.html)
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_5170.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_5170.jpg.html)

Ball joint cover.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_5167.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_5167.jpg.html)

Lower control arm bush
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_5174.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_5174.jpg.html)

Most of what you have sent photos of shows items I would shit can immediately. Especially the poly bushes

Thanks for the responses guys, I can understand that taking the whole lot off is easier, spose I will have to double check the pricing prior to getting it all.

Like I said earlier ive had trouble getting rotors off in the past, does anyone have any tips, the manual says to insert some bolts into the holes but im not sure what size and I dont normally take a heap of bolts with me to the wrecker.

Also how do you disconnect the handbrake?

Thanks for the responses guys, I can understand that taking the whole lot off is easier, spose I will have to double check the pricing prior to getting it all.

Like I said earlier ive had trouble getting rotors off in the past, does anyone have any tips, the manual says to insert some bolts into the holes but im not sure what size and I dont normally take a heap of bolts with me to the wrecker.

Use the bolt that holds the caliper on. Think its either a 14 or 15mm bolt

Not the actual calliper, that is too big, the one that holds the pad mount may do and it's a 12mm head bolt anyway, find two of them, thread them into the holes on the rotor, slowly screw in, taking turns in alternating between the two couple of turns at a time, it will soon just pop off, when it comes loose, stop turning and remove the disc.

Not the actual calliper, that is too big, the one that holds the pad mount may do and it's a 12mm head bolt anyway, find two of them, thread them into the holes on the rotor, slowly screw in, taking turns in alternating between the two couple of turns at a time, it will soon just pop off, when it comes loose, stop turning and remove the disc.

Caliper slide mount

To remove rotors, remove calliper, use the 2 8mm threads in the rotor hat with 2 bolts to get the rotor off. Make sure you also back off the hand brake adjuster as well

Thanks guys that helps a lot, I will need to disconnect the hand brake cable though right? Is that easy enough, ill check my manual when I get home and see if its in there.

Ok well I only got about 30 mins at U Pull It before they closed, I got the rotor off easily but did not know what the caliper slides bolts were and the bolts on the calipers were too large so I used the bolts from a bracket that holds the abs sensor wire to the control arm or whatever. I was able to undo one side before I left, as for the hand brake I undid the star wheel, that let the shoe slip off but meant I could remove the hand brake cable easily.

I can see why its easier to do it the way Mal has said, I will go back on Saturday and hope its still there so I can do the other side then drop the bottom. Fingers crossed. I appreciate the advice from everyone who helped. I will probably also do the camber adjustment while im at it.

Ok well I only got about 30 mins at U Pull It before they closed, I got the rotor off easily but did not know what the caliper slides bolts were and the bolts on the calipers were too large so I used the bolts from a bracket that holds the abs sensor wire to the control arm or whatever. I was able to undo one side before I left, as for the hand brake

I undid the star wheel, that let the shoe slip off but meant I could remove the hand brake cable easily.

I can see why its easier to do it the way Mal has said, I will go back on Saturday and hope its still there so I can do the other side then drop the bottom. Fingers crossed. I appreciate the advice from everyone who helped. I will probably also do the camber adjustment while im at it.

once you undo the caliper ,this actually releases the handbrake cable mount and then you simply lever the cable off the hook or ......

you really only needed to ensure the handbrake was off,back off the adjustment inside the car ,and then a pair of pliers would have slipped it off the hook.

You seem to be going to a lot of trouble for nothing...

I did undo the clip that holds the cable in place, but couldnt lever the cable off the hook, it seemed like the wasnt enough room to pull the cable off the hook so I pushed the hook back towards the car to pull the cable off.

I did not back the adjustment inside the car, I will try that on the next side.

Thanks

Most of the time regardless if the cable is off or not the star wheel adjustment will cause the shoe to be too close to the handbrake drum and thus if there is any form of lip which there usually is the rotor will not come off.

So I better make sure I adjust the handbrake as per the repair manual prior to putting the rotors back on. If I want to clean the grease thats on the star wheel off will standard brake cleaner be alright?

I hope it doesnt cause issues because with my current hand brake I have had a lot of dramas with it squealing, as per this thread. http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99751&highlight=

Should I do anything to the shoe while I have the rotors off or not?

Edit: Is the hand brake setup on a TL different to the TE? Because looking in my manual the star wheel is on the right where as on the TL its on the left. Also apparently with the TE to remove the shoe you need to remove the center hub, where as on the TL I was playing with i was pretty sure you dont have to.

I will need to remove the trailing arm because it bolts to the chassis aswell right? I will be taking it with me.

How much should this weigh aswell? Two person lift? Im going to see if I can remove the rest of it within an hour tomorrow, If I cant carry it by myself i will have to go back with a mate on Saturday.

Yep, trailing arm needs to come off. Otherwise you'll need to take the car with you :P

The back end is an easy one-person lift. It's not very heavy at all (maybe 10kgs max) but rather cumbersome instead. I'd only be taking someone to help with carrying it as it is hard to grapple on your own.

edit: The actual middle piece is around the 10-15kg mark. I don't have much muscles and I wasn't exactly straining myself walking out with it from the wreckers and I had to walk a good 300-400m. I picked off the back-end with the swaybar & associated links attached.

Try 37 odd kg, hub carriers alone are 12kg for the pair

I just grab the upper arms and lift but watch your shins

Ok thanks guys I will be going back tonight hoping its still there then I will undo it, if its too akward I will leave it there and have a mate help me load it up on Sat morning. Unfortunately u pull it doesnt let you use jacks so ill have to be careful when dropping it.

Ok thanks guys I will be going back tonight hoping its still there then I will undo it, if its too akward I will leave it there and have a mate help me load it up on Sat morning.

Unfortunately u pull it doesnt let you use jacks so ill have to be careful when dropping it.

just place a couple of tyres/wheels under the lot...pack it up with boot liner etc.....and then drag it out ..far better to drop 50cm than 550cm

What size is the trailing arm chassis bolt its quite large and I don't have a socket for it

Also this has abs mine does not how do you remove the sensor? I unbolted it but it doesn't want to move

Ok so I've removed the abs sensor can I just use what ever will cover the abs hole to cover it? Also still need to know the size of the trailing arm to chassis nut

just place a couple of tyres/wheels under the lot...pack it up with boot liner etc.....and then drag it out ..far better to drop 50cm than 550cm

Surely you dont mean dropping it .5 METRE to 5.5 METRES?

Unless youre talking mm...

Well so I called the mitsi wrecker they told me to cut the abs sensor wire and use that to plug the hole and they seen to believe the trailing arm bolt is 22mm thoughts?

Sorry If I was posting too much, those were questions that plaqued me when I was at the wreckers and I could only do them off my mobile, I had to call it a day and come back and get a 22mm socket but I will be back there first thing tomorrow morning, all I have to do now is undo the trailing arms, and the 4 cross member bolts.

Just so I know in future though, looking at this TL the bush on one of the control arms, on the inside of the axle seems to be cracking a little, who can provide bushes for these and I assume they are a press in job?

Howd you go getting it out mate? Could possibly, depending on how well I pull up tomorrow could possibly give ya a hand? All depends if My chest infection is better...

Howd you go getting it out mate? Could possibly, depending on how well I pull up tomorrow could possibly give ya a hand? All depends if My chest infection is better...

Got there today, did the other side no dramas, however the right side rotor was alot harder to get off, used the exhaust hanger bolts to pull it off, but when to do the trailing arm and realised I dont have a socket for it, they were either too big or too small, went to bunnings picked up a 22 and 23mm socket and will head back there tomorrow.

Well got the axle today and all up it cost $180

Just need to put my back seat in, new door handles and then I will be inspecting it and taking photos.

Axle is home and cleaned up, im currently painting the swaybar a bright green.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/DSC01319.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/DSC01319.jpg.html)

You can see where the link attaches to and where the bushing mounts.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/DSC01320.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/DSC01320.jpg.html)

Now should I put some grease on these old rubber bushes? I have some Valvoline grease thats suitable for bearings, suspension work, and brakes. Should I use this and do you need much?

Axle is home and cleaned up, im currently painting the swaybar a bright green.

You can see where the link attaches to and where the bushing mounts.

Now should I put some grease on these old rubber bushes? I have some Valvoline grease thats suitable for bearings, suspension work, and brakes. Should I use this and do you need much?

You don't want to use petroleum based grease on rubber bushes, as it degrades the rubber, and it's likely the Valvoline grease you have is petroleum based.

I've used copper grease, lithium grease and just lately PBR rubber grease, and no problems with any of them.

And slather plenty of it on both sides (inside and outside), any excess will just squeeze out the sides as you tighten up the bolts.

I've used copper grease, lithium grease and just lately PBR rubber grease, and no problems with any of them.

And slather plenty of it on both sides (inside and outside), any excess will just squeeze out the sides as you tighten up the bolts.

I thought you only need to do the working surface, so in this case just the inside of the D Bush? Thanks will look into those other greases.

I thought you only need to do the working surface, so in this case just the inside of the D Bush? Thanks will look into those other greases.

You might be right, but I'm thinking there might still be some friction between the outside of the bush and the mounting bracket, so no harm in whacking some grease on the outside of the bush as well.

And if the existing bushes are old think about getting new ones, should be around $20 the pair from your local Mitsu stealership.

They wear out every 100,000k or so with stock suspension and twice as fast with lowered suspension.

And if the existing bushes are old think about getting new ones, should be around $20 the pair from your local Mitsu stealership.


The Valvoline stuff I have is Lithium Multi Purpose grease.

Painted the swaybar and test fitted it.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_5184.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_5184.jpg.html)

As for the bushing, do they all need to be pressed in? The inner bush/axle side of one of the control arms is looking tired.

http://www.nolathane.com.au/susp_ident_images/7_1.jpg

The red bush and the same one on the other arm needs doing by the look of them, they are slightly cracking, should they use the same bush?

Never mind just realised there is no bush listed probably because you would renew it by buying a new arm.

Can someone just confirm for me though, this is my lower control arm bush as coloured red in the diagram above, I should be replacing this right?
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/DSC01332.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/DSC01332.jpg.html)

Also once I get them replaced and put back in can I torque them up with the hubs touching the ground and the axle raise on stands, because thats how I have it now but I saw this,


Control arms have a simple rule too. For rubber bushings, the pivot bolt must be tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels. The reason is that the rubber has twisting limits and a “center” of operation. The “center” of operation for a control arm must be the suspension’s loaded position while sitting still.

But then I wasnt sure about their cred when I saw this



Replacement of degraded bushings can prove beneficial to both customer and the repair shop. Upgrading them to urethane will not only provide handling improvements for the customer

I can't see the bush well enough on my phone to tell if it needs replacing, but the bushing does need to be centred at ground level (you can use the hoist at my work if you need).

Be wary of where you use polyurethane as it's usually very hard and can make your ride very harsh where as the rubber can give a cushioning effect. I'm not saying don't use it just expect it to be rougher.

Thanks Murph, I actually called Mitsi, no rubber bushes available and the control arm is no obsolete so I had to get some Nolathane Bushes for them, I have them getting pressed in tonight, will pick them up tomorrow. I didnt want to use Polyurethane but it seems the easiest way out of it.

I know I should re tighten every thing when the car is at the correct ride height, any tricks to this as I probably cant even get under the car when its a standard ride height? Or should I not worry and just tighten everything when the rear of the car is on jacks and the multilink is tightened?

Any help on how to re tighten this would be greatly appreciated.

Just tighten it when you put it in on the jacks, come in and see me at work and put it on a four post hoist, loosen off and re tighten the bolts. The short term won't do any damage to the bushes.

Just tighten it when you put it in on the jacks, come in and see me at work and put it on a four post hoist, loosen off and re tighten the bolts. The short term won't do any damage to the bushes.

Sounds like a good idea, appreciate it, what are the chances of getting a wheel alignment done at the same time? Because I would probably like to have my camber sussed out aswell before I go and put those bolts and washers on just so I know how much its out by.

Well an update, turns out one of the rear rotors has a crack in the hub section, and it was well and truely stuck to the point where two bolts would rather strip then push it out, also snapped a caliper bolt, grrrr, this is what annoys me about old cars.

However the old axle is off, new axle ready to go on, will go to U pull it for some rear rotors tomorrow along with some caliper bolts and hopefully nothing else goes wrong......

New rotors aren't very expensive, might be worth the expense to save having problems later

That was my other thought, I will by dropping the girlfriend and work tomorrow so I can have her car then I will call Sprints/Repco/Whoever and price up a new rear set prior to getting what else I need from U Pull It.

And here you were not wanting to get the whole rear end complete with rotors and callipers to save time and money and you have to go back and get the same things you didn't want originally, lol

Ill keep my current calipers, I was thinking about getting the TL ones because they are twin pot calipers where as mine are single but its only the rears, that can be done later.

Your right Maggie, I thought the same thing but I dont know what happened on the passenger side rotor, I started threading each bolt in, got 3/4 of the way through the bolt and it started stripping them, I manged to cut one out and then try again but to no avail, the otherside came off without the use of bolts, rather frustrating because I dont know if it happens alot with old rotors or its just me lol.

Coming to think of it, if I get rotors from UPI I will probably need them machined anyway so it will probably work out the same price to save the hassle and get new ones.

Should've tried this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2aKuNSYh7E

Ummm TL only have single pot rear callipers unless this car has had some sort of brake mod on the rear and if it has I have no idea what these brakes are off as even the AWD has single pot callipers on the rear with the only difference aside from diameter being they are also vented

Oh and if I ever saw someone in my workshop do that to a rotor on a customers car I would sack them on the spot :)

Thanks for the insight Mal, I did notice today that they were only single pots, I assumed only the fronts were twin pot once I saw that.

It all goes back in today, bought some new cheapy rotors from Burson's do I need to clean the mating surface of the rotors where it will contact the pad prior to reinstalling or not??

Thanks for the insight Mal, I did notice today that they were only single pots,

I assumed only the fronts were twin pot once I saw that.

It all goes back in today, bought some new cheapy rotors from Burson's do I need to clean the mating surface of the rotors where it will contact the pad prior to reinstalling or not??

Again....std Magna fronts are only single piston caliper anyway.

Only the Ralliart had the twin Piston set up,and the 380 ones.

Again....std Magna fronts are only single piston caliper anyway.

Only the Ralliart had the twin Piston set up,and the 380 ones.

Ahem! :facepalm


Yep clean the rotors 1st with brake cleaner or similar solvent.

New Axle is on and car is drivable, and bloody hell what an improvement, the steering feels so much tighter than it did before and you can defiantly feel the improvement that the kermit green swaybar made. :p

I did have a knock coming from the back end, I then tightened the control arm to axle bolts with the car parked on the ground, since I have only heard it once, but have only taken it around the block.

Will be updating my build thread at some point this weekend.

But seriously thanks to everyone that has helped it has not gone un-noticed it means alot.