Morning all...
For a few weeks now have found the 380 not starting on the first turn of the key (no crank at all) second attemp starts with no trouble... It doesnt through a code either...

Last week found a dead battery in the morning so I replaced it only to finf it totaly drained the next morning .... I think I isolated that to the bluetooth elm327 developing a fault and staying active with car off but im still confirming this theory...

Im not sure if there is any link to be drawn or if totaly seperate (I think seperate)

Any ideas??? Or advice on how to isolate a posible cause would be appreciated....

Matt

Had similar years ago
Changed remote battery, fixed it
Still probably battery issues though. These cars hate any voltage drop

Thanks il try it any way, thats cheap one that cant hurt i spose

Generally hard starting is caused initially by an older batter, not the remote battery (as the remote has nothing to do with the immob in so far as there is a separate chip in the key for the immob) Could also be either fuel pump check valve not holding pressure or injector leaking, you would need to do a fuel pressure test for this

Yeah ok, last time i had trouble with key and also flat battery it atleast through a code... not this time though thats why i thought it might be something more sinister...
As for thecheck valve is that the sort of thing that acts out sporatically... as im yet to see some pattern asto when this occurs...
Anyway thanks for the feed back

Matt

Talking about flat battery, have anyone tried reconditioning the battery by adding epsom salt? I saw some youtube video that it could desulphate the battery and bring dead battery back to life.

see video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFEnErs68XM

Iv seen the videos and read some mixed reviews I might try it... got afew dead batteries in the garage.
There's a guy down the road who sells reco car batteries for $85 never new if I could trust them...

Still no joy with this issue... More often Than not I turn the key all guages and ACC's work but car won't kick over it doesn't even try... When it starts though it does it fine and with no trouble and runs perfect
... I'm struggling to narrow it down considering ripping out the starter but I would expect more consistent sympts for it to be starter motor... Have had ppl suggest starter switch etc
.
..
Matt

Not a transmission interlock issue by any chance? Auto?

So to clear up does the motor crank but not start or when you hit the key there is total silence

You need to ask an auto electrician do a check on your system as it seem like there's an excessive parasite drain on your battery. could it be some stuff or things you recently installed?

... I'm struggling to narrow it down considering ripping out the starter but I would expect more consistent sympts for it to be starter motor... Have had ppl suggest starter switch etc
.
..
Matt

Ask the battery shop test the capacity & CCA of the battery, this will narrow it out of it is a bad battery or starter problem? if you suspect it is the starter problem, try to find it's grounding strip and give it a good clean.

if it cranks and doesnt start it could be the crank angle sensor like a common commodore fault?

OK so it doesn't crank at all no sound or anything (sporatic in nature) so I've got the car up on stands as I type and have been testing the starter and when it doesn't start there is zero volts on my trigger wire at the starter motor... So I went back and now am trying to locate the relay that feeds said trigger or other potential cause...
Help appreciated
Matt

Still no joy with this issue... More often Than not I turn the key all guages and ACC's work but car won't kick over it doesn't even try... When it starts though it does it fine and with no trouble and runs perfect

Matt


or when you hit the key there is total silence


I have a very similar issue with non starting with my 380 as well.

You can put the key in and turn in to on and twist to start,but nothing happens....


but......when you actually PUSH the key into the barrel further whilst turning it to start,it starts no dramas....

Ideas,thoughts ,suggestions ...

cheers

Thanks mate your a champion I hadn't drawn the connection between the pushing of the key and it starting...I have been able to replicate the fault .... $55 from the dealer brand new part (switch on the back of the barrel) .
I owe you a beer if your ever in wollongong ...

Still no joy with this issue... More often Than not I turn the key all guages and ACC's work but car won't kick over it doesn't even try... When it starts though it does it fine and with no trouble and runs perfect
... I'm struggling to narrow it down considering ripping out the starter but I would expect more consistent sympts for it to be starter motor... Have had ppl suggest starter switch etc
.
..
Matt


Thanks mate your a champion I hadn't drawn the connection between the pushing of the key and it starting...I have been able to replicate the fault .... $55 from the dealer brand new part (switch on the back of the barrel) .
I owe you a beer if your ever in wollongong ...


wow...l was actually describing my problem as it sounded very similar to yours...well ,there you go...

So ,what ,where is the actual part that you got and replaced ,

did you diy ?

hard to do ?

and a part number would be great as well...

cheers

that info will cover the cost of a beer...lol

Its the switch on the opposite end of the ignition barrel... Probably has a technical name... I called the dealer and the service foreman new straight away as I was describing it and said they do a lot of them for the exact same fault... I haven't done it yet I'm on night shift tonight will wait till the weekend and see how hard it is to remove before I decide if I let mitsubishi install it though...
Thanks again for the help... It was a bit of a light bulb moment for me.
Matt
I'll grab the part number for you on Friday and add it here.

This is why I asked the question as this is a common issue with the 380, CH Lancer and a few others, switch comes a little loose and then over time starts to arc.

Problem is that some describe a car not starting as a car which cranks but will not fire where as others describe a non start as a car which is totally dead, is difficult sometimes to determine which issue people have

I had a similar issue a few weeks back and it happened to be the key.
I'd been using the same remote key for years.
Now that I've changed the remote key to my new spare, the problem has gone; I couldn't believe it. lol

Anyway quick update the replacement part is $55 ebay (mits dealer in vic u believe) and a few cents more from the stealership really very simple to change and instantly fixed the problem.
New switch installed is not perfectly tight just by design but satisfactory anyway. Im very happy to have fixed it myself if anyone neds any tips just ask I will help out its easy.
Quote from dealership was $125 for labor plus $55.?? For the part.

Anyway problem solved

The dreaded ignition switch failure. As stated before, spring tension gets looser, then heat builds up to the point where the switch backing plate holding the contacts melt and the contacts back out of the retaining plate. And then the car won't crank over.

First came across this on a Sigma years ago. Hasn't Mitsu fixed that problem yet? A bit slack! lol

Hi all,

I think mine is starting to do it also. It happened on Sunday and again yesterday. Key turns but there is absolutely no attempt made to crank the engine. Once switched on, there is quiet a lot of play with the key in the barrel. Could this be related?

Also, is this the part I require?

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/150905320574?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1

Sure looks like the right part, but not owning a 380 myself, Mal will have to confirm.

The actual key socket isn't physically connected to the ignition switch in any rigid way, it is just a flat strip of metal that turns in the centre of the ignition switch - so any play at the key is not important.

Nice to know the 380/CH/CJ all use the same switch. Having a CJ and 2 CH Lancers in the family I will know what to suspect if they have starting problems.

If you can get to the back of the switch and wriggle the wiring around while you turn the key, and it then magically starts, you know the switch is faulty.

EDIT: just looked at the picture again, wriggling wires won't work - but you could unmount the switch, and turn it with a tight fitting screwdriver, while pushing/pulling up on the screwdriver and see how it reacts.

If you replace it, pull the old switch apart and show us how it has failed, just for our education. lol

Ffs just get a new switch as is a known issue and is not like it costs a grand either

Kif. Is the correct switch

Thanks Mal,

Is there a write up or "how to" anywhere? Might try tackling it myself if I have a rough idea of what needs to be pulled apart. If not, can be a job for you Mal when I come down lol

Thanks Mal,

Is there a write up or "how to" anywhere?


There is now :D

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102804

Well done!

Read your "how to" thread, wanted to do this myself but failed at the first step - "First, start with a 380."

After the odd failure to start from time to time as described in this thread, I have decided I should do something about it, after the car failed to start about 5 times today. Wasn't sure what it was, but had ruled out the remote, key, battery, and starter motor. Pretty sure now it is the ignition switch. Thanks for all those that contributed to this thread, and thanks Kif for the 'how to' thread. Now to actually do it...