Had a mechanic check out an oil leak I've had for a while today and he says it's a "rear end seal", not sure what that is but he isn't keen to fix it considering the KM's the old girl has done.

Also been having a few issues with the cooling system and noticed today a big crack across the top of the radiator.

The trans has been a little more "funny" than usual lately a well.

So I'm looking around for a replacement, as some may have read I missed out on a Black KW2 wagon so I'm just keeping my mind open as I look around.

But can anyone tell me is a rear end seal as bad as the mechanic made out?

Nah, drop trans out and replace the seal

And doing the above can cost $600! So its not the best

Does the transmission need to be drained to drop out?

Is it a good idea to do the seal while doing a transmission flush?

If seals aren't leaking I wouldn't bother. Its a good idea to drain it before removal.

I'm getting a second opinion on Monday from a Mechanic who is a transmission specialist so we'll see then but $600 seems a lot to spend on a 400,000km emgine when it also needs the belt done soon and a 2nd hand 3.5 would cost about $1500 with belts done.

The rear crankshaft seal if one huge one, they rarely leak unless the car has done really high km, and then you may find a groove worn in the mating surface of the crankshaft, and a new seal won't last as long as the original. Worth checking before you rip into it that the crankcase ventillation system is working correctly and pressure isn't building up in the crankcase pushing the oil out. Also, some mechanics see oil at the bottom of the engine and assume its the rear seal, whereas the leak is further up the engine.

Transmission flush is done with the gearbox in the car, so that won't help - but yeah, if you are dropping the transmission drain it first.

f you can find a low km 3.5 engine, go for it - but it will cost you a lot more than $1.5K before its in and running.

2nd opinion's come back that it is the rear seal so I've given him the OK to replace it. He warned me about the groove and he said he will have as good a look as he can. I found a 3.8 for $1100 on my side of town but I think I'd just stick with the 3.5 if this engines groove is out. Hopefully it's a cheap easy fix so we can keep it for a second car for a few more years to come.

I looked at a 5.7 VZ goon today ...... gee it's tempting.

FYI - In case you are wondering, this is what the main crankshaft seal and carrier look like (although pic is not off a Magna)

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/a3b4/trans/rms.jpg

And this is the groove the mechanic may find. (also not off a Magna) The groove shouldn't be there, it's a wear mark.

http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87210&stc=1&d=1326108794

What about a speedy sleeve if there is a groove?

Sorry to hear mate.
I know how it feels. But if it can be done for $600, apart from being a bit pricey why not go ahead with it?
It's not like it's a bombed out 1st gen. If that was the case, then yeah for sure just dump it some where. But 3rd gen's are still good cars and i'm sure your car is worth way more than $600 that's for sure.

Keep us updated.

Unfortunately as a car ages these problems become more common.
If DIY is not an option, it's what kills older cars - oil leaks, a worn out CV joint, alternator, it soon adds up.

I'm currently trying to get a 1996 Isuzu Trooper back into working order, if I can't fix it myself it's not worth the money to get it done by a mechanic, so I feel your dilemma and (financial) pain.

All clear no grooves could be seen the Mechanic said, so he's doing the radiator as well while he has it...... but the battery might have died LoL.

Picked the car up today and it's running well $900 later.

Battery was fine.

Things he did,
New oil cooler lines.
Trans Flush.
New distributor seal(or gasket or something).
New rear seal.
New Radiator and hoses.