What are people using as far as headlight bulbs are concerned?
The high beams are good, but the low beams don't really go far enough which makes highway driving a bit difficult.

Do HID conversions work well with the parabolic lights? They seem as cheap or cheaper than some halogen bulbs these days.

HID's work well with projector headlights (ie: newer cars that dont use reflectors in the headlight design) anything like parras or standard headlights that use a reflector will produce too much glare, you can do it just adjusting it right and using a good kit can help avoid glare.

Just as far as bulbs are concerned Phillips and Narva make good quality +100 or more globes, these are the best before HIDs or retrofitting projectors.

I when I installed my Parras I adjusted my low beams to sit higher, not so high that they glare people too much but they do throw a heap more light with a simple adjustment.

Philips Xtreme Vision and Osram Nightbreakers are the way to go for good bulbs. Get them cheap from Powerbulbs http://www.powerbulbs.com/au

HIDs in reflectors are a very bad idea for numerous reasons, but if you went down this path, you would need to aim them down low to avoid really pissing off other motorists, which defeats the purpose of putting them in to begin with.

HIDs with a projector retrofit on the other hand are an excellent idea. I did this on my Magna with parabolic lights. The parabolic lights are not good for light output so it's a good way to overcome this. I had projectors with HIDs in my low beam (wired in as low/high) and HIDs in the standard high beam reflectors. Highway driving was incredible.

"but if you went down this path, you would need to aim them down low to avoid really pissing off other motorists, which defeats the purpose of putting them in to begin with."

We all want to see better at night - no question, but have you considered what can happen if the on-coming driver is dazzled by you? Apart from being pissed off, he may well run into you. That really pisses me off. On a roadway, ALL drivers have to be able to see where they are going. HID lights must by law have auto height adjusters, and for good reason. Incidentally, the same applies to the use of foglights in standard conditions. In most cases, they dazzle hell out of me and are utterly useless as a driving aid anyway. If only the law would jump on users.

I have had a variety of HID's and Halogens in my parabolics. I had Phillips Blue Vision (4000k) for a while, they were good but not white enough for me.

I then went to HID's. I was given a set of Hi and low 8000k 35W which were far too blue. I then changed them to 6000k 35W. This was much better but after riding in maggie3.5's 380, I decided to change mine to 5000k 35W which are pure white. This was okay but still not as good as I wanted. After many chats with Maggie3.5, he convinced me to fit High and Low projectors to my parabolics as he had had done on his Magna and his 380. Took a bit of convincing but I did it. Been done for about 2 months now and I havent looked back. They still need shrouds, but they are on there way from overseas. I already had the HID globes for my projector build and the parabolic headlights. Four Morimoto Mini H1 projectors cost me $100, Angel eyes cost me $50 and then shrouds cost me $32. If you need HID's you need to add around $100 for a Jaycar response kit. (These are $50 for a pair and Ive been using these now with no worries.)

Here is the finished product
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/988503_10200758388156158_1004720142_n.jpg
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x118/rushy_m/20130518_073112.jpg (http://s185.photobucket.com/user/rushy_m/media/20130518_073112.jpg.html)

The cutoff line
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/603381_10200658185611157_1097851407_n.jpg

In the country, high and low beam. Taken at pure dark.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/7974_10200883034632242_1544273188_n.jpg

Thanks guys.
Are the xtreme vision much better than the Osram Night Breakers?

And, is the wiring, fuses, relays etc all ok to handle these bulbs?

I guess for the high beams I could use HID, but I wouldn't be able to flash my high beams would I?

Thanks guys.
Are the xtreme vision much better than the Osram Night Breakers?

And, is the wiring, fuses, relays etc all ok to handle these bulbs?

I guess for the high beams I could use HID, but I wouldn't be able to flash my high beams would I?

No issues with wiring. Those bulbs are a direct replacement. They are not over wattaged bulbs. Also, the Osram night breakers are sold here as Narva Blue Power. Repco etc has regulare discounts of these and works out to be about the same cost as online. As for which one is better, the philips and osram are pretty much the same. Mine has the Narva/Osram and the wife's outlander has the Philips and I cannot see any difference.

However, as Rush mentioned, if you want HIDs then get MrSPL to retro fit onto your existing lights. However, these are not legal as they don't have auto leveling and washer jets but otherwise has better light aiming/projection then fitting directly into the existing light housings. Having said that, the ZG Outlander did come with HIDs with parabolic reflectors. Mitsubishi then moved back to projectors in the ZH for HIDs. Note that the parabolic relectors of the Outlander are different to the magna ones in that they are all vertical surfaces like the ones for the highbeams.

Are the xtreme vision much better than the Osram Night Breakers?

And, is the wiring, fuses, relays etc all ok to handle these bulbs?

I guess for the high beams I could use HID, but I wouldn't be able to flash my high beams would I?
The Xtremevisions may be a smidgen better, but I'm not sure if it would be noticeable. I went for the Nightbreakers on my 380 and am very happy with them, especially given their price compared to the Philips.

They are standard wattage bulbs so no need to upgrade anything to make them work. However, it's been proven that stock Magna headlight wiring is completely inadequate. Putting decent standard wattage bulbs with relays and upgraded wiring could improve light output by around 25%, so that's something that's worth looking into.

HIDs take a while to warm up. It will vary between bulbs and ballasts, but 10-20 seconds is entirely possible for a warm up time from cold. Also, because of the high amount of power they take to get going, you cannot flash them in succession like you would with halogen bulbs.


However, as Rush mentioned, if you want HIDs then get MrSPL to retro fit onto your existing lights.
My suggestion is that if you are looking at installing a HID kit yourself, then you have the technical ability to install projectors. The Morimoto Minis are virtually plug and play in parabolic lights. The physical installation does not take long and is not hard. I spent more time with wiring than anything else.

I went from standard to philips +100s and what a massive difference! Besides lack of auto levelling being illegal, stock hids still hit me right in the eyes when the vehicle is on the wrong angle. So imagine without the auto leveling! Also read an article which stated hids diminish your night vision being how intense they are. I still love hids, it's like night and day compared to a standard filament globe. Just a bit too iffy to have aftermarket in my opinion. Good luck with your decision! It's hardly easy.

What color are the Xtreme and Nightbreaker bulbs, just the standard color?

What color are the Xtreme and Nightbreaker bulbs, just the standard color?

they are both 80% whiter and 20% brighter. they both have a blue ring on the glass which gives a whiter glow and are 100% street legal as opposed to other blue bulbs.

What color are the Xtreme and Nightbreaker bulbs, just the standard color?
My Nightbreakers are much whiter to look at, and the light output is definitely whiter. Not HID white, but pretty decent for a halogen.

I've just put in Phillips X-tremeVision bulbs. I'm happy with them - well as happy as any of us can be with the 3rd gen Para headlight limitations.
I also adjusted my headlights which was desperately needed so I couldn't really say how much better they are as I'm sure just adjusting the lights made 50% of the difference lol

Only 20% brighter?
The advertisement says +100% though

Are both low beam and high beam globes H7?

Only 20% brighter?
The advertisement says +100% though

Are both low beam and high beam globes H7?

I meant the otherway around. 20% whiter and 80% brighter. Narva now has Blue Plus 90 instead of Blue Power so still 20% whiter but 90% brighter. Interestingly the latest Osram Night Breakers Plus (which the Narva Blue Plus 90 are based on) are 90% brighter but only claim to be 10% whiter.
As for globe types, depends on whether standard or parabolic for TE/KE to TJ/KJ. TL/KL and TW/KW uses H4 for the LB/HB combo and H1 for the dedicated HB.
There is a FAQ on lighting here somewhere.

Found it (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57256). However it has an error in it and corrected as follows:
TE/KE - TJ/KJ:
Standard headlamp low/high beam combo - H4 55/60W
Standard headlamp dedicated high beam - H1 55W
Parabolic headlamp low beam - H7 55W
Parabolic headlamp high beam - H1 55W

TL/KL - TW/KW:
Low/high beam combo - H4 55/60W
Dedicated high beam - H1 55W

For all:
Fog lights - H3 55W

Only 20% brighter?
The advertisement says +100% though
They're 100% brighter at their brightest point, but they're not 100% brighter all over nor do they have 100% more light output.

Still a good upgrade nonetheless.

Thanks guys for all the useful info :)

Just got another question...

Since one bulb is H4 does that mean that it is both Hi and Lo beam?
And the H7 is just the high beam bulb?

Just got another question...

Since one bulb is H4 does that mean that it is both Hi and Lo beam?
And the H7 is just the high beam bulb?

Yes and no. The H4 is both high and low but the H7 is low only.

In the L/W and E-J non-parabolics, when in lowbeam, the outer ones are lit at 55W and when in highbeam, the inner ones turns on at 55W and the outer ones switch to 60W. Whereas for the E-J parabolics, the outer ones remain in 55W in highbeam mode. Note that for the L/W and E-J non-parabolics, and also 1st and 2nd gens, if you pull back the stalk such that the highbeam is turned on and hasn't clicked, don't hold it there for any length of time otherwise you will fry the wiring as both the 55W and 60W filaments are lit on the outer ones as well as the 55W inner ones. AND by inner and outer, I mean the light housings.

Thanks for that.
It's not as I'd hoped as I would like to run HID high beams but halogen low beams that way I don't blind other drivers and at the same time have really bright lights at high beam but it seems it won't work that way

If you want brigh highbeams, install a nudge bar and then fit some bright LED driving lights. See a recent topic on it by daza 888.

I would like brighter lights for safety but not willing to go that far and make the car look ridiculous :)

I would like brighter lights for safety but not willing to go that far and make the car look ridiculous :)

With LED bar lights, you won't necesarily need a nudge bar. Just get two and mount them on the bottom grill either side of the number plate.