The spark plug O-rings are leaking slightly and I was wondering whether this is urgent or I can delay it for a bit?

I only checked one spark plug hole and the oil basically collects at the top. All up it seems like about half a teaspoon though the other 5 may be worse as I didn't check.

Also, I read they should not be tightened much. How much should they be tightened by feel? Just as tight as I would tighten a screw with a screw driver, or do I need more force like from a 1/4" ratchet?

The leaky spark plug seals aren't too critical but I would put it high on your list of things to do because you dont want oil to be collecting around the spark plugs because as you remove it you dont want it seeping into the hole.

They should not be tightened too much because you dont want to snap them, I would suggest investing in a torque wrench, as 20-28 nm will suffice. As an idea though

Oil Sump Plug - 40nm
Wheel Nuts - 90-110nm
Brake Caliper Guide Bolts - front 30-40nm

Its not easy to judge but common sense plays a big part, if you dont trust yourself get a torque wrench.

Spark plugs = 25 Nm
Rocker cover 10 mm bolts = 3.5 Nm.

Anything else (or pure guesswork) won't do. If you don't have a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench, get one (eBay) or get a mechanic to do it - but only if he owns a torque wrench.

What do you actually want to tighten? The spark plug tube seals are retained by the rocker cover itself. If they leak, they need to be replaced.

Spark plugs = 25 Nm
Rocker cover 10 mm bolts = 3.5 Nm.

Anything else (or pure guesswork) won't do.

What do you actually want to tighten? The spark plug tube seals are retained by the rocker cover itself. If they leak, they need to be replaced.

Yep, Max is right. The plug tube seals simply 'sit' on top of the plug tubes, then as you torque the rocker cover bolts the under side of rocker cover is pressed down onto the seals.

Be gentle with those rocker cover bolts, they don't need much torque at all.

There are rocker cover seals available that have metal tubes in the holes where the bolts go through.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2653004&cc=1374397

Those are good to use if you don't have a torque wrench. Overtightening a new, normal rocker cover gasket though, will just distort the gasket or the rocker cover itself, leading to early failure and more leaks.

Anyhow, by the time the tube seals start to leak, the rocker cover gaskets will need doing too.

Thanks guys.

I meant the rocker cover bolts in terms of tightening.
And yes I was planning on doing o-rings and gasket on both banks.
Should I do plugs and leads too or if it runs fine leave them?

And what brand is good to get?
MaxMax are those for the 6G74 or just used as an example?

And what brand is good to get?
MaxMax are those for the 6G74 or just used as an example?

Yep, 6G74 - go to rockauto.com and look up Diamante 2001.

$35 + postage, at your front door within a week.
Minimum postage is $66, so i usually load up my order with other things - spark plugs, ancillary belts, air filter, etc.

If you just want the cover gaskets and tube seals, probably cheaper to buy them locally and get a torque wrench off eBay, I paid about $40 each for one 1/2 inch and one 1/4 inch drive torque wrench.

Are they better than the locally sold ACL brand?

Any torque wrench will do a decent job of torquing most of the upper end of a motor no worries.

Any torque wrench will do a decent job of torquing most of the upper end of a motor no worries.

Depends on the range the torque wrench covers. Generally 3.5 Nm is below the range of a 1/2 inch drive, but fine for a 1/4 inch torque wrench.

Depends on the range the torque wrench covers. Generally 3.5 Nm is below the range of a 1/2 inch drive, but fine for a 1/4 inch torque wrench.

Yes my mistake, make sure you check the range, if you can find a 3/8" drive that would be more versatile, im after one of these myself.

However I think you will only find something that does 10nm in a 1/4" drive, but id imagine if you bought a 3/8" drive that would give you enough of an idea how tight to do the bolts up. I pulled apart my rocker arms, shafts, rocker cover etc and put it all back and tightened without a torque wrench, I wouldnt recommend doing the rocker gear without but with some other stuff with the right checks there is place for some guess work if you ask me. (In prior to flaming)

There you go.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-8-INCH-DRIVE-CLICK-ADJUSTABLE-TORQUE-WRENCH-/320731840115?pt=AU_HandTools&hash=item4aad1b7e73



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-8-DR-DRIVE-INCH-LBS-POUND-MICROMETER-CLICKER-TORK-TORQ-TORQUE-WRENCH-TOOL-/250992784189?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7055f33d

I sell acl kits and provided you reshape the rocker covers you will have no issues

Paying $66postage and stocking up on other parts to save $3 on acl is simply insane

I sell acl kits and provided you reshape the rocker covers you will have no issues

Paying $66postage and stocking up on other parts to save $3 on acl is simply insane

Yep, I got mine (ACL) from Mal at a good price, and much quicker than Rock Auto.

With the 'reshaping the rocker covers', I had to dig out some bits of the old gaskets coz they had burnt on, which meant that I widened the channel they fit in just a little.

A gentle squeeze with some pliers, wrapped in cloth, closed them back up again to the correct size.

Yep, it would be stupid to order just one thing from Rockauto.
I usually order when I have several things I need.

One of my orders:
Fuel/Air : Air Filter FRAM
Ignition : 8 Spark Plugs NGK BKR5EGP
Belt Drive : DAYCO 4PVK0900 P.S. & Tens.
DAYCO 6PVK1200 Alt., Comp. & Idler

What exactly does "reshaping the rocker cover" entail?

Warren and Brown deflecting 3/8 drive Tension wrenches have a torque range of 5-120 nm.

round the 250 dollar mark but a good chance you can find one a little cheaper!

Just looked them up, sounds good. Bit of an overkill for the home mechanic, but still . . . wouldn't mind one!

Reshaping is simple, when you tighten down the cover the gasket will push into the gap between the outer and inner sheet metal, from inside you tap down the cover so as to ensure that the gap is closed up, simple terms, the gasket should be a snug fit in the cover with no risk of it wanting to fall out when inverted. This helps to ensure that you have a good seal and the gasket is not receding into the cover

A point to consider when installing the new seals:

Recently, I had a disaster with my Pajero, and because of health problems could not do the repairs myself. The "mechanic" who di the job stuffed it up completely and left a bit inside the intake manifold, resulting in another piston being damaged as well as the original piston. I got a friend to come from a long way away to pull the engine and do the job properly. We rebuilt the engine with new pistons. rings bearings etc even though the originals were re-useable.

When the engine was stripped again, the "mechanic" had put silicone on every joint - heaps of it. This included the new rocker cover gaskets and also the spark plug seals. We pulled the plugs, and in a total of 2 km of driving, 3 of the 6 plugs had oil in the tubes, even though everything was new. Moral of teh story - don't gunk up the new seals with silicone - let them work as originally designed to.

Moral of teh story - don't gunk up the new seals with silicone - let them work as originally designed to.

Maybe its also time to reconsider who you let work on your car.. they sound like pretty serious errors.

The manual states very clearly which bits need sealant, and specifies which sealant to use. Helps to follow these hints, as well as which bolts need to be installed dry or oiled.
Of course, if you are used to working on old Commodores where silastic is the only way to keep oil in . . . . lol

Are there any brand of gaskets that don't require reshaping of the rocker covers that can be found in Australia?

Are there any brand of gaskets that don't require reshaping of the rocker covers that can be found in Australia?

The covers have a groove in them where the gasket sits. If the bolts have been overtightened, the groove tends to open up. Easy to find where, just clean the groove out, put the new gasket in. If the gasket droops out at any one spot, that spot needs a bit of closing up. Makes more sense when you actually do this.

I think I understand what you mean. Is this what people refer to as a deformed rocker cover on the forums?
Are the ACL gaskets thinner and require "reshaping"?
If I were to use genuine Mitsubishi gaskets would I need to reshape the rocker cover?

I think I understand what you mean.

Good!

Is this what people refer to as a deformed rocker cover on the forums?

Yes!

Are the ACL gaskets thinner and require "reshaping"?

No.

If I were to use genuine Mitsubishi gaskets would I need to reshape the rocker cover?

Yes.



See above. Makes more sense when you actually do this.

I assume the inner skin is much more pliable and is easy to reshape and warping the outer skin isn't a high risk?
I've changed these gaskets on a Magna before but never reshaped the rocker cover. The car didn't stay on the road for much longer than that though and don't know if it would have caused an issue in time.

I assume the inner skin is much more pliable and is easy to reshape and warping the outer skin isn't a high risk?
I've changed these gaskets on a Magna before but never reshaped the rocker cover. The car didn't stay on the road for much longer than that though and don't know if it would have caused an issue in time.

The inner and outer parts of the rocker cover gasket "groove" or channel are the same metal. As far as I can see the whole rocker cover is a single casting. Going by memory the thickness of the metal is about .4mm.

You only need to reshape/close up the channel if it's been widened that much that the gasket starts to fall out when you hold the rocker cover up in the air 'right way up'.

I found that the new gasket for the front cover didn't sit as far down in the groove/channel as the rear gasket, and I have no idea why. Maybe the depth of the channel is different?

Time for Mal to chime in now and give us the good oil!

I just called a local car part supplier and told me he can get me "Thermoseal" gaskets for $29 each which seemed well priced.
Anyone heard of this brand and whether it's good?
Or is it best to go for either OEM or ACL etc?

Is there a difference between brands or are they all the same?

Just a couple of things that may help somebody. Did my rocker covers today. Hope they're ok... Anyways, gasket sets x2 from Supercheap $61 (for two) including plug seals "Pro-Torque" p/n GVC023. Also, on torque wrenches. Just bought 2 on ebay - lots of big ones, paid $36 (with current discount) for this (10-210Nm), free delivery from http://myworld.ebay.com.au/dealsdirect?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:AU:1181, but also found a 2-24Nm 1/4 drive for $45 (free delivery) from http://myworld.ebay.com.au/cyclingdeal?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 That's 2-210Nm for under a hundy :)

Also, meant to ask. Plug leads would not seat properly. The rear ones especially seem swollen around where they fit the rocker cover top. Unfortunately I didn't have spares but will probably order from rockauto (thanks for that tip Mad). Is this common or should I be looking for something else as the cause? Thanks in advance.

Also, meant to ask. Plug leads would not seat properly.

They normally need a bit of a hefty push. If they were oily, they may have swollen up a bit. If you can still get to them, wipe them with petrol or mineral turps a few times, it might shrink them a bit. They are meant to be tight, they form a seal at the top of the tube to stop oil from leaking down if the tube seals start to leak.

Looks like we got matching torque wrench sets!
HINT: Don't use then to loosen nuts, they can sometimes be a lot tighter than the specified torque, always use a socket and handle to start nuts and bolts off, can then use the ratchet in the torque wrench to undo the rest of the way. Learnt the hard way, I'm on my second 1/2 inch wrench.