a few questions, does anyone know where to get them for a 6g74? are they the same as 6g72,s? what is a good price to pay for em? answer any of them that u can. online or over the counter. cheers.

I priced them up at at 4-5 places and 2 wanted $20 EACH, thats far too much, one of those places was Autobarn, then I tried one local and they were about $12 Each, which was better but I managed to get them for about $8 Each, thats a good price.

Some of the shops I tried were

Autobarn
Sprint Autoparts
Autopro (my local one wanted $20 each, another autopro known as "Outbound Auto Parts" let them go for $8, maybe they would post them, they are in Brighton South Australia if you wanted to call them)

I got mine for a 3L not sure if the 3.5 uses the same though.

I priced them up at at 4-5 places and 2 wanted $20 EACH, thats far too much, one of those places was Autobarn, then I tried one local and they were about $12 Each, which was better but I managed to get them for about $8 Each, thats a good price.

Some of the shops I tried were

Autobarn
Sprint Autoparts
Autopro (my local one wanted $20 each, another autopro known as "Outbound Auto Parts" let them go for $8, maybe they would post them, they are in Brighton South Australia if you wanted to call them)

I got mine for a 3L not sure if the 3.5 uses the same though.

thanx mate i'll do a search for that outbound place now. did u look at prices online?

No I try not to deal online I peter buying locally.

I thought you could clean out the lash adjusters in petrol (as per the workshop manual) and would not need to replace?

I thought you could clean out the lash adjusters in petrol (as per the workshop manual) and would not need to replace?

Petrol? Diesel!
Good point though, better to remove all, test them out, and just replace those that have seized permanently, or the ball/spring inside have failed.
I bought a set of 12 for the old second gen V6, replaced the lot but when I tested them, only 2 had problems.

I thought you could clean out the lash adjusters in petrol (as per the workshop manual) and would not need to replace?

sounds good to me but i wouldnt mind having a few spare just incase something happens to one.

sounds good to me but i wouldnt mind having a few spare just incase something happens to one.

Pick up a handful from a wreckers?

and i have 2 cars to do a tj and a tw, the tj has developed a quiet heavy top end rattle when you give it a boot full so im hoping one of them is stuffed otherwise i dont know what it could be. any thoughts on that and how successful is the cleaning method as far as geting rid of the light warm engine tap.

Pick up a handful from a wreckers?

yer good idea, it just seamed that everyone was replacing them so i thought i would too and i wouldn't mind feeling the pressure difference between a new and used one.

If you want to clean them use diesel if they are noisy your best off cleaning the arms and rails too. Sometimes you can do nothing to fix noisy lifters so you replace them.

If you want to clean them use diesel if they are noisy your best off cleaning the arms and rails too. Sometimes you can do nothing to fix noisy lifters so you replace them.

how do u know when there stuffed?

They dont stop depressing or depress excessively even when full of oil/diesel. So you put something in the oil holes of the adjuster to check for blocks, then the adjuster can actually be squeezed/compressed, if they will not stop once full of oil they are no good, and most probably will be noisy. There can be a little bit of travel but not a lot, this is where commonsense comes into play.

General process to renewing the adjusters or cleaning the old ones will be removing the rocker arms, the shafts and the adjusters, because if they is a block in the shaft or arms then the adjuster will suffer regardless. Soak all of these in diesel fuel for a while then you can use pipe cleaners to clean inside the shaft and the arms. The adjusters will just need to be pumped while submerged in either diesel or sewing machine oil, but diesel is a better cleaner too.

They dont stop depressing or depress excessively even when full of oil/diesel. So you put something in the oil holes of the adjuster to check for blocks, then the adjuster can actually be squeezed/compressed, if they will not stop once full of oil they are no good, and most probably will be noisy. There can be a little bit of travel but not a lot, this is where commonsense comes into play.

General process to renewing the adjusters or cleaning the old ones will be removing the rocker arms, the shafts and the adjusters, because if they is a block in the shaft or arms then the adjuster will suffer regardless. Soak all of these in diesel fuel for a while then you can use pipe cleaners to clean inside the shaft and the arms. The adjusters will just need to be pumped while submerged in either diesel or sewing machine oil, but diesel is a better cleaner too.

good info thanx

I pulled mine out of my 3.5 when looking for a noise. I dropped one and broke it so went down to Bursons, he came out with ones that were way too big, then he had another look and got the right ones (I think he had them in the spot where the 3.0 ones were meant to be). I can't remember the price but it was less than $8 each, 2 years ago.

You need to use 3 baths of diesel, one to clean the outside, another for flushing the old oil out from inside and the third for filling and getting the air out. There is a procedure in the FSM for checking them.

I pulled mine out of my 3.5 when looking for a noise. I dropped one and broke it so went down to Bursons, he came out with ones that were way too big, then he had another look and got the right ones (I think he had them in the spot where the 3.0 ones were meant to be). I can't remember the price but it was less than $8 each, 2 years ago.

You need to use 3 baths of diesel, one to clean the outside, another for flushing the old oil out from inside and the third for filling and getting the air out. There is a procedure in the FSM for checking them.

did it fix your warm engine taping

did it fix your warm engine taping

No, it made it worse so I had to check them again to get all the air out. I still have a noise which goes away when the cylinder is disabled by pulling the injector plug. I think it is a big end bearing or gudgen pin.

Cleaning lifters is a waste of time. The problem returns a few months later. You can get lifters through any parts store that stock the nason brand. They are like 6 bucks each.

6G74 uses a longer lifter than the type found in evos, ftos, lancers etc. They look the same but very different.