Hi guys,

My rear window creaks when I get into driveways and I think also around corners.
I did a search and it seems the KJ has the common issue of the rear window seal going bad.
Mine has flaked as well (which seems like a sign).

What would my best course of action be at this stage?
Is the window glued in at all or is it just a seal holding it in that can be replaced?

Any info is appreciated

Yeah I daresay I have the same problem.

Any info on it?
It seems to be a common fault and is can lead to rain leaking in too I believe.
I assume best bet is to take it to a windscreen specialist?

No, until you said this it hadn't clicked that it was my window that was doing it. There has been a creak from back there when I take hard angles on driveways (Which is all the time because coilovers) but it doesn't do it in corners, although again, coilovers, I wouldn't have as much movement through corners. I hadn't been bothered to track it down but what you're describing right down to the flaking seal (Definitely a very common TJ/KJ problem, I would say literally all the ones I have seen that haven't had the seal replaced are flaking, mine had that problem at the 100k mark) I have.

I don't have the answer, just the same question haha.

Get replacement from the TL/W series. Apparently the rubber trim is ever so slightly on the small side and over time, causes issues. I am pretty sure that any glazier will be able to swap it if you find one from the wreckers.

If it is really the glass that is creaking, and not just some plastic trim in that area, it is because the glass adhesive has let go of the body work. Every time it creaks it is letting go more, only a matter of time before water gets in and rust starts.

Try pushing on the inside of the glass to see where the movement occurs.

Trims of this type are also found on the wagon rear gate glass, the trim is placed around the glass before the glass is glued into place in the factory and helps to locate the glass correctly in the opening.

Getting a good one intact from the wreckers is impossible and a waste of time, you really need a new one and the glass taken out of the opening for it to be retrimmed and reglued.

(Someone who has actually done this can give more details or tell if my info is total bull. lol )

Yeah, do a search, I remember there were posts on it from last year or the year before when quite a lot of people starting getting issues with their rear windows.

If I buy a rear window seal kit from Mitsubishi, are they all the "updated" TL/W version if anyone knows?
And approximate price?

EDIT:
Been quoted $150 for labor alone, obviously + the seal kit

$150 for a remove and replace for a rear screen sounds about right.

Better check with Mitsu to see if the trim is available.

I am sure it'd be available but at what cost...
I will likely find out tomorrow

Can you do me a big, big favour when you ask and enquire what it would cost on top to get a whole new window as well, with the third brake light cut out and brake light? I assume it's very exxy but I am contemplating it to avoid having a shitty aftermarket third brake light sitting on my parcel shelf. If this will fix that creak and my flaky trim too, it's probably worth it unless the price is astronomical.

Ok Jakey will do.
However why would you buy these items new and OEM when you could either go to a wrecker or get the window from a windscreen specialist place for a quarter the price?

Front screen is $250 or so, rear might be the same.

As for the creak . . . top bushes of the rear suspension are close by. Might be them - spray some lubricant on both sides and see if the creak goes away. Be a pity to replace the rear screen and find the creak still there. lol

Mine has been doing it for 9 years.. It hasnt leaked yet so i dont see that being an issue. With the coilovers the whole car makes noises when enter driveways so just add it to the list. i heard TL rubber fixes it so thats an option. To replace rubber, screen has so come out and labour for that will be $150ish.. Wouldnt expect it for much cheaper unless they dont do a good job. Just put up with the noise till it becomes an issue like leaking.

Ok Jakey will do.
However why would you buy these items new and OEM when you could either go to a wrecker or get the window from a windscreen specialist place for a quarter the price?

I could I guess, but I need the entire light assembly as well. It's because I removed the GTV/VR-X wing, GTV's never had high mount lights.

I could I guess, but I need the entire light assembly as well. It's because I removed the GTV/VR-X wing, GTV's never had high mount lights.

Why not fit a TF sports parcel shelf with a low brake light rather than trying to get it up high

the light assebly can be removed and the base then removed from the glass with heat gun. once the new window is in place, fit the bade on the light, dab some high temp silicone and fit onto window and then hold it up over the weekend.

Front screen is $250 or so, rear might be the same.

As for the creak . . . top bushes of the rear suspension are close by. Might be them - spray some lubricant on both sides and see if the creak goes away. Be a pity to replace the rear screen and find the creak still there. lol
Who does front screens for $250? Are they supposed to be of decent quality? National Windscreens dont charge over $200, though our camper ( a lot of 100kmh driving) does suffer from serious sand blasting after only 3 years! A customer needed a rear recently and it was $280.
I do share your sentiments... I would cry putting an aftermarket windscreen on and still having the problem! Really need to get a little person to sit on your parcel shelf! :P

Front screen is $250 or so, rear might be the same.

As for the creak . . . top bushes of the rear suspension are close by. Might be them - spray some lubricant on both sides and see if the creak goes away. Be a pity to replace the rear screen and find the creak still there. lol

You mean take the parcel shelf off and spray the top mounts?

Why not fit a TF sports parcel shelf with a low brake light rather than trying to get it up high

Because they look terrible.

You mean take the parcel shelf off and spray the top mounts?

Yes, I meant the top of the rear shock absorbers. Haven't looked at the easiest way to get to them though.

Ok will check them out.
Could there be any other place of creaking from the rear?
To me it sounds like it is coming from higher up (ie, window) rather than the suspension but I guess it could be the top mounts.

Ok will check them out.
Could there be any other place of creaking from the rear?
To me it sounds like it is coming from higher up (ie, window) rather than the suspension but I guess it could be the top mounts.

Inside a big metal can like a car, sound tends to travel. I had a squeak over my right shoulder, suspected the rear screen - turned out to be the seat belt upper mount next to my right ear. lol

I have noticed that if the car is left in the rain and I drive it there is no creaking.
I assume this should mean that water is getting somewhere between the window and frame and lubricates it enough to stop creaking?
Essentially confirming it is the rear window that is creaking after all?

Did anything come of this?

I just got some price quotes but never went ahead with anything.
I was hoping someone would give a more certain answer.

The seal from Mitsubishi is $80, and it's $150 for labor to swap it.
However there is a chance the window will break, and that bumps the price up by $100 for the window + it's tinted so whatever the cost of tinting it.
Potentially around $400 all up, or as little as $230 to do it.

The issue is that I am not certain that it is the seal. If I was sure the $230 would fix it, I'd do it

Hmm, okay cheers man. I may go this route but replace my window with the high mount brake light one. Mine is extremely creaky/chattery now, I am fairly confident it would be the window.

I am fairly certain too but not quite sure.
As for the window, it will cost over $1,000 from Mitsubishi, but the ones form windscreen specialists is only about $100 + fitting

Yeah that's alright, as long as the demister works and it has the cutout to accept the OEM brake light properly? I've never dealt with these replacements before, I assume it's pretty much a replica of the OEM one?

They should have everything as per stock.
The only difference is that they won't have the Mitsubishi writing so someone who knows will be able to tell that the window has been replaced

I love my OEM but I'm not gonna pay over $800 for a glass logo heh.

Sounds like you guys are convinced it is the glass that is creaking, and plan to spend money on it.

Can I make a suggestion? (Well, I'm going to anyway. lol) Get on the back seat, and push the glass around the edges. If the screen is loose you will find movement in it, especially in the corners. If you get no movement, look elsewhere for your creaks.

MadMax, I did that but there was no sound/movement.
However the windscreen specialist was pushing down on the seal from the outside and one of the corners made a lot of noise especially inside the car.
Added with the fact that once the car is under the rain or I wash it the sound goes away until it dries, I think it must be related to the rear window moving around.
Like I said though I am not 100% certain, though I assume eventually unless I find another solution I will end up changing the seal and hope that it is the culprit

Before dropping money I'd be certain but I am already certain enough to start investigating it and getting quotes at least.

MadMax,windscreen specialist was pushing down on the seal from the outside and one of the corners made a lot of noise especially inside the car.

Yes, I've heard that noise too. When the screen came out the source of the noise was obvious - lots of rust. I hope that it is not the case with your car.
Normally, the glass sits on a layer of rubber, and no way it will make any noise if the glass moves slightly because it has let go of the rubber. So, open it up and take it from there.

Any way to tell if there is rust without removing anything?

The sound comes from the bottom passenger corner, and it sounds like rubber rubbing basically, but the sound is almost amplified on the inside

Any way to tell if there is rust without removing anything?


Get inside the boot and look at the metal nearest the windscreen corner. If it looks bubbled, it may be rust. Jab it with a screwdriver and see how it reacts.