Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum but have had a 1990 Magna TP wagon for many years but recently the carby starting playing up. It started running rough and wouldn't idle and sounded like it was flooding. I rebuild the carby but no change!!
I took the carby off again and reset the float but still no change but I did notice that the manifold was full of petrol, which would explain why it wont restart unless you crank it over for quite some time with the foot flat to the floor.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers, Robbie

Hi Robbie,
We've been having extensive discussions here about similar problems with Rumpfy's TP and my own. Due to this happening at the same time as other problems, unfortunately our conversations are spread over many posts.

Try loosening the fuel tank filler cap as a temporary measure and see whether that reduces or eliminates the problem. If so, it is probably the same issue as we had, pressure build-up in the tank. We haven't totally nailed the culprit yet but in my opinion it is most likely due to a faulty or contaminated two-way valve in the vent line from the tank to the charcoal canister. Have a look at this thread for a start: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101236

regards,
Coldamus

Thanks for the reply Coldamus.
I will try loosening the fuel tank cap and see what happens.
Cheers,
Robbie

Hi Coldamus,
Nope, that didn't work. Just took it for a run and it was running very rough at idle. Turned it off and looked in the carby, there is heaps of fuel sitting on the secondary butterfly and seems to be running in there from somewhere!!
So much fuel sometimes it wont idle at all and that's with the tank fuel cap off.
I would change the carby but can't get one over here!!
Cheers,
Robbie

SOunds like you may have put something back wrong when you rebuilt it.
Fuel only flows to the secondary when the butterfly opens and venturi sucks it in.
There are some check balls in there did you get them all back in the correct places? You in Nz? Vee

Hi Vee, it was doing it before I took it apart, that's why I took it apart and put a new kit in it, so I don't think that's the problem. There's fuel running into both main jets when turned off!
I've just taken it apart again for the third time and noticed the float has a crack in it!! Do you think if the bowl was over full the fuel would flow through the main jets?
Cheers, Robbie
PS, yes in NZ

Robbie,

It can't just be pressure from the tank then. The only other cause I can think of is the float, needle and seat. You said that you reset the float level. Are you sure the float, needle and seat were properly in place when you re-assembled the carby. I know I had doubts about mine on a couple of occasions. In particular, the little rubber sealing ring doesn't seem to locate very positively.

I don't think it will be much help but the thread about my carby problems is here. There's a lot of rambling discussion in it. Eventually I replaced the valve, needle and seat with an aftermarket one: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98568

Edit. I'm slow at typing and had some interruptions, so missed Vee's post and your reply. If the float is cracked, that is almost certain to be the problem.

regards,
Coldamus

Definitely. If the float doesn't float, petrol will come out of the main jets, and a few other jets too.
Is it metal? A soldering iron will fix it. Plastic floats . . . . mmm . . . soldering iron again? Maybe someone has a spare?

Have had the opposite problem, float needle getting stuck in the up position - car doesn't run too well like that. lol

It's Plastic MadMax.

Soldering wouldn't melt it,so put some CA clue on it but I don't think that will last. I don't think it's hollow and seems like a hard surface over some-kind of foam but not sure. Does anyone know what it's made of?
Set the float much lower, will see if it still floods when I put it back on tomorrow.
Does anyone have a diagram of the vac lines?
Thanks for you help guys.
Cheers,
Robbie

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40090&page=3 post 23

It's probably foam with a hard cover over it. Crack in the outside probably means the inside is saturated with fuel. Perhaps leave it in the Sun for a while to dry out, them try superglue to seal it?
I know they are as light as anything, if yours feels heavy it probably is the foam saturated with fuel.

Robbie,

In particular, the little rubber sealing ring doesn't seem to locate very positively.
Coldamus
Do you mean the sealing ring around the float unit assembly or as a needle seat? The needle seat just seems to seat on the plastic body.

Did you end up fixing the flooding by changing the bits?
Cheers, Robbie

Hi Robbie,
Rumpfy here. Coldy and I are trying desperately to run down all the TP carby magna mysteries.
From memory the float is made of polyethylene and the ONLY way to seal this is to weld another bit of poly on to it. The black containers used for oil etc are usually HD Polyethylene, so some of the material is OK for use a s a welding material. I use a hot air gun and a small flat blade screwdriver to heat up the poly and get the screwdriver hot so I can paste and smear the poly material over the hole to seal it. Develop your technique on a bit of scrap first.
The float MUST be empty.

I also had float trouble but this was caused by the needle sticking in its socket. You can see the shiny rubbing marks on the needle valve IF its sticking/rubbing. Use a file to clean up the needle valve a bit.

Do you mean the sealing ring around the float unit assembly or as a needle seat? The needle seat just seems to seat on the plastic body. I meant the washer and sealing ring that go on the top of the needle and seat assembly where it plugs into the brass insert in the top half of the carby. Yes, the seat is just a hole with conical top machined into the plastic body.


Did you end up fixing the flooding by changing the bits?
Yes, but I wasn't impressed with the aftermarket float, needle and seat. It solved the bad flooding I was having but I still don't think the needle seats properly every time. If I leave the car unused for a few days, sometimes it seems flooded at start up. If I start it up every day or two, it seems ok. I've been contemplating putting the original float, needle and seat back in. I don't think there was anything wrong with them - just not fitted properly the previous time.

Thanks guys. Is it possible to buy a new float and needle assembly?
Cheers,
Robbie

Thanks guys. Is it possible to buy a new float and needle assembly?

The place that I bought my aftermarket one from is still listing them on eBay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MIKUNI-FLOAT-NEEDLE-SEAT-ASSY-MITSUBISHI-L300-MAGNA-PAJERO-TRITON-NIMBUS-87-00-/190737039658?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c68d0412a

Not sure whether they ship to NZ. Mistubishi here in Aus no longer keep 1st Gen or 2nd Gen parts but the above listing indicates the same part was used in the L300 van, Starwagon, Nimbus and Triton etc., so that widens the range you might be able to get from wreckers.

Aus no longer keep 1st Gen or 2nd Gen parts
Depends what you want as some stuff they do have. I rang for an oil pump and handbrake cables last year and they were available.

Robbie the carby was used on other model mitsi cars so should be able to track float down at wreckers. They will want you to buy the whole carby usually.
Also early model Mazda B2600 have the mitsubishi 4g54 motor as well. There was a couple of first gen at a couple of the wreckers in Palmerston North recently.Goodluck Vee

Thanks Guys. Put the carby back on this arvo and it ran without the flooding problem. Took it up the road for a run but when I got back it was flooding again. Petrol poring in on both main jets. F$^#^##^##K!!!!
So, I'd say it's a combination of the float and needle!!
Robbie

Well may you swear . . . exceedingly frustrating.
Sounds like you need a new float, needle and seat to permanently solve this problem.

I will try and get one on EBay but forgot my user name! Waiting for them to get back to me with my user name.
It's been a fantastic wagon and I really have done much work on it over the last 16 years and it's done nearly 380000km and still on the original motor. Has got a new head though, which I put on many years ago because of corrosion. It's still in good nic and I think it's worth keeping for a while.
Cheers, Robbie

They are not cheap by the time you add in postage to NZ and exchange rate etc.
See if this is like yours as been a while since i took a carby out of one. I do have two carbies down home but will not be back there for a while.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MIKUNI-FLOAT-NEEDLE-SEAT-ASSY-MITSUBISHI-L300-MAGNA-PAJERO-TRITON-NIMBUS-87-00-/190737039658?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c68d0412a#ht_3149wt_758

Have you tried Mitsi wreck Nz?? http://www.mitsispares.co.nz/ Also
http://www.partsconnection.co.nz/member_companies/kempys.html

Yep that one on ebay is the same. The problem is I use the car all the time and I need to get it going or should I say running better.
I tried the wreckers and they all said the didn't have a carby!! Hard to believe though as there are a hell of a lot of them over here!
Not sure whether I tried them and will ring them tomorrow.

Hi Guys, I've found a carby but it has a few more wires, like to the choke and another set of wires going into the top of carb body. Do you think it would work?:confused:

I've ordered it so lets hope I can rewire it so works, can't be that hard when I find out what the other wires are for!!:think:

hard to say if it will work. Have they said what it came off as there were Gen 1 imports from Japan named Sigma still which we stopped using when Magna took over from the old Sigmas and i think Eterna in the late 80's. The biggest thing is if yours is Auto you need the tps on it for the trans ECU to get change signals. If yours is manual this is not a problem.
Also possibly got an electric choke or has it got the water pipe connections on it like the Magna??
I wonder why Nz had V6 gen 1 V3000 and ozzy did not???? Vee
Ps the jap imports had 2.0litre motors and the odd 1.8 i think as well. Also a diesel not relevant here but not many know that.

If the carby was on trademe send a link if there was a pic? Vee

Hi Vee,
Here are some pics sent to me today. Yes it's Auto but which part is the tps?!!!! Lost me there but that might explain something.
When it was playing up really bad it was jumping into neutral if I hit the accelerator hard. My carby doesn't have the wires on the right on image 1 or the choke like in image 3.

http://www.wildwoodgallery.co.nz/mitsi/1.jpghttp://www.wildwoodgallery.co.nz/mitsi/2.jpghttp://www.wildwoodgallery.co.nz/mitsi/3.jpg

In the first pic, the large round black plastic connector at top right is the connector for the tps. In the last pic, that same connector is just out of sight at top left but you can see the sheathed wiring from it curving down to the bottom left where the individual red and black wires from it enter the tps. I think there's a green wire there too. The tps is basically a variable resistor (or potentiometer). It is mounted on the throttle shaft at the opposite end to the throttle cable lever.

That carby looks as if it is based on the same body but has an electric choke instead of the wax pellet/mechanical one. I'm guessing the wires at bottom right in pic 1 go to the electric choke on the other side.

Don't you just need the float, needle and seat? They are probably the same, although it would be a pity to have to buy a whole carby just to get those parts.

For comparison, here's a pic of mine. This is from the throttle cable side (which would correspond to your second pic and would be on the left in your top pic. Please ignore the red arrow. I used the same pic in another post to show where the vacuum hose from the secondary diaphragm attaches to the carby.

http://users.tpg.com.au/acheson1/images/carb1.jpg

Thanks Coldamus, I was thinking of putting the whole carby on because I'm sick of taking it apart and a needle and float ste was coing to cost more than a secondhand carby. What do you think the wires in picture 1, on the top right of the carb body are for?
Your cardy is the same as mine.
Thanks again for all the help.
Robbie

Thanks Coldamus, I was thinking of putting the whole carby on because I'm sick of taking it apart and a needle and float ste was coing to cost more than a secondhand carby.

I know what you mean. I took mine off again yesterday and put the original float, needle and seat back in but with a fresh sealing ring and washer. I think that was all that was wrong with them in the first place. This would be at least the eighth time I've dismantled the carby. All of this started because of carbon granules getting in the carby from the charcoal canister. Before that, it used to run perfectly.


What do you think the wires in picture 1, on the top right of the carb body are for?

One set is for the fuel cut-off solenoid, same as on our carbies. You can see where that goes in your third pic. (the coloured wires towards top right) I'm not sure about the rest without a higher res pic. It's hard to tell which are wires and which are vacuum hoses. Good luck with it. It should work if you can figure out how to connect the electric choke.

Hi Coldamus, Here is a larger pic showing those yellow and red wires.
http://www.wildwoodgallery.co.nz/mitsi/1b.jpg

Ok, thanks. I can see the wires clearly now - not that it helps because I have no idea what they are for. That's over where the bowl is or just to the side of it. Perhaps some sort of sensor. Did they say what model of car it is off. There's going to be a lot of guesswork unless we can dig up a workshop or service manual.

I've got the secondhand carby now so I will see where the wires go. They thought it was off a magna and the plug top right is the same by the look of it.

Robbie,

Some time ago, I downloaded engine manuals for most of the Mitsubishi engines of the 1990's. They aren't a lot of help as they describe how to dismantle and re-assemble things but don't explain what they do or how they work. A few of the pdfs cover the carbies and emission systems. The one that most resembles yours is described as "electronic control type carburettor". I think the wires you were asking about go to something called a "feedback solenoid valve". An interesting point is that the automatic choke is a bi-metal type, so it may still operate without electrical connections. My guess is that the electrical connections from it provide feedback about its current position.

Anyway, I have uploaded that pdf to my website and you can download it from there. It is only about 600kb. I will only leave it there for a couple of days or until you confirm you've got it. This is the link: http://users.tpg.com.au/acheson1/images/13C.pdf

regards,
Coldamus

Thanks Coldamus, Well it's on and running even without all those wires!!! The only plug that fitted was the round one, so I plugged that one in. I'll play around with the others tomorrow but she runs really smooth now and no miss. I think it needs the big wire to the choke to hold it open because when I got back the choke was closed even though it was warm.
It's great to finally have a win as I have spent heaps on the other carby!!!
Cheers and time to have a beer!!:beer:

That's good news.

Got the PDF, thanks heaps Coldamus. It will help as this carby has a 6 pin plug.
Cheers, Robbie

After further reading, it seems bi-metal chokes often have an electric heating element that causes the bi-metallic strip to expand and turn off the choke, so that wire probably goes to 12 volts. I can't say whether this applies to Mitsubishi but on other makes it is often connected direct to the alternator. That would make sense because then voltage would only be applied when the engine is running. Anyway, you are well ahead of me. Let us know how it all goes.

Looks very much like a carby off a mid 90's auto mitsubishi L300 i rebuilt a few years ago. They had a 4g63 i think it was 2.0 litre.
Hows the Magna for power it might have a smaller throat this carby? Did you notice and markings on it before you put it on?
Connect the choke to 12 it should do the trick and as long as the auto changes correctly with the TPS connection wired to yours it will be fine.
Make sure it kicks down etc.
Just make sure you get the idle cutoff connected to avoid running on when you switch off.
Will be interesting if the carby is slightly smaller if you get better economy than the standard Magna carby. Vee

Hi Vee, The throat size seems to be the same and matched the gasket perfectly. Sorry I didn't see any numbers but will see if I can find them with out taking it off!! I'll sort the idle cut off and find somewhere to connect the choke wire, it's a heavy wire and obviously needs quite a bit of current.
Thanks Guys.
Cheers,
Robbie

You are going to laugh at this one!!! lol Had to take the cardy off again!! :doh: Coolant leaking out at the base of the carb, took it off and I had the gasket upside down, fixed now though.
Carb throats are the same size as the old one. I will work out what the numbers on the carby are (very hard to read) and get back to you guys. It's running great and I hooked up all the wires including the choke. the only I didn't are the ones on top of the body.
Cheers,
Robbie

The numbers are very hard to read because they are very faded. this is a close as I can get them but I don't think all the numbers are correct.
32-35DID
E1-32
8XODN

I do have another problem with the transmission but I'll start another thread.
Cheers,
Robbie

This is all quite interesting.
New Zealand doesnt have the Australian design rules as requirements and there may be be some minor differences. NZ has a lot of 'Jap standards' vehicles directly imported.
In RB's top left picture, the Round black connector shown on the top RHS is the 'Throttle Position Sensor'(TPS auto only). This same thing is seen on the bottom LHS picture on the bottom LHS of the pic. There is a small black sheathed cable running to the bottom of the carby. to the small blck round unit. This is all just next to the accelerator pump lever.
On the bottom left hand picture it looks like a red and a green wire.. These wires connect to the 'Fuel Cut Solenoid' by the look of it.
The auto choke on the NZ carby looks like it probably has a bimetallic strip to activate the auto choke function. On Coldys pic, the green pinion is part of the auto choke on the aussie models. The aussie models have the cooling water fed through the two hoses with the hose clamps. My guess is that the auto choke function on the NZ model is somehow operated from possibly a vacuum switch connected to a thermal valve. When the thermal valves indicate the cooling water is up to a certain temperature, the auto choke is 'activated' by an electric contact. In the top left hand picture, there appears to be an 'electric plug' at the bottom RHS of the carby. The wires to this plug appear to be spirally wrapped with tape. If I am right, the electric choke system just needs to be connected to a 12 volt connection. The large round shape of the electric choke seems to me to be consistent with a spiral bimetallic spring element.
Hope this helps,
rumpfy
ps; sorry I put this up after reading only up to Page 3

32-35DID

32 is the primary size and 35 secondary i think from memory.

MIKUNI-SOLEX Carburetor Chrysler and Mitsubishi 32-35-DID TA does mitsubishi 81-86 2.0 & 2.6 motors.

Yours might even be off one fo the last model Mitsubishi Sigmas just before they brought out the Magna. Vee

You also have to remember that the Jap imports to Nz did not have the 2.6 engine they had the Sirius motors with belt driven cam.
There was a rare 147kw turbo petrol model as well.

Heres a rare one: Oil Burner..........Turbo as well.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mitsubishi/auction-628199529.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used...-628199529.htm
i wont it. and the cortina behind it
after reading though is thread i have to ask myself why did i buy a carby gen1. lol