Hey guys

I have recentley purchased a $1300 97 verada and the oem setup is utter shite... Having said that I have been kinda spoilt, as my last car had a neat $10k FHRX installed DLS system and my bmw has the premium oem audio which for an oem system isnt too bad.

So since my verada is just a daily runabout, and that being this old i dont plan to keep it forever so a $1-2K setup is totally out of the ballpark i want to spend as little as possible (budgeting around $500 in total) yet not using rubbish no name equipment.

I'm more of an 'easy listener' more so then a cranker after sheer SPL, so I'm not after a crazy booming setup just something tight & clear more so then loud and boomy.

Since the budget is tight I wish to DIY and keep costs to a minimum, so I have started scoping out used gear on ebay/gumtree and have the following options:

So far I have picked up a BNIB pioneer deh2050 deck for $50 (it only has 1 preout for a sub) :(

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSlzyYwB14CBCCJPiD-4ZmI76hwUmRggBc7L9036zzRjGeY5heOLA

http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/archive/DEH-2050MPG/page.html

It's a older model (around the 2008 vintage) but it has an aux in for my ipod etc and i have had around 4 pioneer decks in my older previous cars with no issues.

I'm hoping to spend another $300-400 on some 6.5" splits and a used 12" sub/amp combo.

At this stage its going to be:

Amp:

300W RMS @ 4 ohm x 1ch amps used cant seem to be had for under $100 used, so i thought i might as well by new?

new Jaycar AA0452 $169 500W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm bridged (i believe)
new kenwood kac8105D $189 300W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm
new kenwood kacm846 $155 180W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm & 2 x 60W RMS @ 4ohm

low end splits run off H/U

Splits: 6.5" mtx thunder 6000 $100

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sydney-region/audio-gps-car-alarms/mtx-thunder-6000-car-audio-new/1026781038

Fusion 6.5" splits on ebay $80

RF ~ $110:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ROCKFORD-FOSGATE-FNX-2614-6-5-2-Way-Component-Speaker-/170914706315?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cb4f738b&_uhb=1

Pioneers $108

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-In-Box-2013-Pioneer-TS-A1605C-6-5-350W-Component-splits-car-speakers-/190884829287?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c719f5867&_uhb=1

Infinity's $110:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INFINITY-Reference-605cs-6-5-2-Way-Component-Speaker-/190456859576?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c581d0bb8&_uhb=1&autorefresh=true

High end splits run off amp (60W RMS)

RF T162S

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-ROCKFORD-FOSGATE-T162S-6-5-2-Way-Component-System-100-Watts-RMS-/190613009628?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c616bb4dc&_uhb=1

Morel ~$230:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-MOREL-MAXIMO-6-6-1-2-2-Way-COMPONENT-SPLITS-CAR-SPEAKERS-SET-/190851881867?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6fa89b8b&_uhb=1

Focals ~ $230:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-FOCAL-PS165-6-5-2-WAY-PERFORMANCE-SERIES-COMPONENT-CAR-SPEAKERS-PS165-/171114755313?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d73bf4f1&_uhb=1

Sub: Used Rockford Fosgate P1 12" sub in box $60 or JL Audio CP112-W04 in box for $100 (both in like new condition and great value imo!)

http://www.audioplaygroundsf.com/cartimages/prd_216.jpg

http://www.jbhifionline.com.au/rkt/MEDIUM//43/80/4380096.jpg

Wiring kit: 4ga fusion kit $50, db link 4ga amp kit $45 $10 for single to dual rca

I have some dynamat sound deadening somewhere in amongst the piles of leftover car parts from previous builds.

So the questions I have is

Q1: what splits do you recommend?
Q2: instead of a sub/amp, would i be best to buy some better quality splits and some cheap 6x9's for rear fill? (bear in mind my tight $500 budget) and run these off the H/U?
Q3: Am I best to buy the cheaper amp.sub combo and with the $ saved put it towards some splits such as the morel maximo 6.6 (am i better off with a better set of splits with a lower end sub i.e morel splits, rf p1 sub v's say infinity splits & jl audio sub)
Q4: I have installed a few stereo's in the past (simple bolt in type stuff) but with the electrical/soldering etc im not all that crush hot is anyone here in newcastle who does this on the side who can help for beer?

Cheers guys

Shane

Hey,
If you're an easy listener and not a cranker I'd definately remove the sub out of the equation and replace it with quality 6x9's. You could probably land yourself with a great sounding setup with decent front and rears with that headunit fiddling around with it if it's an every day drive on a budget. If you need that extra tuning or you're an audiophile, I'd suggest to then buy into an amplifier to isolate and get the best out of your speakers. As for branding, I've never really dealt too much with competing brands, but I'm sure you could pick up a great pair of rockford fosgate splits and rears for cheap. On the other hand, I know Alpine S range are bang for your buck and are relatively cheap new.

Again, if you feel the need to upgrade your sound with a sub and dont need that thumping power, you could then add in a couple of low profiled or cylindical subs under the seats and parallel that to an amp for a concealed look as well as more low depth in your cabin space.

I've got a great sounding system thats more high range and can only deal you advice from experience, but I'm sure one of the other guys here who have more experience/knowledge will be able to assist you better than I have.

Good luck with it all!

IMO Seal and deaden the front doors, run the morels, (or the focals if you like it brighter) and do the JL sub. Its a pity about 1 set of RCA outs, but that's the go I suppose...
Just cause you have a sub, there is no need to have it banging, but full range music is nice to have.
Sealing the doors takes a while, but 3mm MDF is cheap, and use the dynamat smart, strips on the most flexible parts of the front doors ( usually the largest flattest areas, found easily by tapping your finger on the panel) will rid the door of most of its resonance. That should almost equate to a 3 Db drop in the cab ( noise floor ) which is almost the same result as doubling the power to the splits.
Want some more sound proofing cheap, the verada used a lot of what is very close to underlay, in the cpillars etc, try also the rear door skins, every little bit helps.
Source some verada tweeter sail pods. they will accommodate the maximo tweeter with some finessing and is a pretty good tweeter location.

If your factory baffles are flat, replace with MDF, and ensure the mid drivers are aligned with speaker hole in the door trim, I want to try something on the TJ trim, that has and angled Baffle, I'm going to reinforce one with body filler... Should be interesting.

Hey,
If you're an easy listener and not a cranker I'd definately remove the sub out of the equation and replace it with quality 6x9's. You could probably land yourself with a great sounding setup with decent front and rears with that headunit fiddling around with it if it's an every day drive on a budget. If you need that extra tuning or you're an audiophile, I'd suggest to then buy into an amplifier to isolate and get the best out of your speakers. As for branding, I've never really dealt too much with competing brands, but I'm sure you could pick up a great pair of rockford fosgate splits and rears for cheap. On the other hand, I know Alpine S range are bang for your buck and are relatively cheap new.

Again, if you feel the need to upgrade your sound with a sub and dont need that thumping power, you could then add in a couple of low profiled or cylindical subs under the seats and parallel that to an amp for a concealed look as well as more low depth in your cabin space.

I've got a great sounding system thats more high range and can only deal you advice from experience, but I'm sure one of the other guys here who have more experience/knowledge will be able to assist you better than I have.

Good luck with it all!

Thanks for your feedback and opinion :)

I tend to go overboard whenever I do a 'build' hence why my last system cost me $10k+ as i bought the best of everything, but this time around i need to keep it cheap...

I have also used the alpine gear in the past and was relatively happy (Type R and the old dd drive)

IMO Seal and deaden the front doors, run the morels, (or the focals if you like it brighter) and do the JL sub. Its a pity about 1 set of RCA outs, but that's the go I suppose...
Just cause you have a sub, there is no need to have it banging, but full range music is nice to have.
Sealing the doors takes a while, but 3mm MDF is cheap, and use the dynamat smart, strips on the most flexible parts of the front doors ( usually the largest flattest areas, found easily by tapping your finger on the panel) will rid the door of most of its resonance. That should almost equate to a 3 Db drop in the cab ( noise floor ) which is almost the same result as doubling the power to the splits.
Want some more sound proofing cheap, the verada used a lot of what is very close to underlay, in the cpillars etc, try also the rear door skins, every little bit helps.
Source some verada tweeter sail pods. they will accommodate the maximo tweeter with some finessing and is a pretty good tweeter location.

If your factory baffles are flat, replace with MDF, and ensure the mid drivers are aligned with speaker hole in the door trim, I want to try something on the TJ trim, that has and angled Baffle, I'm going to reinforce one with body filler... Should be interesting.

Well I put in an offer of $215 for the morels and the seller accepted (they seem damn cheap!)

Thanks for the advice on the sealing and deadening much appreciated!

When you say to source some verada tweeter sails, by memory my car already has them cant i use those?

So with your angled baffle you're going to angle it towards the driver?

May I ask what amp should I go for?

The kenwood kacm846 $155 180W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm & 2 x 60W RMS @ 4ohm seems great value to run the splits and sub?

Yes its a shame the h/u only has 1 set of rca preouts, for the sake of another $50 i should sell it and buy a updated pioneer for $100 with dual rca's, usb in & a built in subwoofer controller

im running the "new kenwood kac8105D $189 300W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm" and its great, built in fans to keep cool. Its actually 2ohm stable and pumps 500WRMS if you use something like http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/sws-12d4/

Well I have bought the following equipment so far:

H/U: Pioneer deh2050 $50

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSlzyYwB14CBCCJPiD-4ZmI76hwUmRggBc7L9036zzRjGeY5heOLA&bmi_orig_img=1

Splits: Morel Maximo 6.5" splits $215

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/smoknhothonda/ScreenShot2023_zps27654d45.jpg (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/smoknhothonda/media/ScreenShot2023_zps27654d45.jpg.html)

Amp: (used) Jaycar response AA0424 amp $90 (sub amp bridged 1 CH @ 4 ohms 500W RMS)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/smoknhothonda/ScreenShot2022_zps1d2c2689.jpg (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/smoknhothonda/media/ScreenShot2022_zps1d2c2689.jpg.html)

Yet to purchase:

Sub: (used) JL Audio CP112-W04 $120

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a257/smoknhothonda/ScreenShot2024_zps79e9d90c.jpg (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/smoknhothonda/media/ScreenShot2024_zps79e9d90c.jpg.html)

Amp: (new) jaycar 2 x ch amp for splits ~$100 (I have my eye on a new jaycar response AA0453 which delivers 350WRMS bridged x 2 ch @ 40hm thats around $130)

Subtotal: $355 so far but I will no doubt blow my $500 budget and up around $600 or so most likely.

Unless I buy that RF P1 sub for $60 instead of the JL for $120, and buy a cheap $80 2 x ch amp (sub, 2 x ch amp and wiring kit, db block, y leads etc still to purchase)

The last system I built I would have spent easily $500+ on stinger pro series wiring and rca's etc!

why are you determined to run your sub amp @ 4ohms. Also, why arent you using monoblock for subs?

why are you determined to run your sub amp @ 4ohms. Also, why arent you using monoblock for subs?

TBH im no stereo expert, but the build is to a budget and im just buying gear that's cheap and local.

The 2 x different subs that im looking at that are both in my price range are both 4 ohm subs, and i only wish to run 1 sub. (unsure if the will support a 2ohm load AFAIK they don't?)

The jaycar amp I purchased for the sub was $90, whereas a monoblock would be $200+ right?

I don't see the problem running a bridged 2 channel amp to run a sub???

Some autobarns were selling the JVC mono block in the 2012 series, 250 @ 4 or 400 @ 2, but 250 would be plenty enough for the JL in that slot ported box, you wont set any records, but it will be enough. But the questions is will the 4 channel do it.. Tough call, but it would sound better than sikbynines....