My beloved june 1993(1994 Aust compliance) HJ galant V6 6A12, Alternator looks like it's packed it in but not entirely sure what the issue is.

just as i arrived at work, noticed an unusual whine, thinking transmission but appears to be alternator, smoke pour out around that area, alt case burning hot.

No alternator warning lamp displayed.

spent 4 hours trying to get it out, no way possible i can see unless the motor is moved?

Anyone had the displeasure of removing one with some good tips?

Also originally thought bearing trouble, but spun by hand felt normal, no noise or binding or roughness when electrically disconnected.

When everything is wire up and battery connected, resistance and very notchy as if a magnetic field is stopping it.

is this normal? I'm now thinking it's not and may be an electrical issue/shorted diode allowing battery to back feed current to the alternator, no whine with power disconnected and when connected has a burning/electronic/electric odour about it.

have no choice but to disconnect it and belts, charging each night as only short 7 k trip to work and back, hope to get buy until i can figure how to get it out and replacement or repair.


OEm alternator in the car MD188242 12v 90Amp
Appears MD361625 is a direct replacement too and Bosch 0 986 JR0 151 is suppose to be for both of those as replacements.

Anyone know if they are obtainable here?

If an alternator heats up all by itself, it is usually as you say, a dead diode allowing battery current to flow through it.
It needs to come out, but don't ask me how. Do you have a workshop manual to look at?

I think so, I'm still in a state of panic. Last thing I expected was no hole big enough to get it out of.

i'm out of luck there. all i have is for the models with the engine on nthe drivers side, this one is on the passenger side so not much help

Solution turned out to be removal of the intake plenum and brackets. All i need now is a replacement, MD188242, A3t11191. does not look like there's an aftermarket from Ashdon Ingram, available in England but no one seems interested in selling me one, fantastic car absolute PIA for parts.

sent emails to NZ wreckers, Wood Auto UK, & Mitsfix

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/asset.php?fid=46030&uid=14833&d=1379240956

Sorry mate we have never even wrecked a 6A12 version of your car so we dont have one, I would suggest taking yours down to a good auto elec and getting it rebuilt

No worries, cheers. hens teeth are easier to find for sure. looking at $330 bearings,rectifier,regulator. had it tested today looks like it's dumped a diode which i suspected. Whining and smoke hooked up, quiet otherwise. did crack it open, front bearing ok, rear spins ok but sounds dry, slip rings looked pretty good , brushes50-60% worn, has ingested a far amount of oil from weeping cam seals. Original unit with date stamp 3521 from 1993 Jun build, 1994 Aust comp, 310 000K.

Be amazed if this is it's first strip down but??

P.S. sweet looking wagon in your profile.

Well i got the poor thing back on the road. Her's my saga though. originally given verbal prices for parts and labour which added to $330, the next morning after thinking it over that's not too bad so told the largest Auto Elec workshop here I'd like to go ahead and for something in writing.

Several hours later I get quote now at $400 Plus given they hit me with a $30 charge just to spin it up making it $430 spent. Most decent places i would expect to either not charge for a test but I was happy to shell that out and hopeful they'd take that into account if i gave them the work .

Ah, nup. So no work for them then. Any way ordered a used one from NZ $140 delivered after currency adjustment which is good enough providing it works. (Taranaki Partsworld)

Well after 10 days or so it arrived today. Flimsy box and not looking good, alternator actually looked ok, 1994 date, but must have been dropped on the pulley so that's stuffed.

Ok, could swap mine over in a pinch, but then I start looking closer at it . With the rectifier pack which is clearly visible from the rear there are 6 diodes (3 pairs) each surface soldered to the heatsinks and normally there is a 1-2mm air gap between them however I noticed something not right as 1 pair were touching each other which is impossible if mounted correctly.

Yep, 1 diode has broken free from the heatsink so in effect open cct. Great!

Fortunately in the time I was waiting I took matters in my own hand and researched the parts to rebuild mine.

Got the bearings from CBC,
large front bearing MD618679(1800A020) 17 x 47 x 14 mm used NTN 6303LLHC3/L412 $16.50
small rear MD611928 used NTN EC1SC8A37LLH1CN(B8-85D )8X23X14mm $14.30

Did a special purchase through Supercheap from Cooldrive for the regulator and rectifier.

Regulator MD618673, Transpo IM830
Rectifier MD618672 I used Transpo IMR00062 but this is actually the wrong one. The pack itself had 8 diodes, had the correct terminal post and mounting centres were correct however the plastic shroud was just the wrong profile and slightly too large. I got creative(destructive) and made it fit, 2 diodes simply are not used no drama there.

Collectively $100 after 10% discount, orderd from Melbourne Friday arvo arived Monday arvo Darwin ! Really impressed and they charged only $10-15 for this express service.

One of the biggest problems I find going aftermarket is the incorrect and conflicting pictures and dimensions. With this car at least at least 2 places quoted me a new alternator to fit but when I checked the part numbers they were in fact for the 4G63 motor, no good for 6A12 and they knew I had the 6A12. even cooldrive shows one to fit but incorrect regulator pins 4 as opposed to my 2 pin arrangement. I suspect this for sure is for 6A12 but the later ones like FTO where they changed to a 4 pin arrangement. It was quoted as a direct replacement base on the Alternator model number?

I would have bit the bullet and ordered an OEM rectifier from O'seas but I needed this going again sooner rather than later.

All up the bits cost me $130, running sweet again.

Hopefully Parts world just gives me a refund and I keep the bad one i got. If so I may invest in an OEM rectifier and pulley for this as a backup. It appears the parts may become discontinued and no longer available from what I'm seeing online.