View Full Version : My sub is broken :(
hardkore_macdude
11-09-2004, 01:45 PM
One of my 2 12" Rockford Fosgate Punch HE Subs (running off 800w Rockford fosgate 2 chan amp (parrelel and bridged)) has died. I had it cranked but no more cranked than what i usualy have my system. How can one of my 2 400w subs get fried if my amp puts out 800w? And why only one and not the other, they are exactly the same!
When i press on the sub it makes a clacky noise unlike the other sub that is your usual sub thud. What are the chances of it being a company fault and if not is there anything i can do to fix it rather than having to throw it in a bin and buy a new sub?
Gerard
11-09-2004, 02:43 PM
the voice coil has been ripped.. very common problem.
Are these fairly new? and if so did you wear the subs in?
hardkore_macdude
11-09-2004, 03:27 PM
umm not exactly sure how new, i can find out how much exactly monday but i estimate 6-18 months old. And yeh the subs were worn in nice n easy
Well, sad to hear that happen, but oh well, poo happens and u can't do anything about it. Just chuck it in the bin, or hang it on your wall, do whatever you want with it. Its not a sub worth repairing. Go out and buy a new one. :)
magnat
12-09-2004, 06:56 AM
Scratchy sound when you push on the cone indicates a busted Voice coil.
Get subs that are rated higher then your Amps peak power and you should have a less likely chance of cooking them..
Check the gains on your amp to make sure one isnt being pushed harder then the other..
I have blown subs up in SPL comps and the smell is like cooking a hair dryer, that horrible smell that is hard to cover up with deoderisor
hardkore_macdude
12-09-2004, 08:42 AM
If i just buy another one isnt it just going to happen again? And btw the gain is the same for both because they are hooked up to the same pos/neg terminals on the amp.
Out of interest how much does it cost to repair coils anyway?
The Sandman
12-09-2004, 09:12 AM
the voice coil has been ripped.. very common problem.
Are these fairly new? and if so did you wear the subs in?
A coil of 2-3mm copper wire "ripped" ehh? Interesting... sumfin tells me its more likely MELTED, or the spider (the material that supports the movement of the cone) may be ripped.
I dunno bout cost for replaceing the coil, but I don't think the construction of most subs allows for access to it in the 1st place... unless you get into the huge powered SPL subs from MTX & such, for which you can buy recoil kits, incase of a mid-soundoff blowout!
I maybe wrong about getting it recoiled, & I'd love to see you prove me wrong.
FHRX may be the guy to ask here... he owns/manages/works? in an audio store.
Gerard
12-09-2004, 11:03 AM
A coil of 2-3mm copper wire "ripped" ehh? Interesting... sumfin tells me its more likely MELTED, or the spider (the material that supports the movement of the cone) may be ripped.
I wasnt sure what word to use, ripped/cut/disconnected... never thought of melted :D
thanks
TecoDaN
12-09-2004, 02:52 PM
before you throw the sub out, i suggest you might want to check the internal wiring/connections. It may be that the driver has had a dry joint and so when you pump it, the speaker driver may have lost its connections.
What i mean by internal wiring, the wiring inside the box (from the connection poles to the speaker terminals) and the connection from the speaker terminals to the cone itself.
Actually you will have a more likely chance of melting voice coils if you use any speaker driver rated higher then the amp can handle.
hardkore_macdude
12-09-2004, 03:52 PM
thanks man yeah i checked the connections they are all soldered, no problems their its defintely the sub, i hear the difference when i tap the two subs. Anybody know why ONE sub and how to avoid this happening again? I want to understand what the problem was.
Well, I guess it was just a freak of nature. Pure coincidence. Maybe the person that was making the sub was having a bad day :bowrofl: Hold on, I think machines make them subs. Oh well, you get the drift
The Sandman
14-09-2004, 05:08 PM
before you throw the sub out, i suggest you might want to check the internal wiring/connections. It may be that the driver has had a dry joint and so when you pump it, the speaker driver may have lost its connections.
What i mean by internal wiring, the wiring inside the box (from the connection poles to the speaker terminals) and the connection from the speaker terminals to the cone itself.
Actually you will have a more likely chance of melting voice coils if you use any speaker driver rated higher then the amp can handle.
Sorry to be pedantic again, but I'm pretty sure you'll find melted voice coils come from over-power, & ripped spiders come commonly from underpower.. ie. clipping.. where the signal tries to drive the cone past it's limits, & holds it there at the top/bottom of the wave causeing damage to the spider. :D
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