I cant get my TW sedan boot open with the remote or the release in the glovebox.I can hear the motor in the boot whirring the usual sound and have tried gentle levering while better half pushes the release but no good. I am on gas so trying to access via hatch in rear seat meets a brick wall. :beer:Grateful for any ideas. Tom

tried the key ?

tried the key ?

Cool idea, if it had somewhere to put said key. lol

Try pushing DOWN on the boot lid while pushing the glove box release button, then letting go of the lid.

I vaguely remember an emergency release just inside the hatch on the left, accessed from the back seat. (This info may be for a different model though - consult your handbook.)

If you can hear the motor going sounds like the cable might have snapped.

If you can hear the motor going sounds like the cable might have snapped.

And that helps exactly how?

My TL manual says there is an emergency release cable accessible through the rear hatch, on the left - just checked. Look/feel for a ring-pull. Gas bottle shouldn't be in the way, unless the installer did something silly to it.

Thanks, Found the emergency release inside the back seat hatch, its like a ring pull. the wire cable that attatches to the plastic arm of the motor has come off. Looks like it must have had a crimped lug securing it once it passed through a guide. Hopefully I can re crimp an inline lug or sinker on the end for a fix. Thanks to all and there is no keyhole in this boot.

Both my remote button and the push button inside the glove box were making the motor actuate, however the boot wouldn't release. Turns out the white plastic knob on the boot latch had been bumped to the "LOCK" position (blamed the mrs.)

Just as an aside...when the boot release button on your remote only opens the boot intermittently it's usually the first sign the battery in the fob is on the Fritz. The door buttons then follow in short order.

My boot (sedan) just has a weak motor, sounds like the OP has this as well. Nothing to do with the fob And if it was it wouldn't affect the operation of the button in the glove box

I've done everything within my ability of 'normal' tools to fix it, but it's just weak and needs replacing. I just use the key, but it's sometimes quite annoying not being able to open the boot without taking the key out of the ignition

If you hadn't figured it out already about the little white lever i was gonna point it out

My car suddenly started doing this after a long drive and thought I'd buggered something somehow, turns out the Mrs' had played with the lever when loading the boot :p

Note to Millenium7.
Not sure what is a 'weak motor'.
It is possible that you have a bad power connection somewhere in the wiring to the motor. I would suggest you try to measure the voltage at the motor terminals. It should be close to 12 volt as a minimum while you crank the motor.
If this passes, then check the condition of the brush gear inside the motor.
hope this helps.

Note to Millenium7.
Not sure what is a 'weak motor'.
It is possible that you have a bad power connection somewhere in the wiring to the motor. I would suggest you try to measure the voltage at the motor terminals. It should be close to 12 volt as a minimum while you crank the motor.
If this passes, then check the condition of the brush gear inside the motor.
hope this helps.

The magnets get weaker or winding insulation breaks down. Usually from heat
If it was just a bad connector and could be fixed then great, but I don't think so. I checked the voltage and it changes very rapidly but does spike to 13v. I presume this is normal behavior
It's not the cable as there's very little resistance when operating by hand. The motor is just weak
And it's noticeably weaker when repeatedly pushing the button, motor just can't fight against the resistance of the boot release latch

OK.
Magnets get weaker:
The motors are usually assembled and the magnets magnetised in situ. If the motor is dismantled then it is possible for the reassembled motor to show a weaker magnetic field. This is checked by knowing the no load current and speed for a 'standard' motor. However, I have rebuilt permanent magnet DC motors where the magnets have come unstuck from the outer casing, and the no load current and speed of the reassembled motor is within 5% or so of a comparable new motor. I am also aware that PM DC motors of the flat or pancake variety can 'just lose the magnetic field strength' and I am not sure how this happens. However, if the magnetic field becomes weaker, then the normal motor running current increases as well. The 'normal' motor torque produced is a function of the magnetic field strength and the armature current. If the field strength reduces, then the current increases. If the circuit wiring or battery supply current limits the amount of current that can be supplied to the motor, then the motor torque will be less. Consequently, a high flux density magnetic field is required to give a low current high torque motor.

Winding insulation breaks down:
If the winding insulation fails, then the motor has what is called short circuited turns. This situation will cause the short circuited turn to have a very high current induced in it and this will cause the motor torque to be seriously reduced. Operating a motor in this condition will quickly lead to total motor failure because the localised heating in the short circuited turn will rapidly lead to a spreading of the damage.

Separating out just exactly what is causing lower torque can be a bit problematic in low voltage motors.

If you can get access to a motor and check its characteristics then maybe you can diagnose your problem. I am a guy that likes to diagnose problems. However in many cases, it is easier and quicker sometimes to just replace and ' see how she goes'. BUT, if after the first 'see how she goes' the problem still persists, then the diagnostic approach is called for.

If it would help I can do some tests on my TW boot motor.

Hope this helps.

I have to sadly bump this thread. Everything works for me besides the remote and the boot release button, which is 2/3 ways to open AFAIK. I did push the boot slider thing to free, but I have no idea if it really is a weak motor or I'm just being stupid. Anybody might possible have some suggestions?

I have to sadly bump this thread. Everything works for me besides the remote and the boot release button, which is 2/3 ways to open AFAIK. I did push the boot slider thing to free, but I have no idea if it really is a weak motor or I'm just being stupid. Anybody might possible have some suggestions?

My suggestion would be a capacitor - and this is something I thought of when I originally had this problem but I ended up getting too lazy and doing nothing with it
Place capacitor (and maybe some of small simple controller board) between the motor and power wire. When activating motor, capacitor quickly charges and then supplies a higher voltage, say 20v to the motor and for a slightly longer duration. Effectively giving more oomph to it

But I don't know enough about electrics to figure out what would be required and how to hook it up

give me a few days and I'll have a look at a few things.

I've had a bit of a look.
I only have the TL/KL manual and not the TW manual. BUT, the KL seems to have the boot lock operated from a press button just like the TW. The wiring to the push button switch is only two wires and the wiring to the motor appears to have only two wires so therefore there MUST be a relay. The KL circuit shows a relay.
The motor unit is a worm gear driving a spur gear and the motor MUST be driven bi-directionally to release and reset.
When the push button switch is held pressed, the motor current is in excess of 2 amp and if this current was continuously applied, the motor would burn out.
My confusion at this stage is how the system resets and then disconnects the battery power when the mechanism reaches the reset point. The White bit may be involved.
Diagnosis needs to separate out mechanical vs electrical problems. The Bowden cables need to be free and not broken and working OK but what requirements there are I'm not sure.
If electrical, the motor would need to be checked for operation. Connecting 12 volt to it would get it going and reverse polarity would turn it the opposite direction.
The relay needs to be located as well and I have no idea where it is at this stage.
I did notice on my TW that the Bowden cable has a bit of a sharp bend where it s taped to the boot hinge; not sure if on some cars this would result in a higher than normal operating force.
Will do a bit more work on the problem but some feedback would be good from anyone having problems. I'm hamstrung a bit by not having a manual.

Update.
I took the motor assembly out of the car and separated the motor part in its plastic housing, from the cable winding part. This allowed me to measure the 'No Load' motor current.
I used an ANALOG volt meter and with a 12 volt car battery supply, the 'No Load' motor current was 125 milli-amp.
If the motor is faulty in some way, then I would expect the 'No Load' current to be higher by a factor of 2 at least.
Hope this helps to define whether the motor is faulty or not.
The relay for operating the boot lock seems to be in the fuse box just by the drivers knee under the dashboard.

I must be very stupid but does the boot not opening from the switch, and the motor operating have something to do with this part (http://imgur.com/ucpAdq3)? It moves when I turn the key but when pressing the button or remote it doesn't. My guess is some wiring problem? I've looked at a few fuses but none were blown. I WAS installing my LEDs at the time it stopped working but I can't see why they'd affect it.

I the 'No Load' motor current was 125 milli-amp.

Better to test the start-up current by locking the drive and testing very quickly.
The current draw at atart-up will give you watts, and some idea of how much starting torque the motor can put out.

LUKKY: Key unlocks mechanically and the motor is not involved.
Remote and glovebox switch use the motor.
Test if the motor turns at all with the boot lid up and using the remote and/or switch, if no action look for blown fuse, wiring, etc.

If the motor runs, try adjusting the boot lock to have less resistance.

I'm not too sure where I can adjust the resistance ._. The motor works for sure but it's just not pulling the lid up like it used to. Do I have to take the motor out of its place?

No, adjustment of how easy/hard it is to pop the boot lid is done at the latch. Have a look for adjustment points on the metal loop on the bodywork and the catch on the lid.

LUKKY,
I didnt recognise the part pictured. It looked like it pulled something tho'.
On the TW, there is no boot key. The plate which moves to open the boot latch is pulled by either of two cables; One pulls from the electric motor and the other pulls from the emergency release, accessible through the rear seat armrest.
The electric motor arrangement is bolted to a bracket on the LHS of the boot.
My guess is you do not have a TW. If so, what model?

My Verada is a 01 KJ I believe. Basically the part pictured was the key barrel, and there were electrical wires going from the motor to that, and to the release latch. I've tried everything from lubing, to replugging that switch and looking at the motor but nothing seems wrong, and I can't debunk if the cable has actually snapped.

It doesn't help that none of the wreckers nearby have everything but this one part.

Update: I was able to adjust the things MadMax mentioned but the issue seems to be with the hook not releasing when triggered with the remote and glovebox button. I literally have no idea what is causing it and I'm now looking into installing a capacitor, if that would help.

Going back to post #20 from Madmax. MM's post seems to refer to testing of starter motors rather than the motor for unlocking the trunk lid.
A starter motor has a specification for 'Locked Rotor Torque'. A starter motor is a series wound motor. When the starter is engaged, the pawl connects to the ring gear and the starter motor effectively stalls. The 'Locked Rotor Torque' is an effective parameter for this condition. With the trunk lid opener, the motor gradually winds up the cables etc and pulls the operating latch. A low pulling force is required for the motor to open the trunk.
The trunk lid opener motor is a permanent magnet DC motor (effectively a shunt wound DC motor) and such a specification is not really applicable. On my TW, holding the push button in the 'OPEN' position, gives a stalled motor current of about 2.5 amp. Dont do this test. Instead, if you have an analog milliammeter, check the no load current and it should be about 125 milliamp.
Let me have a look at what I've got here and I'll get back to you in a day or so.

Rumpfy:
If the cable is without slack, the startup torque at 0 RPM of the motor is important to get things moving. Also, if the motor stalls out the torque it produces at 0 RPM is also important. 2.5A at 0 rpm = 30 watts, so I wouldn't expect it to have any trouble popping the boot open.

LUKKY:
To test if the cable is ok, do:
Open boot.
Push the hook on the latch in with a screwdriver shaft to mimic the action of the boot closing.
Trigger the boot open on the remote.
If the latch springs open, the cable is ok.
If ok, check the ends of the cable - they may be loose or come off their seats at the motor/latch end, or the cable may be stretched.

Hope this helps track the problem.

The latch stays stuck. I'm thinking more and more its the cable. My only problem is, no one has this part in Sydney. I have no idea how I can MacGuyver this part to work... Turning off the engine every time to open the boot is really inconvenient

If the motor works and the latch doesn't pop, look at the following:

Arm on motor that pulls the cable, is it loose?
Ends of inner cable at both ends - end nipple come off?
Ends of outer cable, both ends - anchor points working, cable outer not free to jump off?

Identify the problem before searching for parts.

UPDATE: I managed to find out where everything went wrong. The wire coiling into the motor snapped at that end, so I got a solder and mended the end bit. It (hopefully) should work for a bit, but until I find a new motor-cable part this is my MacGuyver solution.

You should be able to recreate the whole cable with bits from a bicycle shop.

TL & TW don't have a boot key

If it's the same lock as the TJ they have a lock button inside the boot (which is stupid) sometimes this lock can be moved to the lock position and NOTHING will open the boot unless you can get a long pole/ broom handle into the boot from behind the back seat and move the little button to unlock. The lock motor will sound but nothing will happen. There should be a larger panel you can remove behind the seat back-remove the rear seat and undo the screws, this will allow a much larger area to get into the boot. Hope it works

If it's the same lock as the TJ they have a lock button inside the boot (which is stupid) sometimes this lock can be moved to the lock position and NOTHING will open the boot

The not-so-stupid idea is that you switch this little white lever to "lock", then lock the glovebox with your key. Then give whoever next drives the car the "valet" key that originally came with the car. This can start the car, but not open the glovebox or open the boot.
This way, you can get your car serviced but your preciouz stuffz in the boot - tools, drugs, scuba gear, guns, whatever - is safe from prying eyes and sticky fingers.
Valet key was a different colour I think, never seen one though.

EDIT: in short, if you put the boot lock on, the glovebox switch should normally still open the boot but the key won't work in the boot lock.

TL & TW don't have a boot key

Do they have the cable lever on the floor next to the driver and switch in the glovebox?

"Valet key was a different colour I think, never seen one though"
The one I've got is grey.

"Valet key was a different colour I think, never seen one though"
The one I've got is grey.

Yes, that is it! I was thinking a lighter colour than the normal key.
I've bought a number of Mitsus over the decades, never got the grey key - do people throw them away or something?

TL s don't have the little white locking latch

Yes, that is it! I was thinking a lighter colour than the normal key.
I've bought a number of Mitsus over the decades, never got the grey key - do people throw them away or something?
Maybe they lose them, the guy I bought this car from had the grey one and 11 normal black keys, he told me he bought a new key whenever he had some extra cash, a bit odd I thought but then I also do strange things.