I have a pioneer head unit connected to the stock verada speakers. Was listening to a track today via my phone (aux input) and then all of a sudden no sound. I get nothing through the speakers except a very faint 'pop' when I turn the head unit on, otherwise no sound on Aux/Radio, not even static

I checked the 10a fuse directly below the plug on the head unit itself, thats fine. I checked for a fuse on the drivers side kick box, that too is fine. Are there any other fuses or systems i'm missing? or is it likely i've somehow blown something in the head unit? I've tried removing it from power to reset it, no help

edit: it's a 50W x4 system which I presume to be powerful enough for the verada speakers? the track I was listening to was very 'bassy' but it wasn't up very loud, i've cranked it much, much louder in the past without issue

Sounds like your head unit has an issue

Continuous pop or just turning the unit off/on, if its just one off pop thats no problem.

Does CD work?

If the unit has power then it wouldn't be a fuse, forget the power ratings, 50 is max, at most from that unit you will get 18 watts rms and even then its still generous as for verada speakers, I wouldnt look into that too much either. Sounds like an internal fault with the headunit, if you have power and no sound on any function could be an internal fault with the unt.

one very faint pop when turning the unit on. What you'd normally expect anyway which leads me to believe speakers are getting some power from somewhere
Guess i'll be pulling the head unit apart and having a look. Any high voltage capacitors to worry about?

It almost sounds as though the internal amplifier circuitry in the head unit is powering up, hence the "pop" when powered on, but no audio is being fed into it. Could be the sound chip or something else in the audio circuit.

Cold solder joints are entirely possible in car head units and are a relatively simple repair, although I'm not sure how susceptible these Mitsubishi head units are to developing issues of this nature. Never worked on one myself, unfortunately.

its not the stock head unit (no aux input = throw in the bin)
its an aftermarket one

That said I still have the original one, I tried connecting it but its being stupid. Code is apparently 6532 but when I enter that it didn't accept it first 2 goes, then on the 3rd it seemed to but then nothing at all, screen blank wouldn't do anything. Powered off and back on, tried again now its locked for an hour
I'll try again later, if that works then I know its the head unit, if it's having issues then I assume there might be something else in the car somewhere. Perhaps a bad ground? though seems unlikely....

Ok so I pulled the head unit apart, found there was a decent amount of corrosion inside and the exterior metal casing had rust on it
Bought some contact cleaner, stripped all the circuits out (there really isn't much that makes up these things) and gave everything a good blasting, did this twice
Reassembled, reconnected the wiring harness and tried to turn it on, nothing

Tried the stock unit again, same thing whereby after I successfully unlock it it does nothing. Found out I need to have the antenna connected for it to power on? Is this normal?
Same thing with my aftermarket unit, it needed the antenna plugged in as well or it would refuse to power on.

Anyway once I got it powered back on, I have sound again!
The CD player doesn't work though, and it hasn't worked since I put it in the car (and havn't used it for many months prior to that)
It accepts a CD and attempts to read it but I always get a FRMTREAD / ERROR-11 which can mean many things according to the manual, but essentially it can't read the disc no matter what it is
Not too fussed about that, who uses CD's anymore anyway? I can play everything off my phone or nexus 7 when I get it

How would you use your phone to play music on a stock head unit?

Keeping in mind the quality from the stock head unit is quite poor. I upgraded and left stock speakers and the sound improved vastly.

Err i'm not using the stock head unit?
I simply reconnected the stock head unit to see if I got sound (to rule out bad grounding or other issues)

I misunderstood, I thought you meant you reconnected the OEM head unit to use

Tried the stock unit again, same thing whereby after I successfully unlock it it does nothing. Found out I need to have the antenna connected for it to power on? Is this normal?
Same thing with my aftermarket unit, it needed the antenna plugged in as well or it would refuse to power on.

I had this same issue occur, albeit in a Second Gen.

I believe the antenna itself is connected to ground, possibly where it's attached to the chassis. The dedicated ground wire coming from the head unit connector wasn't grounded to the body properly, and the head unit wouldn't power on. When I connected the antenna, the head unit used the antenna wire as the ground instead, completing the circuit - and the unit turned on.

I ended up running a wire attached to a bolt on the chassis (since the entire metal body acts as a ground) to the ground wire from the head unit. After that, the unit would power on and off as normal, even without the antenna connected.

Continuous pop or just turning the unit off/on, if its just one off pop thats no problem.

Does CD work?

If the unit has power then it wouldn't be a fuse, forget the power ratings, 50 is max, at most from that unit you will get 18 watts rms and even then its still generous as for verada speakers, I wouldnt look into that too much either. Sounds like an internal fault with the headunit, if you have power and no sound on any function could be an internal fault with the unt.
I own a 2001 magna sports and have owed it for about 8months and is completely stock standard. About 3 months ago the FM Band on the factory radio stopped working leaving me AM only. The cd and when connected to the aux for the I-pod all worked. Then after about another month the AM band of the radio stopped as well. Had the unit replaced with a pioneer unit and problem solved

Well once again the sound stopped. It was fine for a little while then when I turned the volume up on a particularly bassy track all sound cut out. The head unit was still on and appeared to work as normal, just no output (Again, this is an aftermarket pioneer unit, NOT the stock unit!)

Have tried disconnecting it, leaving it for a while and reconnecting, still no sound. Even tried disassembling and cleaning again, still nothing.
Considering it has cut out twice now on bassy tracks, is it possible that 4x50w is just not enough for the stock verada speakers at high volume and its tripping something?
Does the car itself run an Amp or anything between the speakers and head unit that can blow/trip/refuse to send sound?

Ok now i'm convinced the car has a 'middle man' between the head unit and speakers. For sure the head unit was not outputting any sound whatsoever. All connections were fine, double checked and cleaned all of them
Plug the stock head unit back in and unlock it, sure enough get sound through the speakers. Reconnect the aftermarket one and hey what do you know? sound works just fine. Thats what happened last time. It seems to be that something is tripping and from that point on it will absolutely refuse to send sound to the speakers unless unlocked from the stock head unit again

Once I didn't clip in the connector correctly to the head unit and only my rear speakers worked.
Maybe the issue is somewhere there?

According to the circuit diagram there's no inline amp (ie. middleman), it's possible one's been fitted somewhere but if so it should be fairly easy to find. Assuming no amp is fitted, and since the problem occurred with both head units, this leaves the steering wheel remote controls (if you have them), the phone connector (shuts the radio up when the phone rings - blue wire), the power source and the speakers themselves. I think the power source can be eliminated since you say the head unit remained powered up. Possibly a speaker driver is dodgy, occasionally drawing more current than it should, but I would expect this to blow the fuse on the head unit, and it would stay blown (unless it's a re-settable circuit breaker). Is there any chance the phone connector has been incorrectly connected to something or is shorting out? I'm not sure how it operates (ie. whether the phone unit supplies +volts or ground when the phone rings). If you have the steering wheel radio controls, could they be sticking/shorting/etc?

Had this problem once, turned out to be incorrectly wired speakers causing the radio to cut out from overload. Do this often enough and the radio gives up permanently.

Well once again the sound stopped. It was fine for a little while then when I turned the volume up on a particularly bassy track all sound cut out. The head unit was still on and appeared to work as normal, just no output (Again, this is an aftermarket pioneer unit, NOT the stock unit!)

Have tried disconnecting it, leaving it for a while and reconnecting, still no sound. Even tried disassembling and cleaning again, still nothing.
Considering it has cut out twice now on bassy tracks, is it possible that 4x50w is just not enough for the stock verada speakers at high volume and its tripping something?
Does the car itself run an Amp or anything between the speakers and head unit that can blow/trip/refuse to send sound?

I have the same symptoms with my Sony home stereo. Powers on for a little while then the sound then stops working. I assumed amplifier would overheat then shut itself down....

That's what I get for buying something from salvos......lol

According to the circuit diagram there's no inline amp (ie. middleman), it's possible one's been fitted somewhere but if so it should be fairly easy to find. Assuming no amp is fitted, and since the problem occurred with both head units, this leaves the steering wheel remote controls (if you have them), the phone connector (shuts the radio up when the phone rings - blue wire), the power source and the speakers themselves. I think the power source can be eliminated since you say the head unit remained powered up. Possibly a speaker driver is dodgy, occasionally drawing more current than it should, but I would expect this to blow the fuse on the head unit, and it would stay blown (unless it's a re-settable circuit breaker). Is there any chance the phone connector has been incorrectly connected to something or is shorting out? I'm not sure how it operates (ie. whether the phone unit supplies +volts or ground when the phone rings). If you have the steering wheel radio controls, could they be sticking/shorting/etc?

I don't have steering wheel controls. Whats this phone business? is that the connector which resides below the ash tray, and in front of the gear stick? There's a plug there with nothing connected to it

I believe that is the wire, yes (mine's been connected to a phone controller box since I bought it so I am not sure where it normally lives). It's designed to connect to a Bluetooth or handsfree phone kit and it shuts the radio up when the phone rings. I don't know exactly how it does this, whether it's volts or ground or some other signal, just thought it was worth checking since your issue seems to be self-correcting in the sense that it comes good by itself... which is weird. Generally when the phone rings the head unit's display says "Phone" or "Call" or some such, and your after-market head unit most likely doesn't even have the phone wire (few do any more) so this probably ain't the problem, just figured it was worth mentioning as something else to eliminate.

EDIT: I suspect MadMax may be correct, if the speakers aren't original check they are wired correctly and check that you haven't crossed polarity anywhere. Maybe even check each corner with a multi-tester at the head unit, ie. check the resistance between the +ve and -ve wires for each channel and see if any corner is significantly different, possibly indicating a bung driver (I assume, not particularly familiar with speaker driver fault diagnosis).

My problem was that the single rear speaker was both connected to the + of the rear speaker wiring, it was making sound because of the slight differences in stereo signal. Cranked it up to get enough volume, and the radio would overload.

Honestly, check your wiring. If it looks ok, disconnect rear speakers and try again, at least it will tell you if the problem is in the front pair or rear. Worth checking the resistance of each speaker too, one may be foobared, or a short in the wiring. Some detective work needed. lol

FUBAR: google it!

Reading through your posts, your stock unit works, your pioneer works after being played with and is full of corrosion, dont you think that perhaps the poineer has seen it days and is due for replacement. They are cheap enough new and used ones are all over the place for around $30 bucks.

Reading through your posts, your stock unit works, your pioneer works after being played with and is full of corrosion, dont you think that perhaps the poineer has seen it days and is due for replacement. They are cheap enough new and used ones are all over the place for around $30 bucks.

You missed a couple vital posts then
My aftermarket unit only works AFTER unlocking with the 'stock' unit. It's possible something in the aftermarket unit is tripping, but if that was the only case then it would work again perfectly after disconnecting power and reconnecting. It doesn't, it (the car) MUST be unlocked using the 'stock' unit otherwise I can't get sound at all
Chances are if I bought another unit i'd have the same problem if it 'trips' again. I still don't know if the head unit, or something else is 'tripping', if its something else, i'll continue to have issues.

That said I would like another unit with bluetooth functionality, the head unit I currently have has very good sound quality and was a pretty expensive bit of kit back in the day.
If anyones offering to sell a bluetooth one for cheap i'm all ears, but at this stage i'm more interested in fault finding
Will check resistance on each speaker later

You are blaming the headunit and getting nowhere, so the problem must be elsewhere.
Recheck your wiring, take nothing for granted.
Check resistance of each speaker with the wiring to the speaker disconnected at the head unit.

Hey mate, are you in brisbane at all...???

Wether the stock unit is unlocked or locked will have nothing to with it, it has no ties to the car that would prevent another unit working, some later cars have the audio system built into CAN systems that can shut the whole audio system down, but not Magnas/veradas..

The pioneer units are a bit wierd when it comes to earths, I can disconnect my earths to the head unit, and it still works, I worked out it earths trough the Remote control wiring for my audio controls..
But the first thing I would suggest is wiring a direct earth from the aftermarket unit you have to a good earth, like the dash rail, that bar that runs under the dash, there are bolts up there so a good earth can be acheived...
I'm not surprised that the unit would earth through the Antenna cable.. But it might not be enough to allow the few amps the H/U requires to run...
I recently connected a new H/U to a 2002 VRX - using Aerpro AP0111, its a plug that connects to the Verada harness, they are now 17 bucks at super cheap
http://aerpro.com.au/product_pics/APP0111.jpg

Cut off the brown and black plugs, and solder those to the plug with wires that came with your after market unit... Still make a direct earth though, as described above...
The reason I recommend these, is if you ever go back to stock, the plug remains unmutilated, and it can be reused to connect another unit if you ever upgrade, just desolder the app0111 from the old unit and reattach to to the new one...
Theres quite a weird thing with the stock audio, it sometimes earths through the mount bracket, but if you make a direct earth run, it will make removing the for testing easy without resetting itself...
I've done 5 fits for myself in the magna (3) and 380 (2)... and a few for others...

Then get out a multimeter, without a head unit being connected, and check for continuity between all speaker +/- and the chassis body....

But If you are in brisbane, I'd be happy to help out!

I recently picked up my new Verada and drove it 2000ks home with NO tunes, which was particularly annoying as the the JVC head unit had sounded really good with the stock speakers on the test drive.
I installed a Sony mechless unit (30% off sale at jb hifi=$48:)) and again, NO damn sound from the speakers.
Long-short, a wire that goes from the speaker connector to the speaker cone was touching the frame which will activate the circuit protection in the head unit (not the power but the sound output). A bit of electrical tape to insulate the wire from the frame and good to go......

Hi friends ...!
Well i have never heard sound problem like this , but usually head unit is the major cause of sound problem , you should check (http://www.accountants-goldcoast.com.au/financial-planning/) this with any other connection .