I went investigating why one of my fogs isn't working and discovered that the lense has been smashed and the whole thing has corroded. The previous owner unplugged it to stop it blowing fuses.

I was considering upgrading the bulbs to something more punchy and with glass lenses, I think it should cope with the extra heat okay.

My question is this. Has someone already done this?
A spot of Google turned up 100 and 130 watt varients of the H3 bulb. Will the bulb carrier take the extra heat from the 130W bulb?
Will the extra wattage give me better close fill?

My headlights are aimed long, due to lots of highway driving. This leaves me lacking in spread when tackling the more exciting back roads and I'm hoping that the up-rated fogs will give the close fill and lateral light that I'm looking for.

I know that this will require relays, fuses, and some time with the sparky tape, so we can skip that advice ;)

Afaik this will still be legal because they are on a separate switch, am I correct in thinking this?

No no no, never use over wattage globes on factory wiring, they get far too hot too quickly. They might be fine for occasional use but I would never recommend it, just get some decent 100% vision globes by either phillips/osrasm or narva and leave them at that. In this scenario it wouldnt be the lens being the bottleneck it would be the wiring and holder.

Legal? Im not sure if overwattage globes are ADR approved but lets be honest if you aim them well and they dont produce much glare you shouldnt get picked up for them anyway.

I wasn't planning on running the factory wiring past using it to trigger the relays. Not my first time running over wattage globes and/or spotlights.

I wanted to avoid mounting spot/driving lights, as I think they ruin the look. Was hoping that the spread of light from the fogs would give me the close fill and lateral light that the headlamps are not giving me, due to how they are setup.
What I don't want to be doing is putting something nearly triple the factory wattage into the plastic holders if they are not going to cope with the heat.

I wasn't planning on running the factory wiring past using it to trigger the relays. Not my first time running over wattage globes and/or spotlights.

I wanted to avoid mounting spot/driving lights, as I think they ruin the look. Was hoping that the spread of light from the fogs would give me the close fill and lateral light that the headlamps are not giving me, due to how they are setup.
What I don't want to be doing is putting something nearly triple the factory wattage into the plastic holders if they are not going to cope with the heat.

Have you honestly though about fitting projectors into the headlights? They look great, somewhat easy to do and the results are fantastic.

The factory holders wont cope with the heat but im sure you assumed that already, as for close fill I think you will get that but I dont think the result would be worth the effort IMO. Upgrading the lights from the headlamps would be the smartest upgrade.

I'll have a look into it.
My default go to is getting 50/60 or 50/90 in the mains, but thought I might be able to do something with the fogs.

Might just grab some new 50/60 and see how it goes, make a decision from there.

Edit.
Skimmed the FAQ again, seems the stock bulbs are 55/60.
Will get some new ones in there, get the fogs fixed, make a decision from there.

I think that's a good idea, you could also install projectors into the foggies.

I think that's a good idea, you could also install projectors into the foggies.

Having attempted this, its alot of work IMO. Issue you face is the standard lenses are fluted. Which will distort the cutoff line and thus defeat the purpose of a projector.

I attempted making a clesr acrylic lense but never got the time to finish them.

Kif380 and Foozrcool has done this using a matchbox projector but the 380 foggies are a better design.

When I have a chance Ill attempt to finish mine, but for now, HIDS in them will have to do...