Hi guys, not extremely important but I did an o2 sensor swap recently, I was a little peeved when the one I bought was meant to be a direct fit but was a universal one instead.

I originally though that fitting it would be simple and I would just go to town on it with solder, however upon reading the instructions it states "no solder should be used" so naturally I figured I would use the crimp connectors and housing that came with the kit.

I noticed the two white wires are "heating" wire's this is why I assume you cant solder them, but can someone expand on this? Im quite curious.

Thanks
Luke

I vaguely remember reading something like that. It refers to the wire joints right at the sensor, I think the lead in the solder can work its way down into the sensor itself and destroy it. Perhaps they are talking about fumes produced during soldering, or wicking of the liquid solder through the wiring into the sensor. Then again, soldering a new connector on the other end of the wiring will be no problem, seeing plenty of people have done it that way.

So a universal sensor with a wiring harness already attached should be ok. I guess they use lead free solder to join the wiring to the actual sensor? Donno.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/Oxygen_Sensor_Universal_Bosch_pn15733.jpg

I see some come with a crimping kit, like the one you say you used. Probably safer that way.

I do know leaded petrol destroys an O2 sensor quick smart, they must be delicate little things. lol

Delicate and expensive little things.

Mine came with the same fitting kit that the one above does.

However I cut my wiring near the sensor and just transferred the wiring that already had the grommet and plug on it over to the new one.

some sensors have wires that dont take to solder (nickle plated), but as a general rule its ok to solder most sensors.... just test that the solder takes to the ends of the wires before you go to all the effort of cutting them to length only to find out that they wont solder. also try to make the joints as far away from the sensor as possible, and stagger them so you minimize the chance of a short.

For the price of a sensor why bother risking a bad signal to the ECU and not just get a proper NTN or Genuine unit

For the price of a sensor why bother risking a bad signal to the ECU and not just get a proper NTN or Genuine unit

This is what you should do when you havent already bought a sensor.

For the price of a sensor why bother risking a bad signal to the ECU and not just get a proper NTN or Genuine unit

Because sometimes the advice you get from some people is wrong and you think you are getting one that is direct plug and play.

If you look at testing an O2 sensor they warn about ANY electrical input to the sensor damaging the sensor - if you're soldering iron has any voltage leak - it will wreck the sensor, solder at your own risk + if you make a even slightly poor connection it will effect the reading - Oh and plus if you solder too close and get tin etc contaminating the leads it could migrate to the sensor and ruin it.