Hi guys, I've got a TL magna with a 6G75 and just wondering if anyone else has had a problem with them pinging? Especially in hotter weather. Engines got 60,000kms, fluids are checked every week and I use penrite oils.. Because they run higher compression do they need higher octane fuel or is the 91 octane sufficient?

ive had this problem just recently in my tj magna, found out i had a few vacuum leaks and my coil was buggered. until you find out what the problem is run the car on 98 so you dont create burn spots on the top of the pistons and burn the valves.

Well I've gotta fill up today so I'll put 98 in it.. Should say it only pings when under hard acceleration and giving it a bit of a stab at low revs around 1500, and that's only when it's above say 30 degrees outside so it's not a constant thing

The only thing I would put 91 fuel in would be the lawn mower I.M.O.

are you sure its pinging and not bearing chatter?

Na coming from the top and just filled up with 98 and can't hear a thing no matter how hard I try

As this is in a 3rd gen, what did you do about getting it tuned? If you are using the stock 6G74 maps (or even the Ralliart maps), I think they would be quite risky in the higher compression engine with 91RON fuel...

Stock tune.. I think that might be why it was pinging.. But it was never bad and I'd rarely hear it until the 40 degree weather came in the last few days

are you sure its pinging and not bearing chatter?

Does bearing chatter mean the end of an engine?

Stock tune.. I think that might be why it was pinging.. But it was never bad and I'd rarely hear it until the 40 degree weather came in the last few days
In the absence of a custom tune, my advice would be to stick to premium fuels if you want that engine to last.

While there is a compensation table in the ECU that would reduce the ignition advance in high air temps, the stock tune doesn't use it. If you are are aware of occasional knock even in cooler air temps, I'd suggest finding a way to check the state of your piston tops for damage (e.g. an endoscope through the spark plug hole).

Just get a tune before you wreck a piston or pinch a ring. Even if you flash a Ralliart tune that could save you till you get a proper tune.

Cheers Dave

The engine could easily be pinging event hough you cannot hear it. Damage will likely be minor, but sustained minor damage can add up and then be expensive.

Yeah looking into a tune but don't know where to get it don and cash is a bit tight for Christmas.. And na doesn't make a noise when it's colder temp.. Does anyone else with a 380 conversion run 91 octane with a standard tune?

Anyone suggest a good place in vic to get a tune? Or even send away for a mail order tuned ecu?

Not sure why you would have any issues, people harp on about tunes in these and yes are good IF you can get one done TO YOUR CAR (not some lame postal tune you will be charged $250 for which is not suited to your car at all)

I have done close on 60 of these conversions, probably done more of these conversions in my workshop alone than all the others combined, some have even been on cars such as a KE Wagon nearly 2 years ago, guy still runs the KE ECU and had not done any damage at all, car is a daily and does tonnes of KM as well. One (not that I was happy to do this but customer insisted to try this) is still running on a 3.0 ECU and again no issues (to my surprise and would not recommend it either). My wagon I had one of these so called you bute postal tunes in it, purchased the ECU from someone who had no need for it anymore when I also purchase his motor and gearbox. Put the ECU in my car, ripped it out a week later and put a standard 3.5l ECU back in as my fuel consumption went through the roof, lost most of my bottom end as well. Strange thing I my car is also a Manual (as was the other persons), was running HM headers as was his car so much of the set up was the same.

Every car is different in its small ways and the only way to tune is to get it done live. With the OP post, be sure you are getting pre ignition as could be many other things as well

Well you did my conversion for me mal, can't say I've had a drama with it at all.. Just to clear things up a bit it a very minor ping that only happens on a hotter day but running 98 octane on a 43 degree day and not even the slightest noise so I'm happy with that.. If it breaks feel free to say I told you so ha ha

Also mal, would you suggest to run higher octane to anyone with this conversion or do you think the 91 would be fine?

if what mal is saying is true (and im not one for saying it is or isnt, after all mal should know) then you have a small issue somewhere and running 98 is masking the issue. look for a vacuum leak, it could be a split hose anywhere, 3 major hoses that split are the pvc hose, the hose that goes from the back rocker cover to the air cleaner piping, and the brake hose. check all the smaller hoses as well, the brake booster itself can leak (with the car running keep pumping the brake peddle and if the engine starts to run rough after that then its leaking) the seals where the injectors sit on the heads can leak. the idle air mixture screw at the throttle body can leak as well, also the isc can leak. and lastly, if you use one servo all the time, change to another servo and see what happens. (do this at your own risk and only when the engine is ice cold. the way i check for these type of leaks is spraying just a little bit of carby cleaner at the suspected area, you will notice a huge difference in engine idle when the carby cleaner hits a leak).

I have never put 91 in my car since getting the 75 engine, and never would.

Someone with a 380 could correct me but I believe 95 is the minimum recommended fuel.
The reason ralliart engines run the lower compression than the 75 engine was to make it 91 suitable, afaik.

I have had to use 95 a few times, without issue, but I stick to 98 where possible.


Mine ran ok on a ralliart tune, although lower revs slightly rougher.

I have never put 91 in my car since getting the 75 engine, and never would.

Someone with a 380 could correct me but I believe 95 is the minimum recommended fuel.

I have had to use 95 a few times, without issue, but I stick to 98 where possible.


Minimum in a 380 is 91.

I run 91 in my 6G75 TE wagon (running a 3.5L ECU) and 91 in my 380 without any issues.

I fill up with premium every other month just in case however don't really see any benefit personally with the higher octane fuel.

380's are even E10 compatable (god forbid putting it in though) but in my wagon I run 91 all the time unless I have the car empty and on a trip such as the trip to Coffs in October. Reason being is when the car is down here is full of stuff (about 400kg at min) and thus uses more fuel, often is driven VERY short distances as well. Given these conditions I use the 91 as I refuse to pay 18c a liter more for something I will use up just as fast, often I use fuel from the wrecked cars I get in so who knows what that stuff has in it.

OP, you are the guy from Mildura I gather, I remember as you supplied the motor for me to convert and fit, prob the only motor I have fitted I have not first supplied :) Your issue could be as simple as driving style (ie too low revs and with too much throttle in traffic) or could be something else. If I remember your cat was blocked but you had also had another mechanic play fuel systems as well. Perhaps time for a new filter and perhaps even a new fuel pump as from memory the car itself had done quite a few km's as well

Yes you have a good memory there, and the pinging only happens when I make it happen, so doesn't do it on a normal commute.. so yeah to low revs and giving it too much throttle, or high revs but only makes the pinging in hot weather and it's not a constant thing, and it doesn't do it at all with the 98 octane now.. My original question which I should've been more clear about is has anyone else had there engine pinging, even slightly (not under normal driving conditions) because my old engine I could drive as stupid as I wanted and never made a noise

i have a 3.5l tj with ralli art cams and an rpw performance manifold and suffered from piston ping not long ago, its really a matter of ruling things out, start with the vacuum leaks first, its the cheapest way, as i have stated previously. and after your confident there is no leaks anywhere, then check the fuel system. as mel said, might need a new fuel pump/fuel filter. mine was air leaks, i has 3 leaky seals at the base of my injectors.

I have a KH auto and get some solid pinging if it's over about 35*C and I give it WOT run from standstill.
After half a million Kms, I forgive it since the injectors have never been cleaned and it throws temp sensor and barametric sensor codes.
Doesn't ping on gas, just on 91.

One day I'll get around to replacing the sensors, might even clean the injectors when I pull the UIM to do rocker cover gaskets.