View Full Version : Engine noise and smoke
Missmaggie
06-01-2014, 10:41 AM
Hi
I just want some advice. I have a 97 magna executive. My problems began with my engine using oil. Apart from that things were fine. She ran quiet and smooth. I use this car for work and have done about 7000 km in the last 4 months.
To remedy the oil consumption I decided to do an oil change and put in thicker oil with some Nikon stop leak to see if that would help the seals. The car only blows blue smoke in deceleration and just after pick up. Seems ok up hill etc.
Now my magna is making this loud ticking noise intermittently. It seems worse after a longer drive. Whine started again it is quiet again. It seems to be coming from the firewall side of the engine toward back of car. It's quite loud and people stare.
I am thinking about getting another engine. The oil consumption is not as bad now but the noise is a worry. Not sure if they are related. I do t really want to get another car as this one suits me well and is nice to drive plus good on fuel.
Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Missy
Millenium7
06-01-2014, 11:16 AM
Considering these cars are so utterly cheap, i'd say just get another one. And upgrade to the Verada while you are at it (Y)
I'm sure there will be some people who can help with the actual issues if you'd rather go that way
RonRabbit99
06-01-2014, 12:14 PM
What thickness of oil did you use? 15W-?? or 20W-??
I understand the first lower number relates to viscosity at lower temps (W=winter) and the second number is viscosity at higher temps (I could be wrong here) so a 10W40 is thicker at lower temps than a 5W/40 similarly the last number relates to viscosity at higher temps. If that number is too low then the oil may be too thin at hot temps.
My 2cents is the loud ticking may be from oil not reaching the upper parts of the engine.
Missmaggie
06-01-2014, 12:40 PM
Hi milenium7 unfortunately I'm on a very tight budget at the moment. I really like this car so I would like to keep it. Everything else works fine but engines are pretty important lol. But having said that I've looked around On The net and the verandas are pretty cheap.
Ronrabbit I was using 10w 40 but changed the oil to 20w 50 to try to slow the oil consumption. It is using less but now making awful rattle. It does quieter right down at times. Gets worse when hot I think.
I would like to keep the car because everything else is fine. The a/c works and it has a great stereo and the brakes suspension and all are great too. Its a manual and very good on fuel for a v6.
Cheers
Missy
ammerty
06-01-2014, 01:03 PM
If you're running 20w50 and Nulon Stop Leak, then you're running quite a thick mix, and the rattle would likely have more to do with the oil not reaching where it should in the valvetrain.
Even 20w50 oil alone is rather thick for the 6G engine, if you're having valve stem seal issues, maybe consider a 15w40 or 15w50 oil and reassess from there.
Missmaggie
06-01-2014, 01:22 PM
Hi ammerty I do think its worsened since the oil change. But I don't know why it's so random. One day it's making a racket next thing it's gone quiet.
Ensoniq5
06-01-2014, 03:00 PM
From what I gather on this site, Penrite HPR10 is generally considered to be the right oil for 6G engines and it seems to run smoke-free in my TJ with 275,000km. Probably changing back to the thinner oil would be the go even if it means putting up with a bit of the occasional puff from the rear end, and arranging for a flush out would be a good idea too (rattling could be lash adjusters needing bleeding or blocked with sludge). Oil burning can be from dodgy valve stem seals or rings (blowing smoke at pickup sounds a bit ring-ish) or a couple of other places that are worth eliminating before writing the motor off, for example if your PCV system is blocked you'll tend to burn oil (and stop-leak won't help this in the least). Best advice would be to take it to a pro who knows Magnas.
Madmagna
06-01-2014, 03:23 PM
What thickness of oil did you use? 15W-?? or 20W-??
I understand the first lower number relates to viscosity at lower temps (W=winter) and the second number is viscosity at higher temps (I could be wrong here) so a 10W40 is thicker at lower temps than a 5W/40 similarly the last number relates to viscosity at higher temps. If that number is too low then the oil may be too thin at hot temps.
My 2cents is the loud ticking may be from oil not reaching the upper parts of the engine.
Please google oil ratings. W does not equal winter :)
RonRabbit99
07-01-2014, 06:28 AM
Please google oil ratings. W does not equal winter :)
Hi Mal, I looked at this one;
http://www.racq.com.au/motoring/cars/car_advice/car_fact_sheets/understanding_engine_oil_designations
Not sure where the offical designations originate from ?
jdisnow
08-01-2014, 06:17 AM
My (limited) knowledge would say..
1) All oils over 20w are given the W to denote weight, not winter.
2) The lower number denotes the mL / sec squared, to pass through a cold cranking simulating viscometer, which is a device that measures oil flow through a screen at normal (range of) cold starting engine temps.
3) The higher number denotes the time taken for the same oil to pass through a gauged orifice at or above 100C.
4) Multigrade oils mass pass both the high number and low number test to be given there viscosity rating.
5) Because multigrade oils (most) go above 20 weight, they are therefore given the W to denote Weight not Winter.
In simple terms...put a measured amount of room temp oil into a funnel with a screen....amount in mL /sec squared that passes through is the lower number. Repeat the test minus the screen, and with oil at 100C, gives you the upper number.
That is the US SAE (society of automotive engineers) viscosity test for engine oil.
Military uses another system called MilSpec...where the required specs are published, and if the product meets or exceeds the spec, it is given the MilSpec number.
Jet Aircraft use a similar system to MilSpec, but the oils most turbine engines use (Eg MJ2) are a distilled phosphate ester base.
(12 years as an aircraft engineer fixing everything from fighters to concorde!)
Missmaggie
08-01-2014, 06:22 PM
Hi all
Thanks to all who replied to my query. The noise has hopefully been cured. I made a video trying to pinpoint the sound and right at the end of my film I noticed the harmonic balancer was wobbling. It was the source of the ticking noise. Sounded just like tapper noise. Now it's been replaced. And the rattle is gone. The entire centre if the pulley was disconnected from the outside and it was only being held together by the belts.
So anyone else with odd noises shoild have a look at that as a possible cause. Mines been making noise for months.
Cheers
Missy
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