I've done an oil change on the Magna TH but there's a small leak from the oil drain plug. I thought I read that there was a gasket on the oil drain plug but on mine all I think I've got is a metal washer. Should there me a rubber? gasket as well? I've tightened the oil drain plug nut as tight as I can go, maybe I could get it slightly tighter with some extra leverage.

Most mechanics ive seen that do it use some sort of silicone to stop the leaks, rub a little bit around the drain plug and then screw on, stops leaks, but in all honesty my ts although a different model has never had the silicone on it and has never leaked, its also a big 15/16 size metal bolt, so maybe you should see if your bolts in anyway damaged?

Metal washer on some designs, others have a single rubber "O" ring.
Specified torque is 42 Nm, NOT "as tight as I can get it", because you may damage the head of the bolt, strip the bolt or sump thread, or never being able to undo it again.
Pull the plug out and check if the thread is damaged - then again if it is not leaking badly, leave it until next oil change.

+1 Max.
Very easy to over-torque the sump plug, so that the next time you go to do an oil change it wont budge and you end up rounding it off. Then you're in a world of pain to get it loose.
Best bet is to nip down to your local Mitsu stealership and buy a 380 sump plug, before you touch the existing plug. 17mm head instead of 24mm, and much bigger 'land', so much reduced likelihood of rounding it off.
Only 4 or 5 bux, well worth the investment.

Very easy to over-torque the sump plug, so that the next time you go to do an oil change it wont budge and you end up rounding it off. Then you're in a world of pain to get it loose.


Nah! Just half an hour on your back under the car with an angle grinder covering your face with hot sparks while you shave the head of the bolt paper thin. Easy as!

I've got my 2 Magnas converted to 380 plugs. lol

Thanks for the quick replies! The last oil change was done by the mechanic (or at least I hope he did it) and the nut was on very tight, I had to use a cordless impact driver to get it off. I was gentle but not sure if I damaged the thread. The bolt was not damaged and threaded ok for the first few turns but then I needed to use the socket to get it to go further. The leak is not bad but I think I'll get a replacement plug. Anyone know what the thread size is on the plug? Got heaps of bolts here at home as well as taps in case I need to fix the thread.

If the thread is U/S, I think you can use a spark plug as a temporary plug. From memory, the thread is the same. I certainly have used a spark plug washer in an emergency.

Spare plugs (smaller 17mm head) are also available from Autobarn etc., just quote your model (all the same thread on 3rd Gens & 380 AFAIK). If you needed the socket to run the bolt in (before hitting the washer) it sounds like there's a problem, ie. stuffed thread or bits of metal fouling the thread or washer. I'd source a replacement plug, pull the old one, give the sump thread and washer face a good clean up, and run the new one in. Def shouldn't leak at spec torque, without silicone, and +1 on not overtightening.

Spare plugs (smaller 17mm head) are also available from Autobarn etc., just quote your model (all the same thread on 3rd Gens & 380 AFAIK). If you needed the socket to run the bolt in (before hitting the washer) it sounds like there's a problem, ie. stuffed thread or bits of metal fouling the thread or washer. I'd source a replacement plug, pull the old one, give the sump thread and washer face a good clean up, and run the new one in. Def shouldn't leak at spec torque, without silicone, and +1 on not overtightening.
Pretty sure that the bolt's thread is ok, suspect that the plug hole may be the issue, won't i need a tap to fix this? By the way just put 4 litres of quality oil into this, suppose i'll have to drain that into a container and recycle.

not if you tip the car upside down

+1 Max.
Very easy to over-torque the sump plug, so that the next time you go to do an oil change it wont budge and you end up rounding it off. Then you're in a world of pain to get it loose.
Best bet is to nip down to your local Mitsu stealership and buy a 380 sump plug, before you touch the existing plug. 17mm head instead of 24mm, and much bigger 'land', so much reduced likelihood of rounding it off.
Only 4 or 5 bux, well worth the investment.

im sorry, but a 380 sump plug being $4-$5....where?, at Mitsubishi Queensland here they start from $13 no matter who you phone

im sorry, but a 380 sump plug being $4-$5....where?, at Mitsubishi Queensland here they start from $13 no matter who you phone

Correct. List price that MMAL sets is $11.90+gst ($13.09)
You're dreamin' Max... lol

Oi!!!!!!
I never suggested price!
Bought mine at Supercheap anyway. lol

(I think the Mitsu one is the Titanium/gold plated version . . . . lol)

When my factory warranty ended (TH Wagon) I did the first oil change (or tried to) the sump plug was stuck - I used a 3 foot bar on the socket wrench - and the socket broke - tried a spanner - broke... Took it back the dealer and asked if Hercules could take the plug out - I got a loaner car for 24 hours as they had to remove the sump and refit the gaskets after heat torching it out... after that I always had to use 2 of the standard oil seal washers - Yep that $ add on to the bill for a new washer does do something, maybe get a factory seal?

Yes definately do not over tighten. There should be no leaking with just a moderate amount of tightning. I had to get the oil sump plug on my old TS and the gearbox oil plug on my TJ welded off thanks to idiot mechanics way overtightining.

The TS was so bad the metal washer didn't even look like a washer just a pancaked piece of metal and the nut head was already mangled before I even started on it. Took it back to the last mechanic that touched it when I had no luck and they were like "wow who did the last oil change on this?" to which i replied "you guys".... all i got was silence and not even an offer to take responsibilty and fix it. Obvioulsy I never went back to that workshop.

And I highly recommend replacing the bolt with something that has a smaller and taller head as others have suggested. The guy i got to weld off the bolt on the TS was nice enough to give me one even though i had a new factory replacement. Makes future oil changes much easier.

This thread is a good commercial for buying and using a torque wrench!

Hint: Once the bolt is loose, it should just unscrew the rest of the way by using your fingers.
If it is tight all the way to the extent it needs a spanner to unwind it, check the thread on the bolt and the sump hole, odds are one or both are distorted.

Just found out that the thread size is M14 x 1.5 and though I have a number of taps I don't have this one. On a brighter note I've checked again for leaks but haven't had any since the first night after the oil change.

Just did an oil change on my TL, the first since putting in a 380 sump plug + metal washer.
Washer was distorted (flattened) slightly, because I used 50 Nm when I put it in the first time. Not too bad though, so I've reused it - must get some more washers though.
Using the deeper head on the sump plug makes it a joy to get under the car for an oil change, came off easily, zero grunting or swearing involved. Strangely enough a 5/8 inch socket is a perfect fit for the head. lol

Did my usual checks while under there.
Driveshaft boots and steering rack boots still ok, as are ball joint boots. Seems to have acquired a few extra dents in the exhaust heatshields and a crack in the front plastic splash guard. I'm blaming the country driving my daughter is doing in this car. lol