Firstly I have checked for other threads and nothing seems to cover what is driving my crazy.

The bigger job - I am renewing my rocker cover and spark plug tube gaskets. That's all going well.

Whilst I'm doing the above I wish to completely remove my throttle body and clean it on the bench. I am used to dealing with fly by wire models which are much simpler. I've done this kind of thing many times.

I have referred to my workshop manual (next to useless), YouTube, Google, and checked around this forum. Nothing is telling me what I need to know.

I have removed the 4 bolts, and 4 hoses (I think it was 4),... no problem there.

I believe I need to remove the throttle cable. I can't work out where it attaches and how to release it.

Also it feels like there is another bolt down below the cable somewhere that needs to be taken out. Is this true?

Can someone point me in the right direction? (and I don't mean the nut house) :nuts:

Thanks guys :woot:

Turn the throttle wheel at the back of the TB so that the throttle butterfly is wide open, this will create slack in the cable and you'll see where it connects and where it can be undone, it slots in and out, you'll need a flat blade screwdriver to pry it out, and you'll need to slot it back in the same way to refit.
There's a fifth bolt under the throttle body at the rear of the manifold, on a bracket.

Like Ammerty said - with mine though, it was simpler - no screwdriver needed to remove it once I opened the throttle.

Turn the throttle wheel at the back of the TB so that the throttle butterfly is wide open, this will create slack in the cable and you'll see where it connects and where it can be undone, it slots in and out, you'll need a flat blade screwdriver to pry it out, and you'll need to slot it back in the same way to refit.
There's a fifth bolt under the throttle body at the rear of the manifold, on a bracket.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/0xyZlcwOWyYNDKZ2bft5_-NfdiYxwkLyrAEbjbiennA=w752-h564

Thanks ammerty. I found the bolt you told me about and can kind of see where the cable connects. I'm not real keen about prying it out with a screw driver. I guess it's one of those things you need to see someone do in front of you before it clicks (which is why I love Youtube). Then it would be easy.

In the end the throttle body was not too bad and cleaned up well. I doubt there is much more I could do on a bench.

I wish the inside of the rocker covers was as clean. I can't believe the amount of crud (oil sludge) I'm finding. For the record I've only owned the vehicle for 1 month and would never let an engine get in this condition.

Have a go with your fingers. Pull the cable from the throttle side of the body and this creates some slack. Once you have some slack, use the other hand to manipulate the cable from the plate. Its just like a bicycle brake cable. There is a slot that i't slides out from. To get it back out past the plate, you again need to turn the throttle by hand otherwise the gap isn't big enough. If that makes sense?

I agree, its easier if you can see it, but I'd still give it a go if I were you. You can't really do any damage and its quite simple when you try.

cheers

Have a go with your fingers. Pull the cable from the throttle side of the body and this creates some slack. Once you have some slack, use the other hand to manipulate the cable from the plate. Its just like a bicycle brake cable. There is a slot that i't slides out from. To get it back out past the plate, you again need to turn the throttle by hand otherwise the gap isn't big enough. If that makes sense?

I agree, its easier if you can see it, but I'd still give it a go if I were you. You can't really do any damage and its quite simple when you try.

cheers

Benno is right, really once a bit of slack is created, jiggling the cable and sliding out of the slot should be all thats needed. It looks more complicated than it is.

Have a go with your fingers. Pull the cable from the throttle side of the body and this creates some slack. Once you have some slack, use the other hand to manipulate the cable from the plate. Its just like a bicycle brake cable. There is a slot that i't slides out from. To get it back out past the plate, you again need to turn the throttle by hand otherwise the gap isn't big enough. If that makes sense?

I agree, its easier if you can see it, but I'd still give it a go if I were you. You can't really do any damage and its quite simple when you try.

cheers

b1benno. I'll give it a go in the morning with fresh eyes and sunlight.

I've packed it in for the night Zzzzzz :2cool:

Good luck. Removing it all made it tonnes easier for me. Cheers

Re the sludge or 'varnish', mine looks at least as bad as yours inside. My PCV system was blocked when I bought it (and for a while after before I realised), I suspect this was the cause of most of it as the fumes had nowhere to go. Make sure yours is breathing properly, the cross pipe in particular seems prone to blockage (the pipe from the rear cover to the front cover) as well as the baffles in the covers themselves.

Re the sludge or 'varnish', mine looks at least as bad as yours inside. My PCV system was blocked when I bought it (and for a while after before I realised), I suspect this was the cause of most of it as the fumes had nowhere to go. Make sure yours is breathing properly, the cross pipe in particular seems prone to blockage (the pipe from the rear cover to the front cover) as well as the baffles in the covers themselves.

Thanks Ensoniq5. The PCV valve was the first thing I replaced when I bought the vehicle. It was completely gummed up. They cost bugger-all,... there is no reason not to replace them every 40,000km as is prescribed. I think many people simply overlook them.

In regards to the cross hose you are right. I've already completed the front gaskets and have only the rear to complete. I remember the hose was full of crud and I cleaner it as best as I could from that end. Now that I have the hose off it will be getting a good cleaning in the morning.

The rocker covers themselves look disgustingly dirty.

I can't believe how rock hard, yet brittle the gaskets were compared to the new ones. I doubt the previous owner ever replaced them...

I wasn't able to clear the hose, and it was very brittle and shattering at the ends when trying to take it off. New hoses are available from Mitsu dealers, they are fairly cheap from memory and worth the investment in any case. Re the PCV valve, OEM is something like $95 which is bloody theft, Repco's are about $15 and I can't spot the difference. I soaked my covers and the inside of the baffles with degreaser overnight and gave them a good blast out with the garden hose before letting them dry out, so far they have remained clear. These engines give so little trouble I suspect many of them are completely neglected, unfortunate but kinda a good sign!

You can test the PCV valve easily though, so why replace if it works?

How many km on that motor? Certainly does not look very clean inside

You can test the PCV valve easily though, so why replace if it works?

How many km on that motor? Certainly does not look very clean inside

The motor has 187,000km

The PCV was stuffed. They are suppose to rattle, it wasn't doing anything as it was all gummed up. Yes, could have cleaned it but why bother when they are so cheap.

The motor is/was filthy inside. That was after having done a flush and oil change last week. I imagine it was worse before if that was possible.

I wasn't able to clear the hose, and it was very brittle and shattering at the ends when trying to take it off. New hoses are available from Mitsu dealers, they are fairly cheap from memory and worth the investment in any case. Re the PCV valve, OEM is something like $95 which is bloody theft, Repco's are about $15 and I can't spot the difference. I soaked my covers and the inside of the baffles with degreaser overnight and gave them a good blast out with the garden hose before letting them dry out, so far they have remained clear. These engines give so little trouble I suspect many of them are completely neglected, unfortunate but kinda a good sign!

When I get the motor back together I might cruise over to Mitsubishi and buy a new hose. If it is reasonably priced it would be the way to go and it is easy to replace.

I got my PCV valve on eBay for about $12 or so. Like you say $95 from Mitsubishi is highway robbery.