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https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/CfgdXnpt2uJi8xu005ATggXgk65z7IQMYj1IjUVK9I8=w940-h705-no

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/jsshHecCLbWqf5vwuWiCvHPyebvf7sQ1hseuPV0Bh0Y=w940-h705-no

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https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/68C-5HssoaeplAX3zepU_joDsNescNgHqaRHCPTlFTw=w942-h705-no

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I bought my 2002 Magna TJII Sports about 6 weeks ago and have slowly been going over the vehicle checking what needs to be fixed or replaced. The latest on my check list is the distributor.

I'm used to dealing with coil packs, so I'm after a little advice.

Looking at he above pictures, should I replace the rotor, cap or entire distributor?

To my eye the rotor looks chard with metal flakes attached, there appears to be a little carbon tracking inside the cap and some wear on the points. Also (although not inside the cap) there is oil visible around the bottom of the seal. Is this anything to do with the distributor or just from some other place on the motor?

Thanks heaps for any advice :ninja:

I think the cap and button are fine. If you wanted you got run a fine file over the button and points in the cap. My verada was still running fine with the carbon in the middle of the cap pushed in causing the spark to jump from the cap to the button. Which then I replaced both and they arent cheap even aftermarket.

Replace the rotor and cap if you're keen. The wear doesn't look too excessive though. PS Don't get them genuine, they're Bosch units and can be had much cheaper aftermarket.
The oil leak may be stemming from a leaking distributor o-ring, which will require the removal of the distributor to replace.

Replace the rotor and cap if you're keen. The wear doesn't look too excessive though. PS Don't get them genuine, they're Bosch units and can be had much cheaper aftermarket.
The oil leak may be stemming from a leaking distributor o-ring, which will require the removal of the distributor to replace.

ammerty,

I've read some of the other threads on the subject and it appears replacing the o-ring is a fairly idiot proof job in that the dizzy only goes back in one way and you don't have to worry about lining up piston 1 at TDC or anything like that like you do with other motors.

I bought one of those 419 piece o-ring kits off eBay for $25 or so. I guess I should find an o-ring in there that will do the job.

I guess it is fairly cheap to replace the o-ring and rotor arm. I might see how that goes for now.

For the record I have only just replaced all my spark plugs, leads and rocker cover gaskets and park plug tube seals. Tubes were found to be full oil and leads damaged from oil. I imagine that would have accounted for some of the carbon tracking.

Thanks for you advice :learn:

I think the cap and button are fine. If you wanted you got run a fine file over the button and points in the cap. My verada was still running fine with the carbon in the middle of the cap pushed in causing the spark to jump from the cap to the button. Which then I replaced both and they arent cheap even aftermarket.

GQshorty,

I see one of our much respected and trusted forum sponsors has Bosch caps on eBay for about $87 delivered and some other seller has Fuelmiser caps on there for about $75 delivered. I know Bosch is a well respected brand but in the real world do you think it will it make any difference to how my car runs?

Thank you

ammerty,

...I bought one of those 419 piece o-ring kits off eBay for $25 or so. I guess I should find an o-ring in there that will do the job.


I'd be more inclined to purchase the correct o-ring from Mitsubishi. Its less than $10 IIRC, and then at least you know its the right one for the job.
Replacing it isn't especially difficult, but can be a bit frustrating if the distributor hasn't come out before, it will likely be lodged in there and not too easily moved initally. A bit of light soft-mallet coercion can help things a bit.

I'm using bosch cap and button which I got from burson, by memory gen was about $250 for cap and button.

I don't think it would make a difference if you replace the cap and button on your car at this point in time.

I'm using bosch cap and button which I got from burson, by memory gen was about $250 for cap and button.

Thats not far off what they sell from Mitsubishi ($270) The killer going genuine is the cap: $185!
Mal sell caps for $87, and rotors can be had for similar. If Mal doesn't have the rotor, they sell at Mits for about $95

I'd be more inclined to purchase the correct o-ring from Mitsubishi. Its less than $10 IIRC, and then at least you know its the right one for the job.
Replacing it isn't especially difficult, but can be a bit frustrating if the distributor hasn't come out before, it will likely be lodged in there and not too easily moved initally. A bit of light soft-mallet coercion can help things a bit.

i agree as the genuine seals arent expensive. think the part number was MD619990 from memory

I'd be more inclined to purchase the correct o-ring from Mitsubishi. Its less than $10 IIRC, and then at least you know its the right one for the job.
Replacing it isn't especially difficult, but can be a bit frustrating if the distributor hasn't come out before, it will likely be lodged in there and not too easily moved initally. A bit of light soft-mallet coercion can help things a bit.

The Mitsubishi parts interpreter at Penrith and I will be on a first name basis soon. I've been visiting there a bit in the past 6 weeks. He does get kind of annoyed when I forget to bring my VIN number.

Funny you mention the mallet. I've only just added one of those bright orange mallets and a pry bar set to my collect of tools. I was planning on using them on my suspension, but I imagine they could come in handy if the dizzy is a little difficult. :bash:

It was just sitting there, so I grabbed it for $5. Dissy cap from the wreckers, in good condition. Sometimes you can strike it lucky.

i agree as the genuine seals arent expensive. think the part number was MD619990 from memory

johnvirus_01,

Thanks for the part number but the parts interpreter at Penrith Mitsubishi will refuse to us it, (he recons he can't search via part number). He insists on working off my VIN number to find anything and get a little pissy if I forget to bring it.

I will use the number you provided to see if I can find it online someplace.

Thanks.

...the part number was MD619990 from memory

Correct.

Re removing the distributor, although technically it can only go back on one way, if things are a bit worn it is sometimes possible to return it 180 degrees out. Before removing, take off the cap and note the position of the button so it can be returned the same way (as much for peace of mind if no other reason). Also, as mentioned, it will probably be a bit of a bugger to remove but it'll come out with perseverance. Before putting it back in, clean up the contact surface of the distributor (ie. the bit that shoves into the block) with a bit of fine emery paper to remove any residue or 'varnish' and smear with a bit of engine oil to make it much easier to slot back in.

Re removing the distributor, although technically it can only go back on one way, if things are a bit worn it is sometimes possible to return it 180 degrees out. Before removing, take off the cap and note the position of the button so it can be returned the same way (as much for peace of mind if no other reason). Also, as mentioned, it will probably be a bit of a bugger to remove but it'll come out with perseverance. Before putting it back in, clean up the contact surface of the distributor (ie. the bit that shoves into the block) with a bit of fine emery paper to remove any residue or 'varnish' and smear with a bit of engine oil to make it much easier to slot back in.

Ensoniq5,

All sounds like good advice. I think I will "note" the position of the various parts by somehow marking them, as well as taking a few photographs along the way.

Would you recommend break, carby cleaner or degreaser to clean varnish off the parts?

I think I might replace the other large rubber seal under the cap as well as the o-ring. Can't hurt....

I see a trip to Mitsubishi tomorrow (Monday), or maybe a phone call. They never seem to have the parts in stock and have to back order them from the warehouse.

Thanks

Shouldn't need a solvent, dry emery (1200 grit or thereabouts) should be sufficient, but a bit of degreaser wouldn't hurt though I'd avoid getting any in the dist itself. A bit of engine oil on the emery paper is all I'd do, should give a smooth, clean finish.

Shouldn't need a solvent, dry emery (1200 grit or thereabouts) should be sufficient, but a bit of degreaser wouldn't hurt though I'd avoid getting any in the dist itself. A bit of engine oil on the emery paper is all I'd do, should give a smooth, clean finish.

Thanks

Could a worn out cap and/or rotor be causing rough idle?

Could a worn out cap and/or rotor be causing rough idle?

Absolutely; but it's just one of a long list of possible causes for a rough idle. If you have a weak coil, worn /chard points/rotor, damaged dizzy cap, evidence of carbon tracking and there isn't a steady and strong spark being delivered to each spark plug, it would be hard to expect a steady smooth idle.

It could also be;


Oxygen Sensor (old, worn out, dirty)
Fuel Filter / lines (dirty , leak)
Fuel Pressure (leak, pump or regulator as cause)
Leads (damaged is a number of ways)
Spark Plugs (worn, mis-gaped, oil soaked)
Vaccum leak
Throttle Body (dirty, leak)
Idle Speed Control Valve (dirty, worn out, electrical issue)
MAF Sensor (dirty, electrical issue)
Engine Mounts (rubber gone hard, sagging, cracked)
Coolant Temperature Sensor
...or in the case of my vehicle an idiot previous owner who obviously thought the EGR Valve and the other EGR Pipe (on the other end of the Plenum) didn't need a gasket.


I'm sure there are more things that could be added to the list. :ninja:

Thanks, now you got me into doing some preventative maintenance on mine in the near future! haha