Alright i have no knowledge on this subject but have read other sites where these can be upgraded in an auto to deliver more power to the wheels. Does anyone know anything about this? Or anywhere that could do it?
Cheers
Paul

I'm thinking all that can really be done is to change the torque convertor stall point so it couples higher in the revs, basically changing it into a stall convertor.(stall point is the rpm at which the engine cant rev any further with a locked transmission, like a burnout)
i.e 2500rpm stall instead of 1200-1500rpm and a shorter auto trans life from high input torque at low rpm.

well i have been reading some web sites that state that a good aftermarket torque converter can actually make a automatic transmission superior to a manual transmission in terms of power loss from the engine to the wheels, and over a 1/4 mile. This isnt just one website that talks about this there are lots of them

Heres a bit of info on them.

http://www.levelten.com/converters.htm

Guys there is nothing wrong with auto's, they are a weapon of choice to many draggers etc. The problem lies is with the magna auto gearbox, there is just nothing out there to upgrade to. If you were to upgrade your box, a new torque converter and upgraded valve bodies would be the best place to start.

Heres a bit of info on them.

http://www.levelten.com/converters.htmhmmm!!! This page looks good...
http://www.levelten.com/store/import/packages/parts_mitsubishi.htm


DO IT YOUR SELF BULLETPROOFING YOUR TRANS

MITSUBISHI 3000GT, DIAMANTE, ECLIPSE, GALANT, MIRAGE, MONTERO STAGE 2


but $1000 US right? :shock:

I'm thinking all that can really be done is to change the torque convertor stall point so it couples higher in the revs, basically changing it into a stall convertor.(stall point is the rpm at which the engine cant rev any further with a locked transmission, like a burnout)
i.e 2500rpm stall instead of 1200-1500rpm and a shorter auto trans life from high input torque at low rpm.

he is right, i have looked into this with a number of tranny places and there is no aftermarket torque converter for magna trans. they all just say "nah never done a magna.. :nuts:" what can be done as benau rightly said is to modify the stock one to stall at about 2500 instead of the low 1800rpm. Im sure this will cut easily .3 sec offf takeoff time in 1st.
they can also add a steel spline to make it last longer and more clutch packs for more solid shifts, another thing that will save at least .1 sec on each shift.
that is easily .5 secs off your 1/4, and quicker getaways from the lights. or not getting caught in 2nd trying to lug from 2000 rpm.
Perfect transmissions quoted me 1800$ to do the lot and said it would be good for another 50Nm through it as well. up to basicaslly around 370Nm to be long term reliable. Good value I reckon :cool:

i am currently in dicussions with a US company, are our auto boxes the same as the mitsubishi diamante?
The company i am talking too says they have a torque converter for my car that would cut my 1/4 mile time between 0.3 and 0.5 a second, around US$300 which is actually quite cheap so i will see how this goes with them
Maybe even a group buy if it works out good, might be able to get cheaper then

++++
Greetings All.



Maybe even a group buy if it works out good, might be able to get cheaper then
Ok, well...Im very interested now :D
As long as this group buy doesnt go through untill early next year :doubt: I dont wanna miss out on this one!!!

But i still dont understand how they actually work...anyone :nuts:

Cheers,
--Tonba
++++

I have had further discussions with a US company and this is what they had to say




A fluid coupler is a fluid coupler regardless of
what its installed in. It can be a Mitsubishi or a full blown dragster and
the only difference would be in the stall math and the settings. The more
efficient the converter is configured, the more power you will have to the
power tires. Setting the clearances tighter is the best way to insure less
slippage off the line and through mid range. The stock converter has a slip
of about 15% and the reconfigured converter will slip at slightly under 4%.
This means that you gain 10-11% more to the tires. The added stall math is
to put you into the power band faster and works at launch only. So if you
launch at wide open throttle you see the RPM climb faster, but if you launch
at part throttle you feel much like the stock converter will but with added
torque multiplication.
Better gas mileage is gained, better pull and less heat as a result of the
tighter clearances. To do this we furnace braze the impeller and turbine.
The wear surfaces are fitted for enclosed bearings and the lock up feature
is upgraded to the latest "high carbon" friction. The KM converter is known
for the excess clearances and we have reconfigured many converters for the
KM application. The same KM converter theory is used in Dodge imports, Eagle
products, the Hyundai as well as many others. Your specific converter is the
same exact unit found in the 3000gt and the dodge stealth. While its not as
common to us as a Chevy lock up, or building one for a Ford, its common
enough for us to carry the parts needed and know what gains can expected. I
wont give you exact gains, or promise you that this will give you the power
of a V-8, but I can guarantee your satisfaction and tell you that while we
offer a 100% money back guarantee, we have not had to refund a dime in over
8 years.
I want to sell you a performance converter, but I want you to want it
first. If you have other questions, or concerns please let me know and best
of luck regardless of what you decide.

or not getting caught in 2nd trying to lug from 2000 rpm.

I hate this most. mine is 4speed auto. between 1st and 2nd there is a big gap and after a tight bend you have to wait patiently in 2nd gear till it winds up :)

++++
Greetings All.

So you would need a tranny cooler as well? Has anyone shown that these actually work??

Cheers,
--Tonba
++++

yes, stall convertors and auto boxes are the key for success in dragsters. Show me a potential dragster with a manual tranny in it....exactly, there really aint any out there.

But here comes a problem when running a stall convertor in our road cars. If the stall speed is set too high, You'll be doing burnouts on every intersection you'll stop at!

Basically you'll no longer have a cruising car. I've seriously been considering doing this, but loosing the cruising factor has put me off somewhat.

from what i understand there are torque converters for street application and for drag application, the street ones will not cause a noticeable decrease in everyday driving quality. This is obviously the type of one i will b looking at very soon

from what i understand there are torque converters for street application and for drag application, the street ones will not cause a noticeable decrease in everyday driving quality. This is obviously the type of one i will b looking at very soon

Keep us updated matey.

++++
Greetings All.

I agree with SLO3L...keep us all updated...cause im sure there are HEAPS of auto drivers that would be interested...

Cheers,
--Tonba
++++

I have an auto turbo car with a factory fitted 2500rpm stall convertor.
Most factory turbo autos have a high stall convertor to put the car on boost as close to standstill as possible with full throttle.
the only noticable difference between my car and a non turbo auto is a slight lag and a little extra slip with very light throttle applications and it doesn't try to drive forward like a normal convertor when you let your foot off the brakes in gear.
Cruising rpm is also all over the place between 2100rpm on the flat to 3000rpm on a hill at 100kph in O/D.

If the convertor stall is too high then you have to build a lot of revs to get the car to move,
Ever seen or heard some V8 on the street hitting 3000rpm with plenty of noise before it can move off the lights?

hope this gives you all some idea as to drivability.

this all depends upon settings of the torque converter, i will be getting it setup so that drivability isnt lost, obviously though i dont expect to get the highest performance gains possible due to this, the company i am talking too has done many of these on mitsubishi diamantes with overwhelming success. They also offer a money back guarantee within 30 days if i am not satisified with the results, no questions asked. He also claims that with this unit the auto transmission will actually be superior to a manual box in tems of performance.
Come on the auto box, dont get a manual conversion get a new torque converter!!!

I agree with SLO3L...keep us all updated...cause im sure there are HEAPS of auto drivers that would be interested...Bloody oath we are!! :bowrofl: What could be worse than getting beatan by an automatic Magna lol

So how strong would the box be once it has a new Torque Convertor? Would it be strong enough to withstand being turbo'd?

Either way, it still sounds very exciting. Well apart from the pricetag :shock:

the price tag is actually very good in terms of performance upgrades, it converts to about $500AUD, if gains are similar to what i have been told and read in many critical articles then it could be the best $500 i have spent on my car considering i have spent like 2.5k already

<censored>!! Only $500!??? I was thinking it was going to be >1500, like ~$2000ish. dam if it's only $500 then yeah - group buy - group buy - group buy *cha cha cha*!

is this available for 3litre n the 3.5s????
is there any for the 2.4 TE
is there is THEN GROUP BUY GROPU BUY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

++++
Greetings All.

GROUP BUY!

Cheers,
--tonba
++++

How much is installation going to cost though?

Probably like getting new cams....you pay for the install!

From what i understand installing a torque converter isnt a huge job, it is located under the vehicle somewhere and is a direct swap. Probably 1-2 hours work max, i will find out the details of installation 2morrow

I have an auto turbo car with a factory fitted 2500rpm stall convertor.
Most factory turbo autos have a high stall convertor to put the car on boost as close to standstill as possible with full throttle.
the only noticable difference between my car and a non turbo auto is a slight lag and a little extra slip with very light throttle applications and it doesn't try to drive forward like a normal convertor when you let your foot off the brakes in gear.
Cruising rpm is also all over the place between 2100rpm on the flat to 3000rpm on a hill at 100kph in O/D.

If the convertor stall is too high then you have to build a lot of revs to get the car to move,
Ever seen or heard some V8 on the street hitting 3000rpm with plenty of noise before it can move off the lights?

hope this gives you all some idea as to drivability.


Mr mquart, im afraid this supplier is taking advantage of you. read what benau has said because that is how a 2500 rpm stall performs and feels. if you want to know exactly how it will be, ona 3.0 with 140kw drive a camry V6. same power same weight, but with 2500 stall vs the magnas 1800.
Yes your launch will be improved, yes you will not have the problem of getting caught in the wrong gear from rolling starts either. But you will have more "slushy" feel,due to more slip. It is not true that only launch is improved. And you never get better economy with more stall, always a bit less.



genuine high petrformance torque converters do not come for 500$, they are most probably machining stock units. modified stock ones can be done for 300$ locally. in US$ 300 exchangesd to A500$ so u r only paying extra for the exchange rate.
I could easily get a local trans place to do a heap of them for 250$ each and double the money for a group buy at 500$ each!!!

and the torque converter is inside the trans housing behind the engine the same as where the clutch is on a manual. yes it does simply slide straight onto the spline drive, but the drive shafts and whole auto trans must come out first.

From what i understand installing a torque converter isnt a huge job, it is located under the vehicle somewhere and is a direct swap. Probably 1-2 hours work max, i will find out the details of installation 2morrow

A gearbox specialist in Newcastle quoted $600ish installation.

I know this is an old thread but has anyone got a high stall gear box yet. I want to know where and how much and if it was worth it

Yeah, I am from the stated I would be interested in this group buy! Can you give me the name of the company. I have a guy you can sell em to me 320 shipped in the states. It has all the good stuff like furnace brazed fins and stuff. any updates???



Edit 1: I thought the stock stall speed on the Diamante was 1450. Am I wrong? I just realized the second to last person to post on this posted a year ago. How many people are actually really really interested in this. I am not sure of what shipping would be but like I said a guy is selling these for $320 US.

How much is installation going to cost though?

Probably like getting new cams....you pay for the install!

installation will be the same price as the price to have a new clutch fitted, upwards of 1000 dollars in most cases. stallie just falls out of the tranny once the flex plate is disconnected

How difficult to do it yourself?

$1k labour sounds like it's a big job?

its a auto out job, and a V6 auto wouldn't be like the old 3banger autos.. it would be BIG and solid. probably take two full days to do yourself if you had all the right tools. on of the hardest jobs that could be done on a car.

im keen, bring beers :cool:

two hours at most to take out then fill new one up with fluid place it back on screw all bolts back in and bobs ur uncle all up about 5 hours of solid work not a huge job

no way in hell. for starters, cant do it by yourself because the gearbag weights probably 80kg and has to be positioned perfectly. and all the linkages and drive train parts ahve to be taken off/out of the box. MAYBE a mechanic could do it that quick with a hoist and mad tools, but definatly no back yard job would take 2 hours in and out

no way in hell. for starters, cant do it by yourself because the gearbag weights probably 80kg and has to be positioned perfectly. and all the linkages and drive train parts ahve to be taken off/out of the box. MAYBE a mechanic could do it that quick with a hoist and mad tools, but definatly no back yard job would take 2 hours in and out

:stoopid:

There's a LOT of f**king around to be done. 2hrs with 8 people maybe. A pit crew or something, yeah?

Changing a clutch for the uninitiated is probably 4-5hrs work.

My advice, if you need it that bad, start saving.

I thought there was no need to take the whole tranny off the car but obviously I was wrong. I am still trying to see how many people would be interested in this.

Ok.....sorry do drag up a old thread but I had a few questions about the tranny and the converter itself.

Ok is there anyone that can tell if the converter has a ring gear on it
or if its on the flex plate? OR does anyone have a pic of the converter? This would be very helpful and appreciated. :D