I am in the process of replacing all my engine mounts. I have done the RHS and Rear, but am now attempting the LHS trans-axle mount.

As you can see in the photographs, I have gained clearance around the mount and removed all the bolts. However although the mount is sitting loose it will not come out. There are 3 long studs and a section of body panel that are blocking the mount from being maneuvered out.

I've tried jacking engine up a little and also letting the jack down. Nothing seems to help...

Can anyone offer any suggestions?

Are those studs removable? If so, how?

Any advice would be appreciated, as I'm kind of stuck right now. :headbange

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NwuIL2b-RV0/Uvhh7zM-g-I/AAAAAAAAAuw/hfpGW36F0yo/w529-h705-no/2014-02-10+15.27.31.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gHmqEBXispA/Uvhhi-t5xSI/AAAAAAAAAuI/SBY0kFHXMDw/w529-h705-no/2014-02-10+15.26.52.jpg

Pull the bolt out of the engine mount on the other side, then jack that end up until the 3 studs clear the mount. The engine and gearbox will pivot on the front and rear mounts, as one side goes up the other goes down. lol

Alternatively, pull the side rubber of the mount, have a look at it and if OK just use the current mount. Why fix it if it isn't broke? lol

Pull the bolt out of the engine mount on the other side, then jack that end up until the 3 studs clear the mount.

All the bolts are already out. The 3 that were on the studs and the large central one through the rubber. The mount is sitting completely loose.

Jacking up the engine does not seem to achieve anything. I'll go have another look....

I'm talking about pulling out the bolt on the mount on the opposite side of the engine, so you can jack that side up.
Jack the driver's end of th engine up until the 3 studs clear the mount. The engine and gearbox will pivot on the front and rear mounts, as one side goes up the other goes down.

I'm talking about pulling out the bolt on the mount on the opposite side of the engine, so you can jack that side up.
Jack the driver's end of th engine up until the 3 studs clear the mount. The engine and gearbox will pivot on the front and rear mounts, as one side goes up the other goes down.

Oh, I see what you mean.

I was thinking possibly doing that with the front and rear mounts, but your idea is better.

I'm off to give it a go, thanks

Tried and tried, just wont work. I was afraid I would break something if I jacked it anymore.

I can only suspect that those threaded studs that go into the top of the transaxle are removable. They are steal and the transaxle is alloy so they are probably only screwed in...

From what I could see of the engine mount it looks like new. Obviously this is one thing the previous owner did replace at some point.

Leave drivers side bolted in, remove thru bolt in rear mount near firewall and then remove thru bolt on front mount near radiator and remove the cross member.

Leave drivers side bolted in, remove thru bolt in rear mount near firewall and then remove thru bolt on front mount near radiator and remove the cross member.

Sounds like it might work. Have you done this mount before, or is this just a theory? (it does sound good)

I'm packed up for the night. I might give it a go in the morning.

Thanks.

I have done it many of times to replace transmissions when I worked at mitsubishi and when I converted my verada to manual. You may need to remove the bracket from the transmission on the firewall side with it gets in the way.

I have done it many of times to replace transmissions when I worked at mitsubishi and when I converted my verada to manual. You may need to remove the bracket from the transmission on the firewall side with it gets in the way.

Wonderful. I really appreciate the info, thanks :bowrofl:

If that doesn't work it may be due to the drive shaft hitting on the frame. I only ever really removed the mount when change the gearbox.

Ok thanks

Can you report back to us how much smoother (if at all) the car will drive and idle with the new mounts, and possible pics of the old mounts as reference to their condition?

Also how much did they cost you?

I'm talking about pulling out the bolt on the mount on the opposite side of the engine, so you can jack that side up.
Jack the driver's end of th engine up until the 3 studs clear the mount. The engine and gearbox will pivot on the front and rear mounts, as one side goes up the other goes down.

DO NOT do this unless you want to be up for much much more than just a gear box mount

You need to drop the pass side of the motor, tighten back up the gear box mount, remove cross member and rear mount, I also take out pass side drive shaft so as not to risk damage when you drop that side and then you can get the mount out by supporting the pass side, undo the mount and then let the motor drop gently until it all clears

DO NOT do this unless you want to be up for much much more than just a gear box mount

You need to drop the pass side of the motor, tighten back up the gear box mount, remove cross member and rear mount, I also take out pass side drive shaft so as not to risk damage when you drop that side and then you can get the mount out by supporting the pass side, undo the mount and then let the motor drop gently until it all clears

Thanks for your response. I think I'm going to leave it alone. The LHS mount actually looks in good condition from what I can see, so I'm not going to go through with changing it just for the hell of it and risk damage like you are saying. I just hope I have not already damaged something following the first advice.

I've got a front mount so I might limit my work to replacing that one. I've already replaced the rear and RHS.

Thanks heaps for your advice.

Which mount is it that is most prone to failing?

Which mount is it that is most prone to failing?

After reading many threads, I believe it is the RHS or driver's side mount according to many posters.

That particular mount was completely cracked and falling apart on my vehicle. I thought I may as well replace all the mounts for peace of mind, but the LHS is proving much too difficult and from what I can tell now is in good condition anyway.

To me the way the LHS mount installs is a terrible design. I don't know what Mitsubishi were thinking. It would not have been hard to come up with a better design that was easier to swap out.

Yes from memory I believe it is the drivers side mount. I've seen these collapsed before on a handful of cars.

How is the car with the new mounts installed?

To me the way the LHS mount installs is a terrible design. I don't know what Mitsubishi were thinking. It would not have been hard to come up with a better design that was easier to swap out.

Investigate how one of these cars is assembled in the factory, and you will soon see why it is like that, and why those studs on the gearbox and driver's side are so long and have a section that is not threaded.

The engine and gearbox are assembled on the subframe away from the car, then the whole lot is lifted up into the body work, using the studs to line it all up.

Investigate how one of these cars is assembled in the factory, and you will soon see why it is like that, and why those studs on the gearbox and driver's side are so long and have a section that is not threaded.

The engine and gearbox are assembled on the subframe away from the car, then the whole lot is lifted up into the body work, using the studs to line it all up.

I have no doubt that the design works well on a production line.

BUT it sucks when you are the poor bastard trying to swap it out a few years down the track. Obviously Mitsubishi were not thinking or caring about that little issue. Then again maybe they made it that difficult to drive business to their workshops. Maybe I am being toooo cynical? :ninja:

Even the Haynes Workshop Manual is completely useless on this subject. No usable instructions what-so-ever.

Mean while I have a +$200 mount sitting on my garage floor. A waste of money. Might try to re-sell it on eBay :hmm:

You can not design a car around what you "MIGHT" have to do one day down the track, lets face it, you want accessible get a T model ford.

Yes is a bit of a PITA but then again yours is prob the original mount so when you think about the 11 years it has been there is not too bad. Add to this there really is no other way to design it as I have seen other designs all of which have their own issues

Obviously Mitsubishi were not thinking or caring about that little issue. Then again maybe they made it that difficult to drive business to their workshops. Maybe I am being toooo cynical? :ninja:

Even the Haynes Workshop Manual is completely useless on this subject. No usable instructions what-so-ever.

Mean while I have a +$200 mount sitting on my garage floor. A waste of money. Might try to re-sell it on eBay :hmm:

Any well equipped workshop could change the mount by reversing the assembly procedure, ie dropping the subframe complete with suspension. Members have done this in the past (for other reasons) but if your home garage doesn't have a car lift or appropriate jacks it is pretty much impossible.

As for manuals, don't expect any workshop manual to include a repository of "how to" steps, they don't work like that. It is more that you need to read up appropriate sections to see how things are put together, and work out for yourself how to do what you have in mind. This applies to just about any car job, from a simple oil change to a full engine rebuild.

As for having a $200 part you aren't going to use, try reversing the process next job, ie work out what you want to do, read up in the manual, plan the steps, then collect tools and parts. Paying the $$$ is probably the most trivial part of the whole job. If at any stage you find you cannot do a job, take it to the professionals.

Any well equipped workshop could change the mount by reversing the assembly procedure, ie dropping the subframe complete with suspension. Members have done this in the past (for other reasons) but if your home garage doesn't have a car lift or appropriate jacks it is pretty much impossible.

As for manuals, don't expect any workshop manual to include a repository of "how to" steps, they don't work like that. It is more that you need to read up appropriate sections to see how things are put together, and work out for yourself how to do what you have in mind. This applies to just about any car job, from a simple oil change to a full engine rebuild.

As for having a $200 part you aren't going to use, try reversing the process next job, ie work out what you want to do, read up in the manual, plan the steps, then collect tools and parts. Paying the $$$ is probably the most trivial part of the whole job. If at any stage you find you cannot do a job, take it to the professionals.

I have all the required tools (and although nice, a lift is not required) to do the job and can manage it. It's just now the case that I am not going to bother as it isn't worth the trouble. The existing mount seems to be in good condition, now I've got in a little closer and had a look. If Mitsubishi had actually designed a mount that was easier to replace (like the other 10 or 12 vehicles I've owned over many years of driving) I would have been happy to replace it for the satisfied feeling that comes from knowing all my mounts are new and in good order. I prefer to replace parts before they break. I think it is called preventative maintenance.

Since we are lecturing each other, maybe you should not give out advice on a forum unless you know what you are talking about. According to Madmagna if I followed you advice I could have damaged my vehicle. In fact I did try to follow your advice (which did not work) and stopped because I feared that I would cause damage (this was before Madmagna told me not to follow your advice).

mmm. ok then.