View Full Version : Thick lubey oil stuff near sump plug?
Hey guys, was just having a look under my car today (TJ II) and saw this Thick lubey oil stuff near my sump plug. Didnt really smell of anything.
Is this just a lube or something I should be worried about?
Still learning about everything so go easy :)
It looks to have spun out of the end of the green thing, and has splattered around in a circle.
Cheers,
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r504/hex900/IMG829_zpsf24666e4.jpg (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/hex900/media/IMG829_zpsf24666e4.jpg.html)
http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r504/hex900/IMG830_zps00b4edeb.jpg (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/hex900/media/IMG830_zps00b4edeb.jpg.html)
jdisnow
17-02-2014, 02:18 PM
CV joint grease escaping in my humble opinion. Check the rubber bootee thingy for a crack /slice.
CV joint grease escaping in my humble opinion. Check the rubber bootee thingy for a crack /slice.
I think that might be it, although no obvoius cracks etc and black boot part seems to be 1cm over the green part and tight
Its on both sides although the other side (Left) has no where near as much as the right side (pictured)
I recently Installed front suspension by myself, could I have knocked something out of whack?
MadMax
17-02-2014, 02:26 PM
It looks to have spun out of the end of the green thing, and has splattered around in a circle.
I recently Installed front suspension by myself, could I have knocked something out of whack?
Exactly right. Rubber boots perish, grease escapes, makes nice splatter pattern.
Probably the other boots are close to splitting too, need replacing. While you are there, check the 2 boots on the steering rack. From experience if one fails, the other five soon fail in sympathy with the first deceased. lol
Edit: grease can escape past the steel bands when the rubber gets tired. Look for splits at the steel band too, and in the valleys of the boots. Move the high bits around with a finger, you will soon see splits.
As for "whacking something", nope, it is just wear and tear (but mostly age).
Anyhow, "how it happened" is much less important than "how am I going to fix it before it kills the driveshaft(s)?" lol
Boots are something like $15 at your local parts shop, or $30 each at Mitsu. Come with grease and new bands.
If you buy from Mitsu, look at the boots carefully - old stock comes with surface cracks, I bought a set that lasted 6 months. Time and money wasted.
Cheap repair if you like DIY.
PS. There is absolutely nothing on the car that needs going over with a grease gun, so grease on the front end and back of wheels can only come from one place.
Exactly right. Rubber boots perish, grease escapes, makes nice splatter pattern.
Probably the other boots are close to splitting too, need replacing. While you are there, check the 2 boots on the steering rack. From experience if one fails, the other five soon fail in sympathy with the first deceased. lol
Edit: grease can escape past the steel bands when the rubber gets tired. Look for splits at the steel band too, and in the valleys of the boots. Move the high bits around with a finger, you will soon see splits.
As for "whacking something", nope, it is just wear and tear (but mostly age).
Anyhow, "how it happened" is much less important than "how am I going to fix it before it kills the driveshaft(s)?" lol
Boots are something like $15 at your local parts shop, or $30 each at Mitsu. Come with grease and new bands.
If you buy from Mitsu, look at the boots carefully - old stock comes with surface cracks, I bought a set that lasted 6 months. Time and money wasted.
Cheap repair if you like DIY.
PS. There is absolutely nothing on the car that needs going over with a grease gun, so grease on the front end and back of wheels can only come from one place.
Thanks a lot for the reply Max,
Would it be worth replacing the whole cv if im taking it off?
MadMax
17-02-2014, 03:13 PM
If you catch it early enough there is no damage to the joint, and only new boots are needed, but if you want to you can pull out the driveshafts and get them rebuilt by a workshop, or just book your car in for a rebuild or replacement of the whole driveshaft with a new one. Not cheap though (I'm guessing).
If you catch it early enough there is no damage to the joint, and only new boots are needed, but if you want to you can pull out the driveshafts and get them rebuilt by a workshop, or just book your car in for a rebuild or replacement of the whole driveshaft with a new one. Not cheap though (I'm guessing).
Thanks Max, might go and have a go pulling it out at the wreckers and go off a youtube video I saw, then ill get some boots and give it a shot on mine.
Thanks for your help.
jimbo
17-02-2014, 06:37 PM
Looks as if the boot is OK and the grease is leaking past the clamp. Seen this on a 2007 Corolla with only 120,000k. Looked it up on the net and opinions range from doing nothing (Toyota dealer in the US), to replacing the entire shaft. Most people were adding fresh grease to the joint and putting on a new clamp. That is what I would do. Would be good to hear from a real mechanic about what they would do. Hopefully Mal will be along soon.
MadMax
17-02-2014, 06:52 PM
Would be good to hear from a real mechanic about what they would do. Hopefully Mal will be along soon.
Thanks jimbo. Is this a vote of no-confidence in my posts? lol
I really think I've covered all the bases and given the OP some practical alternatives. But if you want to get Mal's opinion, just hang around.
lowrider
17-02-2014, 10:23 PM
is it just me, or there is a gap between the join of the outer shaft meets the boot? so the boot may not actually be torn
mine does this, gap between the inner and out shaft. keeps wiggling apart over time, dont know why http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn177/lowridermagna/2cdb58eb.jpg
jdisnow
18-02-2014, 07:15 AM
Couple of bodgeys methods that MAY help..(have helped me on previous vehicles with similar problems!)
1) Silastic (high temp stuff) around the ends of the boot and / or
2) Multiple zip ties placed between metal circular clamp and end of boot. and / or
3) Heat gun (gently big fella) at the end of the boot to melt the boot to the surface and form a seal.
The old "if it aint broke" applies here...why are you so enthusiastic to part with your cash, changing cv's etc?
Once re-sealed (methods above) you can use a syringe (50ml syringe from vet = $3 without needle) through the boot to put fresh grease back into it if you are feeling kind, and reseal the hole made in the boot with a bicycle tyre valcanising patch (be quick with the patch is the key)
(PS...NEVER buy a used car from me!)
Madmagna
18-02-2014, 08:23 AM
This is common on most of these cars, over the years the rubber compresses and eventually does not seal very well, a new clip often fixes this and there generally is not enough grease escaped to cause any issues
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