I have a 02' TJ II LE and I'm wondering if it is possible to convert it from front wheel drive to all wheel drive? Is this possible? I know there are awd Magnas but is a conversion on mine possible, if so how much?

Thanks in advance

It is possible but would cost a fortune and has been asked a few times on here.

No..........

Different floorplan. Far easier to buy a AWD and convert over the good bits from your FWD.

As above.
The isnt the room in the rear for the diff and AFAIK the trans tunnel isn't big enough on the FWD.

While these issue can be resolved with a welder and some time, the cost of this would exceed the cost of a AWD.

Buy an AWD, keep the FWD. One for dry weather, one for wet. Easy!

Floor pan and trans tunnel are different for starters. Then you'd need AWD drivetrain parts - transmssion, transfer case, CV joints, centre diff, drive shaft, rear diff, rear suspension mods, plus AWD K frame, exhaust, and a raft of other bits and pieces. So not worth it. AWD Magnas can be found from $3000 (sometimes less).

Another question, are the magna and verada bodies the same? I know the bumpers are different but is that it?
I may end up supercharging mine down the track and I figure anything more is really going to want AWD rather than FWD. I have a verada and the body is absolutely immaculate, it would be a shame to lose it really. And i'm in the process of doing up the interior as flash it can possibly be
If I did go down that track of engine mods, i'd probably want an AWD magna and gut everything from the Verada and swap it over

Bodies are the same but I reckon you'd be better just to hold out for an AWD Verada.

AWD bodies, electronics and various other components (even down to floor mats) differ but, within a model designation (e.g. TH/KH), the FWD shells are the same as are the AWD shells. Naturally, there are significant trim differences as well.

Bodies are the same but I reckon you'd be better just to hold out for an AWD Verada.

but if I already have a Verada why bother getting another Verada? I could swap all the nice bits over, including all the 'Verada' trim and logo's it would be exactly the same no?

but if I already have a Verada why bother getting another Verada? I could swap all the nice bits over, including all the 'Verada' trim and logo's it would be exactly the same no?
Because the net cost (in time and money) is far higher that way. Buying an AWD Verada in good nick, then selling the one you have, will cost much less than buying a Magna and cannibalising your existing Verada, then trying to sell what's left. Even doing a substantive swap-over means you won't be able to sell either vehicle as a Verada (I imagine quite a few potential buyers would baulk at buying a Verada that's been downgraded to a Magna and your Magna 'upgrade' probably wouldn't increase it's value either), so all you'll have achieved financially is a reduction in overall value. Plus you'll have spent a great deal of time doing so.

Duplicate (crappy connection)!

but if I already have a Verada why bother getting another Verada? I could swap all the nice bits over, including all the 'Verada' trim and logo's it would be exactly the same no?

No.

A Magna with Verada badges and niceties does not a Verada make.

It certainly won't make it increase significantly in value (you'll probably be out of pocket by the end of it because how do you plan to market your original Verada with Magna trim once you've picked it clean of the good bits? You'll get nothing for it), and all it takes to tell the difference is a glance at the VIN.

*I just read Macropod's response, after responding myself, which reinforced my thoughts also.

Get better tyres, Michelin Pilot sport 3, On Sale ATM I heard, or Goodyear Asymetric 2's, enjoy extreme grip levels wet or dry, lighter body, and the cost of the extra for nicer tyres would be roughly covered with what the AWD would have cost you fuel...

I've always wondered if the floor pan difference could be avoided if you used a single piece drive shaft - avoiding the need for the two center bearings under the passengers seat. I mean, it "looks" like the AWD rear sub frame could bolt up into a FWDE.

While I agree, better to do it properly and get an AWD, I'd like to check even if everything I found still proved the reality a FWD to AWD conversion wouldn't work.

On top of all that was said before - TJ/KJ /L/W AWDs also have different steering knuckles & the doors have the collision bars fitted which the TJ/KJ and earlier FWD's didn't have. On the surface the FWD/AWDs seem almost identical, but actually are vastly different when all components are considered, even the body computers are different I believe as are the parameters for the ABS.

Seriously, Wait for a low km mint condish TW Verada GTV AWD and buy that. You will wonder why you would've even thought of the pain, time & expense of doing a conversion when driving one of these puppies!!

If I were to bite the bullet and grab myself an awd, what should I be looking to buy? Budget would be about 5k. Would have to be auto as I cant drive manual (physical disability reasons). Kms wouldn't matter as I'd probably drop a 3.8 in it anyway.

If I were to bite the bullet and grab myself an awd, what should I be looking to buy? Budget would be about 5k. Would have to be auto as I cant drive manual (physical disability reasons). Kms wouldn't matter as I'd probably drop a 3.8 in it anyway.

Apart from the usual Magna quirks? I'd say just the centre bearings and backlash in the drive train. Look for leaks around the tail shaft ends and the back of the rear diff. Check the tranny fluid - if no service history, or it looks dodgy, I'd back out.

Km's do "kinda" matter with these things - the viscous LSD's are apparently only good for 100,000km's before they turn into semi-LSD's. You'll notice this as a delay before the diff' goes from "open" to "LSD". This is the fluid in the Viscous coupling taking longer to heat up and, unfortunately, not binding fully - not completely locking the differential.

I'm looking into if we can have these viscous LSD's serviced, or, replaced completely with torsion type LSD's.

Apart from the usual Magna quirks? I'd say just the centre bearings and backlash in the drive train. Look for leaks around the tail shaft ends and the back of the rear diff. Check the tranny fluid - if no service history, or it looks dodgy, I'd back out.

Km's do "kinda" matter with these things - the viscous LSD's are apparently only good for 100,000km's before they turn into semi-LSD's. You'll notice this as a delay before the diff' goes from "open" to "LSD". This is the fluid in the Viscous coupling taking longer to heat up and, unfortunately, not binding fully - not completely locking the differential.

I'm looking into if we can have these viscous LSD's serviced, or, replaced completely with torsion type LSD's.

Hmm thanks for the info! I'm looking at getting one next year, probably as a present to myself after the Paralympic Games in Rio.

The dream is probably a TL VRX AWD.

the viscous LSD's are apparently only good for 100,000km's before they turn into semi-LSD's.
If so, one would also expect to see a lot of EVOs with the same problem - and for Mitsubishi to have had a lot of warranty claims over it. I'm not aware of any outpouring of angst in these forums over AWD LSDs supposedly turning into semi-LSDs - at any distance. I suspect the 100,000km figure is probably nothing more than the typically unreliable internet chatter.

If so, one would also expect to see a lot of EVOs with the same problem - and for Mitsubishi to have had a lot of warranty claims over it. I'm not aware of any outpouring of angst in these forums over AWD LSDs supposedly turning into semi-LSDs - at any distance. I suspect the 100,000km figure is probably nothing more than the typically unreliable internet chatter.
No, its mentioned in several sources. I was looking at this issue a while back.
Heres the Wiki entry:

Viscous LSDs are less efficient than mechanical types, that is, they "lose" some power. In particular, any sustained load which overheats the silicone results in sudden permanent loss of the differential effect.[11] They do have the virtue of failing gracefully, reverting to semi-open differential behavior. Typically a visco-differential that has covered 60,000 miles (97,000 km) or more will be functioning largely as an open differential;[citation needed] this is a known weakness of the original Mazda MX-5 (a.k.a. Miata) sports car. The silicone oil is factory sealed in a separate chamber from the gear oil surrounding the rest of the differential. This is not serviceable; when the differential's behavior deteriorates, the VLSD center must be replaced.

[11] Donnon, Martin et al. (2003). Zoom 67. Express Motoring Publications. pp. 45–48. ...the gel used can quite suddenly alter with massive temperature, and lose its ability to generate torque transfer.


Of course, your mileage may vary!

<snip>
I'm looking into if we can have these viscous LSD's serviced, or, replaced completely with torsion type LSD's.
Great! Please let us know what you discover.
Surely the liquid would be readily available. Just need some method to open the coupling housing, flush out the old and refill, and seal it again.

The wiki article you cite has doubtful application to Mitsubishi viscous LSDs. Even if once accepts the Donnon, Martin et al. reference as authoritative, what's missing is any implication that Mitsubishi Magna/Verada viscous LSDs are prone to "any sustained load which overheats the silicone" - that's not something one would expect to see in a centre differential under normal driving conditions. Furthermore, the only example cited in the article wasn't a Mitsubishi one (Mazda MX-5), so it's quite irrelevant in this case. A weakness in the Mazda MX-5's LSD doesn't mean Mitsubishi LSDs are similarly unreliable.

but if I already have a Verada why bother getting another Verada? I could swap all the nice bits over, including all the 'Verada' trim and logo's it would be exactly the same no?
Who would buy your Verada that has been bastardised to Magna spec?

If your Verada had been written off or suffered mechanical failure then yeah it's not a bad idea, but otherwise it doesn't make a lot of sense to do - especially when you consider the shear amount of time and labour that would be involved.


If I were to bite the bullet and grab myself an awd, what should I be looking to buy? Budget would be about 5k. Would have to be auto as I cant drive manual (physical disability reasons). Kms wouldn't matter as I'd probably drop a 3.8 in it anyway.
AWDs are auto only. TJ AWD is available in base model or Sports. TL and TW are available in base, VR?, VR-X and Verada. Your call.

AWDs are auto only. TJ AWD is available in base model or Sports. TL and TW are available in base, VR?, VR-X and Verada. Your call.

Hmm now to decide whether to go for a TJ AWD or TL/W. I'd probably go for a VRX or maybe a Verada GTV if I was lucky enough to find one. I'll be on the hunt until I can save up enough cash and once the Paralympics are over I'll buy one as a present to myself for working so hard over the past 4 years.

The wiki article you cite has doubtful application to Mitsubishi viscous LSDs. Even if once accepts the Donnon, Martin et al. reference as authoritative, what's missing is any implication that Mitsubishi Magna/Verada viscous LSDs are prone to "any sustained load which overheats the silicone" - that's not something one would expect to see in a centre differential under normal driving conditions. Furthermore, the only example cited in the article wasn't a Mitsubishi one (Mazda MX-5), so it's quite irrelevant in this case. A weakness in the Mazda MX-5's LSD doesn't mean Mitsubishi LSDs are similarly unreliable.

So mitsubishi came up with a recipe for an oil that lasts forever? Never breaks down or gets contaminated. Maybe they did, we could waste time arguing about it, or, we could bring attention to the fact the viscous coupling relies on another critical part (or bunch of parts) - all those clutch plates. Made of steel. Which, from my limited understanding wears when exposed to friction and heat.

I'm not sure the EVO's used viscous couplings in the higher spec versions did they? Just the GTA? Serious question. I'm also "pretty sure" mitsubishi never used the viscous LSD's in any of the front differentials (an any of the AWD cars). Again, my facts need checking.

Hmm thanks for the info! I'm looking at getting one next year, probably as a present to myself after the Paralympic Games in Rio. The dream is probably a TL VRX AWD.

TL/TW VRX (FWD or AWD) is a sexy looking car.

TL/TW VRX (FWD or AWD) is a sexy looking car.

I know :facejump: I've seen a couple on carsales but they're all 7k plus. I know I'm dreaming but how good would an AWD Ralliart Magna be?!!

Hmm now to decide whether to go for a TJ AWD or TL/W.
AWD came in pretty late in the TJ cycle so the majority of AWDs for sale will be TL/W.

AWD came in pretty late in the TJ cycle so the majority of AWDs for sale will be TL/W.

Yeah I noticed that there were more TL/W AWDs :happy: thanks for the help Red Valdez!

in the mean time you can have a TJ Sports custom AWD conversion kit which consists of:

1 AWD shifter surround badge
1 AWD boot badge

make yours look like the real McCoy without the added weight, fuel consumption and associated costs. quicker than an AWD in the dry too!

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/AWDbadges_zpsf836e3a7.jpg

Floor pan is totally different. when Mitsu started building AWD magna's and Verarda's they imported the floorpan dies from Japan and then built them for the OZ market, America, and Japan in Adelade.

The floorplan difference was noted almost a year ago, in posts #4, #7. I doubt the OP still has any doubts in that regard...

The floorplan difference was noted almost a year ago, in posts #4, #7. I doubt the OP still has any doubts in that regard...

Correct Macropod! I'm thinking of either modding my current car like crazy or saving for an awd next year. I still don't know which I should do.

Save for the AWD and, perhaps, sell the FWD, rather than modding. It'll be far cheaper that way, require a pittance of your time & energy by comparison, and give you a more re-saleable car than a modded one with the same specs would ever be.

Save for the AWD and, perhaps, sell the FWD, rather than modding. It'll be far cheaper that way, require a pittance of your time & energy by comparison, and give you a more re-saleable car than a modded one with the same specs would ever be.

I'll probably end up giving the FWD to my mother, she has a 1995 mazda 121 with over 400k kms.