Can someone please assist with the following TF 3.0l queries

1. Confirmation of the rocker cover and inlet manifold torque settings. Have seen 3.5 Nm for the rocker bolts - do wrenches read that low? Or is a "socket on a screwdriver" close enough

2. When removing the manifold, is it easier to leave the TB in place

3. When replacing the distributor seal, do you need to worry about any pre-alignment of TDC and timing marks, or is the nothing that can move out of synch?

Thank you

Can someone please assist with the following TF 3.0l queries

1. Confirmation of the rocker cover and inlet manifold torque settings. Have seen 3.5 Nm for the rocker bolts - do wrenches read that low? Or is a "socket on a screwdriver" close enough

2. When removing the manifold, is it easier to leave the TB in place

3. When replacing the distributor seal, do you need to worry about any pre-alignment of TDC and timing marks, or is the nothing that can move out of synch?

Thank you

1. 3.5 Nm for the rocker cover bolts.
Intake manifold bolts about 20 Nm, someone needs to confirm this. Even though they are big bolts, they screw into alloy, so don't do them up without a torque wrench.
A quarter inch drive torque wrench needed for the 3.5 Nm setting.

2. Your choice, leave TB on or take it off. When I did the rear bank rocker cover gasket, I left it all connected, but lifted the manifold up and tied it to the underside of the bonnet with some wire. Bit fiddly, probably won't do it that way next time. (If you remove the throttle body, see warning above about bolts that screw into alloy.)

3. Wouldn't hurt to line it all up, but not essential (so I hear). Distributor only goes in one way, and it isn't involved with setting the ignition timing.

[Someone correct any of this, feel free. lol]

Thanks Max

It is a bit of a challenge finding a reasonably price wrench that reads down to 3.5

Haven't looked at or thought about a distributor since I don't know when. I assume that the days of having to worry about the shaft being 180 degrees out, and having to rotate the body for advance are long gone (?)

I bought my 1/4" torque wrench from eBay that reads down to 2nm and used it for the rocker covers. No leaks since then

Re the distributor, it goes in one way only but if it's a bit worn it is possible to get the shaft 180 degrees out. Best to note the position of the button prior to removal to be sure. No timing setting or anything, that's all looked after by the crank angle sensor at the other end of the block.

1. 3.5 Nm for the rocker cover bolts.


Is Loctite recommended for the rocket bolts?

I made sure I torqued to 3.5 Nm but cover started weeping several days later. Re-tightened them but it took at least a couple of turns to get them back to 3.5. Not sure if the bolts vibrated loose or whether it is because the gasket compressed. Back cover so I don't want to have to do a third time

Thanks

Yes, the gasket compresses. Bolts shouldn't vibrate loose, loctite shouldn't be needed. I needed to do 3 laps of the bolts on the rocker covers initially before they all stayed at 3.5 Nm.

If leaking continues, it is possible the rocker covers are distorted.

Yes, the gasket compresses. Bolts shouldn't vibrate loose, loctite shouldn't be needed. I needed to do 3 laps of the bolts on the rocker covers initially before they all stayed at 3.5 Nm.

If leaking continues, it is possible the rocker covers are distorted.

Max, when you refer to 3 laps, do you mean just continually going around several times until all are constant on 3.5 (which is what I did), or do you mean you needed to do 3 separate re-tightens over a period of weeks?