Only days ago I replaced my sway bar D bushes and links, front of and rear. In regards to bushes, I used SuperPro 22mm at the front and Whiteline 20mm heavy duty (including new saddles) at the rear.

I am now planning to replace all of the rear suspension bushings. I'll do the front at a later time.

I have priced SuperPro and Nolathane, but have not decided on either of these, or any other brand at this time. Hence this thread... :hmm:

Nolathane sell a complete rear kit for $384.10 delivered.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-Magna-Verada-1996-05-Nolathane-Suspension-Bush-Kit-Rear-P-N-EVOMIT2R-/140735204998

SuperPro don't appear the sell a kit, but I have priced all the individual parts (mainly on eBay) and can have them all delivered for $435.70


SPF2118K Trailing Arm Lower Rear Bushing $39
SPF2117K Trailing Arm Lower Front Bushing $68.04
SPF2114K Control Arm Upper-Outer Bushing $113.62
SPF2115K Control Arm Upper-Inner Kit $61.27
SPF1953K Control Arm Lower-Outer Bushing $87.95
SPF2116K Control Arm Lower-Inner Bushing $65.82 .................Grand Total $435.70

Whiteline's website is not very user friendly and they don't have much on eBay. It is more difficult to work out what is what, so I did not bother. There could be a lesson in that for their sales team as they would have otherwise been a contender for my business.

I've just made the wild assumption that Genuine Mitsubishi parts would be very expensive. Am I wrong? :ninja:

Does anyone have a preference for any particular brand or technology? If so why?

Can anyone recommend a good supplier? (I'm in Sydney).

I'd be happy to hear any other advice or tips you have on the subject.

I'll also be replacing rear shocks. Probably with Boges or maybe Monroe, although I have not decided.

My vehicles' previous owner already installed King Springs. Apparently they lower the car by 30mm. I don't see any reason to change them at this time.

Thank you :beer:

A couple more points;

I have heard some types of bushings have a tendency to "squeak". That would be annoying.

I've heard some bushings need to be "pressed in". That sounds hard. I'm want to keep the install as simple and painless as possible, without having to pay someone else to do it.

Ride quality (including an absence of squeaking) is more important to me then sports performance (as I have no intention of racing, etc.).

If ride quality/noise is an issue I would stick to the genuine rubber bushings.

Dare I say though, unless they are visibly broken, is it a good value for money proposition to spend $400-500 on rear bushings alone on a car worth so little? Changing something like your springs, shocks or swaybar I can understand - but changing all your bushings just for the hell of it strikes me as a lot of money for very little/no gain.

If ride quality/noise is an issue I would stick to the genuine rubber bushings.

Dare I say though, unless they are visibly broken, is it a good value for money proposition to spend $400-500 on rear bushings alone on a car worth so little? Changing something like your springs, shocks or swaybar I can understand - but changing all your bushings just for the hell of it strikes me as a lot of money for very little/no gain.

So you are saying poly bushings increase cabin noise and lower ride comfort?

I haven't priced rubber bushing anywhere yet. Might be worth the exercise, whilst I wait for more replies.

Fair comment about spending so much money on an older car with a low retail value. I can see where you are coming from, but I like the idea of taking a cheap car and spending money on it to make it like new. It may sound counter-intuitive but you save money in the end.

To me that is better then buying a new car and losing $30,000 or so over a hand full of years in devaluation (and interest if you have a loan). Been there done that a few times. Never again! To buy a new car makes little sense to me. Plus you aren't allowed to work on them or you may lose your warranty. I get great satisfaction (and occasionally frustration) from working on my car.

Stick with rubber bushes, don't know if they're available non-genuine. The only urethane brand to even consider is Super pro, you will however lose ride quality with any urethane bush..... e.g. There will be more noise, vibrations and harshness transferred into the cabin area.

Stick with rubber bushes, don't know if they're available non-genuine. The only urethane brand to even consider is Super pro, you will however lose ride quality with any urethane bush..... e.g. There will be more noise, vibrations and harshness transferred into the cabin area.

The support for rubber bushes being the better choice to dampen noise, vibration and harshness appears to be unanimous.

I know things like engine mounts are available after-market, but I do not recall ever seeing bushes. Does anyone know if they are available?

I would check the upper control arm bushes as they are normally the first to go in the rear, these will probably yeild the biggest improvement. Alot of these bushes will require being pressed in and I know alot of places will charge about $90 to press them in, there is no other right way to do it, Ive heard people doing it with a g clamp but I probably wouldnt try it.

Rubber bushes IIRC are only available from Mitsi, they are worth it however alot of them would not down be unavailable now, Nolathane bushes out of the Poly bushes are the hardest, google them alot of people have had their bushings crack through because they are so hard, however I have them in my lower control arms on the axle side and the VY Commo's Z Bar and no dramas.

Superpro are meant to be the better bush as they are not as firm but I think their support is not as good and parts are not as easy to find. I think next time I get bushes fitted though I will try superpro.

I would check the upper control arm bushes as they are normally the first to go in the rear, these will probably yeild the biggest improvement. Alot of these bushes will require being pressed in and I know alot of places will charge about $90 to press them in, there is no other right way to do it, Ive heard people doing it with a g clamp but I probably wouldnt try it.

Rubber bushes IIRC are only available from Mitsi, they are worth it however alot of them would not down be unavailable now, Nolathane bushes out of the Poly bushes are the hardest, google them alot of people have had their bushings crack through because they are so hard, however I have them in my lower control arms on the axle side and the VY Commo's Z Bar and no dramas.

Superpro are meant to be the better bush as they are not as firm but I think their support is not as good and parts are not as easy to find. I think next time I get bushes fitted though I will try superpro.

Thanks Peaandham, a lot of good advice in your post.

I will check the upper control arm bushes soon, when I get the chance.

I know you can buy bush pressing kits on eBay, which cost anything from $40 to $300. I've never done it before, but the whole process sounds like a lot of work.

I might request a quote from Mitsubishi parts, although I doubt it would be cheap. I had a bit of a look on the American Mitsubishi parts websites (under Diamante) and suspension parts were expensive, so I'd say it would be worse here. http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214581

genuine for the rear knuckle assembly MR223673 x 4 ($6) , 4110A033 x 2 ($22) pressed in. ex japan. + freight

I had to use one of those superpro kits with the split bushes to replaced a failed MR223673 in the top of the knuckle on my Galant HJ. At least i did not need a press but it was squeaky until it bedded in. You will have to get the old pressed bush out. i burnt the rubber out and then gently used a hacksaw to cut the case enough to weaken it and the chisel out.

All the other arms as far as i can see are complete assemblies OEM.

To be honest I think the best thing to do is have the suspension tested by a professional and then replace only the worn out bushes with genuine Mitsubishi bushes.
This will probably fall within your $400 or so budget and you'll do both front and rear, and not have to resort to non genuine bushes.

In my opinion the car will drive/handle/ride better with my suggestion, rather than just replace all the rears with non genuine bushes.

genuine for the rear knuckle assembly MR223673 x 4 ($6) , 4110A033 x 2 ($22) pressed in. ex japan. + freight

I had to use one of those superpro kits with the split bushes to replaced a failed MR223673 in the top of the knuckle on my Galant HJ. At least i did not need a press but it was squeaky until it bedded in. You will have to get the old pressed bush out. i burnt the rubber out and then gently used a hacksaw to cut the case enough to weaken it and the chisel out.

All the other arms as far as i can see are complete assemblies OEM.

Complete assemblies is clearly the way to go if they are available. Next time I'm at Mitsubishi I will see what they have and what they cost.

How/where do you order the parts from Japan? Is there a website? :woot:

To be honest I think the best thing to do is have the suspension tested by a professional and then replace only the worn out bushes with genuine Mitsubishi bushes.
This will probably fall within your $400 or so budget and you'll do both front and rear, and not have to resort to non genuine bushes.

In my opinion the car will drive/handle/ride better with my suggestion, rather than just replace all the rears with non genuine bushes.

I already had a Pedders suspension test. Apart from the rear shocks, front and rear bump stops, swaybar links and D bushes (front and rear) everything was good. I'm only looking into this as there has been a lot of squeaking (plus little rattles) coming from the rear end in the past couple of weeks that is driving me nuts.

Due to the valuable info I have received in this thread I am heavily leaning towards genuine rubber bushes and only doing what needs to be done. I think new rear shocks is the next logical parts that need replacing.

It would be easier and probably cheaper to get an entire rear sub-frame from a newer/low km car and swap it over. You get everything then.

The squeaks and rattles may be coming from elsewhere.
I have a squeak which from what I can gather is coming from the rear window seal, and apparently this is a relatively common issue too

The squeaks and rattles may be coming from elsewhere.
I have a squeak which from what I can gather is coming from the rear window seal, and apparently this is a relatively common issue too

I think you are right. I drove to work tonight without a single noticeable squeak.

When I place my foot on the top of my rear left tyre and push to shake the car there is squeaking. I'm 98% sure it is coming from my brake dust cover. I may need to remove it and lubricate it in some way....not sure yet.

I know squeaks and rattle are fairly common from the rear parcel shelf. I've heard members advice to stick foam blocks up through from underneath, which apparently stops it.

If you have a subwoofer you can download a bass test CD which goes through all the frequencies and it helps diagnose where rattles are coming from if they are just interior panel rattles

If you have a subwoofer you can download a bass test CD which goes through all the frequencies and it helps diagnose where rattles are coming from if they are just interior panel rattles

I've never heard of a bass test CD. Sounds intriguing. Where do you buy them?

You don't need to buy it, just download it and burn it to CD/transfer to USB.
You just have to make sure it has all the frequencies in individual tracks.
If you can't find it as a torrent then I am sure you can go to http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/ and there should be a download for it somewhere

You don't need to buy it, just download it and burn it to CD/transfer to USB.
You just have to make sure it has all the frequencies in individual tracks.
If you can't find it as a torrent then I am sure you can go to http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/ and there should be a download for it somewhere

Thanks for that info. I don't have a sub-woofer right now, but am planning a massive stereo upgrade in the next few months. It may come in handy. :woot:

Complete assemblies is clearly the way to go if they are available. Next time I'm at Mitsubishi I will see what they have and what they cost.

How/where do you order the parts from Japan? Is there a website? :woot:

http://www.amayama.com/

If you're going to get the prices local, try and get the part numbers too for future reference. Without that info you won't get very far with the website. quite often the numbers are different depending on the year of production and the market the car is for. Sometimes the US can be cheap especially if a part is used on a US produced vehicle but to give an opposite example , i believe a headlamp for the last Diamante (TL/TW) is a bout $1000 US, here i was quoted $360 for colour coded TW.

Freight could be a killer for arms though, not as good as it was a few years ago. I did land an antenna mast at my doorstep for a wagon at 50% of what local would have cost. Not everything is cheaper OS, I always try local first then compare.

http://www.amayama.com/

If you're going to get the prices local, try and get the part numbers too for future reference. Without that info you won't get very far with the website. quite often the numbers are different depending on the year of production and the market the car is for. Sometimes the US can be cheap especially if a part is used on a US produced vehicle but to give an opposite example , i believe a headlamp for the last Diamante (TL/TW) is a bout $1000 US, here i was quoted $360 for colour coded TW.

Freight could be a killer for arms though, not as good as it was a few years ago. I did land an antenna mast at my doorstep for a wagon at 50% of what local would have cost. Not everything is cheaper OS, I always try local first then compare.

Thanks heaps for the info. I'll be checking out that website for sure :woot:

The thing with Amayama is that from what I've noticed the parts are for the JDM Diamante.
A lot of parts are the same but for sure all the front suspension is utterly different (JDM car has double wishbone) and I am unsure if the rear is the same or not, though I suspect it is

The thing with Amayama is that from what I've noticed the parts are for the JDM Diamante.
A lot of parts are the same but for sure all the front suspension is utterly different (JDM car has double wishbone) and I am unsure if the rear is the same or not, though I suspect it is

I had a bit of a look at Amayama but they keep asking for "Frame Numbers" and I tried a few part numbers but the website did not recognise anything.

Where would I get my "frame number" and would the website recognise it anyway?

Are the Japanese parts numbers written differently to ours?

What am I missing?

You can just search via vehicle.
Go into Diamante, then F36 I think and then you can check parts.
It's difficult to figure out what is what but often you can google image the part # that you think you need and it may show a schematic of the car with the part

Could try Diamante Wagon F36W, that was built here but 1997

F36A 6g72 , F38A 6g74

F38A US
rear suspension
http://mitsubishi.ilcats.ru/part/market/usa/model/7JE/submdl/F38A/classif/-/exterior//group/34/subgroup/010/clid/1

rear axle

http://mitsubishi.ilcats.ru/part/market/usa/model/7JE/submdl/F38A/classif/-/exterior//group/27/subgroup/250/clid/1

F38A US
front suspension

http://mitsubishi.ilcats.ru/subgroup/market/usa/model/7JE/submdl/F38A/classif/-/exterior//group/33/clid/1

front axle

http://mitsubishi.ilcats.ru/subgroup/market/usa/model/7JE/submdl/F38A/classif/-/exterior//group/26/clid/1

Ocassionally they have a part already here in Sydney, but rare. I think they cater more for the Jap imports here but I do know they have the front strut tower mount.

MR554246, http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=MR554246&cur=AUD

Enjoy