I've been looking at some different rims for my 380 VRX but got a little confused at what size i would be able to get. I also read on this site that the 380 only takes a certain size tyre...?

Might be a stupid question, but can anyone shed some light on this situation for me?

Anything less then 20's look way too small on a 380.

Tyre sizes, quite a few different sizes depending on your wheel size/offset

Here's mine on 20's

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab231/kif_380/928960FD-A4B6-44CD-B526-7D2936AE9534-6656-0000047B5EEAFA92_zpse1179988.jpg

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab231/kif_380/63918D57-FF0D-4083-80D9-BDE0708DB591-15017-00000BA7713A39AA_zpsc2ff4769.jpg

To be honest rim size is personal preference.
Personally I'd go for 18" if you need to upgrade, and go a 225/45/18 size tire.
Make sure the offset compliments the car too.

Keep in mind also that the lower the profile of tire, the less wheel to guard gap you need for it to look good. So basically low profile tires without lowering the ride height looks stupid.

Anything less then 20's look way too small on a 380.

Tyre sizes, quite a few different sizes depending on your wheel size/offset

Here's mine on 20's

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab231/kif_380/928960FD-A4B6-44CD-B526-7D2936AE9534-6656-0000047B5EEAFA92_zpse1179988.jpg

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab231/kif_380/63918D57-FF0D-4083-80D9-BDE0708DB591-15017-00000BA7713A39AA_zpsc2ff4769.jpg

Thanks, i was only looking for 19" and up for size, but im not sure about the wheel size/offset

Thanks for the info,

If i went with a 19" rim what would the recommended tyre size be? still 225/45/18

Personally I'd go for 18" if you need to upgrade, and go a 225/45/18 size tire..
This is correct for a 3rd gen but not the best advice for a 380. 225/45/18 will sit quite narrow in the guards and is a reasonably lower overall diameter than OEM.

The 380 is a big car and IMO you should be going for a tyre that is the same size or larger than OEM to fill the guards better. I did the same with my 17" rims (225/55/17 rather than 215/55/17) and it has made a noticeable difference.

If you go 18" wheels I would go 235/45/18 (same as OEM) or 245/45/18 (about 10mm larger, which would by my pick).


If i went with a 19" rim what would the recommended tyre size be? still 225/45/18
225/40/19, 245/35/19 or 245/40/19.

Using the above logic my preference would be 245/40/19.

It's also the same tyre size as VE Commodore OEM so it's not hard to get a good tyre.


Thanks, i was only looking for 19" and up for size, but im not sure about the wheel size/offset
8-8.5" wide with around a +40 offset should be fine. May need to roll your rear guards but nothing too crazy required.

225/45-18 wouldn't fit at all on 19s, as the last digit represents wheel diameter (18 ≠ 19) lol I don't know how much you know about tyres and their sizes, but they are described in the form aaa/bb(Z)Rcc and are accompanied by a load rating ddX.




aaa - The first set of numbers represent the tyre width in millimetres. Appropriate fitment for this dimension is dependant on a couple factors (including legalities), but most important is the wheel width. You cannot put a 195 mm wide tyre on a 8" wide wheel, nor can you put a 265 mm wide tyre on it (195 mm = 7.7", 265 mm = 10.4" - you get the idea). You want to fit a tyre that is slightly wider than the width of the wheel, to protect the wheel and also give the best performance and safety in regards to sidewall flex when turning - none of this "stretched" crap.

bb - This is the tyre's profile or sidewall height. This is measured as a percentage of the tyre width (eg: 35 profile means the sidewall height is 35% of the width of the width). This value is important as for the wheel/tyre combo to be legal in NSW, the total outer diameter of the tyre must be within 7% of the maximum diameter tyre option from the manufacturer. I don't know what these values are for 380s, so somebody else will have to help you out here.

cc - Again, this is the wheel diameter designed to fit within the tyre, measured in inches. This must be identical to the diameter of your new wheels.

dd - This is the load index of the tyre. The numbers represent the maximum level of loading it can support (eg: 80 = 450 kg, 93 = 650 kg, 94 = 670 kg, 95 = 690 kg, 110 = 1060 kg, etc etc...). Don't be fooled into thinking that the ratings go up in equal intervals, because they do not. Also, to be legal the load index on your new tyres must be equal to or greater than the load index of the OEM tyres. Wheels also have a load rating, so be sure to check that is sufficient, too.

X - Lastly, this letter accompanying the tyre's load index is its speed category symbol. It gives an indication to the maximum permitted speed the tyres are able to be run at (eg: H = 210 km/h, W = 270 km/h, Y = 300 km/h, etc etc...). Unlike the load index, the speed index can be lower than standard (it may have changed since), but then other hoops need to be jumped through to make them legal. Most reputable aftermarket tyres will have a speed rating higher anyway. Also, do not fall into the trap that higher letter means higher speed rating. For example, H (210 km/h) is a higher rating than J, L, M, N, P, Q, R, S, T and U, which is due to the timing of the introduction of conventions, etc.

(Z) - This Z symbol before the R (which stands for "Radial", the type of construction used - all car tyres are made like this) also has to do with the speed rating of the tyre, denoting that the tyre can run at speeds in excess of 240 km/h. When it is used, it is not surrounded by parentheses, just to make that clear. It was first utilised because it was thought that 240 clicks would be the highest speed ever required, so they would be tested up to 240 km/h but not above that (essentially tyre could go faster). Obviously since then cars have gotten a hell of a lot faster, which required the proper designators W, Y, and the parentheses-surrounded (ddY) tyres to be brought in - eg: (99Y), which simply means the tyre can run higher than the Y value of 300 km/h. The Z symbol is more-or-less an "optional" indicator, as you can find W and Y tyres without this Z.


Another factor regarding the actual fitment of new wheels, apart from their width and diameter, is offset. Offset is distance between the centreline of the wheel and the mounting face. There are legal restrictions on these dimensions too, but all of what RV has said is a very good starting point - that is, changes in offset (lower offset values mean the wheel sticks out further from the car/suspension), combined with increased tyre width can create scrubbing problems, especially with a lowered car, but only if you go stupid with it. Again, Red's info is good info.

You can find info on NSW rules regarding mods from the RMS/RTA Vehicle Standards Information (VSI) 6 - Light Vehicle Modifications (http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi6.pdf) (Nov 2013), and in this case especially, VSI 9 - Guidelines for Alternative Wheels and Tyres (http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi09_rev4.pdf) (Nov 2003). Other states have very similar guides too in case anybody reads this (eg: VicRoads VSI 8 - Guide to Modifications for Motor Vehicles (http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/9B3A858D-15A0-4572-90BF-3D08214BF7BE/0/VSInumber8Guidetomodificationsformotorvehicles.pdf ), Oct 2011).


EDIT: Wow that was a mouthful! LO LO lol

You also need to think of a compromise between looks and ride and wheel/tyre durability.

Do you live in the country and drive on B roads sometimes? If yes, I'd go for nothing larger than an 18 inch wheel with a 45 profile tyre. This works for me on less then ideal roads. Where I live, lower profile tyres on bigger wheels end up damaged with subsequent ride sacrifices.

If you live in the city and/or drive mostly on smooth roads, then the look of bigger wheels is hard to resist.

Interestingly if you read up on the physics of tyre performance, lower profile tyres don't improve road holding. They improve FEEL in corners and have some heat advantages due to less side wall flex. Apparently formula one cars use 55 profile tyres.

I guess it all comes down to how much you value looks over practicality. A compromise between the two depends on where you drive.

Interestingly if you read up on the physics of tyre performance, lower profile tyres don't improve road holding. They improve FEEL in corners and have some heat advantages due to less side wall flex. Apparently formula one cars use 55 profile tyres.
I see your point but I don't think it's the be-all and end-all. I would wager that F1 car tyres, despite the relatively high profile, would have super-stiff sidewalls to assist in handling.

I feel that tyre choice is something that's dramatically understated when it comes to handling and ride comfort. Case in point, I had some Goodyear Excellence tyres on my old Magna and they were crap from a handling POV - excellent ride, but no matter how hard you had them pumped up (I even tried 44psi for shits and giggles with no success) you could feel them wallowing under hard cornering. Bought some Maxxis MA-Z1 tyres afterwards - car drove like a go-kart but you really felt everything in the road. Ended up with some Michelin Pilot Sport 3s which sat somewhere in between the two in terms of comfort, but offered a stupid amount of grip :)

I do agree with your point though Steve - your choice of wheel/tyre/suspension will very much depend on where you live, the roads you drive, and what your comfort threshold is. OP care to shed any light on this?

I reckon go for whatever you like on the car. Its easy enough to drive around pot holes, I do with 20's lol. Prob the best thing about these cars is the wheel choices you have with a 114.3x5 stud pattern