Hey guys the driver door lock will not turn with key so am using passenger door to unlock car, question is can I swap passenger and driver locks over with each other to use driver side or is there anything I can use to fix lock.
I sprayed some inox in but still will not let key turn sone help please cheets

Tried a different key?
Does the remote still lock/unlock the car?

By all means swap the door locks around, but I'd start by pulling the driver's door lock out and seeing what is wrong with it. The lock itself may be ok, but the linkages may have a problem.
I've found stiff door locks respond well if I squirt some silicone lube in there, and insert key/remove/wipe key a number of times.

Yeah I plan on pulling trim off to see if linkages are the problem the car doesn't have a remote it's just an exec I'll also try the other key cheers

OK I pulled the door trim back checked out the set up still no luck, sprayed inox inside and more into lock but the lock still will not turn so I undid the passenger trim to change locks over from left to right, right to left only to find the passenger lock has two thin wires running from it back into the loom to the door electrics and unsure what these wires do as the driver door dosent have them.
Any more ideas cheers

Hmm, there is meant to be two sets of plugs on each side, one is a 4 pin and one is 3 pin. The 4 pin is for the door lock actuator and the 3 pin is for the key cylinder.

I'd be tempted to just pull out the driver's door lock cylinder and lube the thing, then work the key in the lock off the car to see if it frees up.
If the tumblers have worn so much that they tilt over when inserting the key, lube won't help, but you could pull one out of a wreck and get a locksmith to change the tumblers to match your key. (I've done this to a lock on a sliding house door, just pulled the tumblers right out. I can now lock/unlock the door with any key, or screwdriver. lol)

I think the boot lock - if you have one - may be the same as the door one, may swap over?

Hey madmax I might try the boot lock idea see if it's do able cheers , and Vlad your comment I'm thinking that a while back I got a cheap 30 odd dollar alarm kit from eBay and a place in town installed it and they had to swap another actuator in drivers door so this may be why there are no wires there now cheers

No worries. However, Max will be angry at you calling him mad.

No worries. However, Max will be angry at you calling him mad.

Not really, I'm quite mad/insane/off my tree at the moment . . . . Got a flu jab 2 days ago, feeling really spaced out!

Madmax I just had a look at the boot lock and it wont work as it has a moulded bit to it to bolt the lock into the boot lid oh well might just have to go see what the lock smith can do with it thanks anyways guys cheers

so the wires running to the lock on the passenger door (as my driver door dosent have this for some reason) what are they there for and what would happen if I was to cut them off so I can swap the driver lock and the passenger locks over cheers

I reckon it is best to take it to Mal (aka mits-fix) for him to have a look.

The piece with the wires just clips on .

Ok but if both doors have the wires disconnected from the lock would everything still work

Depends on what wires. Central locking may no longer work.

No . the wire is just so all doors can be opened from the one lock if its disconnected only the lock you are using will unlock.

If I had to guess, I would say someone has added a couple of wires so the drivers door lock unlocks all doors.

. . Got a flu jab 2 days ago, feeling really spaced out!

Might want to get that checked, sounds like an adverse reaction,

I get an annual shot free through work, never heard of anyone flaking out from it though.

Thanks crankajr but the driver door always unlocked every door as did the passenger as per normal only when I pulled the driver trim off the door the other night there was no wires running to the lock where as for the passenger door I found wires running to its lock, but I will pull the trim back again in the next few days to see if there are wires hanging down then I might be able to use the lock from the passenger side.
Also might remove both trims and undo the passenger wire on the lock and see what it would do.
vlad there are also wires on both doors running to the actuators so the central locking should be fine.
mcx_xi as far as I could see there were no wires running to the lock on the driver door but I saying this about six years ago when I got a place to put in a alarm from ebay with remotes they had the car all day and had trouble with the locking of the car and I think they had replaced the driver actuator might explain what happen to the wires there mmmmm.

The way the system is wired, is that on the factory remote you press once and it pulses the unlock wire for the drivers door only, twice and then it pulses the rest. Any aftermarket remote controls, would have to be run from the passenger lock wiring, effectively tricking the car electrically into thinking someone had turned a key in the passenger door, which would unlock them all.

The extra wires probably go to your BEM or remote locking control module (TF)

Mike

Mike to the rescue. I totally forgot about the dual stage unlock.

Oh ok cool so I could cut and discard the wire on passenger lock as my cars a exec tf with no remote only keys to this bad boy

Sure, cut the wires. Then only the passenger door will unlock when the key is used in that lock.

Read post #13 again. You missed that point.

Yeah I mean disconnect the wire, basically what I plan on doing is unclipped wire and remove lock on pass door then remove lock from drivers door (this lock has no wires running to it from memory) the place pass lock into driver door ( if I do find wires I can plug it in) then insert original driver lock into pass door and clip on that wire that was on to start with and then with luck driver door will work and passenger not just the reverse of what I have at moment.
I hope this is making sense cheers guys