So I have a 1988 magna wagon se auto. And its just sprung an oil leak it leaks from what I would assume is a sencer perhaps a temp senser on the front of the block close to the bell housing its black plastic lobe that bolts into the block and has a wire coming out of it that runs over towards the gear box I have not followed it yet to see where it goes so my question is what is it called and where can I buy a new one?

Oil pressure switch?

Yes, definitely the oil pressure switch.

I bought mine from this eBay seller: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260740569294?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

They were very efficient and it arrived in a couple of days.

is that easy to get to or is hidden behind a metal shield near the shock .. I forget
it may be a tapered thread so doesn't go in all the way I usually use a thread sealer
but you dont have to ..... just dont over tighten it

havent done a double post in years sorry mods

is that easy to get to or is hidden behind a metal shield near the shock .. I forget
it may be a tapered thread so doesn't go in all the way I usually use a thread sealer
but you dont have to ..... just dont over tighten it

Your memory is not bad. Yes, there is a metal heat shield fitted to the bolt of the engine roll damper (shock absorber thingy). The shield protects the oil pressure switch from the heat of the exhaust manifold but also makes it hard to get a spanner or socket on it. Apart from that, the switch is a weird shape. Normal spanners and sockets don't fit. If I were doing it again, I would buy the proper tool, such as this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DUAL-SIZED-SOCKET-1-1-1-16-to-reach-DEEP-OIL-PRESSURE-SWITCH-FOR-OIL-LIGHT/251454585296?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222006%26algo%3DSIC.FITP%26ao%3D1% 26asc%3D20140107090050%26meid%3D574189063583882760 2%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D20140107090050%26rk%3D1%2 6rkt%3D10%26sd%3D261309131797

I removed the exhaust manifold heat shield as well as the small heat shield for the oil pressure switch but still couldn't quite get a socket on it. I had to bend the engine roll damper bracket out of the way slightly to get clearance, then bend it back afterwards. The thread itself wasn't a problem. Usually the leak is not from the thread but from the join between the metal and plastic sections of the switch.

I ended up getting one from the wreckers as theres one close to me with a few magnas it is a tapered thread. Was hard to get out of the car at the wreckers much easier to install seems to be working fine no more leaking. :) there did seem to be a few different types though mine Luckely seemed to be the smalller style.

im having a few other problems with the car at the moment its not starting very easily. Some times it starts first go some times it takes a few minutes. It has a very strong petrol smell on start up (when it dosent start first time) thinking its flooding. Its a 2.6 astron carbi auto
Also when I turn it off some times it runs on not always but sometimes.

Anyone have an insight?

It may be the float, these sometimes fill with fuel

The active first genners here can help with most carby problems

To start up a carby Magna
depress aceelerator pedal to the floor once ... never pump
release
start engine
if it doesnt start and run the carby system isnt set up properly

please tell me its an auto .......

How to DIY
fuel pump is electric in tank
replace the plastic fuel filter
fix all vacumme leaks (critical ) is egr valve blanked off
check dash pots are holding there are two (do you know how to test these?)
set up choke properly (in my TM-TP info post sticky somewhere is choke and carby stuff )
time the motor
set idle speed ... cold and hot (this depends on worn carby and motor conditon)
recheck timing and dissy is advancing
tell us . if someone has exposed the factory idle jet at the back bottom of the carby (firewall side )

options
a uni fit carby rebuild kit
rebuilding one takes a half a day if you dont round or strip the bolts.... all soft metal / aluminium
some carby parts are no longer available
float levels are non adjustable by the factory manual
have to source one of a TP if possible or rebuild the one you have by a carby rebuild service $$$
TR/TS 4 cyl carbys are different (still dont know why ).
yes you can fit a webber but not easy and you loose auto choke

Ok so had a little play today seems to start a little easier now checked timing and advance both where bang on.
Reset idle at 1150 in park/neutral and 1000 in drive.
I belive the manual says lower but thats as low as it would go with the idl screw.
I ran the motor and taped on the bowl with very small nylon hammer while I reved the motor up and down tvacuury) and free up anything sitting in the way of the float etc. Actually made a big difference.
Ill be keeping the stock carbi for this car I have a few other cars that are made to be driven (mk1 golf and an na mx5 both with plenty of mods) this one is too cruise and have a large boot :) the only carbi stuff i have ever really done is rebuild a dual barrel webber and a single barrel both down drafts. Which i found quite easy but this one is all vacuums and electric wires etc so its a bit of a lerning curve for me I think ill strip it down and clean it up during the week and re asemble and hopefully it will work out well ill keep you posted on what happens also ill give your carb thread a read though.

The only other thing I was wondering about is im pretty new to magnas well my mum had a few when I was younger but this is really my first time working on or driving one seems the down change into 1st when im slowing down for the lights is really aggressive all other changes are very smooth and the trans fluid looks to be really clean was going to do an trans fluid change could there be any other problems with the box or is there anything I can do to make it smoother?
(Please dont say drop the sump off the box and clean valves filters etc)

Also what are dash pots ?

Sorry to be asking 20 questions
And thanks for your help.

Do you have a repair manual .if not... a haynes or gregories are very good ...try ebay

dash pots
grab a length of vacume hose attach on to the hose of the dash pot
suck on the hose put your tounge over the hose hole to hold the vacume
if it does not hold .. then replace the dash pots .. repco may still supply these (not cheap )

If it was me I wouldn't pull the carby apart just yet ..... but thats up to you
there is a screw in the middle of the top of the carby (remember which screw goes where )
if you intend to take the carby off .....you have to drain the cooling system to below the inlet manifold

the agressive kickdown at lights may be from the idle situation ..
leave the idle where it is ... it can come lower.. you are only 150 rpm off .. not bad for an old car

very good its an auto (my favorite )
ok this is a TN auto box with the round white plug connections .......I rebuild these
that magna auto design will lurch as you come to lights .. this is normal
it kick downs into first gear ready for take off
you say the box changes ok all other gears so nothing to worry about so far
no problems with the box or internal shift solenoids in your posts

there is only one band in the auto .... it has a kick down solenoid on the outside of the box this can be adjusted .(.thats for much later )
..check the wire onto the kickdown solenoid (front of the box ) the connector wire frays

Hiya magnaswag,
Theres a few recalcitrants here who cant help keeping on going with their old magnas. Ive been there too. look back through the old posts particularly those that have coldamus name attached. You'll find lots of stuff there.
The carby goes funny because of: vacuum motor problems, cannister problems, vacuum hoses leaking/disconnected, float valve sticking/wrong height, small vacuum flow control devices blocked/stuffed, deteriorated vacuum diaphragm in the bowl vent valve, blocked bleed ports everywhere, air filter blockage in the air filter inside the main air filter and the list goes on.
If you dont have the manual there is a good manual on this site somewhere. Its actually for the gen2 models but the carby models were pretty much of a muchness and what you cna get is good for a first run checkover.
Hope this helps.
AND, note magnabuffs comment; "dont pull the carby apart yet".
Rumpfys comment; 'Dont pull the carby apart yet'.

I'm glad that I have fuel injection!

dont mind if you ask heaps of questions

if magnaswag was really keen and his magna was in great shape

there is the option of converting to EFI just needs a donor car

because the 88 TN had it fitted

Reset idle at 1150 in park/neutral and 1000 in drive.

probably why the engine runs on when you shutdown as idle is too fast.
900rpm is the norm (neutral or park) above this and the idle cutoff will be inactive as the throttle butterfly will be open a tad bypassing the idle cutoff solenoid. Vee

I'm glad that I have fuel injection!

****in ay! second that. i have carb and i would roll you at the lights for your efi system. i'm an old hack and have it all worked out, but efi just makes everything easier and tidier.

If you're in need of parts, there's a tp Wagon I think it's tp anyway, but it's only got like 95000 original ks

Sorry meant to say it's on car sales Victoria atm

****in ay! second that. i have carb and i would roll you at the lights for your efi system. i'm an old hack and have it all worked out, but efi just makes everything easier and tidier.

Better on fuel and a little more power

Yes it is a Factory Stock wagon TP carby collectors dream possibly

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/results.aspx?silo=stock&q=((((((SiloType%3d%5bDealer+used+cars%5d%7cSiloTy pe%3d%5bDemo+and+near+new+cars%5d)%7cSiloType%3d%5 bPrivate+seller+cars%5d)%26(Make%7b%3d%7d%5bMitsub ishi%5d%7b%26%7d(Model%7b%3d%7d%5bMagna%5d%7b%26%7 dSeries%7b%3d%7d%5bTP%5d)))%26State%7b%3d%7d%5bVic toria%5d)%26Service%3d%5bCarsales%5d)%26CarAll%3dk eyword%5bwagon%5d)&vertical=car&sortby=TopDeal

but gee 1991 Mitsubishi Magna TP GLX $5,799* $500 more for roadworthy

Yes it is a Factory Stock wagon TP carby collectors dream possibly

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/results.aspx?silo=stock&q=((((((SiloType%3d%5bDealer+used+cars%5d%7cSiloTy pe%3d%5bDemo+and+near+new+cars%5d)%7cSiloType%3d%5 bPrivate+seller+cars%5d)%26(Make%7b%3d%7d%5bMitsub ishi%5d%7b%26%7d(Model%7b%3d%7d%5bMagna%5d%7b%26%7 dSeries%7b%3d%7d%5bTP%5d)))%26State%7b%3d%7d%5bVic toria%5d)%26Service%3d%5bCarsales%5d)%26CarAll%3dk eyword%5bwagon%5d)&vertical=car&sortby=TopDeal

but gee 1991 Mitsubishi Magna TP GLX $5,799* $500 more for roadworthy

One for the serious 1st Gen person!

One for the serious 1st Gen person!

yes thats a nice way to sum up the ad :gtfo:

They're dreaming. Somebody in Glenroy, Vic. has an 89 TP Elite wagon on Gumtree (163k). Looks rather nice except for slight colour mismatch on the panels. He's asking $1,800 negotiable. It is unregistered, so I think that's a bit optimistic too.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/glenroy/cars-vans-utes/1989-mitsubishi-magna-elite-wagon-2-6-lt-4-cylinder-automatic/1042165334?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=MidFunnelVisitors-automotive&mpch=ads

Its a good thing we are so few active posters left .. how many six of us tops ??

Its not hard to realise the TM-TP model is dying slowly Australia wide

I think this forum is the last remaining site for them online anywhere

so its been a little while since i was on here. i have not taken the carbi off as i just havent had time. working 6 days a week and having 4 cars and a motor bike and a lot of bicycles has kept me very busy.

i have cleaned the carby from the top just what i could reach with out dis asembeling it did make a big diffrence the jet on the primerys was pretty dirty. also the choke butterfly was not opening or closing and i assume this is a huge part to why the moter wasnt starting if it was warm (stuck mostly closed all of the time) so the car is now a fair bit faster smoother on shifts etc much nicer to drive. much easier to start still struggles a bit but i only adjusted it once yesterday and i think i went a little too far with the adjustment.
also replaced fuel filter not sure if it needed to be done but a good preemptive replacment.

i am having other issues now on the way to work today a light came on the dash a red worning light looks like a light bulb with a zig zag line though it couldnt find it in my owners manual not sure what it means the car kept driving the same so i didnt worry too much.

also i replaced thje headunit as the standed one would only work somtimes and only am and tape as the fm just didnt work. but to no avail as i think the newer head unit dosnt like all the negitives from the speakers being the same wire, so i think ill need to run new wires to all the speakers :(
also got some new rear speakers. (any tricks to getting to the front speakers as there right up the top of the dash?) ps i have not looked in the audio section yet so please dont flame me for not serching.

as for the price of those ones for sale seems a bit pricy mine cost $489
did need a few things for roadworthy and obviusly a few other things ironed out:)
but thats all part of the fun.

as for changing to efi there are a few tn tp tm at my local wreckers but i like carbis and im learning all sorts of things about a relitivly modern carbi with lots of vaccume lines and sencers.
it would be nice if the car was bit faster and more reliable etc but i have other cars for that.

1-Warning light ....you have a light bulb out some where at the back
2-Radio ..its called phillips disease
3- Add a seperate earth wire to the head unit (common problem ) should solve the speakers
4 -front speakers removal
You cant buy the speakers to just fit properly in the hole of the metal dash part (you will see how small they are)

With care(because you can bend it easily ) lift up the metal panel on the dash close to the screen
I use very thin screwdrivers and take my time
the speakers have 4 little screws ..I use a phillips drill bit and a small ring spanner to undo the screws
that's all the room you have .. (never took a picture when I did these now regret it )
-----
5- all the carbi problems are sortable (carbie cleaner does wonders )

more reliablity comes with time and adjustments (tweeking )

With care(because you can bend it easily ) lift up the metal panel on the dash close to the screen
I use very thin screwdrivers and take my time

DONT forget the wing nut that holds the panel in place which is hidden behind the black plastic hose that feeds the left passenger air vent in the glovebox. The rest of the panel will pop out as they are metal clips. Best to remove the plastic trim on the windscreen pillars to get a bit more room to remove from the car. You need a small screw driver to remove the speaker screws. Not much room but achievable.Last genuine speakers i bought were $50 each. probably not available now but i have found others to fit in their place. takes a bit of searching though. Vee

from the archives

ok front speaker question

SeanTP.....20-08-2003

Correct just remove the top of the dash, these are held in by clips but are also held in by a wingnut which you have to take the glove box out, remove the heater pipe behind there and reach up till you feel the wingnut. Also you will only have approx 30 - 35mm depth to fit the speakers into and the majority of speakers (quality ones that is) around today are between 40-45mm. I am currently changing the interior of my car ( and converting to EFI) and my dash is sitting out. if ya want i can take some pics of where the speakers go


dennystone 12.......... 23-04-2005
To get to the speakers, you need to remove the glovebox. There is a metal strip called a defroster garnish, it is held in place 1 wing nut & 3 clips the wing nut is in near the glovebox a clip on each end & 1 in the middle. Once you get the wing nut off , you can prise that cover off, the speakers are under this cover Hope this helps Cheers ian