Hi guys, after work today I fitted a brand new Bosch alternator to my TE as my current one (2nd hand from a TJ which was also Bosch).

Now on the back of the TJ one, there was a "D+" male blade, this was used by a surpressor that had a female blade to sit over the male blade, but then the black box for the surpressor mounted via a thread to the alternator casing.

Now with the aftermarket Bosch one, there a threads on the back but none are anywhere near long enough to mount the black suppressor to, the blade doesnt lock in perfectly but I can put a more suitable blade on that.

I suppose my question is, with these black supressors sure the female blade needs to press onto the "d+" male blade BUT, does the bracket on the little black box ground anything aswell, or can I just slip a small nut and bolt through the casing the mount the black box?

Hi guys, after work today I fitted a brand new Bosch alternator to my TE as my current one (2nd hand from a TJ which was also Bosch).

Now on the back of the TJ one, there was a "D+" male blade, this was used by a surpressor that had a female blade to sit over the male blade, but then the black box for the surpressor mounted via a thread to the alternator casing.

Now with the aftermarket Bosch one, there a threads on the back but none are anywhere near long enough to mount the black suppressor to, the blade doesnt lock in perfectly but I can put a more suitable blade on that.

I suppose my question is, with these black supressors sure the female blade needs to press onto the "d+" male blade BUT, does the bracket on the little black box ground anything aswell, or can I just slip a small nut and bolt through the casing the mount the black box?

The suppressor is a non polarised capacitor and needs to sit across the positive and negative for noise suppression so the metal tab would need to be earthed. You could just leave it off and see if it creates any noise issues with the stereo. Some alternators like the mitsubishi ones has this built in internally on the diode pack like the one in my galant. I've never seen inside the bosch unit.

Yes so the bracket on the black suppressor would be the earthing point and the female blade would be taking a positive signal from the alternator.

The guy at Bursons suggested the Bosch unit may have one built in, but I doubt it since they have the tab on the back for the positive.

I tried to call Bosch customer service but couldn't get through.

Yes so the bracket on the black suppressor would be the earthing point and the female blade would be taking a positive signal from the alternator.

The guy at Bursons suggested the Bosch unit may have one built in, but I doubt it since they have the tab on the back for the positive.

I tried to call Bosch customer service but couldn't get through.

yeah i was trying to research it last night but without a part number i don't like my chances not that I expect to find anything but you never know until you try. Unless you start getting alternator whine I would not lose sleep over it but I can appreciate wanting to have things right and as they were intended.

yeah i was trying to research it last night but without a part number i don't like my chances not that I expect to find anything but you never know until you try. Unless you start getting alternator whine I would not lose sleep over it but I can appreciate wanting to have things right and as they were intended.

The alternator is whining now, its quite a loud whine too.

The alternator is whining now, its quite a loud whine too.

Oh well, answers the built in question and you need a solution. Seems strange if it's a direct replacement they'd delete the ability to fit it. was the very original a Bosch or a Mitsubishi unit? Any pictures of the new, TJ and original TE alternator and the suppressor?

New Bosch unit.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_7034.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_7034.jpg.html)

http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_7037.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_7037.jpg.html)

Old TJ Alternator.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_7043.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_7043.jpg.html)

Didnt get a real good shot of the new bosch unit. It has studs in similar places BUT they dont pertrude out enough for any sort of nut, and the blade is recessed back into the casing more than the original TJ.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_7044.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_7044.jpg.html)

these bosch units don't have a built in suppressor.

perhaps you can change the terminal to suit the b+ and mount the base to the adjacent bolt on the reg (between the bolt and reg... not the reg and alt). ideally though get the correct unit.

these bosch units don't have a built in suppressor.

perhaps you can change the terminal to suit the b+ and mount the base to the adjacent bolt on the reg (between the bolt and reg... not the reg and alt). ideally though get the correct unit.

I do like that idea, that should do the job id imagine with a couple of washers.

Correct unit in regards to what? This is the Bosch part number for the replacement alternator, so it is the correct unit my understanding is that they dont make them to match up 100%

So frustrating , it they only had kept the longer bolt in the same position. I had a look in the catalog and they quote same unit across the board as what you have. I was thinking maybe make up a fly lead with male and female ends, heatshrink the joint to extend the distance you may be able to find an eart point nearby. A bit messy or an aftermarket noise kit for the radio power lines but again more work and added cost.

I was thinking of soldering onto that bracket, with a fly lead, use the regulator bolt with a washer as the ground, and then obviously use the spade at the positive.

Edit: But yes I dont know why Bosch could help me out with that one stud lol.

Im good at doing the wiring side of things, my main issue is how the suppressor was meant to work and now I know it should be easy to mock something decent up.

trust bosch to delete the suppressor, their quality has really taken a dive in recent years. you really need to fit the suppressor on the alternator (noise source) for best results.
another option you have (that will void your warranty) is to open the unit and swap out the longer rectifier bolt from your old unit with the shorter one in the new unit... thats what we'd do at our shop anyways... (the suppliers dont generally try to do us over if we do this sort of thing).