In short my CV boots are leaking. I have already purchased new drive axles and plan to install them in the near future. What I didn't plan for was the existence of something called the intermediate shaft (as I have never done this particular job before).

According to info from this forum the intermediate shaft is only available new from Mitsubishi at a cost of around $600. Also, I read that Mitsubishi will sell a bearing kit for around $170.

Online, I found what I believe to be the bearing kit for sale at Rock Auto for either $20 or $36 depending if you buy standard or premium.

The description on the Rock Auto website is not overly descriptive being "2002 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 3.5L V6 SOHC : Drivetrain : Axle Shaft Bearing"

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4583040&cc=1387885

Question - Is this the right or wrong bearing for the intermediate shaft? :ninja:

With the kit, you'll get 2 new dust seals, bearing and clip. MR263126 $90 plus freight ex Japan. Might save $30-40 but hard to say.

I'd say that's the bearing but 30day 5000k wty makes me wonder about the quality.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48071http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48073

With the kit, you'll get 2 new dust seals, bearing and clip. MR263126 $90 plus freight ex Japan. Might save $30-40 but hard to say.

I'd say that's the bearing but 30day 5000k wty makes me wonder about the quality.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48071

TW2005, thanks for the info. Using your part number I found a kit for about $88 plus shipping, although they don't appear to ship to Australia.

http://www.discountmitsubishiparts.com/OEMParts/mitsubishi-141/M/MR263126.html

I also found it on eBay at a higher price.

I'll keep looking. Thanks again for the info :)

http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=MR263126

I'd get a quote local first just in case. Also the bracket kit which I would expect is pre-assembled but I honestly don't know is another $60 but if you have the tools and a press.

MR486921

http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=MR486921

These are US Diamante part numbers.

The weird thing is that I don't even know if it needs replacing. Impossible to know until you pull the car to bits and it's a bit inconvenient to order the parts at that stage as it would take a week or two to get the parts.

Do you know if these bearings should be routinely replaced when replacing drive-axles?

My vehicle has around 187,000km on it.

The weird thing is that I don't even know if it needs replacing. Impossible to know until you pull the car to bits and it's a bit inconvenient to order the parts at that stage as it would take a week or two to get the parts.

Do you know if these bearings should be routinely replaced when replacing drive-axles?

My vehicle has around 187,000km on it.

I'm not a mechanic, just an average bloke that has a couple of Mitsubishis. I was going to ask if it was really needed or not myself. If you're doing the work, take a punt and let it go but if I was paying labour and expected to keep the car for a number of years, I'd consider some preventative maintenance.

Funny things can happen when old parts get disturbed. you'd really need advice from someone who has worked on these long enough to have seen it all.

you'll know more when it's out and check for bearing roughness.

I'm not a mechanic, just an average bloke that has a couple of Mitsubishis. I was going to ask if it was really needed or not myself. If you're doing the work, take a punt and let it go but if I was paying labour and expected to keep the car for a number of years, I'd consider some preventative maintenance.

Funny things can happen when old parts get disturbed. you'd really need advice from someone who has worked on these long enough to have seen it all.

you'll know more when it's out and check for bearing roughness.

Your part numbers have been very helpful.

I always try (if I'm capable and have the tools) and do the work myself. It's amazing how much money you can save over the years and I find it satisfying in a number of ways.

As I was saying it is just that both my inner CV boots are leaking. There may be nothing wrong with this intermediate shaft.

I might wait and get a few more opinions as to if it should be replaced or I'd get away with leaving it.

Thanks for you help :cool:

In short my CV boots are leaking. I have already purchased new drive axles and plan to install them in the near future. What I didn't plan for was the existence of something called the intermediate shaft (as I have never done this particular job before).

According to info from this forum the intermediate shaft is only available new from Mitsubishi at a cost of around $600. Also, I read that Mitsubishi will sell a bearing kit for around $170.

Online, I found what I believe to be the bearing kit for sale at Rock Auto for either $20 or $36 depending if you buy standard or premium

The description on the Rock Auto website is not overly descriptive being "2002 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 3.5L V6 SOHC : Drivetrain : Axle Shaft Bearing"

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4583040&cc=1387885

Question - Is this the right or wrong bearing for the intermediate shaft? :ninja:

The intermediate shaft is a pain to take out, I replaced the drive shafts in my VERADA with 250,000 on the clock, the intermediate shaft was fine, I wouldn't worry about replacing it, but thats just my opinion.

The intermediate shaft is a pain to take out, I replaced the drive shafts in my VERADA with 250,000 on the clock, the intermediate shaft was fine, I wouldn't worry about replacing it, but thats just my opinion.

DeanoTS, I value your opinion. It may be wiser (and cheaper) just to leave it for now.

If it turns out that it needs replacing I guess I can order the parts and pull the car back apart a few weeks later. :D

Your part numbers have been very helpful.

I always try (if I'm capable and have the tools) and do the work myself. It's amazing how much money you can save over the years and I find it satisfying in a number of ways.

As I was saying it is just that both my inner CV boots are leaking. There may be nothing wrong with this intermediate shaft.

I might wait and get a few more opinions as to if it should be replaced or I'd get away with leaving it.

Thanks for you help :cool:

just be aware that the only way to get 100% correct numbers is through the dealer with a VIN. It's a pity we don't have a decent online genuine parts system that's competitive here. Some of the common items are actually cheaper than aftermarket and better quality. radiator caps and thermostat kits spring to mind and how many people probably buy a whole oil cap when the seal is available for $1.40.

Here's some motivational photos of what happens to an inner joint when the boot left un attended. the boot was fine but not the OEM so previously damaged and patched up I'd say. Off my galant and the vibration was unbearable at speed.

Sorry for the size, but you get the picture:woot:

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48075
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48076
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48074

DeanoTS, I value your opinion. It may be wiser (and cheaper) just to leave it for now.

If it turns out that it needs replacing I guess I can order the parts and pull the car back apart a few weeks later. :D

Also my Verada had a bad vibration under load like going up a hill, the CV joint was ok but the other end of the drive shaft which has the tripod joint was the problem.

My car has done well over 400,000k's, I had a split boot on the drivers side so yesterday I fitted a new drive axle as that was the easiest option. The easiest way to do it was to remove the drive axle and the intermediate shaft from the car and then separate the two from there. What I couldnt see were any signs of the seals from my intermediate shaft needing to be replaced.

My car has done well over 400,000k's, I had a split boot on the drivers side so yesterday I fitted a new drive axle as that was the easiest option. The easiest way to do it was to remove the drive axle and the intermediate shaft from the car and then separate the two from there. What I couldnt see were any signs of the seals from my intermediate shaft needing to be replaced.

Peaandham,

So when I replace the driver's side drive axle, do I actually need to remove the intermediate shaft, or can I leave it in place and just switch out the axle?

Or must I remove the intermediate shaft in order to replace the axle?

I was thinking it may be better to leave the intermediate shaft in place as to not disturb dust seals, etc, if I did not plan to replace it.

I'm thinking the intermediate shaft bearing is more then likely okay given the vehicle only has 187,000kms

Also my Verada had a bad vibration under load like going up a hill, the CV joint was ok but the other end of the drive shaft which has the tripod joint was the problem.

Apart from leaking inner CV boots (getting grease all over the bottom of my engine) my axle's are not displaying any negative symptoms.

I could probably get away with driving the vehicle for another year or more, but I like to take care of issues before they become critical. Catastrophic part failure always seems to happen at the most inconvenient times...:ninja:

I keep an eye on the boots on my car, at oil change time or whenever I'm in the mood to get dirty.
If I find a split boot, I just replace that. The grease spray pattern is a dead giveaway. lol
I do both inner and outer boots. They are about $15 each at my local parts shop. Catch them early enough and there is no need to replace the whole shaft, I've never replaced a shaft after owning 5 Magnas.
I lie, my TP needed one because it was too far gone when I bought the car. Got the shakes and was noisy when I put the foot down.

You dont need to remove the intermediate shaft at the same time as the axle but it does IMO make life a lot easier as the drive axle has a compression circlip that locks it into the intermediate shaft. To remove the drive axle from the intermediate shaft, many people say you should not pull the axle as it can damage it, and on top of that its locked in like there no tomorrow, I had to put the old ds in a vice and use the intermediate bracket as a place to hit with the rubber mallet to get both apart.

The hardest thing about removing it all at once is that the intermediate shaft has a bracket that sits on the back side of the block, this comes off with 3x14mm bolts (manual says 3, mine only had 2 in there) which can be a little tricky to get to and to undo/refit, but I only had one side of the car jacked up so that helped not losing fluid but didn't help accessibility.

Also I dont know how you will think about pulling it out, my manual says to remove the tie rod arm (so the wheel turns freely), and remove the lower control arm from the knuckle (which allows even more movement), I could not for the life of my get the lower control arm out, so I had to remove the tie rod arm, then remove the struct to knuckle bolts, this allowed plenty of movement to get the axle in and out, but I suggest supporting the weight of the hub at this point with a jack.

I do both inner and outer boots. They are about $15 each at my local parts shop. Catch them early enough and there is no need to replace the whole shaft.

Yes, but the shaft needs to come out or at least the CV joint needs to come off to fit these boots right?

Yes, but the shaft needs to come out or at least the CV joint needs to come off to fit these boots right?

Boots come off the shaft from the inner tripod end.
I uncouple the driveshaft from the front suspension, pull that forward and the end of the drivershaft just pops out. Then I unclip the inner joint, and the driveshaft is free. Housing of inner joint stays where it is.
Circlip pliers on the circlip at the inner tripod bearing, then the tripod slides off and the boots can be taken off. A good clean and regrease of the outer joint and slide the new boots on. Outer joint can be clipped up, but the inner boot stays down the shaft. Clean and inspect the inner joint housings (still on the gearbox or intermediate shaft), pack the inner joint housing with grease, and slide the joint into the housing. Slide the boot down the shaft and over the housing, then clip up. (surface between inner boot and housing needs to be grease free, or it will leak grease afterwards).
Slide axle back into the hub, bolt things up using torque wrench. Probably 60 to 90 minutes per side. Practice makes perfect. About $60 for the job last time I did it on a TS Magna. Third gen will probably be the same process.

Probably need to do this job in a few years time on my TJ and TL when they get to 200,000 km each. Maybe I should stock up on parts now? lol Or at least go and look at them and check for that grease spray - underbody for the inner, inside of wheel for the outer.

mmmmmm - be back in a moment . . . .

Nope, they are fine. Rack boots too, these are easy to check by looking down the back of the engine.

Boots come off the shaft from the inner tripod end.
I uncouple the driveshaft from the front suspension, pull that forward and the end of the drivershaft just pops out. Then I unclip the inner joint, and the driveshaft is free. Housing of inner joint stays where it is.
Circlip pliers on the circlip at the inner tripod bearing, then the tripod slides off and the boots can be taken off. A good clean and regrease of the outer joint and slide the new boots on. Outer joint can be clipped up, but the inner boot stays down the shaft. Clean and inspect the inner joint housings (still on the gearbox or intermediate shaft), pack the inner joint housing with grease, and slide the joint into the housing. Slide the boot down the shaft and over the housing, then clip up. (surface between inner boot and housing needs to be grease free, or it will leak grease afterwards).
Slide axle back into the hub, bolt things up using torque wrench. Probably 60 to 90 minutes per side. Practice makes perfect. About $60 for the job last time I did it on a TS Magna. Third gen will probably be the same process.

Probably need to do this job in a few years time on my TJ and TL when they get to 200,000 km each. Maybe I should stock up on parts now? lol Or at least go and look at them and check for that grease spray - underbody for the inner, inside of wheel for the outer.

mmmmmm - be back in a moment . . . .

Nope, they are fine. Rack boots too, these are easy to check by looking down the back of the engine.

It may be a bit cheaper to just replace the boots, but what a horrible & messy job. To me I'm happy to pay a little more and just switch out both axles. The job should take less time and be much less messier (is "messier" a word). :learn:

I picked up two axles for my Magna Sports for $80 each (plus $26 overnight shipping), which I thought was quite reasonable.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161248950150?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

You dont need to remove the intermediate shaft at the same time as the axle but it does IMO make life a lot easier as the drive axle has a compression circlip that locks it into the intermediate shaft. To remove the drive axle from the intermediate shaft, many people say you should not pull the axle as it can damage it, and on top of that its locked in like there no tomorrow, I had to put the old ds in a vice and use the intermediate bracket as a place to hit with the rubber mallet to get both apart.

The hardest thing about removing it all at once is that the intermediate shaft has a bracket that sits on the back side of the block, this comes off with 3x14mm bolts (manual says 3, mine only had 2 in there) which can be a little tricky to get to and to undo/refit, but I only had one side of the car jacked up so that helped not losing fluid but didn't help accessibility.

Also I dont know how you will think about pulling it out, my manual says to remove the tie rod arm (so the wheel turns freely), and remove the lower control arm from the knuckle (which allows even more movement), I could not for the life of my get the lower control arm out, so I had to remove the tie rod arm, then remove the struct to knuckle bolts, this allowed plenty of movement to get the axle in and out, but I suggest supporting the weight of the hub at this point with a jack.

Peaandham thanks for the info :cool:

So I would be right in assuming the driveaxle from the TE is different to the TJ? Reason I ask is because mine did not have those "teeth" on the outer side.

I bought this one from Bursons cost was $147, $80 is a steal.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_7041.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_7041.jpg.html)
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_7042.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_7042.jpg.html)

It may be a bit cheaper to just replace the boots, but what a horrible & messy job. To me I'm happy to pay a little more and just switch out both axles.

Mess is not something I'm scared of. lol
I don't like the idea of throwing out a perfectly serviceable part when only a minor part of it is worn and the rebuild is cheap & easy. Then again, some people replace the whole steering rack when the boots go.
Each to his own, etc. lol

PS Toothed section is for the ABS (& traction control if you have that).

So I would be right in assuming the driveaxle from the TE is different to the TJ? Reason I ask is because mine did not have those "teeth" on the outer side.

I bought this one from Bursons cost was $147, $80 is a steal.
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_7041.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_7041.jpg.html)
http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad217/peaandham_bucket/IMG_7042.jpg (http://s937.photobucket.com/user/peaandham_bucket/media/IMG_7042.jpg.html)

Like MadMax said the teeth are for the ABS and traction control. Also (as I found out just in time before buying the wrong axle) the VRX and Sports model has one of the axles that is different to other models. Apparently they have more splines then other models (not sure why) on the end that sticks in the 5 speed auto gear box.