My brake pads are getting thin. I have never replaced brake pads/rotors before but plan to do so in the very near future.

Which of the following tools (or any other suggestions) would be best for pushing the brake pistons back in to fit the new pads? I'm not so much concerned with cost, but rather the best tool for the job.

My vehicle has ABS if that makes a difference...

Contestant A, B, C or D? :ninja:

A http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Draper-Expert-1-2-Inch-Square-Drive-Caliper-Piston-Retraction-Tool-/251384931204?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a87b5a384

B http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Disc-Brake-Pad-Spreader-Front-Caliper-Compressor-Tool-Piston-Holden-Ford-Toyota-/131133854546?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e882fd352

C http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Draper-ABS-Hand-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Wind-Back-Tool-/131139822446?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e888ae36e

D http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12pcs-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Auto-Wind-Back-Car-Piston-Kit-Tool-/141007955393?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d4baa5c1

Also what is the advantage (if any) of drilled and slotted rotors over standard?

And finally. Are any other specialist tools required for the job?

B will do.

All I use is a G Clamp and small block of wood, and go slow.

I use two screwdrivers, also slow. lol
Do it while the caliper is still mounted.

When I did mine I found that a standard G clamp did the job of pushing the piston back with ease. If having any difficulties you can always crack the bleeding nipple to release the pressure, but you'd need to bleed the brakes after doing this (the argument could be made that you should bleed your brakes after changing the pads anyway). If you're doing the pads and rotors it makes sense to change your fluid at the same time. Can't help re advantages of drilled/slotted, never used either, but presumably they keep things a bit cooler. No specialist tools needed, my old rotors came off fairly easily with a bit of encouragement from a rubber mallet, one bit of advice I followed was to wire-brush away any rust on the hub after removing the rotor as supposedly this can be enough to slightly warp the disc (cleaning it up just felt like the right thing to do anyway I guess). If you're planning to reco your callipers with new seals etc. then there's more to say, otherwise it's fairly straightforward. If you don't already have one get yourself (or borrow) a torque wrench for the calliper and wheel nuts, correct settings on these are critical to prevent disc warping apparently.

I use a screw driver or big pair of multi grips

have a special tool like b option, but as i could not find it at the time i used a g clamp and an an old brake pad

When I did mine I found that a standard G clamp did the job of pushing the piston back with ease. If having any difficulties you can always crack the bleeding nipple to release the pressure, but you'd need to bleed the brakes after doing this (the argument could be made that you should bleed your brakes after changing the pads anyway). If you're doing the pads and rotors it makes sense to change your fluid at the same time. Can't help re advantages of drilled/slotted, never used either, but presumably they keep things a bit cooler. No specialist tools needed, my old rotors came off fairly easily with a bit of encouragement from a rubber mallet, one bit of advice I followed was to wire-brush away any rust on the hub after removing the rotor as supposedly this can be enough to slightly warp the disc (cleaning it up just felt like the right thing to do anyway I guess). If you're planning to reco your callipers with new seals etc. then there's more to say, otherwise it's fairly straightforward. If you don't already have one get yourself (or borrow) a torque wrench for the calliper and wheel nuts, correct settings on these are critical to prevent disc warping apparently.

Ensoniq5,

If you follow Eric the Car Guy's method you wont need to bleed the brakes. It involves the use of a clamp, thin hose and small bottle. Demonstrated in the following video. The method I'm referring to starts at the 12 minute mark. He does tend to waffle a lot but I think the video is very informative and worth watching.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kf8C4Qxu-A

Also, thanks for the other info :cool:

Thanks everyone for the info.

I guess it's a matter of personal choice; everyone seems to have their own favourite method/tool.

I have heard many people like to use G-Clamps, but I don't currently own one. I'm leaning towards "B" as I like having tools for specific jobs.

'B' will be fine, it'll also be useful for the majority of other cars so if you end up owning something else it'll come in handy then.
As for cross drilled and slotted rotors, No point getting the ones with the holes, they dont give any braking benefit to anything less than a race car and at that level, the holes tend to be ground zero in the development of stress fractures.
The slotted rotors on the other hand, they definitely make a difference (pointless on the rear though)
The slots help to channel outgassing away from the pad surface and remove the cushion of gas between the hot pad and rotor.
There is an argument that the slots promote slightly faster pad surface wear, but i have never seen any hard evidence to prove it.
Worth noting though, the slotted rotors are only going to make a difference if you push your car a bit or do occasional track days.
If its just a sedate daily driver, you may as well go for standard rotors.

+1 for G-Clamp.

'B' will be fine, it'll also be useful for the majority of other cars so if you end up owning something else it'll come in handy then.
As for cross drilled and slotted rotors, No point getting the ones with the holes, they dont give any braking benefit to anything less than a race car and at that level, the holes tend to be ground zero in the development of stress fractures.
The slotted rotors on the other hand, they definitely make a difference (pointless on the rear though)
The slots help to channel outgassing away from the pad surface and remove the cushion of gas between the hot pad and rotor.
There is an argument that the slots promote slightly faster pad surface wear, but i have never seen any hard evidence to prove it.
Worth noting though, the slotted rotors are only going to make a difference if you push your car a bit or do occasional track days.
If its just a sedate daily driver, you may as well go for standard rotors.

Thanks for that Oldf4g

If I can pick up a pair of slotted rotors for a bargain I'll do it, but otherwise standard will probably be enough for me as I'm no race car driver.

The only thing about drilled and slotted rotors is that (to me at least) they are more esthetically pleasing to the eye. So for someone like me to buy them it would be more about vanity then practicality. :ninja:

Take the brake fluid tank cover off and use a syringe or similar to remove some brake fluid before compressing the calipers other wise it will overflow, also helps relieve the pressure. I use a G-clamp and a flat piece of timber.

Take the brake fluid tank cover off and use a syringe or similar to remove some brake fluid before compressing the calipers other wise it will overflow, also helps relieve the pressure. I use a G-clamp and a flat piece of timber.

RonRabbit99, the video I posted earlier shows the brake line being clamped (to stop fluid being forced back towards the master cylinder) and fluid being allowed to drain out the loosened bleed nipple into a small bottle. Essentially the same as you are advising. The advantage being there is no need to bleed the brakes afterwards. You only have to top up the fluid level and pump the foot peddle to reestablish pressure.

Thanks Mad - can't look at youtube at the moment - will look at it tonight - hopefully will save me some time next pad change.

Whichever method you choose, open the bleed nipple and dump the fluid. Do not re-use it either. Chances are that it has absorbed some moisture from the air and therefore lowered the boiling point of the fluid, causing you to have total brake failure under heavy braking.

I did a course with the Aust Federal Police some years back, and they used a standard VP commodore straight out of the transport pool. No modifications - totally standard. They taught us threshold braking and the stopping distances were astonishingly short. We got up to 80 km/h, then stopped hard. Then straight back to 80, then stop again. Then again. On the second stop, the brake pedal was spongy, on the third it went straight to the floor. That was with a near new Commodore, but they assired me that it was the same with all new cars of that era - 4 wheel discs and all. The last part of the course was a timed slalom, and after the third cone, the power steering had gone to lunch. By the fifth cone, the brakes had gone as well.

Not only does it lower the boiling point of the fluid, the presence of moisture in your brake fluid can induce corrosion in the wheel cylinder. Moral of the story - change your brake fluid at least every 2 years.

Whichever method you choose, open the bleed nipple and dump the fluid. Do not re-use it either. Chances are that it has absorbed some moisture from the air and therefore lowered the boiling point of the fluid, causing you to have total brake failure under heavy braking.

I did a course with the Aust Federal Police some years back, and they used a standard VP commodore straight out of the transport pool. No modifications - totally standard. They taught us threshold braking and the stopping distances were astonishingly short. We got up to 80 km/h, then stopped hard. Then straight back to 80, then stop again. Then again. On the second stop, the brake pedal was spongy, on the third it went straight to the floor. That was with a near new Commodore, but they assired me that it was the same with all new cars of that era - 4 wheel discs and all. The last part of the course was a timed slalom, and after the third cone, the power steering had gone to lunch. By the fifth cone, the brakes had gone as well.

Not only does it lower the boiling point of the fluid, the presence of moisture in your brake fluid can induce corrosion in the wheel cylinder. Moral of the story - change your brake fluid at least every 2 years.

Valuable info, thanks.

My brake pads are getting thin. I have never replaced brake pads/rotors before but plan to do so in the very near future.

Also what is the advantage (if any) of drilled and slotted rotors over standard?

And finally. Are any other specialist tools required for the job?

Just replaced my front rotors with drilled and slotted.
They are noisier than standard.(Sounds like dribbling water or a rapid ticking sound).
As I am driving over 3000ft mountains constantly, I can report that they DO absorb much more heat, (less fade) and DO pull you up quicker if you use the right pads. I can seriously outbrake a fly from 100km/h. So much so I have had multiple comments at the lights about my pads smoking after hard stops!

DBA Front Drilled and slotted Rotors DBA425D ($113 A PAIR from online performance autos)
I also got "Black Stuff" pads, but you can go whole hog and get "red stuff" racing pads. If you order from their website, rather than their ebay store, it is cheaper.
I am in no way associated or affiliated with the above store, and respect and treasure the businesses that are associated with this site.

Whichever method you choose, open the bleed nipple and dump the fluid.

I just back off the bleed nipple when pushing the piston in and do it up when the piston is fully in. (rag over the brake bleeder as it can squirt out). Stops dirty brake fluid from being forced back up the line. When the new pads are in I use the brake pedal to position them correctly, then use a syringe to fully empty out the reservoir and wash debris (rubber dust) off the bottom. Top up with fresh fluid, and open the bleeder valve to gravity feed fresh fluid down the line. When it runs clear I close off. New pads and a fluid change in the one job. Repeat when the other end of the car needs doing.

...Top up with fresh fluid, and open the bleeder valve to gravity feed fresh fluid down the line. When it runs clear I close off...
+1 on the gravity bleed, works like a charm.

+1 on the gravity bleed, works like a charm.

Gravity bleed is now on my list of jobs :woot:

Crimping the flexible brake line is not a good practice.
It leads to fractures in the rubber (moreso if its already several years old) and can cause the inner lining to crumble away and block the insides of the lines, calipers, ports ect.
Best off to either pull some fluid out of the resevoir or flush and bleed the brakes.

$9 G clamp worked just fine for me from the local multinational hardware store - because it is a shitty chinese screw type you can't turn it to fast so the fluid backs up nice and slow to the reservoir - make sure to take the cap off and have some rags ready if it overflows - bad for paint....