Just the past week or two I've noticed a new noise, which I can't quite work out. It doesn't sound serious, but is a little on the annoying side because I know it is there...

It could be described as a single metallic sounding "click", "slight knock", "tap". It can be just heard and felt through the steering wheel.

It does not happen in reverse or at higher speeds.

It happens 100% of the time if the vehicle is rolling forward at very low speed (foot off accelerator and brake) and the front wheels roll across the concrete join in my driveway.

Occasionally it happens driving down the road at low speed (20-30km/h) and driving over small bumps or lightly braking approaching a corner, but not larger bumps like speed humps.

Steering left or right does not cause it happen.


Steering related?

Strut Bearings?

Ball Joints?

Brakes?


I replaced my Sway Bar D Bushes and Links a few weeks ago, so I doubt they are responsible.

Probably unrelated, but I have noticed something groans for a second or two when I put the car into drive and even more so reverse after it has been sitting overnight.

I'm at a bit of a loss to explain it and thought someone else may have experienced the same issue and could enlighten me. :ninja:

Sticky brake pads = groan.
and
Knocking noise = loose pads.

Make sure you have the shims in place when you do the front pads.

Sticky brake pads = groan.
and
Knocking noise = loose pads.

Make sure you have the shims in place when you do the front pads.

My front brake pads definitely need replacing. They are on my list of jobs. I am toying with the idea of upgrading to 380 front brakes. If I am buying new pads and rotors, I may as well buy 380 calipers and lines and have the upgrade.

The putting the vehicle in reverse after sitting over night groan is probably sticky brakes pads like you say...

I was just doing some more diagnosing a few minutes ago and no longer think this noise is brake related.

I had my girl friend heavily stand on and off the driver's side scuff pad when I had my head under the car behind the driver's wheel. I was touching the sway bar and tie rod and a couple of other things and I could feel it.

I'm going back out now to jack the driver's side up and take off the wheel...

Deep breathes....count to 10....

I just took my driver's side wheel off and discovered that my rotor is not screwed on to the hub. Un:censored:believable!!! I feel like giving the idiot that owned the vehicle before me an upper cut. :angry:

Although I don't think it would be the cause of this noise...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IAMUdXIwiMY/UzuiWS8ehlI/AAAAAAAAA2U/VP24FWfdpFs/w1001-h751-no/2014-04-02+16.18.50.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--DofxL-Yb-I/UzuiYGqFimI/AAAAAAAAA2Q/HleWUT9JwwQ/w1001-h751-no/2014-04-02+16.18.58.jpg

Those screws are jacking screws to get the disc off the hub. Hence the blank behind the screw in the hub. The wheel nuts clamp the disc onto the hub.

Aren't those "screws" meant to be holes, into which you then put a bolt of the right size to remove the disc/rotor if it's rusted onto the hub?
In which case the one showing in the second pic has a snapped off bolt stuck in it, which just might be poking out the other side and causing the disc/rotor not to fit flush to the hub, at least not on that side. And that can't be a good thing.

Aren't those "screws" meant to be holes, into which you then put a bolt of the right size to remove the disc/rotor if it's rusted onto the hub?
In which case the one showing in the second pic has a snapped off bolt stuck in it, which just might be poking out the other side and causing the disc/rotor not to fit flush to the hub, at least not on that side. And that can't be a good thing.

I don't see a bolt in that hole, you can actually see the thread inside the hole. Just a trick of the light that makes it look like it's sticking out methinks.

Re OP, no screws are meant to go in those holes, wheel nuts hold the wheel and disc on.

Aren't those "screws" meant to be holes, into which you then put a bolt of the right size to remove the disc/rotor if it's rusted onto the hub?
In which case the one showing in the second pic has a snapped off bolt stuck in it, which just might be poking out the other side and causing the disc/rotor not to fit flush to the hub, at least not on that side. And that can't be a good thing.

Some rotors are just held on with wheel nuts but those screw holes are meant for attaching the rotor to the hub. The rotor isn't aligned correctly on the studs, which is why you can't see the holes in the hub where the screw go. If the rotor was placed on different studs you'd see the screw hole continue.

You need an impact or hammer screw driver to screw and unscrew those screws.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBSR6bEdm4g At the 5:45 minute mark

No there are not. If you have a look at the rotor you can see were the wheel sits against the rotor which crosses the thread meaning the wheel wont sit flush. Besides when you bolt the wheel on it holds the rotor in place.

Some rotors are just held on with wheel nuts but those screw holes are meant for attaching the rotor to the hub. The rotor isn't aligned correctly on the studs, which is why you can't see the holes in the hub where the screw go. If the rotor was placed on different studs you'd see the screw hole continue.

You need an impact or hammer screw driver to screw and unscrew those screws.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBSR6bEdm4g At the 5:45 minute mark

That car in the video is a Honda, the holes with the thread is to screw in a screw to dislodge the disc from the hub as some times they can be hard to separate.

Theses rotors are NOT held in by screws, those holes are the help push the disc from the hub incase it gets stuck.

An EB Falcon has the rotors secured by a screw, but these do not.

I don't see a bolt in that hole, you can actually see the thread inside the hole. Just a trick of the light that makes it look like it's sticking out methinks.

Re OP, no screws are meant to go in those holes, wheel nuts hold the wheel and disc on.


Yep, my bad, the aging eyes are playing tricks on me!

That car in the video is a Honda, the holes with the thread is to screw in a screw to dislodge the disc from the hub as some times they can be hard to separate.

Yes, the car in the video happens to be a Honda. I can probably find videos with cars of just about any brand you care to name showing the rotor being screwed onto the hub. Your point?

The screw holes are for attaching the rotor to the hub. Maybe they can be used to help remove the rotor but I'm sure that isn't their primary purpose.

A little anti-sieze between the rotor and hub will make it easier to remove.

Yes, the car in the video happens to be a Honda. I can probably find videos with cars of just about any brand you care to name showing the rotor being screwed onto the hub. Your point?

The screw holes are for attaching the rotor to the hub. Maybe they can be used to help remove the rotor but I'm sure that isn't their primary purpose.

A little anti-sieze between the rotor and hub will make it easier to remove.

I have just changed my rotors, THERE IS NO BOLTS HOLDING THEM TO THE HUB, a few people have told you that yet you don't believe anyone, if there was a bolt in that hole the wheel would not fit flush to the rotor. Remove your caliper and take the rotor off you will see there is not holes in the hub. How many times have you done this???

I have just changed my rotors, THERE IS NO BOLTS HOLDING THEM TO THE HUB, a few people have told you that yet you don't believe anyone, if there was a bolt in that hole the wheel would not fit flush to the rotor. Remove your caliper and take the rotor off you will see there is not holes in the hub. How many times have you done this???

Okay I'll take your word for it. Must be a Mitsubishi thing not to screw on the rotors.

Didn't mean to upset you.

If the holes were for bolting the rotor on they would be clearance holes for the bolts to go through, not threaded. Lots of cars use a similar setup, even if they do have bolts to hold them on the wheel studs still do most of the clamping. The bolts are more for assembley, esp when they don't use wheel studs and nuts and instead have big bolts.

If the holes were for bolting the rotor on they would be clearance holes for the bolts to go through, not threaded. Lots of cars use a similar setup, even if they do have bolts to hold them on the wheel studs still do most of the clamping. The bolts are more for assembley, esp when they don't use wheel studs and nuts and instead have big bolts.

I see your point; being that lugs nuts are clearly a lot stronger then two little screws. I agree.

It's just that I have watched numerous instructional videos recently, and they all had the rotors being screwed to the hub. Then to discover that my rotor was not screwed on was a bit of a shock. Compounding that was the fact my rotors were not seized to the hub with rust, but loose and ready to come straight off. It did not appear overly safe.

Okay I'll take your word for it. Must be a Mitsubishi thing not to screw on the rotors.

I've played around with disc brakes on lots of Mitsu cars, they have all had those threaded holes, none have had bolts in them, they were all for putting in bolts to convince the disc to let go from the hub if things have rusted together. Sometimes you need them, other times the disc slides right off.

Don't jump the gun, MmmKay? lol

As for "not safe", all 5 studs would need to snap and the wheel to come off before that disc moves. Plenty safe!

(If you want to work on the brakes, and not let the disc move, reverse two wheel nuts onto opposing studs to hold it in place. Common practise.)

I've played around with disc brakes on lots of Mitsu cars, they have all had those threaded holes, none have had bolts in them, they were all for putting in bolts to convince the disc to let go from the hub if things have rusted together. Sometimes you need them, other times the disc slides right off.

Don't jump the gun, MmmKay? lol

As for "not safe", all 5 studs would need to snap and the wheel to come off before that disc moves. Plenty safe!

I would think if anti-seize compound was used between the rotor and hub seizing with rust wouldn't be a big issue.

I see your point about the 5 studs snapping. It just felt weird because the hub was moving around a bit on the studs and (when the wheel was off) would have come right of if it wasn't for the caliper.

Also I ordered an impact screw driver on eBay in anticipation of changing out my rotors. It's not needed now. :cry:

Your rotors look fine to me. A bit rusty, but no signs that would say to me "replace me now!"

(Good quality closeup photos by the way.)

When you put new pads on, make sure the shims between the pads and caliper are reused, if new ones don't come with the pads. (Some makes give you new shims, others don't. )

If there are no shims, call the previous owner an a___hole and get some. Without them, the pads make all sorts of groaning/clicking noises. You should be able to see them with the wheel off. If they are missing, buy pads that include them, as they are not available separately, unless you want to visit a wrecker.

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac19/rons105/shims_zpsdd79ba63.jpg (http://s881.photobucket.com/user/rons105/media/shims_zpsdd79ba63.jpg.html)

Your rotors look fine to me. A bit rusty, but no signs that would say to me "replace me now!"

(Good quality closeup photos by the way.)

When you put new pads on, make sure the shims between the pads and caliper are reused, if new ones don't come with the pads. (Some makes give you new shims, others don't. )

If there are no shims, call the previous owner an a___hole and get some. Without them, the pads make all sorts of groaning/clicking noises. You should be able to see them with the wheel off. If they are missing, buy pads that include them, as they are not available separately, unless you want to visit a wrecker.

What are some brands that include shims?

Photos were taken with my Samsung Note II smartphone. I've had that thing shoved in all kinds of places in and around my vehicle. :ninja:

For the photo below, I stuck the phone between my spring coils to get a shot of my lack of bump stops. Can't do that with a regular camera. :woot:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jNpmB2-Ub28/UzvuU23rNUI/AAAAAAAAA20/PxIl1QRjuK4/w563-h751-no/2014-04-02+16.23.58.jpg

I've got RDA GP max on both ends of my TJ. Soft, dusty, but a good bite around town. Cheap. Came with rubber coated shims.

RDB1203SM

CORRECTION on post #20

Picture is for the second gen, shims on the third gen are the same, except the wear protectors (3 in pic) are not there, and the pad ends look different.

3rd gen pads & shims:

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac19/rons105/3rdgenpads_zps20a9098f.jpg (http://s881.photobucket.com/user/rons105/media/3rdgenpads_zps20a9098f.jpg.html)

I've got RDA GP max on both ends of my TJ. Soft, dusty, but a good bite around town. Cheap. Came with rubber coated shims.

RDB1203SM

Thanks, I'll check out the brand.

What are some brands that include shims?

Photos were taken with my Samsung Note II smartphone. I've had that thing shoved in all kinds of places in and around my vehicle. :ninja:

For the photo below, I stuck the phone between my spring coils to get a shot of my lack of bump stops. Can't do that with a regular camera. :woot:



https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jNpmB2-Ub28/UzvuU23rNUI/AAAAAAAAA20/PxIl1QRjuK4/w563-h751-no/2014-04-02+16.23.58.jpg

Looks like your also due for new bump stops!

Nah, the bump stop is still there. Just flattened somewhat. lol

Looks like your also due for new bump stops!

I've already bought them and a whole heap of other parts. Just got to find the time to install everything.

I've got both strut mounting kits (Monroe kits front and rear), with spring insulators, etc for front and back, bump stops (Monroe for front, Kyb for rear), the rear struts (Monroe GT), both front drive axles and a few other bits and pieces. I saw Monroe GT front struts on sale for $274 delivered but I missed it and they are now back up to $300....

I'm also waiting on another set of spring compressors. I have a good set but don't particularly feel safe when using them, so I have ordered the set below with safety pins.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301138334108?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I put the vehicle up on stands and crawled underneath for a look.

I have a suspect, although not 100% sure it is the culprit. It appears to be the sway bar D Bushes I installed the other week.

It appears the driver's side (and to a lesser extent the passenger side) Sway bar D Bushes have become skewed. What I mean (by skewed) is that where they split to go around the sway bar does not meet back together smoothly. There is probably a 2 or 3mm slide sideways happening.

I imagine this would make them less effective under load stress, possibly allowing metal to metal contact someplace, which is possibly the noise I am hearing...

These ones are SuperPro SPF 1801-22K Polyurethane. I should have stuck to rubber ones, but didn't know any better at the time.

I loosened the bolts and tried to correct the slide but it does it again when the bolts are tightened.

"It could be described as a single metallic sounding "click", "slight knock", "tap". It can be just heard and felt through the steering wheel.

What are your tyres like. Are they worn unevenly? This could cause feedback through to the steering wheel. If the tyres are worn unevenly it could be the toe-in all wrong, causing the shoulders of the tyre to be worn.

What wheels do you have? It could be a cracked wheel (most unlikely). If you have stel wheels, it could be something as simple as the hub cap not seated correctly.

"It could be described as a single metallic sounding "click", "slight knock", "tap". It can be just heard and felt through the steering wheel.

What are your tyres like. Are they worn unevenly? This could cause feedback through to the steering wheel. If the tyres are worn unevenly it could be the toe-in all wrong, causing the shoulders of the tyre to be worn.

What wheels do you have? It could be a cracked wheel (most unlikely). If you have stel wheels, it could be something as simple as the hub cap not seated correctly.

I have the standard 16" alloys that came on TJII Magna Sports and the tyres are in excellent condition. I don't think they are very old.

I have found out I can re-create the noise by standing on the driver's side skuff pad (with the door open) and bouncing up and down. When I do this on the passenger side there is no noise.

I think it has to be suspension related. Probably the D Bushes I mention in my last post. I'm going to have to order some standard rubber ones from Mitsubishi.

Are the bushes on the driver side too tight/too lose/wrong size/deformed/adequately greased?

If you can get your car up on some jacks/hoist, use a pry bar to check for individual movement wherever the bushes are located.

Unfortunately bouncing up and down, has only isolated the problem to that side of the car, not the actual component/cause.

Are the bushes on the driver side too tight/too lose/wrong size/deformed/adequately greased?

If you can get your car up on some jacks/hoist, use a pry bar to check for individual movement wherever the bushes are located.

Unfortunately bouncing up and down, has only isolated the problem to that side of the car, not the actual component/cause.

The D bushes appear to be the correct size (as in they hug the bar snuggly). They are 22mm

The outer dimensions may differ from OEM but I'm not sure as the only OEM bushes I've seen were old and worn. SuperPro has them down as being for my vehicle, then again they said the rear of my vehicle suppose to be 23mm and that isn't true. Hence I have a spare set of SuperPro 23mm bushes.

I was under the car today but didn't try using a pry bar. Maybe on my next days off. Wish I had a pit to drive over so the wheels could be on the ground. Then I could have someone doing the bouncing and be able to see what is making the noise.

EDIT: It just occurred to me. I have ramps, which should mimick a pit. I know what I'm doing tomorrow :woot:

I would think if anti-seize compound was used between the rotor and hub seizing with rust wouldn't be a big issue.


Thats helps but they still get stuck on after many years as the paste gets flung out and washed out when driving.

Thats helps but they still get stuck on after many years as the paste gets flung out and washed out when driving.

Yeah I can imagine that would happen.

I just put my car up on ramps, laid underneath with a torch, whilst someone bounced up and down standing in the open driver's door.

The clicking an noise is definitely coming from the driver's side sway bar link. I actually held it and could feel it clicking. They are brand new, I only replaced them a few weeks ago!!!! :(

I repeated the same process on the passenger side and it was silent, as in no clicking or noise.

Cheap eBay crap!!!! :angry:

Now to pull the wheel off, remove the link and try and work out what happened....

I just put my car up on ramps, laid underneath with a torch, whilst someone bounced up and down standing in the open driver's door.

The clicking an noise is definitely coming from the driver's side sway bar link. I actually held it and could feel it clicking. They are brand new, I only replaced them a few weeks ago!!!! :(

I repeated the same process on the passenger side and it was silent, as in no clicking or noise.

Cheap eBay crap!!!! :angry:

Now to pull the wheel off, remove the link and try and work out what happened....

Warranty time...

Warranty time...

Hardly worth the trouble of sending them back. I think they cost $45 delivered.

I took the driver's side one off and it did not appear or feel broken. I'm thinking maybe the nuts were not quite tight enough.

Anyway I've turned it around and put it back on with extra tight nuts to see if it makes a difference.

Still got the car up on axle stands as I'm contemplating swapping out both drive axles whilst it is off the ground. I have a 60cm breaker bar and a 32mm socket for axle nut, but am expecting a 32mm impact socket to arrive on Monday (which will make the job a bit easier).... So the question is relax and enjoy my weekend or go a head and swap out the axle's now. I'd have to put the car back down on tyres to break the axle nut free (using breaker bar) and I'm feeling a little lazy.... :ninja:

I'm also expecting a "safer" coil spring compressor set to arrive Monday as I wish to replace the front strut top bearing and spring insulator rubbers and rear struts and mounts. ...and both sets of bump stops...

Also ordered Bendix front brake pads, which should be here by Tuesday or Wednesday. I was going to upgrade to 380 front brakes but I've decided to put that on the back burner for now.

Youse is gonna be bizzy!

Don't bother dropping the wheels back onto the ground.
Put a heavy duty screwdriver through the caliper into the inside of the brake disc to lock it when you undo those lovely 32 mm nuts. Don't really need an impact socket, but if you are going to use an impact driver, you may as well.

Mitsu warns not to have weight on the front wheel bearings when having the axles out.

Use a torque wrench to do those nuts back up.

Youse is gonna be bizzy!

Don't bother dropping the wheels back onto the ground.
Put a heavy duty screwdriver through the caliper into the inside of the brake disc to lock it when you undo those lovely 32 mm nuts. Don't really need an impact socket, but if you are going to use an impact driver, you may as well.

Mitsu warns not to have weight on the front wheel bearings when having the axles out.

Use a torque wrench to do those nuts back up.

Thanks MadMax

I've also heard placing a long pry bar in the hub studs braced against the ground is another method some people use to stop the hub turning (to remove the axle nut).

Thanks MadMax

I've also heard placing a long pry bar in the hub studs braced against the ground is another method some people use to stop the hub turning (to remove the axle nut).

. . . which then slips and hits you in the knee, shin, or goolies, and you feel pain! No thanks! (Unless it is flat bar and you drill a couple of large holes in it and retain the whole thing with a couple of wheel nuts.)

. . . which then slips and hits you in the knee, shin, or goolies, and you feel pain! No thanks! (Unless it is flat bar and you drill a couple of large holes in it and retain the whole thing with a couple of wheel nuts.)

Yeah most probably.. :eek2:

I was bad and impatient. I used by impact driver with a regular 32mm socket. The socket survived and the axle nut is now free. :facejump:

Bad News is now it's freaking raining and I don't have shelter,...can't win them all :tired:

On the upside I have the next 7 days off work (apart from a day shift on Wednesday). So no hurry. :happy: